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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems



  • Nope the security light is not lit, so does this mean that the passlock has been bypassed? I will check the fuel filter and the fuel pump, thankyou for the suggestion.
    One other thing that has come to mind. I have recently changed keys, So the current key I am using is not the key I did the 10 minute relearn after I did the bypass with the resistor method, could this be the issue?
    thankyou once again.
  • The "SECURITY" light being OFF means that your non-starting problem is not due to the security system. Also, on these model cars, the key does not make a difference... The Passlock II system uses passive keys, without any embedded resistors or electronics, and anyway, the bypass circuit takes the ignition lock cylinder out of the loop. More simply stated, No, using a different key will not cause problems after doing the bypass.
  • Ok,
    I have replaced my fuel filter and had the fuel injectors cleaned out so now time will tell.
    One more question,
    today when i started the car i noticed when the lights on the dash light up the security light lights up with all the other ones. Does this mean anything? When the car was not starting the light never flashed on since the bypass.
    this has been very helpful I hope to be rid of this terrible inconvenience
  • I really hope someone can help me. We have done the by pass and car ran great for a while. It is now actin up again. Car just turns over, or will start for seconds and then die but eventually starts. Now it is stalling while driving - it happened 3 times last night usually when turning a corner. I would hear a buzzing, then the power locks would go crazy and then it would stall. Last time it happened it wouldn't start. We towed it home. Haven't tried to see if will start this morning. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • scm0300,
    According to your owner's manual, when you first turn the key on, you get a "bulb check" for a couple of seconds to insure that all your bulbs are working. This happens whether or not you have done the bypass, and is normal.
  • Problems of this sort are usually associated with wiring problems or severe corrosion. You will need a shop manual to diagnose the problem, and someone with automotive electrical experience.
    I suspect there is a faulty ground splice pack that is affecting the Body Control Module. Try measuring the voltage between the battery negative terminal and the wire that goes to pin A10 of connector C3 of the Body Control Module. If there is voltage at that point, there is a problem... it should read very near zero volts.
    Check for corrosion on the pins of the three connectors that go to the Body Control Module. Make certain that all the connectors of the BCM are seated properly and locked in place by the tabs. If you did the modification at the BCM, there is always the possibility that you did not get the center connector properly seated, and this would account for the door locks going wild, since their controls are on the same connector as the SECURITY wiring.
    Good Luck.
    Dick B
  • Where to start, a few months ago i was trying to start my 2001 v-6 grand-am, after a few times of trying it started to smoke from behind the steering wheel after noticing this i stopped an waited a few mins to see if it was going to keep going. (It didn't continue) Since this little mishap the car will crank but not turn over, i'm using a 810 cracking amp battery so i know its not that. There are times when i can And can not hear the fuel pump kick on. I have read all over the web about the passlock, but the security light is neither flashing nor does it stay on. I have cleaned the muti-function switch an regressed it, it helped for a short time an so did the higher amp battery but i'm wondering, before i dump any more money in to this car, would the passlock have anything to do with the fuel pump or is it just faulty ?
  • Not a passlock problem, but your message doesn't make sense. You say it will crank, but not turn over. What does that mean. Does the starter motor spin the engine, or does it just try, but can't overcome the compression? Does the engine spin, but not fire up?

    Only you can decide whether it is worthwhile to have the car fixed. If the body is in good shape with no visible rust, good tires, and good compression and smooth running (when it runs), and you have upscale accessories, then it is probably worth replacing whatever "smoked" in your steering column. Oh, and by the way, you normally sit behind the steering wheel. I'm assuming you meant that smoke came from the steering column, in front of the steering wheel.

  • kl4dkl4d Posts: 1
    Had a locksmith come out and do a bypass on the 96 Bonneville. Battery was dead from all the ten min and thirty min relearn tries. We took the battery out and had it charged. The car sound's like it is trying to engage, but it won't.
  • More info please....
    Is the security light still on? Solid or blinking?
    Do you have Fuel Pressure to your injectors?
    Does the engine ever fire, or does the starter motor just spin the engine, with no "kicks"?

    Dick B
  • I have been experiencing this same issue. It started about a month ago. At first it happened every few days. Fortunately it has only been happening every two weeks or so. I cannot believe that GM does not think there is an issue with this!! Most ridiculous thing I have ever heard! Hell they even anticipated it....ITS IN THE MANUAL!! After reading all the stories on here why would I even bother to take it to the dealer. I will never buy a GM vehicle ever again.
    This year alone I have spent more than $4000.00 on my car. Complete nightmare. Everything that goes on this car is always big!! Two days ago I tried to use my wiper fluid and nothing. Took it to a mechanic and was advised that they couldn't run a wire to another switch. The lever arm has to be replaced!! Cost of part $230.00 ---Labour 3hrs (cost $300). Another $500.00!!!! I give up!!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited December 2011
    Think your Grand Am is expensive to repair? Wait till you need a Toyota part.
    Key = $121.00
    Program the key = $48.00

    Oh, and by the way, you can run a wire from your wiper fluid pump to another switch. But due to federal regulations, DEALERS MAY NOT MODIFY THE WIRING HARNESS OF A VEHICLE.

    Your solution is to get a service manual, find the wire you need to splice into under the dash, and do your own re-wiring. Assuming you have a Grand Am, here are links to the Wiper/Washer Wiring Diagrams for a 2002 GrandAm...
    Grand Am Wiper-Washer-Diagram1
    Grand Am Wiper-Washer-Diagram2

    The wiring for the Washer Fluid Pump is at the left side of Diagram #1

    I hope this helps. Good luck.
  • I have read a lot of these forums and they have been very helpful, however.....2 years ago my car would not start and I had it towed. The place the car was towed to must have snipped the yellow wire (no cost). The car started every time with no problems even though the security light stayed on (I had no problem with that). I took my car to Advanced Auto for a major tune up only. I never told then to do anything with the security system, but they did and did not tell me until after the fact that the car would not start. They wanted to charge me an additional fee of $250.00 to try to get it started. No clue what they did, but after 2 days they got it running and I HAVE HAD SECURITY PASSLOCK ISSUES EVER SINCE. Took cat to another place and they replaced some module thing and repaired the remote start, and reconnected the yellow wire. At first they snipped the wire-car wouldnt start so they re-connected it. Ever since the issues with advanced auto, I have to do the re-set almost every day, sometimes 2 times a day. MY QUESTION IS---HOW LONG CAN I KEEP DOING THIS???? Please help.... and thank you
  • You have two alternatives.
    1. go to and perform one of the modifications listed on the menu there, or....
    2. Take Advanced Auto to court. Any repair facility known as "Advanced Auto" ought to know that if the security light is on solid, and the car starts, you cannot disconnect the battery. This is such a common problem that they should not have had any problems, but apparently they weren't smart enough to know that if the "security" light is on solid, disconnecting the battery will cause a "no-start" condition, and the only way to get it started again is to either perform the resistor bypass, reconnect the yellow wire and do the relearn procedure, or replace the Passlock Module and do the relearn procedure.
    Advanced Auto obviously knew that the car started OK when they drove it into their garage to do your complete tune-up. If it did not start after doing the tune-up, then obviously they did something to it that caused it not to start, and it is their responsibility to fix what they messed up. Take them to small claims court. At the very least, you should get back the money you paid them for the work they did not perform correctly. Here are your arguments.
    1. I drove the car to Advanced Auto to have it tuned up.
    2. They drove it into their shop to do the repairs. It was still running at that time.
    3. After they finished their tune-up, it did not run.
    4. Therefore, their tune-up caused it to quit running.

    Dick B.
  • Hello,
    I also have a 2001 Grand Am, and I work on mine like crazy. I had the exact same problem. Come to find out, it was the passlock system. It's an easy fix, no ripping the dash out, not going under the steering wheel. and no taking the radio out, or getting a new ignition. Go to this sight, and try the one under the glove compartment. I didn't use a solder gun with my fix, just good ol wrapping it tight, and electrical tape. Works find, no lights on dash. Good luck...
  • I own a 2003 pontiac grand am. Has the passlock problem ever occurred without the security light coming on? Here is a little history: Had radiator, radiator hoses, heater hoses, and fuel pressure regulator replaced yesterday. Radiator had leak in it and hoses were way overdue for replacement. Fuel pressure regulator was leaking and causing really strong gas odor in cab of car. My mechanic called me and said it was ready to pick up and running great! went to go pick it up and it fired right up and ran like a track star all the way home. This morning my wife calls me and tells me that the car won't will turn but not start. I cycled fuel to the rail by turning the key on and off, on and off..It seemed as tho i was getting fuel pressure (according to gauge hooked up to pressure relief valve on rail) I could get the rig started by spraying starting fluid in air intake, it would start and then want to die right away like fuel was being cut off, with throttle opened up it finally started and ran fine. I shut it off and went to the auto parts store and picked up another fuel pressure regulator valve thinking maybe the one i bought was defective (and come on! what are the odds of having something randomly go wrong with the fuel system right after it gets back from the mechanics? the only thing fuel related was the fuel pressure regulator) So i put the new one in and still no good. So i took that one out and put in the original one that leaked and still had trouble. So with the old leaky pressure regulator in i got it started with starter fluid and let it run for a while. Now it fires right up no problems...I'm pulling my damn hair out!!!! If any one can help me out here i would be so appreciative. I'm gonna let the car sit until morning and see if its temperature related.
  • must be temperature related. I just tried to start it and it turns but does not fire..
  • Yes, the passlock lockout can happen without turning on the "SECURITY" light coming on.... IF the light is burned out. When you cycle the ignition from off to on, does the SECURITY light come on during the 3 second lamp check? If so, the problem is not the passlock system.

    Dick B
  • Dick, Thank you for your speedy reply. Yes the security light does come on during lamp check. I believe it is temp related. Any idea what it could be? Maybe a vacuum leak that is not operating the pressure reg properly allowing the fuel to bypass back to tank instead of building enough pressure to start??..I'm no mechanic as you can probably tell. After speaking with my mechanic it doesn't sound good. He said he ran into the same problem a couple years ago with the same make, model and year as mine. He never did find out what was wrong with it, and neither did the local gm dealership. Is it possible that with the invasive process of a radiator swap that a ground came lose or a vacuum line cracked? At this point i'm very frustrated. My wife and i just dropped over 600 dollars and we have a rig that won't start. If anyone has run across this or has any ideas your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

  • I called a friend and who's pretty savvy mechanically to get his opinion and he thinks that fuel pressure is leaking by one of the o-rings on the fuel pressure regulator. It doesn't necessarily have to do with temp but more so that if you let it sit you are allowing enough time for the pressure on the rail to drop. I noticed the two o-rings on the fuel pressure regulator are very hard and a tight fit. Is it possible that these o-rings are rolling or not setting properly and allowing pressure to bleed off the rail?

  • Did you confirm that there are no codes stored? How about using a noid light to confirm the injectors are working? If the problem is temp related, then the coolant temp sensor would be faulty. Reading the datastream should confirm this. In the absence of a scan tool, unplugging the coolant sensor wires from the correct temp sensor will allow the car to start using limp-home mode.
    Usually, if you can start it with a shot of carb cleaner in the throttle body, it would be in the electrical part of the fuel injection system. You say it has pressure at the fuel rail. How much? enough? Faulty passlock usually allows it to start, then die quickly.
  • Car surgeon, There are no codes stored. Service engine light never came on. I suppose it would probably be worth it to have someone with a scan tool to go thru it and pinpoint the exact problem (datastream you refer to? not terribly sharp when it comes to terms) Here is a log of what was done today: Put new fuel pressure regulator back in (i'm getting good at it) pressure to fuel rail when key is turned on is 59 lbs..Haynes book calls for 52-59. When i start the car with start fluid it runs fine at 52 lbs. So i've ruled out fuel delivery issues thru fuel rail. Next my mechanic and i went to the fuel injectors. Used noid light and we have current to injector until i turn ignition to on position and then when i turn the engine still nothing, turn key back off and noid light comes on. My mechanic said when i'm turning the engine the noid light should pulse and its not. I took a look at the coolant temp sensor and its really dirty and grimed up from the old fuel pressure regulator leaking all over it. I disconnected it but it didn't make a difference in starting. We also tested spark plugs and those were firing fine. So here is what i THINK i know: its not pass because security light has never come on and i know the light works. I know fuel injectors are not firing and i know this is not an issue if the engine is warm. I know the coolant temp sensor has seen better days. I've been told that it might be one of the computers but i don't know which one..I am also curious to see if a bad ignition switch would do this seeing as alot of the wiring runs thru that..but then i think back to the temperature thing and i don't really know :confuse: . I am to the point where i don't want to throw parts at it because i'm strapped right now. I would like to find someone that has seen this before or is pretty sure so i can get it right the first time.. I know, wishful thinking right? :P Oh one more thing, the change oil light is on my mechanic said the other pontiac he worked on that had this problem had that light on too..Is there any oil sensor that would cut off fuel injectors if oil pressure/level was low? I know this post is all over the place, my head is just spinning from this thing and i am trying to give as much info as i can. Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you to those that have replied thus far.

  • just so everyone knows, it was a bad a/c compressor. the compressor and the injectors share the same fuse apparently and that fuse was blown. New a/c compressor and no more problems
  • acer04acer04 Posts: 2
    I'm a newbie to forums so apologize if I'm not following protocol.
    My 2004 Grand Am failed to start so I followed the 10 minute re-learn.
    It then started but the security light stayed lit. It has been this way for
    several months (starting fine with security light on). I performed the soldering
    version of today hoping to make the security light go off.
    I attempted the 10 minute re-learn procedure twice. I attempted the 30
    minute re-learn procedure but the car started so I aborted the attempt.
    The car still starts fine but the security light remains lit. I didn't find anything
    that matches my exact scenario. Any ideas? Thanks a lot.
  • When your "Security" light remains on solid (not flashing), it indicates that something is wrong with the anti-theft system, usually either an open or a short in the wiring or in the passlock module attached to the lock cylinder.

    Do the following.
    1. Make certain that you did the bypass procedure correctly. If you did, then you should have connected a resistor of 1500 ohms to 3300 ohms between circuit #1835 (black wire) and circuit #1836 (yellow wire).
    2. Remove the kick panel from beneath the dash on the passenger side. It is held in place by two fasteners, one just below and to the left of the left corner of the glove box, and the other, a plastic push-fastener near the right upper corner of the panel. Once this panel is removed you will have access to the Body Control Module. Disconnect the center connector from the BCM, and measure the resistance between pins A6 and B6 of the wiring harness connector. The resistance should be approximately the same as the resistor you connected into the circuit. If it is not, there are three possible problems.
    A: you connected the resistor to the wrong ends of the wires or the wrong wires.
    B. There is a broken wire in your wiring harness. (the ohmmeter reads an open circuit)
    C. There is a short in your wiring. (the ohmmeter reads near zero ohms.)
    Below are wiring diagrams of the BCM and a diagram of connector C2 of the BCM. Right click on the pictures to get an enlarged view.

    Passlock wiring diagram

    Connector C2 wiring diagarm

    Several things can happen when attempting to perform this modification.
    * one end of the resistor gets connected to the wrong black wire.
    * the resistor gets connected to the wrong ends of the black and yellow wires. It must be connected in such a way as to be connected to the BCM, not the ignition switch.
    * The chosen resistor is the wrong size. I always use a 2200 ohm resistor, whose color code is three red bands. Those without much electronic experience often use a 2.2 ohm resistor. (color code- red, red, black)
    * when doing the modification at the BCM, the technician reads the pins of the connector from the wrong end, causing them to choose pins B7 and A7 instead of A6 and B6.

    Good luck with your troubleshooting.

    Dick B
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited January 2012
    In post 1098, I forgot to mention that you should check to make sure the center connector on the BCM is properly seated in it's socket. When you did the modification, and did not get proper results, you would have had to disconnect it to check for corrosion on the pins.

    Also, you stated that you did the solder method mod. There are two methods on my website that use the solder method. Which of the two? the one for the Pontiac (at the BCM) or the one for the Alero (through the radio cavity)?

    Dick B
  • acer04acer04 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your very detailed response. My daughter is taking the car back to
    school so I will pursue this over Spring Break.

  • I performed the Resistor bypass option for the Passlock feature. My security light went out, but now the car does not start until I almost drain my battery. The last 5 times I tried to start when the starter started to drag due to a low battery, I turned the key back off and then on the next atempt or two the starter would start to engage and then the car would start. The car was cranking just fine in the other attempts, (acting just like the passlock issue) but would not start any suggestions?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited January 2012
    If you have done the Bypass, you have eliminated one of your possible problems. Hard starting can be caused by:
    1. Fouled plugs. Replace your spark plugs.
    2. Clogged fuel filter. Replace your fuel filter
    3. Incorrect timing. Make sure your timing chain has not broken
    4. Low fuel pressure.
    5. Low compression. (usually caused by not changing oil regularly)

    Dick B.
  • I have a 04 Pontiac grand am. The car will not crank. Battery is full and starter can be jumped. When I jump the starter, the car runs for 2 seconds and dies. The security light is on solid and will not go out after the 10 min wait period with the key in the acc position. Is this a passlock issue or an ignition issue. I don't want to replace the bcm only to find out that the ignition cylinder is the reason for the no crank. Fuel pump cycles and as stated above that car runs for 2 seconds each time I jump the starter solenoid. I have tried to put a resistor in to bypass the passlock. Do I need a new ignition cylinder? Thanks for all your help.
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