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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems



  • I have read and read these messages and I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires.......
    Has anyone filed a complaint with GM?

    First, the answer to the second question....
    By law, no automobile company in the United States may advise their customers on modifications that will bypass any of the electronic devices. This is covered in the emissions standards manuals put out by the Environmental Protection Agency. It's unfortunate that our government makes the laws so broad that it covers items that have absolutely no effect on automotive emissions, but that's the way it is. That said, be thankful that you don't have one of those Toyotas that have those $240.00 keys with the remote keyless entry embedded in them, or even worse, an Audi. Lose one of your keys, $240 for the key, $125 to have it programmed.
    Also, It wouldn't do any good to file a Class Action against the company. It doesn't exist any more. (the company), remember.... they went bankrupt.

    On to the first question...
    I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires.

    I don't believe you give yourself as much credit as you should. You don't have to be a "man" to find and cut wires in your car. Here is my suggestion. Go to the following web address:
    Print out the instructions for bypassing the Passlock Module. Then take them to any Radio Shack store, and ask one of the clerks to sell you all the parts and tools you need to do the job. he will sell you a small pair of needle nosed pliers, a small screwdriver, maybe a cheap pair of wire cutters/strippers, a set of metric sockets or wrenches, a terminal block, and a package of resistors. Depending on whether or not he's honest, you will pay $18 to $30. When you are finished, you will be able to shove the pliers into a kitchen drawer, and use them the next time you need to fix a piece of jewelry, or a zipper on some of your luggage. the only other tool you will need is a table knife to pry the bezel off of your radio.
    Once you have the tools, and you have read the instructions, if you still don't think you can do the job, ask the Radio Shack clerk if he knows anyone who would be willing to help. If he doesn't know anyone, go to a local computer repair store, show him the instructions, and ask if He/She knows anyone who can help.
    Even if you can't find help, try it yourself. You will be surprised at how easy it is, once you get started. The instructions are step-by-step, and the photos on the instructions are detailed enough that it's hard to screw up. Some of the photos can be enlarged by right clicking on them and choosing "View Image". As long as you follow the instructions, and cut only the correct two wires. you can't hurt anything.... trust me.
    If you don't want to invest any money before you start, just read the instructions, and remove the radio. Then put it back. Once you have done that much, you will have gained confidence to continue.
    Come on girl, don't wimp out. You can do it, even if your local independent mechanic is too much of a fraidy-cat to try it.

    Dick Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
    G M Proving Grounds
    Milford, MI
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited October 2012
    I can understand your frustration related to this matter, but I don't think you should take it out on the GM customer service rep. She is, after all suggesting a solution that will eventually get your car running. Admittedly, it will probably cost more than doing the work yourself, but let's be fair,... mechanics and dealerships need to be able to make a living too. $100/hour billing rate is not that much when you consider the advanced technical knowledge required to repair today's cars, and the expense of the equipment involved. Just be glad you don't have to pay them the same salary as you pay your favorite baseball player. (and remember, that baseball player isn't guaranteeing he will hit a home run every time at bat.)
  • I have a 2001 grand am se. A few years ago I started having problems with the security light coming on and the car not starting. The 10 min procedure always did the trick. Later down the road other weird things started happening like the headlights shutting off and a dinging noise when the door was open. the other day I went to start the car and it started but then shut off immediately (tried it several times). I left the key on for the ten mintues and it didnt work. Had the car towed, wasnt the fuel pump or ignition. The mechanic said it was the "computer" which im assuming is the BCM?? So he replaced it. Drove it a couple places then all the lights came on..service engine, low coolant, abs, security. Headlights wouldnt shut off and had no power windows and trunk wouldnt open. And most importantly the radio said locked and the tiny anti theft light was on...which it never did that before. Couldnt get the lights to shut off so the battery went dead. I really need to find out what the real problem is so i dont waste anymore money. Please help!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited December 2012
    To replace the BCM you would have had to take the car to a dealer who has a Tech II Scan tool and Terminal. He would have had to program the BCM to recoginze all the electronics on the body of the vehicle.
    Your original symptom sounds like the typical passlock problem, but with a complete failure of the passlock module, in which case the dealer usually tries replacing the passlock module. I'm assuming that the "SECURITY" light came on as usual before you tried the 10 minute relearn procedure.
    From what you describe, I think the replacement BCM is either defective, or was not programmed. All of your new symptoms indicate a bad BCM, because all those components are controlled by the BCM. Also, the "Locked" condition of the radio indicates that the new BCM was not programmed to accept the correct password from the Radio on the data buss.
    My advise is to take the car back to the dealer for further repair. Their work should be covered under their warranty policy. You might track down the original mechanic and see if they checked the passlock module before replacing the BCM.
    R Berger
  • My daughters car was having problems. It started with them draining the battery, and then needing to replace the battery. Then my son in law could only get the car to start using starter fluid. It would then run and start for the next few hours, and then if left to sit wouldn't start again. Eventually they brought it home for me to look at. Before I found the information about the Passlock we changed out the fuel pressure regulator to no avail. Then a carlot owner friend checked with a mechanic and he said that we needed to change the ignition switch. It was a bad security sensor. That is when I went on line and found the plethora of information about how to bypass the passlock sensor. The car lot friend was able to use the 10minute reset to get the car to run, and it ran great for the next 3-4 weeks. Finally it stopped starting again. So I decided to do the by-pass. I followed the Bergerwebsite instructions to the T so i thought, but it still wouldn't start even after running the 10 and 30 minute resets. I checked the BCM, and there was mild corrosion, but after i cleaned it up it still didn't start. All along I could force a start with starter fluid or gas and it would start for the next few hours. The security lights do not stay on since i did the bypass, but I still can not get the car to reset so it will start normally. Any help would be great.
  • Since your car will start when using starter fluid (assuming you are putting the fluid into the intake), your problem probably stems from either:
    * a clogged fuel filter
    * a weak or malfunctioning fuel pump.
    Try replacing the fuel filter first... it's the cheapest.
  • Yes, i was putting the starter fluid into the intake when I was able to get it to start. Thank you for the advice on the fuel filter and the Fuel pump. I have checked the port for pressure on the fuel rail, and there is pressure there, and when I turn the ignition and the fuel pump turns on fuel sprays out at a very high rate. Unfortunately the fuel pump only remains on for a couple of seconds at best and then turns off. I have read other places on this forum that point back to the passlock security causing this problem, but have been unable to reset the vehicle since i performed the by-pass.
  • I have a 2003 Alero and have suffered for the last year with the same problem, having to be towed twice. I tried the resistor bypass and got the light to go off but it would still not start. I found an electronic guy to fix it for $100, he said the BCM was bad and the key cylinder was also. So he put in a used BCM and "repaired" the ignition switch along with running a wire from the fuel injector relay to an unknown place. This worked for one day. So long story short I called the used car guy I bought it from and he had the ignition switch replaced with a brand new one from a Chevy along with new keys. You can tell that the key /switch is alot tighter than the old one. I have now had the car back for 2 weeks and it starts right away. With the old key/switch you could pull the key out even in the start or run position! Oh, I owe him $400 now but alot cheaper than getting another car.
  • ive owned the car for 2 yrs now. never had a single problem except for the usual maintance oil change ect. 3 days ago driving down the road the car just died. i tried to start it repeditly and gave up finaly it would start for about 5 secs and shut off so i had a friend tow me to a shop. next day the car was looked at with no problem found so i went and picked it up. we got about 5 miles down the road and it died again but this time i was on an interstate and almost struck by a semi pulling of the road so i called our macanic and he came to where we were at, first thing he checked was the rail for fuel that was fine ,the car would turn over start and run for about 5 secs. so we had it towed back to the shop they had it a couple days and said it was fixed so we went to pick it up when we got their he said he couldnt really find anything wrong with it except that he had changed a couple fuses, one for the lighter, and one for the cooling system witch he said would probly go out again he also said that if we did the reset wait for 10 mins or so we would never get stuck again but that it was probly going to die again on the road somewhere and that it probly needed a new fuel filter and a fuel pump which is 767.00 so we paid them the 35.00 we owed them and left to drop off the car we had loaned to us from some from friends of ours,we dropped it off and headed home we got about a mile or so from the home and it died again but by this time it was dark and i remarked to my wife that we couldt do the 10 min wait because the battery would go dead from the head lights as i had remarked to her at the shop before we left if it had gotten dark which it had.but we tried it any ways and the sensor light didnt even come on blinking at all that was to go to solid after 10 min or so , so we walk the mile or so home and i went back alittle while later and towed it home with my friend again and now it sets its the only car we have so were really stranded at home except we have to take dial a ride to work till this gets fixed and any where elese we go i should also add the sensor light has always been on including the check engine light i understand the bypass by cutting the yellow wire and checking the corrosion what would someone elese do
  • I was at my wits end with my sons 2003 alero which is basically like your grand am.This all started like yours with the car dying on me. After it died the 3rd time nothing would re-start it. It spent at least a month parked in various places miles from home. I spent many hours trying the DIY thing to no avail. It could be the ignition switch in combination with the bcm which is a plastic box under the glovebox that has 3 connectors attached. Here's what I would do. Get a new ignition switch and find someone who could install it cheap. They put a Chevy switch on mine ,maybe a better switch than the oldsmobile type. You can tell the key is alot tighter in the switch than the old one. Hang in there, it's crazy that this happens as much as cars cost.
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    followed the instructions on and my security light will not go out at all period regardless of what I do.

    pulled negative battery cable first:
    removed radio
    cut wires

    use 2200 resistors and mini terminal block as show in the pic there

    cut yellow and black wires and made sure insulation was not inside block.
    installed resistor as shown. I pulled the radio for access to the two wires.

    the car starts and stalls. with the switch left to on the security light flashes. If I turn the switch off and back on the security light stays solid.

    car will not relearn regardless of procedure learned. 10 min or 30 min makes no diff at all the light will not go out.

    car was running fine when i pulled it into garage.

    I read a post that suggested the bcm could be bad.

    will a car dealer work on a car with the security bypassed?
    it will be hard to get to the wire coming out of the ignition. Might have to pull that.

    basically I tried the bypass and my light won't go out at all period.

    all help appreciated
  • I would guess that the problem you have is that one of the two wires (black or yellow) is either broken between the radio area and the Body Control Module, or has become shorted to another wire in the bundle. This is not an easy thing to troubleshoot, but a first step is to disconnect the center connector of the Body Control Module, and using an Ohmmeter, check the resistance between pins A6 and B6 of the wiring harness connector. It should read 2200 ohms (or whatever resistance you used), +/- 10%. If it doesn't, you might want to try placing the resistor into the circuit right at the center connector of the BCM, thus eliminating any shorts or opens that are present in the wiring. Once that's done, try the reset again... Generally, the light on solid indicates a short, or an open in the circuitry, rather than a faulty passlock module.

    R Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
    GM Proving Ground
    Milford, MI
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    the ohm reading set at 20k on multimeter is: 21.7
    the ohm reading set st 200k ..................... 22

    settings taken at center plug wire harness of bcm

  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    the car was running fine and having no troubles when I decided to bypass future problelms. Oh, on the 2001 grand am there is one screw that is recessed and hard to find that has to be taken out also.

    I was pretty sure the wiring job was done right. You cut and strip a piece of wire and stick it in the terminal block. Not too complicated. But now I am sure since I checked with a multimeter in the center connector of the wiring harness.

    Hope there is an answer to why my security light stays on.
    like I said before:
    @ if you leave the key in the "on" position it blinks.......but won't reset ......ever
    @ if you turn it off and back on then it is solid and will not reset.................ever

  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited December 2012
    Your resistance reading is 10 times what it should be. Check the color codes on your resistor body. The correct resistor should have three red bands. From the readings you are getting, I think you have a resistor color code of red, red, orange.
    Here is a handy reference for reading resistor color codes...

    PS... Are you referring to an additional screw to dismount the radio, or to get to the BCM?
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    sorry for not being was the bcm that had a hidden screw. actually you could see a metal plate with a screw in open site in the glove box area that had to be removed. Then there was more recessed down and to the left that had to come out also. Four screws total. The bcm actually came out when I was trying to unplug the center connector. No corrosion found.

    I bought another package the other day and: it says 22 kohm. I thought it said 2.2 kohm. And I thought i was being careful not to get 2.2mohmn heheheh.

    I am thinking/hoping you have solved my problem.
    @ Will revisit radio shack and get the right one. My problem is I am color blind inside but I can see most colors outside ok.

    This is a relief for me
    Now it totally makes sense why this isn't working.

    thanks for your help
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    The car is now running.
    I am so thankful for :
    @ The Internet
    @ Your great website
    @ The forum.
    @ Your posting replies even on the holidays.

  • cant find the bcm anywhere on 2002 grand am, found something like it on left side of car kinda above the hood latch but it only has 2 plug ins not 3. i should also add my security light comes on and blinks when opening and closing door, car starts and runs fine scared to drive it because ive had to tow it several times once with a tow truck and twice with a friend and tow rope. before the light was on solid all the time now only comes on when door is open and blinks. want to check to if corrison has anything to with it on the bcm but cant seem to find the unit. in all reality im kinda lost in this situation so i thought i would just put in a resiter,anyone know where the bcm is at on a 2002 pontiac GT
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    click on home page
    Click on left side where it says no solder method and be careful you get the right resistor. 2.2 kohm and not 22 kohm like I did hehehe.

    best info you can get and it shows the bcm under the glove box.

  • ive been there but my bcm is dirrerent ,it on the left side of the car and it doesnt hav the 3 wire plug ins only 2 and i dont hav the 3 wires going along side radio compartment
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    removed center plug on bcm and the grey wire came loose. The wire that comes attached to the bcm . What does that wire do and how is it attached. I remember seeing some tape over the wire but didn't pay enough attention.

    can you drive the car with it loose?

  • The BCM is mounted just below the glove box behind a dashboard lower panel that can be removed. One screw and a push fastener hold the panel in place. Go to... Scroll down near the end of the page to see how to get to the BCM.

    Dick B
  • Orogle,
    Thanks to your own perserverence, you were able to help solve your situation by posting back with your observations. I winder how many people give up she they don't succeed the first time. Posting back your ohmmeter readings was the key. Glad you we we successful.
    Dick B
  • Gee, judging by the number of typos in the above message, I better refrain from trying to post messages from my tablet. I hate these tiny keyboards!!!!!
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    Heheheh I thought maybe it was because of a little "celebrating" of sorts.

    oh, just in case you didn't see it: can you tell me what the wire does that is connected to the bcm. I called a chevy dealer and a buick dealer and asked the service dept but neither of them had a clue.

    I noticed that it was attached to the well wall and held by some tape that was coming undone but didn't pay enough attention and certainly didn't see it actually plugged into anything. There isn't anything to unscrew to remove it.

    looked at a new gm part on ebay and it was the same single wire coming out of the bcm. Searched the internet for hours trying to find out what that wire did. No reference to it at all. Kinda reminds me of the wire hanging down on my electric door opener. Each one I have had has a wire but it is never attached to anything.

    Does that wire have a purpose? Heheheh must be good for something.

  • Beat's me what that wire is for. It's not shown on my 2002 Grand Am BCM wiring diagrams. I never noticed it when I removed my BCM. I'm assuming it's not connected to one of the three connectors???
  • orogleorogle Posts: 10
    no one seems to know. Here is a pic of it on ebay. 3.l2649

    @ small wire with a flat piece of plastic on the end of it. Doesn't look like it would snap into anything its smooth. No clip to hold it. And yet it is attached to the bcm so there must be a reason. Guess I will forgetaboutit hhehhe.

    I have another problem which probably should be in a new post but:
    Last week I went to start the car and there was darkness in the garage, the dome light wasn't on, turning the key produced no dash lights and the car wouldn't start.
    put on the multimeter to test voltage on the battery and it was fully charged.
    got out of car went into house
    went back to garage, the door was locked so unlocked door and when I opened it the dome light was on, the dash lights lit when turned the key and it started.

    @ went to the store a few days later and left the car unlocked
    and when I tried to start the car once again no power.
    @ Got out of the car and locked and unlocked the door with the key because I had no idea of what to do and no power still.
    @ Turned the headlight switch and had headlights and then dash lights and it started. I was surprised when the headlights came on.
    @ no security light flashing either time, just no power.

  • would anyone know where the passlock wire is on the ignition of a 2002 grand prix, the 2002 3.8 is different from all the other models ive looked through
  • id like to by pass the passlock but cant locate the wires i hav the whole dash apart and steering colum so i should be able to find it, i hav a white and black striped wire and solid black on one little clip and another with a light green and peach with other various other bundles anyone that has the same please help
  • Hi. Hope some one can help me out.

    I have a 2003 pontiac grand am. Car start a day before but now it just turn and won't start. I did the 10 min thing and the learning procedure but still no luck.
    My car security light is lid and stay lid when the key is turn to the ON position. After 10-15 minute in the "ON" position, the security light remains lid. shouldn't it turned off?
    I also try the learning procedure.... Turn the key on...then turn to crank the ignition..won't start. The security light goes off when its back to the "ON " position. Should the light stay lid?
    Just a note ...My security light does not flashes. Any suggestions?
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