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My god, I never knew, wish I read this first before buying the car. Ok, here's my issue but I have a gps tracker also in mine til car is paid off , then box removed. Would this also cause my passlock to kick in & the car not to start. Mines only happen 6 mths ago & then just this Friday headlights & dashboard lights came on....But, wouldnt start up....Had towed to mechanic, Cant said what he did,...(sorry) but he said when he got in car didnt start & then he did his thing & the car started right up.....I was so pissed cause I lost work cause of this & not only that my payment is current, so why disarming the vehicle. Mechanic did a service check, couldnt find anything wrong. He boiled it down to that black box disarmed vehicle. Called dealer & asked why my vehicle was disarmed for no apparent reason. We dont know anything about that, we dont disarm vehicle...Really, well explain too me why I have a little blinking black box under my dashboard & since you dont know anything about it, then Im having it removed......long pause, thought he hung up. Ms, that's for security purposes. Oh so now all of a sudden you know what Im talking about. I inform them if my vehicle is ever disarm for no apparent reason again, we will be heading to small claims court. And, Im pretty sure I will win, once judge ask same thing why are you disarming vehicle, never a late payment. I regret I even have to deal with them for 2 more months.....
P.S....And now that Im reading about this Passlock Security thats built in....I spoken with Mickey Shorr about this & this will be corrected also. But, they wont touch vehicle until box has been removed....
Chevy Impala starts and runs with security light on solid. Hopefully the following info can help others, as it seems to be common across many GM models.
My security light issue on my 2005 Impala has finally been beaten into submission. After many hours of research on multiple blogs and about $200 in parts the issues have been resolved. My car has the passlock system with the sensor in the key cylinder, not in the key.
Chevy Impala starts and runs security light on solid
My problem started as a no-start/10 minute wait issue at the most inconvenient times. The key could actually be removed from the cylinder while driving the car (and my car isn't on the list of recalls). After replacing the key cylinder/passlock chip, it became a "security light on" issue with the car starting every time (which is fail-enable mode).
I started by replacing the key cylinder/sensor since it was mechanically defective. The car would then start up every time, but the security light would stay on solid. I then bought the ignition switch unit that the cylinder goes into, no change in the symptom. The switch I bought came with another key cylinder/sensor (at a very good price on Amazon). Now I have 3 key cylinder's/sensors - which turned out to be helpful in the end.
So much for parts swapping, I didn't want to replace the BCM and make a trip to the dealership to program it. After researching on this list and several others, I found wiring diagrams and expected voltages on each of the 3 sensor wires at each switch position. I purchased a good set of wire piercing probes off of Amazon also. I also took a 3 pin connector out of an old pc, which allowed me to connect directly to the sensor and eliminate the "blind" connection in the housing. Armed with tools and knowledge, I took the dash apart again (I can do it in 10 minutes now).
With my volt meter, I found the following:
1. 12.3 volts on the white wire, switch in the on position.
2. The black wire was properly grounded.
3. The yellow wire showed 1.27 volts, too low for the on position, should be near 5 volts.
4. With the switch in the start position, I got the same voltages. The yellow wire should drop when you go to start as the resistor will be in effect.
5. Full continuity from all 3 sensor wires to the BCM connection.
6. Pulled the BCM out (difficult), everything inside in excellent condition.
7. No shorts detected.
I then swapped out the key cylinder/sensor with my other new one, and I saw 4.7 volts on the yellow wire in the on position, and 2.2 volts when I turned to the start position. This looked good, but the security light stayed on. On a whim, I put the old, mechanically defective key cylinder back in and the security light went out! This told me several things:
1. The system is stuck in fail-enable mode and is happy with the resistance on the old sensor.
2. One of my 2 new key cylinders/sensors is bad.
3. The old switch and the BCM are probably good.
I was not able to initiate the relearn by having the battery disconnected for several hours. I tried removing the fuel pump and starter fuses as recommended to keep it from starting during the relearn attempt, did not work. The security light needs to be flashing(able to relearn), not on steady(fail-enable). A Tech II scanner would be able to force it, but I was determined to avoid the dealership.
Quite accidentally, I made it go into relearn mode. For every part swap/wire disconnect/reconnect I would disconnect the battery. The last time I pushed the key cylinder back in (the good one) I forgot to disconnect the battery. The system must have detected a tamper condition and the security light started flashing. A 30 minute relearn process later and the security light goes off. No issues through the whole weekend so far.
I could have done the resistor bypass method and avoided all the testing as mentioned by many, but I would have needed to match the resistance exactly since I could not get it to relearn.
I've learned way more than I ever needed to on this system. It's amazing, all the work-arounds and bypasses and hacks that are available. Even the possibility of disabling the whole system with a Tech II or one of the tuners out there looked like an interesting possibility. GM should offer that as a fix, but that would be admitting to a faulty product.
Thanks to all for the valuable info, especially the Bergerweb.net website and ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/passlock-fixes.
I had the same problem. I'd go to start my car, it would crank but wouldn't stay on. I'd have it towed, and then magically it would start again. The mechanics looked at my like I was crazy!! This happened very randomly over six months. Finally after the last time, it still wouldn't start after being towed and I was told the key ignition was throwing the car into security mode. they replaced the key cylinder and reprogrammed the computer. Thus far I haven't had any problems. I never had a security light come on, it just wouldn't start. Hopefully the problem is actually fixed but I always expect to be stranded after that ordeal.
try to take key to right side front door, turn the key from left to right fully 3 times and wait 3 minutes i have 1999 grand am and had these problems
Mine is a 2001 grand am gt 3.4L and now has been sitting for months due to this security crap I have owned it since day one bought her with only 1 and half miles on it!! It has been my baby and I have kept reg maintenance on it and I have never had any issues with it and I love her and hate to rid it but I am a single mom and can not afford for this to happen all the time! I have tried the relearn nothing starts 2 secs then dies I can hear the fuel pump kick on so I know that is not the issue!! It ran fine then arked it woke up and trunk was popping things dinging ect I couldn't find the tool to disconnect battery and it eventually died!! So I did research and tried everything and still have gotten nowhere with it and it is still sitting in driveway!! I pulled out the pugs n BCM and didn't see no corrode anywhere checked every fuse I could find all fine! I am so stressed out with this called the dealer and they want crap ton of money to fix any help please I am about to lose it or go crunch it at junk yard!!!!!!
If your Pontiac Grand Am or Chevy Malibu has ever had ignition problems, a reporter would like to hear from you. Please email PR@edmunds.com by Tuesday, July 15, 2014 to share your story.
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I paid for a new ignition switch for my 2001 Pontiac Grand AM ($1000) that was suppose to include programming. I got my car back and it will not start. Two months ago I took it back to them and they keep saying it's a programming thing and that I have to pay more $$$. I told them the damn car isn't worth it! I am getting hosed here aren't I.
I am getting hosed here aren't I.
I would have to say yes. It shouldn't cost that much for a new ignition switch. What was the original problem?
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