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Chevrolet Impala General Care & Maintenance



  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    The gauge clusters are known to go bad after a while. You'll need a new one. The gauge cluster is a computer in and of itself, and a failure in it can cause other malfunctions elsewhere in the car.

    If your fans are still running after the car is shut off, have your thermostat changed. This usually corrects the problem. Also, check the ground wire under the hood on the left side, above the headlight. Make sure it's a secure connection.

    The traction control problem is most likely a broken or corroded connection in the ABS "wires" leading to the front hubs. Many have had the hubs replaced, only to have the problem return. The wires the car came with are too thin, and their connections break easily over time. Dealers charge around $250 to replace the wires. You can buy the wires and do the job yourself for a lot cheaper. The part numbers are:

    Right Side: 10340313
    Left Side: 10340314

    Instructions are included with the wires.
  • '05 should be under warrenty.
  • jjp3jjp3 Posts: 1
    My 2002 3.4 liter 6 cycl. automatic Impala with 45,000 miles has a green liquid leak. It has occurred 3-4 times. the leak is on the drivers side front corner of compartment. The cooling system was flushed twice and refilled in April 07 with red colored dexcool. The low engine coolant light is always on but everything is filled to proper operating levels. The puddle that appears is coming from the car and not another source. It usually is about 6 inches accross in diameter. How can I find out what this liquid is and how can I make the low coolant light go off. The sensor may be bad but I am confused as to its location. Is the sensor in the radiator neck or by the intake hose on the engine? I've had this vehicle checked by a mechanic and he did a radiator pressure test that turned out ok. He doesn't know what the problem is.
  • linwlinw Posts: 4
    I just got 2001 Impala LS 3.8L 144K,2 weeks ago. When I took the test drive, I felt a noise when I push the brake all the way down. However, when I double checked the noise was gone, so I just thought I felt something that did not exsit. Three days before, when I drove in the snow, the noise came up again when I push brake quickly with a very slight trembling. It seems that I can feel the break pad touch the disc. Is there anyone have the same problem? and how do you fix it. Thank you!
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    This was answered in the Impala Brakes forum.
  • so my engine fans run too long after i shut my engine off. sometimes up to 10-15 even if engine is cold (ex. walked outside this morning its -12* out. started and shut off my car.. fans ran for 5 min. defrost was off.) i have already replaced the engine fans for different reasons and i also replaced the coolant temp sensor.. still does the same thing. tried a new engine fan relay.. same thing. also my engine temp guage inside the car doest move even after driving 75+ miles.. the only other temp related change that i have made was the part by the blower motor where the wires from the fan speed control come in and switch to the +/- wire to blower motor.. i dont think this could have anything to do with it, im just throwing it out there.. any help is appreciated
  • You may want to replace your thermostat. It sounds like it's stuck open. It happen to my 01 Impala. The engines, at least the 3.4liter, is sourced from China. the thermostats must be made there to! Go figure! It will cost <$300 to have the dealer fix it. I was going to try it myself but it's situated in such a way that it too much work for me. Replacing it should fix your problem.
  • petshotpetshot Posts: 2
    did u find out the problem? i have an 02 also and i am having the exact same problem with the traction system light and the grinding noise.
  • jessicajjessicaj Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Impala ls, and I am having trouble with my engine over heating. When I went to see if I had any coolant, I decided to take the radiator cap off. When i did i had seen that the cap had this orange clay like stuff on it and the hose was clogged with it. Do i need to get a coolant flush or could it be something else?
  • I was having the exact same problem; no A/C. no register of engine temp and the fans would run after turning the motor off. Someone suggested that I remove the positive wire from the battery terminal for about 10 to 15 minutes. This corrected my problem. and it has been running fine for the past month.
  • I have a '05 base, 3.4L, and the engine keeps wanting to overheat. I have a full resevoir of Dex-Cool, but to no avail. I had to put in a gallon of dex-cool a couple of weeks ago (thought that was kinda strange, but went with it, since we've driven the car quite a bit since the last time I had it in for routine maintence). Noticed today that it was going over the middle line of the temp gauge (something that's not normal, at least not for my car. The temp gauge usually stays right in the middle, or below, between 1/4 and halfway). Stopped, got another gallon of dex-cool, filled the resevoir to the fill line, and thought that might do the trick. Not so much.

    I remember my dad talking a couple of years ago about another chevy model he had (I believe it was a trailblazer, but not totally sure) that had a seperate radiator cap from the resevoir cap. Does the '05 Impala have such? Has anyone had this happen to them?

    I'm stressing out. I can't afford a new car right now (nor do I want one) nor can I afford costly repairs. My husband is the only one working right now, as I try to find a job. If anyone has any info, I'm begging for help!


    Melissa :( :confuse: :sick:
  • wesleygwesleyg Posts: 164
    The main radiator cap is on the radiator, look in the owners manual and it will show you where its at. Remove this cap only when the vehicle is cold as it is pressurized.

    You will want to carefully check your oil on the dipstick to make sure antifreeze is not getting into the oil from a manifold leak or some such thing. If you noticed that antifreeze is getting into the oil, you must take immediate action or you're looking at replacing the engine which is as you know a BIG problem. Please let us know if you need further.
  • jsannerjsanner Posts: 2
    My 05 chevy impala has 2 of the 3 guages partially working.
    Fuel guage is fine, Temperature and speedometer work only 5 minutes of shifting into gears. Read on another link there is a recall on the fuel line itself, could leak fluid or false reading on guage, may cause fire.
    Wiper fluid freezes ever year when temperatures get close to freezing. This is the only vehicle I have ever had trouble with.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    Don't get wax on the grainy plastic parts ??? :P

    JK - when I was a young first learning driver, I thought I would do my Grandma a favor by washing and waxing her Lincoln Towncar after she let me borrow it for a date. I ended up getting wax all over the plastic trim and it forever stayed there - she neve said anything, but I am sure she noticed it. I would like to think that she was more grateful that I would be thougtful enought to try and return the vehicle in better condidtion that when I borrowed it in. :D
  • Did you find out what this was? We have had many of the issues I have seen on this sight and you are the first one that I've seen that includes the rusty looking substance in the radiator like I have. My 2005 Impala LS says it is overheating but actually is not, the radiator fans wont kick on and it has been having shifting/jerking issues for two years that is only getting worse. It has been so sad since we had decided to spend money on a "new car" and ended up with all these problems. My car has been parked fro twomonths now. Please let me know if you found out what it was and what caused it. I am on low income budget right now and can't afford "exploratory surgery." Thanks.
  • I have a 2000 Chevrolet Impala and it was working fine until I had got a callback from the Chevrolet dealer for the fire compartment engine to be fixed, after they fixed that a couple weeks after that my battery light would come on chime for 3 seconds then the car would shut off the steering wheel would get stiff to the point i cant turn it and when i tried to crank it back up it want crank it has to sit for a couple hours or minute then it would crank up. I found out it was the fuel pump I had got that fixed the same day i drove it again i had the same problem so i took it too the shop they were like it was the censors to the car. I had got the gaskets a new battery that done under my hood of my car, so it worked for a couple weeks then it started shutting down again the battery light pops up the car shuts completely down, so i found out my fuel pump was no good so i got that replaced but i haven't driven my car since then because when i crank up the car the battery light pops up, the people that fixed my car is really good friends with my family and he keeps telling me too drive the car it want shut off but i'm afraid that it will shut off again in the middle of the road, he says all i need is a regulator to the car because everything under the hood is good.
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