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Hyundai Azera Lighting



  • rgb42rgb42 Posts: 40
    Yeah, the H11 and H11B bases are totally different.
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Posts: 804
    It might be worthwhile to contact Stern and ask about the H11B bulbs. He seems to have access to a wide range and may just have access to the H11B.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    He may very well have access to an H11B bulb, but the problem it being such a new bulb, companies probably haven't begun making after market applications like the ones out there for the other bulbs that are pretty mainstream.

    Right now, it's known that Sylvania makes an H11B, but only as the regular halogens, not the upgraded, Cool Blues, Silverstars or Ultras. I would gather to believe that none of the other makers have jumped on to start making aftermarket upgrades for H11B's yet.
  • 144tap144tap Posts: 44
    I ordered, received, and installed the Philips X/T H7's bulbs from the UK, came in about a week. I used both methods for insall. (creation vs evolution). I'm definitly NOT sold on removing the whole lite housing now, I tried that method first. I mean really, to simply twist the cap off reach in, push the spring wire down holding the back of the bulb in and BAM the bulb is free. I had it replaced in a minute. But, I don't see a Big/Huge diff. in OEM vs X/T's. Someday I'll step up to the HID's.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Maybe there's a problem with the X/T's...there's a huge difference between the OEM and the Silverstar Ultras. I mean...the OEM bulbs cast a yellowish, dull light that doesn't seem to light the road that well. The Ultras are a clean, crisp white color that lights the road in front of you very well. I won't literally say it's a night and day difference, but the difference is very significant.

    I agree with you about the whole idea of removing the headlight housing to change the bulb. I did it once and I was only able to remove one headlight housing successfully, the other one didn't want to come out and I didn't feel like breaking anything in doing so. At any rate...with the housing out...bulb replacement was a snap, have the extra step of removing and replacing the housing.

    If you're looking for a good price on the HID's, contact Supreme Power. The guy there offered me an HID set up for mine for $200, he said he also had one for the fog lights as well...package deal, he offered both sets to me for $350. If I wasn't working on some of these home improvement projects, I would have jumped on that deal!!!
  • psu3psu3 Posts: 15
    Hi all again,

    I've previously described my inability to get my Ultras installed. I could not get the entire light assembly out. I tried to understand the process and only remove the bulbs directly. Still, no luck. I look at the lights with the screw in cap removed (upside down of course) and still not figure out how to remove the bulbs. The lights look like those in Picture B in the manual where it describes bulb replacement. A thorough process description of bulb replacement would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

  • After reading this page I went out and eventually managed to remove the headlight assembly. I removed the nut on the inside then the 2 bolts on top as the Owners Manual shows but it still would not come free so I took out the 4 screws on the top plastic piece that the 2 bolts we attached to. I still had a hard time, but I was patient and just wiggled it a few times gently and it came out. I found that in mine the low beams are the H 11b bulbs. When I put the assembly back in I found that there is a clip on the fender side that the light has to fit into, this is what caused the problem taking it out. A short part of the light assembly fits between two pieces on the body of the car and these fit very snuggly together. Replacement was very easy once I saw where the fit in the bracket.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    There is a spring clip that you have to locate that keeps the bulb in place. You press it down (or towards the front of the headlight) then push it down (towards the ground) to create clearance of the lip it hooks onto. Swing the entire clip up (towardst he engine) and the bulb will come out and all you'll have to do is remove the bulb from the harness. Make a note of how the bulb is in the harness (there's a tab that sticks out on the flat edge of the bulb flange). Also, make sure you do NOT touch the bulb with your fingers (if you do, wipe it off really well with a clean cloth).

    Once you get the bulb in place, the tricky part of working the clip back into place becomes a little test of patience. I say this because the wires for the harness tend to get in the way. patient and work the wires around so you can put the clip back in place to hold the bulb in place and once you're done, screw the dust cap in place and you're done.
  • psu3psu3 Posts: 15
    Well I finally got the light assembly out (after much struggling) and to my surprise the low beams are H11b not H7. Back to the drawing board.

    BTW If your low beam looks like the one in picture B (in the manual where its explaining replacement process) its the H11b.

  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaPosts: 233
    Sorry - I've been on leave for a couple of weeks and not paying attention...

    Daniel Stern states that there are 3 different configurations - but what I have is H11b low beams, H7 high beams and H8 fog lamps. I put the "OSRAM Rallye" 2100 lumen H9 burner on H7 base bulbs in my high beams - otherwise, I'm good.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Ratledge... did you put an H9 bulb where an H7 bulb should go?

    As far as the bulbs go, I'm starting to think that the '06 Azeras were the only ones that use the H7 bulb as the low-beam bulb.
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Posts: 146
    I ordered the Philips Xtreme Power for my '08 Santa Fe and they work well. I replaced the stock bulkbs in my wife's Azera with PIAA bulbs. I have used the Silverstars int eh past, my my last set burned out/filed within 8 months of installation. So far the PIAAs have been going for 2 years.

    The Phillips Xtreme are supposed to be 80 % brighter. I didn't do a test , but I do see the sides of the highway better in the dark. YOu can find them online, best to get the size you need and google shopping will help you search.

    Good luck to all
  • 144tap144tap Posts: 44
    My local Kragens had the Silverstar ultras on sale w/a rebate. So I replaced the Philips X/T's with the ultras, not much difference......except for price. I did put the X/T's in my KIA Sedona. Now that job required me to R&R the lite housing,easily done. The kids,(18,16,14), didn't notice much difference in the OEM's vs X/T's. So, heck with it, I still don't like the "cut off". On another note, Mike, what other things did you have in mind to do to your Zerra before putting in HID's?
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaPosts: 233
    Well, you cheat: use the "OSRAM Ralleye" 65watt part: Here

    It's a 2100 lumen lamp mounted on the H7 base. You may well be right about the H7 low beams being only in '06 models, but I seem to remember somebody saying it was "slipstreamed" in mid-'07 models...
  • wardswards Posts: 17
    I have a 2006 Azera and both Hi and Low use H7's Wards.
  • These appear to be new. Has anyone tried them and with what result? My 07 Asera has a build date of 11/06. Anyone tried replacing the bulbs from a car of that period?
    Do you really need four bulbs (low & high)?
    Do you really have to remove the whole headlight?
    Thanks - much appreciated.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Hey Bob,

    I'm not sure about the new bulbs, I'm still riding with my Sylvania Silverstar Ultras in the low beams. The high beams are still OEM bulbs as I don't really use them much and my fog lights I switched to Nokya Hyper Yellow bulbs.

    I can answer...there are 4 bulbs 2 for low & 2 for high, but you don't necessarily have to replace all 4. Also, you don't necessarily have to remove the whole headlight to replace the bulbs either. The 1st time you try replacing a bulb with the headlight in place, it takes some patience, but after you've done it a couple becomes rather easy.
  • Thanks, as I don't drive that much at night I may not do it, but might try the low beams.
    Way back when I had a 71 Dodge Challenger, I installed driving lights. Too bad we can't get bulbs to change the fog lights to driving lights. In the last 30 years, I have never driven in fog at night, even when I was travelling throughout the South for 20,000 miles per year.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    to be honest, the lower set of lights on most cars now are driving lights. The only way you can make them true fog lights is to put a yellow bulb in them (or use the yellow film), because white light just doesn't work in fog too well. Like you, I've never driven in fog at night, but I've driven through some blizzard like snowfall at night before...WHOA!!!
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    Loved those big Hella and Lucas driving lamps that would send a pair of beams half-a-mile or more out front to let people know they should make way... :shades:
  • I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.

    Believe it or not, changing the fog light bulbs is quite easy. What you have to do is make sure whichever side you're replacing, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side to give you room to work. Then...using a flat blade screw driver or putty knive, pop the wheel well liner out so you can work your hand inside of the fender. It takes a little work, but once you figure it's easy. You then have access to the back side of the fog lights. Reach in, grasp it and twist gently to see which way you need to turn it to remove it. The wire is long enough that you can pull it back towards you, unplug the old bulb and put in the new one.'s just a matter of putting it back in place.
  • don't know about horizontal adj. but vertical easy. guess you know this already. qn: i have 2006 azera too. re: piaa h7 bulbs-did you merely replace original bulbs? can this be done by unscrewing back of lite assembly and removing and installing bulbs? did you do this for both lo & hi bulbs? did this make a real difference in visibility? i see on ebay piaa h7 xtreme wht plus 4000k twin pks for $69 one place and another $26. any advise here would be appreciated. what does 4000k mean?
    thanks, bob
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaPosts: 233
    Both the high and low beam bulbs are a simple 30-second (depending on your dexterity) swap-out. Beware that some Azeras have H7/H7 combination (high and low bulbs are the same) while some have H7 high beams and H11b low beam bulbs. There is NO replacement for the H11b made by anyone that I know of at this point - they are a special OSRAM-designed "quick change" H11 bulb with non-standard connectors.

    Don't expect much of a change is the actual light output replacing your OEM H7 bulbs with PIAA bulbs. They will look different (i.e. 'blue-er') and the higher the color temp (i.e. 4000K is the bulb's color temperature); the more blue-looking they will be. The best replacement bulbs I've found for the stock/OEM H7 bulbs are the OSRAM "Rallye" 65watt bulbs: from the way they are marketed they are likely NOT street-legal, but I always drive my Azera off-road after dark, anyway. :blush: It's basically an H9 (2100 lumen) bulb on an H7 (1400 lumen) base - therefore you're getting a 50% boost in usable light.

    The problem with the PIAA bulbs (I've used a LOT of different bulbs in my '03 Infiniti I-35 and my '08 Azera) is that they have very limited life (maybe 150-200 hours vs. standard bulbs which are 400-500 hour rated), tend to actually have LESS usable light due to the blue-colored coating on the bulbs and - at least for the H7-based Azeras, you need MORE light on the road - not less.

    My '08 has the H11b bulbs - I haven't had any problem with "over-driving" the headlights complaints many H7-equipped Azeras have mentioned. Having both H7 in the high and low beams means you can swap those bulbs out for the special OSRAM Rallye part and have 50% more light on the road all the time. There is no significant difference in the amount of heat generated by these higher-output bulbs. You should be able to find them for about $20-25 each online. I know "" sells them, but (just checked) they are out of stock. :sick:

    Putting 4 of those bulbs in your '06 Azzy should give you 4200 lumens (vs. 2800 lumens for the stock bulbs) with low beams and 8400 lumens (vs. 5600) with high beams on. :shades: Total about $80-100 for a 50% boost in usable light, which is not much more than you'll pay for a pair of PIAA bulbs (depending on the specific bulbs, maybe less) - and you'll be replacing all 4 instead of just the low beams.
  • boblawboblaw Posts: 3
    thanks for the reply. i have been reading about the osram nite breaker. seller says this bulb is a replacement for the oem halogen bulb. it says nothing about a kit having to be used. and seller says illumination is increased by 90%. can anyone advise me about this? price is british pounds 20.
    thanks, boblaw
  • ratledgeratledge Charleston county, South CarolinaPosts: 233
    In general, the +90 series ("NightBreaker" or whatever) is not going to boost your usable light output by the much, Bob. It should indeed work as a direct replacement for the bulb as long as it is the same Hx model number you are replacing. The only 'fix' for those of us that have H11b low beams is to whittle yourself two H9 sockets in their place and put the 2100 lumen bulbs in place.
  • By chance I was able to get a good comparison of the Silverstar agaisnt the Silverstar Ultras. I had a headlight bulb go out on a trip at night. I had Silverstars in both headlamps. When the one went out I pulled an "extra" bulb out of the glove box and replaced the Silverstar with a Silverstar Ultra. I wasn't convinced until this comparison but the Ultra was definitely much brighter.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Extra bulbs are so nice to have on hand! ;)
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160

    I'm currently running on stock bulbs on my 07 Azzy. However, I'm itching to get the Silverstars on my car. The place where we live is unlighted at night & brighter lights would definitely help.

    What I am worried about is the rumor that these replacements don't last as long as the OEMs. I have heard that they go out almost once every 1-2 years. Is that the case? If so, why can't Sylvania make reliable ones as OEMs?

    I want brighter light but I want them to last as long as the OEMs. Can you guys help me? I don't want the lights to konk out when my wife is driving as she's not at all mechanically inclined. (Her idea of changing a tire is calling me to do it, lol!!)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Wobbly ears...headlights are a funny thing. I've had OEM bulbs go out within the 1st year of ownership. I've also had aftermarket bulbs last longer than a year. The problem is you're dealing with an electrical system and surges can cause bulbs to blow. Other factors are how many miles you're driving and how often you drive at night. Also, if you're the type that drives with your headlights on during the effectively shorten the life of those bulbs greatly because the U.S. Azeras don't have a daytime running light funtion that burns the headlights at a fraction of the voltage as they would with night driving.

    In reality, a bulb never goes out at an opportune time and about the only thing you can do is maybe by 2 sets at one time to have spare bulbs on hand in the event one should go out. A light bulb lasting 1-2 years is really, really good (especially halogens). However, according to the lighting experts, we aren't supposed to be waiting for the bubls to blow before replacing them as the bulb naturally grows dimmer over time (which makes sense). You can get a set of Silverstar Ultras for between $35-40/pr. and lasting 1-2 years...that's not a bad return actually.
This discussion has been closed.