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Ford Windstar Alternator and Battery Problems
Has anyone changed these items?
Do you have a link detailing the process?
Do you have any other helpful hints to successfully accomplish this task?
Thanks
Do you have a link detailing the process?
Do you have any other helpful hints to successfully accomplish this task?
Thanks
0
Comments
autozone.com gives free access to repair manuals, you might check there.
I successfully replaced our alternator by giving a mechanic about $325.
A new alternator is about $180,a new belt is around $20.
$125 for labor is not bad, but I like a challenge.
Anyone else have any good tips?
The final bill, including the tow, was over $300.00.
It sucks to not be mechanically gifted! Wish I could have done it myself.
I know the mechanic said that the alternator alone was almost $200.00, the tow was about $50.00 and the labor around $60.00.
Maybe something is draining the battery? Has anyone has this problem?
Or maybe that can of WD-40 I sprayed (yesterday) into the inter workings of my alternator fixed the voltage output problem found during the Autozone test on Monday? Or maybe not!
TJ wija
jw
The answer from Ford was this was a recall back in 2000 I think, this site will have that info too. But, the recall is only good once or 10k miles. BS. Good luck.
Got the van home and after a few minutes, everyting started working again. Started it later tonight to move onto parking area.
Thought about replacing the battery, but I think there is something else wrong.Any thoughts???
Also one of the passenger doors doesn't work at times with the remote.
And sometimes the passenger side window will not open or close.
I've gotten some great ideas on correcting this and will have my boyfriend check this out.
Thanks to all for the ideas.
I had the same problem. After fixing a few things I found the answer by taking it to a Ford dealership. Mine is a 2001 Windstar. The stalling like behavior was due to a leak in the air intake manifold gasket. I had to have the manifold, gasket, and pins replaced. This cost about $350. The radio's odd behavior was due to a grounding wire not being screwed in tight and losing its ground. The screw was located on top of the radiator housing next to the hood latch mechanism. This was a simple fix, just tighten the screw down.
Thanks for the info.
I have done some diagnostics and found the following:
1. The drain seems to be related to the interior lights, based on pulling fuses. The biggest change comes when pulling fuse 1 of the internal fuse panel.
2. The entry lights for the sliding doors seem to stay on sometimes, even when the Van has been turned off and locked for quite a while. It may be happening regularly but because they are down low behind the driver they simply don't get noticed, especially in daylight.
3. I took the bulbs out of these two entry lights and checked the current drain through the battery and it seems to be in the 500-650mA range - it gets lower with time; 500mA seems to be about the minimum.
4. This remaining current looks to be related to coil current on internal Relays 1&4. If I pull them the draw goes down to around 50mA, which is probably about the lowest it will go on a normal vehicle.
I haven't yet looked at the connector under the driver's area carpet - a suggestion from another forum. That will be next on my list. (I am still confused as to why the two internal entry lights for the sliding door areas would stay on while other internal lights switch off - probably a clue but I don't have a decent wiring diagram).
I did also check the door open alarm on all the doors and it works well, suggesting all the door switches are operating correctly. Alternator checks out OK, as does the battery.
(Also it seems this problem is worse in cold weather, but that may simply be related to battery capacity vs. temperature).
Suggestions welcome.
Bert