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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems



  • I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The BCM got slowly sick, as manifested by a chime that was at first intermittent... then hard on for 4 minutes everytime the car is rolling after a stop. Go figure but was driving us crazy. I took it to the dealer, they said bad BCM, charged me $100 for the diags, wanted $800 for new BCM.

    So I went to boneyard, pulled one out of 1999 Town and Country, since I couldn't find the exact same year or part number. But I figured it had to support all the features of "last years" model... and after I installed it seemed to work fine, oh, and adding 12K miles to the odometer... small price to pay.

    I notice that the remote key entry did not work with the replacement BCM. Is this for real and how do I fix that...take it to the dealer?? I am asking, because I don't know, but I can imagine this might be the case...keys go with the car(BCM) so to speak..I can imagine it might need to be "re-keyed".

    Then I made the mistake of testing the ALARM, I locked my kid inside, saw the alarm indicator come on and then go out after 10 seconds (normal), then I told him to open the door. Alarm (horn, lights) came on as usual, but without the remote working I could not disable as usual! So I pulled the battery cable... will 30 minutes reset it? I hope so... enough to get it to the dealer tomorrow???

    Any advice welcome.

  • I'm not sure if the Plymouth Grand Voyager would be set up the same way as my 1998 Olds '88. I was told that my BMC was bad too but after investigating I discovered that the Keyless remote is controlled by a Remote Function Actuator module (RFA). A couple of things may have happened with your "fix". The replaced BCM could have done something to the RFA since it's an off model number, the two could just not be talking because they're not compatible or the RFA could have gone south on its own. Have you tried to re-synchronize your remote to your car?
  • The BCM on this vehicle IS sick, and replacing it with the new BCM worked fine.... except for the remote keys not working.

    If there is an easy way to "re-synch" the remote to the car I would love to try that, send along instructions. Or is this something only the dealer can do?
  • The drives side power door only closes about half way. Any suggestion on what would cause that.
  • Partial opening or closing of the door is most porbably caused by a broken wire in the harness that runs along with the door. Not sure if your harness for the GC is in the lower or upper track. The harness connects at the van body at the front of the door opening and at near the arm on the door. I had the same issue in my '05 T&C. Pulled out the harness, found the damage and spliced in a new piece. Good luck.
  • I fixed this problem. What I did was go back to the boneyard and find a 1998 vehicle, and pulled the BCM out of that, the part numbers ALMOST matched... 62AD versus the original 62AE which was sick... but close enough. Every feature now worked perfectly, and the key remote worked too!!! Go figure. But all is well.

    I also replaced right power door lock latch (little clutch on mechanism wears out, these should be tested with 12V battery first, if it sounds like something spinning, the clutch is worn, mechanism no good). Find one that just goes clunk/clunk like lock/unluck, I pulled 3 of them to get one good one.
  • At 37,000ish miles I started my van one day and put put it in reverse, took my foot off the brake but it didn't move. I gave it some gas and it lurched backward. This occured going forward and backward.
    I put 2 quarts of ATF+4 in, in increments of half quarts. The lurching problem went away and only a small transmission whine could be heard. Note that this van (as many current vehicles) does not have a transmission dip-stick to check fluid levels. Where the dip stick should be is a cap which reads "Dealer Service Only".

    About 350 highway miles later, the transmission failed. I had parked it (at a rest stop) and when I came out 20 mins later, the van would barely move in D or R.

    Towed it to the nearest Chrysler Dealer. Picked it up 5 days later with a rebuilt transmission installed. I purchased the 08 used with 15,000 miles on it. It had been an Enterprise rental prior. The warranty expired at 36,000, but Chrysler agreed to pay the balance of the work if I paid $500 deductible. The total bill was over $4,000.

    The rebuilt tranmission carries a 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.
    I had the work done at Aurora Chrysler in Aurora, OH and I was pleased with their service. The sales manager even drove me to 30 mins round trip so I could drop off the rental car.

    I would assume that Chrysler knows about some faulty transmissions to so quickly pay for the new one (mostly). If you hear a noise or feel any lurching in the transmission, get it to a dealer immediately.

    Aside from the transmission here are the other problems I've had with the van:
    - one of the fasteners that hold the overhead console/bins to the roof broke and was replaced under warranty.
    - at around 25,000 miles, the rear brakes would bind (one one at a time). Both sets of roters, calipers, pads were replaced under warranty.

    Overall I love the vehicle, but wish it was more reliable.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Most of Chrysler's new engines will be Fiat derived.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Most of Chrysler's new engines will be Fiat derived.

    That may be a good thing. The 1.2L that was in my '73 128-SL was like a sewing machine compared to the 4-bangers that were coming out of Detroit at the time.
    'Course, the engine was, by far, the best part of the car :shades: .
  • joy28joy28 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to get the door back on the track? There is a rocking mechanism with two horizontal rubber wheels and one vertical wheel. I can get the first horizontal wheel in the track and start the vertical wheel, but am having difficulty getting the back wheel in. This happened to us once before and when it went in it went all at once, but we didn't see how it went. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • I have had window regulator problems on my 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan over the past 4-5 years. Initially, they were intermittent problems going up and down but became fixed problems later. I have replaced both the driver side and the passenger side motor/regulator assemblies.

    The local Dodge dealership quoted me a little over $400 dollars to replace one side.

    If you need to replace the motor regulators then order the following Dorman (aftermarket) solutions:

    741-823 (Drivers Side)

    741-824 (Passenger Side)

    I purchased these from Amazon. They seem to have the cheapest prices. Free shipping is a plus.

    I have broke the white retainer clips inside the doors numerous times, the Dodge part # is - 6505292-AA. I found these clips in bulk at (P/N: A19386). Much cheaper than going through the dealership.

    Also, I found this website that does a pretty good job showing you how to remove the door assemblies. See the following link: p_Chrysler_minivan.html

    Hope this helps. Thanks.
  • Our power slide door would only open a few inches with my 2005 GC SXT and found this forum looking for a solution. Like other posts have said there is a broken wire in the flexible plastic wiring track to the door.

    This is how I fixed it
    - What you need: Philips #2 Screwdriver - Small Flat Screwdiver - Wire Stripper and your choice of something to join the wire together (I used a insulated crimp wire connector that will take a 14/16 Gauge wire).

    - Open the side door to the full open position.

    - Use the Philips screwdriver to remove the cover (attached with 2 screws) to the power door motor.

    - Remove the wire bundle from the guide on the motor to give you enough slack to work with the wires.

    - I flexed the bundle of wires until the hazard lights started flashing like they would when the door was working properly (this may or may not work for you). That gave me an idea where the wire was broken. Our wire was broken about 2-4" away from the motor close to where the wire starts to enter the flexible plastic track. Our broken wire was the largest of the wires in the bundle it did not appear to have a colored line on the wire. It was also a clean break almost through all the insulation.

    - If necessary - use the flat screwdriver to carefully pry the link on both sides of the plastic track to allow you to move it side to side to either inspect the wire or to work on it .. If your wire is broken further down the wiring track. It easily snaps back together so just be careful on removal and don't worry too much about this step.

    - Once you've located the break - Strip about 1/4 inch from each side of the wire and join it together with the insulated crimping connector (make sure it's fully inserted) or you can solder a piece of wire (It appears to be a #16 gauge threaded wire) - make sure no wire is exposed after your fix (tape or use heat shrink tubing).

    - Snap back any links and re-insert the wire bundle into guide the bottom of the motor. Screw back the motor cap.

    Your door should now be fully operational again and shouldn't cost you more that $1 to fix and an hour of your time.

    Hope this helps.
  • I dropped my 08 T&C van limited (cost me $42,000 new) off at the dealer yesterday for brake vibrations and transmission clunking sounds. I got a call from the dealer today telling me all 4 rotors were warped and I also need new pads for a total cost of $600. The van has 18,000 mi. and just turned a year old (mostly highway miles). They found nothing wrong with the trans. I called Chrysler customer service and very patiently explained to them that I don't believe this is normal wear for brakes (my previous Chrysler vans easily got 30-35K miles between brake jobs. Chrysler agreed to look into it but made no promises. So I'm out 600 bucks and still have a tranny that will probably go in the next year or so. The doors creak the air cond is having problems and I'm fed up with the B.S. from the dealer. Anyone looking to buy a slightly use P.O.Sh**(t Van?? I should of looked at this forum before I bought because I would never have purchased this van. It's too late now but at least maybe someone else won't make the mistake most of us did as illustrated in this forum. Thanks guys for sharing your problems.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sorry to hear about your problems. Given how much you've invested in the vehicle and the big depreciation hit if you sell it or trade it in, I would go to another dealer for service. Even if you have to drive a bit out of the way it's worth a shot. I've owned Chrysler made vehicles for a number of years and from my own experience, there is a big variation in the quality of dealer service among Chrysler dealers. Some are pretty good and others, well are downright awful. Good luck.
  • I was going to post this until after I pick up my Van but I just found out my van won't be ready for a while yet so here goes. After paying $600 for a complete brake job on my 2008 T&C (18 K miles) I left the dealership and drove home. Immediately I started hearing a pinging sound from the rear. I drove home and planned on bringing the vehicle back the next day. Well on my way to the dealer the next day my brakes completely locked up. I had to call the police for traffic control while I waited for a tow truck. towed my van back to the dealer. After waiting a while the dealer said that the mechanic who worked on my brake job forgot to tighten the bolts holding the calipers. So while driving to the dealer the caliper came apart and jammed the rear wheel. I told the dealer I could have been injured or killed if I had been going freeway speeds. He appologized and promised to fix the van.

    Has anyone out there have any experieces like this? I mean this dealership almost killed me and all they say is sorry. My wife is hesistant to ever drive this crap van again. Any recourse here???? Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    The power window on the passenger side of my wife's 2007 DGC stopped working back in the summer. I finally got around to pulling the door panel off this past weekend, fulling expecting to have to remove and replace the window regulator.

    I used a battery charger to apply +12V directly to the motor. I could hear it hum, but there was no movement in the window. So, on a lark I removed the cable drive assembly from the motor (3 silver headed bolts). Once I pulled that away from the output gear of the motor, I again applied +12V to the motor and saw that it was working, in both directions. So, I put the cable drive drum back on the motor gear, bolted everything back together and, lo and behold, the window now works!!!

    I lubricated the window track, not sure if maybe the problem was just a sticking pane of glass. I'm also wondering if maybe the cable was binding in the drum. I am leaving the door panel off for now in case the problem shows back up again.
  • Did you ever find out where the hissing noise came from? I have the same problem and it drives me crazy!! Please let me know if you found anything.
  • Has anyone noticed a HISSING/ LEAKING noise from the dash when the vehicle travelling 40MPH or lower? The noise is almost constant but goes away for a few seconds and comes back again. If your in park and brake torque it also makes the noise. It drives me crazy!!!
  • noni4noni4 Posts: 6
    Yes Madison29 I do hear that hissing. Could be from the interior filter, at least that is what I'm assuming. What really irks me the most is when it rains I always have a pounding sound from underneath the car as if I have a flat tire or something is banging against the frame
  • When my 02 T&C driver's side electric window failed, I also removed the motor to try a no-cost fix. After cleaning the armature grooves and re-assembling w/ grease, the motor worked fine, so I felt smart. But after re-assembly it would stall going up (clicking sound). I suspect the problem isn't only the motor but increased drag in cables and pulleys and an overload ratchet slips. I found a new assembly for ~$45 on e-bay, so installed that. These motor-cable assemblies look generic, so I imagine used on many different cars, in just a few sizes. Better than my 85 Mercedes where people ask $200 for a used motor. I also found several wires with cut insulation (not broken). Someone had wrapped a little electrical tape. I wonder if a factory "repair" after someone cut the wires with a utility knife like opening a bag. I fixed w/ "liquid tape".
  • This question shouldn't be under windows, but I'll answer anyway. My 02 T&C also makes a sheet-metal rattling sound, only at idle, getting louder. It is worse with the blower on and also w/ AC. Totally gone above 1000 rpm. I can't locate the source using a hose to the ear. With a stethoscope, it seems to come from the AC clutch bearing, but doesn't sound like a bearing. In better weather I'll put it on ramps and take off the serpentine belt to insure.

    My current hypothesis is the catalytic converter is broken, i.e. ceramic chips rattling around inside. Reasons:
    1. At higher engine speeds the exhaust gas may hold the chips so they don't rattle.
    2. It sounds exactly like sheet metal raps, but the heat shields are tight.
    3. I read a post where a guy thought valve lifters, but no luck after replacing. I don't want another engine project, so that is not considered.
    4. I had almost the same sound in my 96 Voyager 2.4L several years ago. I finally figured out it must be the catalytic converter, replaced for $200, and the noise disappeared. Also, we had barely passed emissions the time before, but with the new cat emissions were extremely low. Indeed, so near the limit I had to go to a special testing center the 2nd time (strict CA laws).

    When I resolve my 02 T&C, I'll post the fix (not under Windows & Doors). Or someone replace their cat conv first and let me know.
  • bas1124bas1124 Posts: 2
    Have had numerous problems with this van.. Motor replaced in side sliding doors.. After 4 visits, replaced motor on back hatch door ..Brakes & rotors replaced at 18000 miles.. Have 37,000 miles on van now.. About once every 3 or mos. the car would start and I have no power to accessories, i.e.. windows, lights, radio.. Mentioned to dealer when I took it in for oil change and they did system updates... Now it's happening 1 -2 times a week, but of course, never when they have it. It does kick back on after 2 or 3 minutes of driving ... I have to agree.. this is a piece of [non-permissible content removed] and always something new going wrong!
  • moosetntmoosetnt Posts: 18
    I hear you. I started having brake problems at 17K miles (I've posted before so you can check it out). Had a full brake job (4 rotors, pads replace) cost $600. Filed a complaint with Chrysler. Still waiting for a check. Back seat still does not work right. Air conditioner not cooling properly. MGIG radio looses info (dealer updated software but I still have problems). BTW: after my brake job at 17K miles I had to have the fronts replaced again after 2K miles (dealer claims brake pads fell apart). I'm starting to think the 2008 T&C was built at the YUGO factory in Yugoslavia. Doors don't close right, brakes suck, seat motors don't work, NAV/radio goes out. Transmission is clunking. WHAT A PIECE OF SHI*$T!!!! I paid over $40K for my van (limited with every option except the engine heater). Unfortunately a lot of the options don't work. I'll keep going back to my dealer to get this crap fixed. This is probably the worst van Chrysler has ever built. WE ARE SUCKERS FOR BUYING THIS CRAP!!!!!!

  • Purchased 2008 T7C Limited with 2miles (Brand New) in July 2008. Two sets of front disc brakes and rotors in 25,000 almost all highway miles (6 cross USA trips)!!!! Dealer says it's an real problem with this model, yet no help from Chrysler...normal wear and tear???? Check engine light has been on for thousands of miles and although the dealer "fixes" it , the light come back on within a day or so after leaving the dealer --- yet the van seems to run okay!?!?

    Chrysler needs to own-up to the brake issue (under-sized brakes for wgt of van) and provide replacement free of charge or with a small deductible!

    Other than these issues, the van is superb.

    Dr. Thomson
  • judyjewjudyjew Posts: 6
    I have a 2008 dodge grand caravan with door problems. I have had problems with the doors opening by themselves since the day I bought it. I will never buy another dodge. The dealership sucks.
    they say it is impossible for the doors to open by themselves.
  • paintpro75paintpro75 Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I bought a used T&C touring with swivel and go back in January of this year. all was just peachy until I brought the vehicle back to the dealer for a software update that the salesman claimed it "had to have", immediately after, it started making an annoying roaring sound on the highway-but not consistently, it seems to come and go usually at speeds in excess of 65 MPH. I called the service manager as soon as I noticed it and he assured me that they did nothing that would have caused any changes in the vehicle's performance or operation. Ok, now I tell him that I've got nothing better to do with my time but fabricate merit less issues that would allow me MORE time to sit and rot away at the service department's luxury oasis. He tells me to bring the vehicle back so he can test drive it- again this problem is inconsistent, so it may or may not replicate whilst captain butt hole is at the helm. Anyone have a clue what im up against?
  • Not sure where my orginal message went. Intermitlently the temp gauage, speedodmeter and the PRND3L symbols shut down. It can be Ok for months and then act up for days or weeks. The symbols will light up with a square box around each, and occasionally when you hit a bump will all come back to normal operation but not always. The doors locks will lock after 15km speed and occasionaly it will sound as to lock again at higher speeds and the guages will come back to normal operations. Could this be the Body Control Module (BCM) or the Power Control Module (PCM), would a reflash and up date help to resolve this question. Or is this a short and possibly where. Your replies and thoughts would be much appreciated.
  • I also purchased my 2008 T&C Limited brand new in June 2008. I drive a lot of highway miles (1 hour to work), and at 4000 miles my brakes started making noises. Dealership just blew it off numerous times. Finally at 18000 miles, they told me that I only had 10% of brakes and they needed to be replaced ASAP. The dealership ate that and replaced the front brakes. It stopped the noise for about a week and then started in again. I'm at 45000 miles now and am having to get Front AND REAR brakes replaced AND ROTARS!!!! This is CRAZY! I had a yukon for years and never did anything with the brakes! So now the chrysler dealership is closed in the town I live in. The one thing I know is I will NEVER buy another P O S Chrysler!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    edited March 2010
    Yeah, it is insane. I have a '98 DGC and have worn the front brakes less than 20% after 45,000 miles - I consider that "normal." Total, these brakes have 60,000 miles on them and are at ~70% in the front. Like you, I tend to drive many highway miles.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • We replaced a wheel bearing in our 2008 T&C at 48K. A bad bearing will whine then roar. BTW my 94 BMW needed a wheel bearing at 130K after 14 years.
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