Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems



  • moosetntmoosetnt Posts: 18
    I have a 2008 T&C limited van. I've had numerous brake problems on my van. I did a little research based on all the comments on this thread over the past year. RESULTS: Based on all posts the average brake life on a 2008 T&C is about 15,000 miles. My brakes failed at 17,000 (needed new pads, rotors for all 4 wheels - $600 bucks) so I believe these posts. So if the average person drives 15,000 mi/yr. you would need to have a full brake job every year. My prior 2 chrysler vans (1999, 2005) needed front brakes after 30,000 and rears at about 50,000.

    I'm really pissed off at the fact that Chrysler can get away with this faulty design.
  • moosetntmoosetnt Posts: 18
    I have an 08 T&C. I've noticed many times when I park my van and come back that the side door is opened. There are 2 possibilities for doors to open by themselves... 1) The key (with mine I can click twice and the doors open automatically) when in your pocket somehow got hit twice and thus the door opened. I've been really careful when I put my key away after parking my van but yet the doors still open.

    2) the dealer is B.S. and there is a problem with doors.
  • kpot03kpot03 Posts: 1
    I bought my 09 Chrysler T&C brand new and ever since the driver side power slider has made creeking noises over small bumps, when accelerating and braking. The dealer tried cleaning and lubing, same thing. Once in a while the doors will stop and reopen.
    Any ideas?
  • cfli1688cfli1688 Posts: 3
    We had this problem on and off. Whenever it rains, we would have problem with the power steering. The other day it was raining, I turn in to a parking lot and suddenly the power steering stop working for a couple of second and it works again. Any idea?
  • prazeauprazeau Posts: 1
    Did that fix work permanently or have you had to follow with more extensive repairs?

    I have a very similar passenger power window problem in 2005 T&C. I can hear a hum without the door panel off, but the window doesn't budge.

    Thanks in advance for your response. FJP
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    So far, the fix is working. Window still works.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Sounds like a belt is slipping.
  • jrunyansjrunyans Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    I have a 2002 Town and Country. The rear sliding door lock is stuck in the LOCKED position. I cannot unlock the door with the key fob, the interior switch (on front door) or manually. This is a NON powered door. Any suggestions?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Try some lubricant like WD40. Good luck.
  • tdavispttdavispt Posts: 1
    2003 Chrysler TC - Driver side rear vent window is stuck open. All other windows operational. I have the Panel off and now I'm stuck like my window...Any suggestions, please..
  • basline11basline11 Posts: 13
    Having any issues with your battery lately? I had a window stop working (passenger side). A week later I couldn't start the van. I had the battery checked. It wasn't charging. Once replaced, the window now works again and has pep like new. Strange but true! Possibly the battery - check it.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Pull the connector that goes to the motor. Using a 12V source, apply 12V across the 2 motor leads in one direction, then in the other direction. See if the motor turns or the window moves in either case. This will help isolate the problem.

    I am assuming the rear window drives are a lot like those for the power windows.

    Caution - I recommend you use a couple of amp battery charger as the 12V source - not your car battery. It's much safer that way, should you accidently short something.
  • jol24jol24 Posts: 1
    Had to replace right front wheel bearing at about 59K on our '08 T&C (probably should have earlier, but took awhile to determine source). Now that that deafening roar (at highway speeds) is gone, we can tell the left one is beginning to roar. Our '99 T&C is just short of 300K and only needed wheel bearing replacements (rear) about 7K ago. Our '08 is also on its 2nd transmission and still doesn't shift right. The '99 had over 200K before original transmission replacement. Gas mileage on the '08 is horrible too - at least 5 or 6 less mpg's than the high-mileage '99 still gets. Boy do we wish we could find a low- to mid-mileage '99 to replace the '08 with!!
  • susanarsusanar Posts: 3
    Hi All,
    This has probably been discussed but I need help or suggestions. Anyways, I have a 2005 T&C standard- no bells and whistles just power windows and locks, I went to unlock my door by hitting the button on my key and nothing. I thought it was my key until I went in and hit my unlock switch on my door and nothing. I brought it up to my mechanic and he stated that it was my BCM. He said that he wiped out the memory and I should be fine, until when he didnt say. 4 days after the wipe out I now I have to bring it to a dealer but with a new issue that occurred. My back passager door does not unlock, even with trying to open manually and my trunk opens w/ my button on my key and locks as well. I didnt get the extended warranty because some of the issues I have had w/ this car was not cover by the warranty I did have. I really hate this car and believed I have a :lemon: and can't do anything about it, I've tried. Anyways if there is anyone out there that has had this problem and can suggest what they did and what happen I would appreciate. I really dont want to keep putting money in this heep of crap on wheels :mad:
  • jrunyansjrunyans Posts: 2
    Yes I had the same problem. On some models the water draining off of the windshield is diverted on to the s belt causing it to slip. (water pump as well as power steering will not work and engine can over heat). I took mine to the dealer and they were able to fix in in less than 30 min. My dealer did not charge anything for doing this. That was over a year ago and so far this has not happened again. Good luck! :)
  • My vehicle is also the 2005 T&C. I have had the exact same problem for the past two weeks. Like you, I thought it was my remote key, until I tried it on the inside. I can't find any reference in the manual for a fuse that would cover this.

    This is the first real problem I've had with my T&C. Other than that, I really like this van.

    Anyway, I have an appointment to have it looked at tomorrow. Is the BCM wipe expensive? I'm guessing no... I hope it works!
  • There is a high high probabilty that the body control module (BCM) is NOT faulty. I once found a reference to a "feature" of the system where if any of the locks were binding, it turned off the lock activation so not to burn out the actuators or motors. The door motors and back hatch are separate from the front doors and sliders so one may go out without affecting the others. There are two ways to reset the system. The first one and easiest is to pull a 10 amp fuse and replace it after about 10 minutes. The fuse box is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment. (here's the kicker to all this) I can't recall what it's labeled! My wife has the van at work so I'll have to post the fuse tag later. The second way to reset it would be to pull the negative cable off the battery for about 10 minutes. I had a binding lock and worked the linkage with a little lubricant spray which has helped. I truly believe it's a design flaw in the locks but I've got it to the point where I only end up having to reset it (pull the fuse) 5-6 times over the last year.
  • susanarsusanar Posts: 3
    Hi Frank,
    I was told by my mechanic a couple of hundred, which I dont want to sink another dollar into this. I don't want to call the dealer but I have to for my son's sake, he's in the back seat and I'm afraid of my locks freezing up, which wouldn't surprise me if the did. Let me know how you make out and what was wrong w/ it. Thanks
  • susanarsusanar Posts: 3
    Hi baseline11, Please let me know as well what label it is. I'm not handy but as long as I have the info I can pretty much figure things out. My mechanic says that the BCM needs to be wiped out to have a clean memory to go on. I'm really tired of my van and I really don't have the money to keep sinking it into. My van has only 56k on it and has given me nothing but grief ever since I rolled out of the lot. It's not considered a lemon by law because it's not the same issue happening over and over again. Its every other thing breaking down on it. Sorry to rant. Let me know what you find out and I'm willing to try anything to salvage the beast. Thanks
  • Sounds like the break problem is consistant, mine had to be replaced in the mid-20s. I noticed that you seem to have the same electrical problems that we are currently experiencing. A few months ago it all the warning lights came on, radio not working, all windows locked up, windshield wipers won't turn off and always on a 90 degree day. This happened once, then again a few weeks later, until it almost became a common occurance always on the hottest day of the year. It is currently sitting in the parking lot of the dealer taken apart, running so they can figure out the problem, luckily Chrysler is covering all this under warranty. It has been in the shop for 3 of the past 4 weeks. Not sure I want my familiy in this vehicle with some of the other wiring problems that could cause loss of cntrol. This on top of steering column problems, brakes, electric door....This van is a POS!! They just lost my business on a new Jeep. :lemon:
  • jmilnerjmilner Posts: 1
    Hi Friends,
    I, like the rest of you made the mistake of buying a Chrysler. My rear brake caliper stuck on the way back to Ohio in the Virginia, W.V. mountains on a sat. afternoon. I'm at about 38K, second set of brakes, but bought an expensive extended warranty. We called Chrysler, and they couldn't care less. They didn't even know about their warranty. I had 7 people in my van, and they endangered us with their careless attitude. The worst part is I took it to a Chrysler dealer at Mrytle Beach and told them the caliper was bad. They proceded to replace the brake shims, charge me $100 and told me it was ok. LET'S NOT WASTE ANY MORE TIME, WHO KNOWS HOW TO SUE THESE CLOWNS?
  • gbrittgbritt Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan and the left side sliding door is locked and will not open by electronic button and you cannot force the lock up to manually open! I have disconnected battery for several minutes - nothing changed. Any suggestions?
  • We bought and 08 in May of '08. Took it back after about 1 1/2 months for it's first 3,000 mile oil change. Told I could not take it home radiator was leaking. Seven days later it was fixed. Doors never closed on an incline many visits for that. At 6,000 miles needed new front brakes and rotors. Chrysler paid. Nav system has never worked right. Freezes up and you can't work anything including radio until turned off and "resets"itself. Four nav systems later it is still happing. Air conditioning didn't work blew hot air. Told hose was too short and needed to be replaced. They finally recalled that one! Then another set of rotors and brakes for the back! chrysler wouldn't pay this time! Car had less than 12,000 miles by the time all of this happened. Car now have 38,000 miles on it and is falling apart literally! three sets of front brakes and two sets of rotors. Two sets of back brakes and rotors. Car sounds like it is whistling air when on the highway. Told me they can't hear it. Car makes creaking sound when accelerating and driving they think it could be tie rods or wheel hub. The other day I had to have it towed to the dealer because it smelled like it was burning and started to chug. They said it was a bad radiator cap! Today I have a loud grinding noise as I drive. What's next? I think it will be the transmission. New shifted right but they said nothing was wrong. Jolts if you slow down but don't stop and then press on the gas again. I would dump it if I could. My mom had an '08 carvan and has not had a single problem I have. Guess I should of bought the caravan or the odessy!
  • noni4noni4 Posts: 6
    I hear you... I haven't had the radiator problem, but still have problems with the Nav. system. Most of the time just give up on trying to find things, I had two radio's replaced with the system as you say, sometimes doesn't even come on and waits to re-set. I've said from the beginning that the air didn't work correctly and I was told by the mechanic it was fine, I did not get a re-call on that one. I came across the front strut and brake problem early also, I think about 10,000 miles, the warranty covered that but shortly after I took it back for who knows what and the Technician told me, "whoever put those new struts on did a shabby job," I actually laughed and said, "Tony, your guys put them on." I also have the trans problem now, I get the jolting and now I have the reving sound. Oh also, I had the smoking of the rear brakes and it was the calibur that was stuck. Yeah, fear this car!!! :lemon:
  • bbjohnbbjohn Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 2008 T&C Tourning with 15,000 miles. My wife heard break noise on the drive home from the dealer. We took it back in and they said we need pads/rotors for both front and rear. We took it in at 6pm and they also said the battery was dead the next morning so the replaced the battery as well. All of this is being replaced at no charge to me so that is good.

    Question - are they replacing the pads/rotors with the same junk or do the have some new parts that actually work?

    Ugh, I just got rid of my 2002 olds minivan. I had basically zero problems in 100,000 miles and now I am going to this Chrysler and it appears I am in for lots of problems over the next 5 years...
  • noni4noni4 Posts: 6
    The problem that I came accross is the brakes themselves. They are some kind of ceramic and the grind down quickly. I have already put in three sets of brakes and I just turned 50,000 miles. I have trans problems now, seems to be stuck in third and won't shift to overdrive. Then of course, since I live in the midwest and all that rain, I ALWAYS have a pounding underneath my car when driving even in the mist type. My panels on the exterior are becoming loose AGAIN :confuse: seems I'm told that's the way they are, never seen it on other cars. The automatic seat on exit no longer works, who knows why. I'm taking it in soon along with a burly guy..

    Good luck on your purchase, I don't wish any of this on anyone else. I hope Chrysler has some redeeming qualities.
  • jimryanjimryan Posts: 1
    I have this problem intermittently. We just keep trying. Usually within 3 times it starts. If you find the solution please update the forum.
  • My T&C has hit a new low, FLAMES shooting out of the front passanger side tire! Four kids and myself in the car! Finally Chrysler is going to investigate my car.
  • mumuv3mumuv3 Posts: 1
    My drivers window (03 chrysler town and country) has not worked for some time. I have opened the motor in the past and cleaned out inside and moved the coiled wires which I read on another post. This worked for several months. At one point it was stuck down again and i hit the door to try to get it to work. This caused all windows to stop working- even with their own switches. My vehicle was due for inspection so I just took it in for repair. They said they replaced the drivers window switch which fixed all other windows except the drivers door- which they want to replace the window motor in. Wouldn't the windows have worked with their own switches if I had caused damage to the drivers switch? I'm thinking they probably changed a fuse and charged me for a switch. ????
  • I too have experienced many of the problems listed on this forum: Everything electric would just stop working, brake problems (front pads and rotors, back pads) all before 22K miles, the loud ticking noise from the exhaust (I guess maybe it is the catalytic converter.....I was told that was a "normal" noise), and the sliding doors that kept popping open. On the up side, the electrical and door problems seem to have been resolved. I am taking it in again this week (I am around 28,000 miles) because my van is becoming increasingly noisy when I drive it. A very loud reverberation/hum shows up around 35mph, and gets noisier with increased speeds. Now I am scared it is the aforementioned bearings problem. I also had some trouble this winter with the vehicle lurching. I thought maybe it was moisture in the fuel lines, since I live in a cold climate and tend to let my tank get pretty empty before refuelling, but now I am worried it could be the transmission problem others have experienced. I have also noticed when I try to shift into drive, sometimes it is stiff/tight, and I have trouble getting it to go down to that final position of the gear shift on the dash. Anyone else familiar with that?
Sign In or Register to comment.