Are you a current or recent car shopper who bought an EV and then installed solar – or who had solar already, making the decision to go electric easier?
Are you a recent EV buyer (past 3 months) as a result of manufacturer incentives and dealer discounts on these vehicles, including year-end deals? Were you convinced to buy an EV after finding a good end-of-year deal, or due to uncertainty around which EVs will no longer qualify for full/partial EV tax credits in 2024? A national business reporter is interested in speaking with you. Please reach out to [email protected] by 12/15 if interested in sharing your story.

Oldsmobile Intrigue Problem Codes/TSBs

The patient is a 99 Intrigue with the 3.5 shortstar and 96k on ther odo. For the last two months I have been noticing the service engine light comes on every so often (one or two days). When I read the code it is a P306, indicating that there was a misfire detected in Cylinder #6. I usually clear the code right after.
This seemed to have started right after I replaced all the plugs. I replaced #6 plug again, and subsequently swapped the ignition modules between both banks, expecting the misfire to appear at Cyl #1 if it was a bad coil or module.

I have also run three tankfuls of three different injector cleaners, one was by Prestone, the other two were Techron.

Any ideas? Has anyone seen this behavior and cured it? thanks.


  • bayview6bayview6 Member Posts: 141
    First, I would NOT add any of those injector cleaners (except for the Chevron Techron) because they are very BAD for your fuel pump. I doubt that the misfire is fuel related since it is always cylinder #6.

    Did you change your sparkplug wires also??? That would be my prime suspect. Even if you did, the new wire might be bad.
  • gamefacegameface Member Posts: 9
    Is there a way to read the code on a service engine light without going to a repair shop?
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    Yes, auto-parts retailers typically do that for free. I've done that before at AutoZone.

  • 99tcandalero99tcandalero Member Posts: 6
    Thought I'd post a follow up since the problem finally appears to have been fixed. I pulled off the connector to the #6 fuel injector and cleaned it with an electrical cleaning spray. Then I worked the connector on and off to get the contact friction to clean itself. No problems for the last two weeks, (fingers still crossed).
  • amynicole84amynicole84 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. I feel like my car is chugging along and the service engine soon light come on and the computer pulls it up as it misfiring in cyl-5. So what do you suggest? I love the car but I am considering selling it because I have this problem every 3-4 weeks. Please help.
  • 99tcandalero99tcandalero Member Posts: 6
    Your number five cylinder is along the far (rear) side of the engine, the one closest to the driver. Once you rmove the top decorative cover, you will be able to see the connector going to the injector. remove the connector and clean it with some electrical contact cleaner spray. Then push it on andf off a few times to get rid of any internal corrosion. Also make sure there is no tension (tugging on the wire in any direction) on the wire once the connector is on. Good luck...
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I'm driving on I-78 in NJ on Saturday and I feel a "bump" under the hood then the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. Of course bad things come to mind since it is Christmas, I don't get paid for another two weeks, and oh yeah, I am 150 miles from home and it is 11:00 at night. Since the car was driving "normal" I kept going until i needed gas. I read up on the "Service Engine Soon" in my manual and it is the equivalent of the "Check Engine" light in many cars. Knowing that the light ws not flashing was a relief. I continued down the road and the light went off. Great! About 10 miles down the road, I feel that "bump" under the hood and the light comes back on. Go figure. All is fine the rest of the drive. The next afternoon I go to Advance Auto parts (they have the coolest tools to play with) and they do a free diagnostic check. The code P0101 came up which referes ot the "mass Air Flow (MAF)" or the "volume air flow (VAF)". They thougth I needed a new mass air flow sensor.

    given the code P0101, will replacing the mass air flow sensor solve my "Service Engine Soon" problem? I did notice my gas mileage was down about 2-3 mpg.

  • gmdrone1gmdrone1 Member Posts: 2
    P0101 code is indeed the mass airflow sensor. The Service Engine soon light is letting you know that the MAF sensor is about to take a hike. This happened to me about 2 months ago with 188K miles. Car would start, then it would not. Pushed it to the mechanic (to get codes read), got to the mechanic, turned the key, it started. I have no idea what the thunk is prior to the SES light coming on, but if your code reader says the MAF sensor is bad, replace it. I think Auto Zone charges about 89-100 dollars with the core return. It is really simple to install 2 screws, and a pigtail. All is well after that. Oh, don't forget to reset ECM by disconnecting battery for 10 minutes when done. Drive car 10 miles. If no light, then no codes set, problem solved. Oh wait, you say that now the radio doesn't work anymore...? Don't forget the Theft-loc radio codes before you disconnect battery!


  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    A code reader tells you what the ECM "sees", not always what is wrong.

    A code is merely a guide and not gospel.

    The MAF sensor may be bad, however you must first verify(unless you have lots of money to spend) a un-corroded electrical connection and the sensor. It is inline from the air box to the intake throttle.

    Verify that there are no leaks in the hose or at the air box or throttle. How's the air filter?. The MAF measures air going into the intake manifold. Any un-metered air (through a crack, PCV valve hoses etc etc) will create problems for the ECM not being able to figure out what the MAF is telling it.

    The bang may be the pcm dropping the car into default/limp mode as it cannot figure out what the sensors are telling it. (Or that the signal from the MAF disappears, for whatever reason)bad sensor? bad wiring? bad air flow?

    Also check for vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor. Faulty info from this guy can set a MAF code. This sensor monitors air pressure/elevation. Higher teh elevation, less oxygen. The ecm needs to know this and correlates all of the data from several sensors.

    The sensor is a fine tiny delicate piece of wire that can be contaminated if oil gets to it, sometimes a cleaner can be sprayed on it if your careful, although a dealer will probably never do this.

    You can change the sensor if you like, however, like all codes, there can be many reasons why they are set. Without properly diagnosing the output from the sensor relative to input provided to it, you are effectively guessing.

    reseting the ECM is done by erasing the ecm memory( ie erasing the code/freezeframe data stored in memory. Disconnecting the battery will not erase codes on OBD2 cars. post 1996.

    The code is "reset" by erasing the codes with a reader/scanner or by eliminating the cause of the error and going through the appropriate drive, start, or warm up cycles which is dependent on the code.
    What engine are you running?

  • blue_2000blue_2000 Member Posts: 14
    I agree. Don't just change the MAF sensor without checking some other things. I set and cleared the MAF code about 3 times over a year ago, and the problem went away by itself. Then recently, I set the code about 3 times within a week. The engine speed was dropping very low when braking to stop or turn, so I thought I should do something. I changed the MAF sensor (~$100) and the same code was set about 2 days later.

    We have Mitchell electronic manual at work, and it says to check for other things -
    Skewed or stuck Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
    Sticking throttle plate or deposits on plate or bore
    TPS connection short or poor connection
    Poor connection at PCM or sensor
    Misrouted or damaged wire harness
    Plugged intake duct or dirty air filter
    Water entering intake system and contaminating MAF

    I wish I would have checked this before spending the money.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Great information!!! I have 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine. The interestign thing is I drove to and from work (89 miles total) and the light was on. Tuesday morning I noticed about halfway to work that the light was not on. The Service Engine soon light is still off. So it could very well have been one of the other items that may have tripped the sensor.

    It has been extremely cold here (high of only 25 today, low of 0 last night). I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to look under the hood and get dirty. I'll check the hoses and air filter and some of the wiring. I don't feel like throwing money for a MAF when the air filter is dirty.

    Thanks Moonshadow.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    blue_2000 and moonshadow: the Check Engine light (code P0101 - MAF) hasn't been on for a two weeks now but I still want to check some of the items like the TPS and throttle body. How do you go about checking those items?
  • blue_2000blue_2000 Member Posts: 14
    Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I was waiting to see if my SES light would stay off. Update - I changed the MAF, car stopped trying to stall at stops, but SES light came on again, same code. I changed the air filter about 2 weeks ago, cleared the code and it has not returned so far.

    As for checking other things - It is probably a good idea to check the throttle plate and throttle body for carbon build-up. Take off the air intake tube, and check for black build-up. Manually turn the throttle plate and look inside. Use carb or choke cleaner and a rag to clean it up. Make sure the air intake tubes are both tight, too.

    To really check the TPS, you would probably need a mult-meter and need to know what the voltages are supposed to be at each pin on the connector. You might find that in a service manual.

    Hope this helps some.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    No problem with the response time. I'll clean the throttle body on Sunday. I checked the air filter before and it seemed clean. I think I'll just replace it. No harm in that.

    Mine had been off for a while and reared it's head this week. It was about 25-30 minutes into a 2 hour return trip and the light came back on. Stayed on for a couple of days and then went off again. My gas mileage is back up to 26-27 mpg (that's 95% highway at 75mph). I bet I could get to 29 or 30 if I slowed down a bit.

    Thanks blue
  • kslongkslong Member Posts: 1
    Please help me! My wife owns a 2000 Olds Intrigue and the accelerator is sticking quite badly. I want to clean the throttle body. Where is it and how do I clean it? I appreciate any and all help! Thanks, Kevin
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Follow the hose from the air cleaner assembly it goes right into the throttle body. Easy to remove with screw driver. Spray cleaner into the tb with the car running. You will have to rev the engine to keep it running. The accelerator cable is attached to the tb and can be pulled by hand.
  • jjtundrajjtundra Member Posts: 2
    I have cleaned the throttle body many times to solve this issue. There are three nuts holding the body on remove them, put rags under the body and clean the inside with carb cleaner and a rag. This will last about six months, also check your PVC valve.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    So I am doing some research for my friend who has a 2000 Olds Intrigue with the 3.5 litre V6 with 205k. Apparently, the lil bugger is throwing a code for camshaft position sensor, bank one. Autoparts place had the sensor for ~$30. My questions are
    1. where is the sensor
    2. has anyone done this replacement (and can offer some insight)?
    3. what else could trigger that code besides an actual bad sensor? Could it actually be a wear issue with the timing chain @205k?
    4. Anyone know of a good picture of the 3.5 with some circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what sensor is what?
    Thanks for your help.
  • nbnernbner Member Posts: 15
    Looking at the engine from the front of the car, the camshaft position sensor is located on the left side of the rear head. If you remove the coolant overflow container, you will be able to find it very easily. You will need a 10mm wrench or socket to remove the set bolt, then with a flat screw driver you can very gently pry it out. Just pop the new one in and tighten the bolt. Be careful when attaching the plug.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Thanks that really helped. We were checking it out this afternoon and I thought that's what it was, but it was great to have confirmation. It also helped to have the how to...I figured it couldn't be that bad but I wanted to make sure you didn't have to take half the car apart to get access. I think I am going to help him swap it out after work tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
    Thanks again.
  • pita1974pita1974 Member Posts: 2
    Secondary Air Injection System what is this and where is this. Please Help!!!

  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    This relates to the air pump that works when engine is cold to help reduce pollutants. Search the set of Intrigue forums for air pump and you'll find plenty of messages. I got mine replaced in my 2001 GLS last July... about $400 at the dealer. My brother's 1999 GLS had similar issues.
  • pita1974pita1974 Member Posts: 2
    Now I get the code P110 I wonder if the one code P110 is causing the other P410
  • dieselissydieselissy Member Posts: 34
    HI , I have a 2001 trigue, and drove by to Autozone and they hooked up the computer for free diagnostic.....mine came up with 2 codes, po-118 engine coolant temperature circuit hi input, and po-171 system too lean, bank 1?

    My car does not overheat, and if the second code for lean mixture requires a oxygen sensor, where the heck is it? I got under the car today, and could not find it. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!! still trying to find a manual that covers everything!!!!!! Issy
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    P0118 could be as simple as a bad thermostat.

    For P0171, check out Post number 477 in the "Oldsmobile Intrigue problems & solutions -Read ONly" forum.

    dtownfb, "Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions" #459, 10 May 2005 6:57 pm
  • samova1samova1 Member Posts: 3
    The Secondary Air System is an air pump and check valve located behind the drivers side headlight. Just pull up two plastic locks and the whole headlight assembly will come right out and you will see the Secondary Air Pump. This air pump is used to pump air into the exhaust manifold for a minute or so during start up to burn some of the excess hydrocarbons for a little emission control. It has no effect on the smooth running of the engine. The 1998 model did not even have a air pump. It was added to the later models to aid in passing the emission tests. No use wasting money on a fix. Just ignore it if you can. Now, how do I tell the computer to ignore it and turn off the SES light?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Unfortunately ignoring the problem isn't an option in some states. If the SES or "Check Engine" lights are on, in some states, they will not even perform the inspection until it is fixed since it likely has to do with emissions control. Best bet is check websites like or for discounted parts and get a friendly mechanic to install it for you. Or try a salvage yard.
  • danny1954danny1954 Member Posts: 3
    When I check my manual for code 1676 it states: ODMD Output 6 Circuit Faulty. Can anyone tell me exactly what that actually means and where to look for the problem.
  • samova1samova1 Member Posts: 3
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The solenoid on top of the charcoal canister needs to be replaced.
  • echlfanechlfan Member Posts: 1
    01 Intrigue has engine code P1258. Just had smog test done and failed with faulty gas cap. Replaced today. Can't find any more info on remaining engine code problem.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    According to my info P1258 is an overheating condition. It says the PCM starts shutting down cylinders in order to cool the engine. Does it run poorly? Is the temp gauge about where it normally is? Mine rarely goes above the 1/2 mark. If everything seems normal, disconnect the negative bat. terminal for a few minutes and reconect it again. This should clear the code, at least temporarily. If the temp. gauge is reading high, you have a cooling system that needs help.
  • dmbeyerdmbeyer Member Posts: 2
    The service engine soon light recently lit up my dash. The troubleshooting code came back at P0420 "Catalyst efficiency low bank 1. Anyone have experience with this code? Any ideas on how to resolve this problem?
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Has anyone had a problem with your dash lighting up like a Christmas Tree? Sometimes, usually after it's warmed up, the following lights stay on after starting it up: ABS, Service Vehicle Soon, Trac Off, BRAKE, PCS. I had a mechanic scan it when the lights were not on, and he said the only thing in the history was C0550, which is an electronic brake control module (EBCM) malfunction. He thinks this module is failing. Has anyone had one of these replaced? I know it will be expensive. The mechanic guessed about $600.

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Before he replaces the EBCM, have him check the wheel hub assembly. The ABS sensors are on the wheel hub assembly and sometimes the sensors fail causing those lights to come on. Unfortunatley, you have to buy the entire wheel assembly. They can be salty. Normally only the ABS, Service Engine soon, Trac Off lights come on with a bad wheel sensor. So your mechanic could be right but the wheel sensor is a very common repair on the Intrigue.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Thanks for your reply. I took it to the mechanic again today while the warning lights were ON. He scanned it and said it had the same code, C0550, EBCM malfunction. He said if the wheel speed sensor had a problem it would show up on his scanner. I called a dealer and they wanted $1014 for the part. After regaining consciousness, I told him never mind. I called a small independent parts shop and they said they could get the same dealer part for $715. I checked GM parts direct and it was $643. I'm not done yet. I still think I can find it cheaper. BTW, the p/n the dealer gave me is 88894772.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    This DTC identifies a malfunction within the EBCM. (electronic brake control module )

    Conditions for Running the DTC
    The ignition switch is in the ON position.

    Conditions for Setting the DTC
    DTC C0550 is set when an internal EBCM malfunction exists.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets
    If equipped, the following actions occur:

    * The EBCM disables the ABS/TCS/VSES and MSVA for the duration of the ignition cycle.
    * A malfunction DTC will set.
    * The ABS indicator turns on.
    * The TCS indicator turns on.
    * The PCS indicator turns on.
    * The Red BRAKE Warning indicator turns on.

    Conditions for Clearing the DTC

    * The condition for the DTC is no longer present (the DTC is not current) and you used the scan tool Clear DTC function.
    * The EBCM automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles.

    Had your mechanic tried clearing/reset the codes with his scanner? 'Cause a100 drive cycles may take a couple months depending on driving habits.

    I would for the fun of it, disconnect the battery and unplug then replug the connector going into the EBCM and then reconnect the batt.

    EBCM is under the hood right of the master cylinder in front of the box with all the brake lines.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Thanks Moonshadow. I think I will disconnect the battery. Right now I'm a little worried that replacing this module won't cure the problem, and them I'm out $700. My mechanic has a nice Snap-on scanner, but he said it won't do everything that the dealer scanner will do. He said it might be worth spending $100 at the dealer so they could do a functional test of the EBCM. If the problem continues, I might do that. I will still come out ahead since I'm saving $300 on the part.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Update on EBCM. I did some research and found a place that will rebuild the brake module for $200. I shipped it today. The company is called Modulemaster. They also sell them on ebay. The feedback is all positive. Their warranty is 5 years. I'll post again after I get it back and try it out. If it works, it will be a $1000 savings compared to the dealer part and labor.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Last update on Brake Module (I hope). I receicved the brake module back from ModuleMaster on Monday. So far everything is working normal again. All warning lights are out. They gave me a sheet of what was repaired. The main problem was "no communication". This module was a Bosch 5.3. If it fails again, I'll post back, but I think this was the right move. $200 plus shipping. This was a huge savings. I removed it and installed it myself. A little tough, but not too bad. I would like to see more places like this. Not good for the dealer parts business however.
  • garygargarygar Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the update on the brake module. You said "a little tough, but not too bad." Could you tell us how and what you removed and sent to Modulemaster. Was the car drivable while the module was out?

    How long did the repair take and how long to install the new part?

    Appreciate your help.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    The EBCM is attached to the Brake Pressure Modulator. It's behind the air cleaner housing on my 2002 Intrigue. On some earlier years I was told it is inside the car. I don't think I could exactly reiterate the step by step procedure I did, but basically I had to move some things out of the way, like the body brace (long black steel brace that helps keep the front end rigid), cruise control module, air cleaner housing (top and middle, but not the very bottom). You will need a T-20 torx screwdriver (Sears, AutoZone, etc.).

    Disconnect the battery (which I forgot to do, but no damage was done).
    Disconnect the large electrical connector in the front of the module (pull the white locking tab to the left about 3 inches).
    Remove the 6 torx-head screws (this is a little tough because the bottom two are hard to see. Also, if your torx screwdriver is too long it will make it difficult. Try not to drop the screws. I was lucky.
    Once the screws are out you can separate the module from the BPM by pulling it apart. It's a little tricky here because there are about 12 solenoid coils that you have to clear while pulling this thing away. The hardest part was putting it back on and trying to line them all up. I got frustrated and walked away for about 30 minutes, but I tried it again and it fell into place.
    One more thing: there is an electrical plug on the bottom of the module that you have to disconnect after you separate the module from the BPM.

    I think I made this sound tougher than it really is. If you've had any luck working on cars, then you can probably do it. If you are not very mechanically inclined, then don't do it. It took about 2-1/2 hours total. I could probalby do it again in an hour.

    Yes, the car is driveable just fine, but no ABS, just regular brakes. None of this requires opening the hydraulic brake lines.

    Modulemaster turned it around in 2 or 3 days, I can't remember. I used USPS Priority mail with insurance. It only took 2 days to get there and I live 2000 miles away.

    Modulemaster has lots of info on their website. Mine is working great so far and I would recommend them.

    What makes you think your EBCM is bad?
  • rudecatrudecat Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help with this? Reader showed TPS low voltage. Car runs, starts fine (after replacing fuel pump), but does not know it's time to shift from 1st to second gear. Does it point to replacing the sensor, or is there something else I should check? Vacume?
  • alen181alen181 Member Posts: 3
    took car to get check out code po741 tcc stuck off is that hard to fix al
  • taasmantaasman Member Posts: 1
    Got this code twice now. Cleared it, and it again came back. I know it relates to the evap system, what is common on a 98 Intrigue?? Gas Cap? Is there anything more common that sets this fault on these cars?
  • _dc__dc_ Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone describe the procedure to get the Theft-loc codes from the radio prior to disconnecting the battery?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Here's a very detailed post on the "gas cap" codes:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I changed the battery twice in my Intrigue and don't remember having a problem with the theft-loc radio controls. You may want to check the owner's manual or the driver sider door jam.
  • bigbuckeyebigbuckeye Member Posts: 4
    Anyone have any ideas ?? Just replaced the canister purge solenoid and all vacuum hoses...

    Still getting a p1676 code...canister purge solenoid...anyone have any ideas on what it might be ??

    I need to pass emissions test,and car wont pass with 'Service Engine Soon light on.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Since you put in a new one, first thing to check would be the connections. Is that the only trouble code you're seeing?
Sign In or Register to comment.