Oldsmobile Intrigue: General Care & Maintenance

dtownfb

I want to start changing the oil in my vehicles and have a question regarding the paper filter for the INtrigue. This is the first time I have seen this type of filter and I haven't bothered to look under the car yet at the oil filter. How does the paper filter work? Also is there a special tool needed for the oil change?

I have a 2000 3.5 Intrigue.

Thanks for any help.

coonhound

Removal of the filter requires the filter tool for an AC PF44 oil filter. You can purchase this along with the filter at Auto Zone. The filter is easily accessible, probably more so than a lot of canister filters.

The mounting base is of a composite with a very course thread and tends to bind with a moderate amount of friction. A T bar would be helpful to prevent a side thrust on the mounting, but I have never had to use one.

Anyway it's a piece of cake. Good luck:

dtownfb

Thanks coonhound. I'll make a trip to the auto shop this weekend....as long as this rain holds up.

indrgb

The Auto Zone in my neighborhood does not carry the AC oil filter (PF2129), but does have 2 others that fit. One is a Fram that looks cheap, but costs about $10. The other is a STP (I think) that looks exactly the same as the AC and costs about $4. I usually buy the AC at another parts store for $5. Next time I think I will try the STP.

Regarding the difficulty in changing the filter, I would have to say it's more difficult than the average canister. Maybe I have been spoiled by cars with filters that were more accessible. My 2 cents.

Don't forget it takes about 6 quarts.

Ron

gameface

Does anyone know how the overflow reservoir works in regards
to where is the relief valve/discharge point. It seems to
run to a tube behind the engine. Does this tube discharge
when the system overheats or just feed back to a different
part of the system?

evandro

There's not valve, the tank is just an expansion tank for when the coolant heats up it has somewhere to go to.

BTW, the tank is supposed to be half full always. It's got markings on the appropriate levels.

And do not mix coolant types: if it has orange coolant, do not add green coolant.

HTH

ricom560

Manual says replacing plugs at 100K recommended. I have 55K on my GL 3.5. Runs great but would like an opinion(S) as to whether new plugs would be beneficial for mileage etc. Mechanic working on BMW's and other foreign high end auto says he would recommend installation.

gameface

They are double platinum and should last close to 100K. I
changed mine at 95K and saw little effect on milage. Note,
that I got a price from Goodyear for the changeout and it
was 50% higher than the dealer.

Single platinum plugs last only 60K.

bennycheck

Replaced mine at 100,000 and the mileage and performance didn't change at all. Not that there was anything wrong with it in the first place. Just did it because the manual said to. My machanic said the plugs that came out looked pretty good considering they had all that wear on them. It's up to you weather you want to change them but if you do, make sure you use oem plugs if you want it to run it's best. I've heard horror stories from guys switching brands. The plugs also cost me around $10.00 a piece and the whole tune up was around $225.00. Good luck.

donp9

Replaced mine around 100Km's with Bosch double platinum and like bennycheck didn't notice much difference in performance or mileage. My only significant complaint about my 2000 GL has been the brake rotors. Original rotors were shot at 40Km's and the replacements were shot again after another 35Km's. It's not like I'm hard on the brakes however replaced them again with rotors from NAPA and so far so good. Stll really enjoy the car and hope to have it for some years to come.

bennycheck

Did you try the ceramic pads? I've got them all around and the rotors seem to last longer with them. They're also much quieter and the best part is no brake dust. Probably all I'll ever use from now on uless they come up with something better.

blue_2000

I asked this before, but got no reply.

The wipers on my 2000 GL will sometimes stop in the UP position when I have them in the low setting. If I turn them up to high, they move like normal.

Also, does anyone know a good way to keep the washer nozzles from freezing in the winter? I've had to pour hot water on them to thaw them out. It works, but is probably shocking the cold plastic.

evandro

Also, does anyone know a good way to keep the washer nozzles from freezing in the winter? I've had to pour hot water on them to thaw them out. It works, but is probably shocking the cold plastic.

When purchasing washer fluid, make sure that it's a winter mixture. Many places, particularly oil-change shops, use the cheaper summer mixture in the summer and there may still be some of it in your Intrigue's reservoir.

HTH

dtownfb

Definitley use the winter mix. Prestone sells a clear solution that you pour into the washer fluid for added protection. I use the winter washer fluid and put a half a bottle of the solution in as well. it splash mixes. You can buy it at Walmart or auto parts store.

gee271

I have the same problem, however, I cannot figure out the fix either. If you do,please let me know. thanks.
George

ketch

Just got the oil changed, and now cannot get the oil life monitor to reset (dash light stays on). I must admit some hassle with the process of having the key to ON, pushing the gas pedal and releasing slowly three times, all in 5 seconds. So far, I cannot get it to go off as in the past.
Any tricks? Am I doing this correctly????

mick1

pedal has to be FULLY pressed 3 times in 5seconds. I did it yesterday.

ketch

Well now I have tried about a dozen or so times, all fully pressing to the floor, and releasing, slowly as they say. What am I doing wrong, or perhaps the reset is broken?

moonshadow

I must admit some hassle with the process of having the key to ON, pushing the gas pedal and releasing slowly three times, all in 5 seconds.

Not sure if i read this right or not but only the pedal pressing is needed in five seconds, not the key bit.

Some things to verify: problems I've seen.
The key to ON not ACC.
After key on, wait a several seconds for dash lights self test to settle down.
When pressing down, be smooth, going to fast is just as bad as too slow.
Don't forget to let pedal up after the third push.
Wait several seconds for the change oil light to flash.

cheers

ketch

Thanks moonshadow, I retried several times exactly per your good descriptions, but no joy. I will keep trying over the next weeks, but I am thinking it somehow is stuck.
Anyone else here have this happen, and if so cost to fix (or why bother, as I typically go by the 3000 mile oil change interval anyways)?

dtownfb

I replaced my PCV this weekend. Very easy. And at $2.50 for the part, I may change it more often.

When i pulled the old one out, the larger end was pretty snug in the hole. When i put the new one in, it waas not as snug and could be pulled out with little effort. Will the engine cover be enough to keep the valve in place? Does the engine sort of "suck" the valve in place? Changing the coolant next weekend.

ketch

Well, after a good two dozen tries, the damn OLM light went out after I was able to reset it. Must have had that magic touch on try number 24! LOL.

dtownfb

Congratulations! It normally takes me 2 or 3 tries to reset my OLM. The key is waiting until after the lights settle down after you turn the key ot ON.

moonshadow

Very weird. Glad to hear that. Sometimes persistence pays off :sick:

I remember reading up on a note in a Gm service bullitin about OLM light not resetting after following the proper reset procedure.
Although this note was for another vehicle, a truck, I think. Not sure if the same procedure has any effect on other models, I thought I would mention it.

Paraphrasing: due to bad memory
It said that, after a failed reset attempt, to cycle the key 15 times (off to On) and the oil monitor would reset.

take care.

mick1

may be the oil change light bulb finally burnt out

mick1

changed mine at 100K, the new AC Delco fit snug, probably could have lasted 200K on the original.

dtownfb

Mine had a "burnt oil" color over most of it. Definitley needed changing. The new one fit snugly but I was surprised by how easily it moved in and out of the hole. the old required a really good tug. i confirmed that they were both the same number.

It's been two wweeks since i changed it and no "check engine" light has come on. My gas mileage is still 25-27 mpg.

dtownfb

Now that I have worked a bit under the hood of my Intrigue, I'm feeling a bit adventurous. I know the fuel filter hasn't been changed for a while. I know it is located on the driver's side in front of the fuel tank. how easy or hard is it replace the fuel filter?

blue_2000

The end with the plastic clip is easy to remove. On my 2000 GL, the threaded end was siezed onto the fuel line. I couldn't get it myself, so the mechanic ended up cutting it off. I think the filter is on the driver's side, under the driver's seat or nearby.

Be prepared for the gas to spray out when you remove it.

cob

Gas won't spray out if you relieve the fuel pressure first. Can be done 2 ways. One by pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the car until it stalls. Other way is to releive pressure at the valve on the fuel rail under the hood.

yammaxim700

I need to change the plugs in my Intrigue. Where are the plugs located? Are they under the plastic housing? I haven't had much luck locating them.

mick1

The car doesn't have plugs. It runs on direct gaseous atomization to all 6 cylinders.

bayview6

What makes you think you need to change the plugs?

yammaxim700

It seems to be missing a bit, but also the owners manual mentions at 100,000 miles to inspect the sparkplug wires and change sparkplugs. I'm at about 116k now and need to do that.

Chad

yammaxim700

Why does the manual say to change the plugs at 100,000 miles?

Chad

bayview6

Chad, be sure to change both the spark plugs and the wires! If you are having trouble finding the plugs probably best to have a mechanic do this work, especially since you only need to do it every 100k miles and today's engine compartments are so jam packed.

Like everything else mechanical, heat and pressure eventually degrade their materials. I'm surprised that they last so long!

cob

If you have the 3.5 there are no plug wires. The plugs are directly under the coils which are right on top of the cylinders. The 3 coils on each side are attached together and there is a small wire harness connected to them. Remove the 6 bolts and the coil pack can be lifted off the cylinder head. There is a rubber boot with a metal coil spring inside that attaches from the coil to the plug. The boots just pull off with pliers. The whole process to change 6 plugs takes about 30 minutes. Not worth paying the dealer to do. Make sure you get platnum tipped plugs as a replacement so they last another 100,000 miles.

yammaxim700

Thanks for the info. I thought they might be under there, but hadn't got that far yet. I appreciate your help.

Chad

coonhound

I just replaced the plugs, yesterday, in my 2000 GX at 75,000 miles.
Surprise! I wanted to use OEM parts so purchased AC-Delco plugs, but it came with NGK platinum plugs and are specified in the owners manual. I returned the AC-Delco and got the proper NGK plugs.
Make sure that the engine is cooled down before removing the plugs or you may strip out the threads in the head due to galling.
The silicone boots were not extremely difficult to remove, but I would recommend a big 90 degree offset needle nose pliers. Or GM has a special tool for removing the boots.
The cassette with the coils lifts up easily after removing the 7 mounting studs.
At 75,000 miles the plugs were found to be in good condition and I didn't really need to spend $10.00 each for new plugs. But I have heard the horror stories about the plugs being frozen in place. But probably they were trying to remove them from a hot or warm engine.
Be sure and put anti seize on the new threads.

azn46

How do you get to the ISS to lube it with grease?
Do you have to go under the car? Can I do it with out jacking it up? I looked up the directions posted before but I'm still a bit unclear about how to do it.

Any help would be great, thanks.

nbner

Get under the dash and pull down the plastic tubing that surrounds the intermediate shaft and you can see where the ISS slides together inserted the “straw” extension from a spray can of lithium white lube into the hollow steering shaft and spray a fair amount of grease down it. (The factory lube procedure is basically very similar to this) Afterwards take the car for a test drive and all the clunking noise is GONE. The whole greasing operation took less than five minutes and can be periodically done without any effort or special tools.

azn46

Can I use lithium grease? What is white grease?

azn46

I used some orange colored grease. It was pasty. I hope that, that works ok. I didnt see any white grease at the store.

Thanks

dtownfb

Use lithium grease.

azn46

I did use lithium grease, however, I had to use a grease gun and it did not come in a spray can. It was like a caulking gun. I just oozed out the grease in to the area. Did I do this right? How much should I put in.

dtownfb

i used the lithium grease in the spray can. The key thing is how does the steerin gfeel? I felt a noticably smoother steering after I was done.

azn46

I'm gonna try to put more down there, I didnt put very much the first time around.

It doesnt feel any smoother at the moment however.

yammaxim700

Thanks for your help with locating the plugs. Got to them last night and changed them in about 45 minutes. After 116,000 miles on them they didn't look as bad as I thought they would, however one of them was completely burned up. It runs great again.

Chad

di99

This is a new one, and really just trivial, but has anyone figured out how to clean the behind the (interior)brake light in the Intrigue? You know, back window area??
I have dog hair and 3 yr old bug parts (sorry to be so graphic)lodged in there and looks as though the only way to get in there to clean it out, is to disassemble behind the whole back seat area.
This is just another example of how GM made everything so difficult on this car...can't easily change the battery, air filter, nothing.
Thanx anyone

dtownfb

I would use the lithium grease in the spray can. It comes with a long "straw" to fit into tight areas. And it allows you some flexibility to get lower into the rubber sheath. I think I put at least a third of the can in there. I moved the "straw" around to get to as many spots as possible.

mick1

The headlight bulbs are very easy to replace so there's a fix you can do. I have found the intrigue to be a very well put together car as I have 153,000 miles and no squeaks or rattles