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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues



  • kizersozekizersoze Posts: 2
    This is a brand new problem for this vehicle. It won't start unless it's being jumped in which case, it starts just fine. I've cleaned the battery terminals and swapped out the starter (starter and solenoid are one unit.) still have the same issue. When failing, several clicks and chaotic behavior from the interior lamps. Tried tapping solenoid while turning key, no luck, which is why I bought a new starter. Not it. Any ideas?
  • hadadihadadi Posts: 1
    i just bought a second hand chrysler grand voyager 3.3 grand se.
    the next day in the morning it would not start i used my starter cable and the neighbour started it with his car battery,it took a few tries before it worked. after that it worked the whole day without a glitch.
    next day worse, i try to start it battery is dead again?
    i tried to start it turned it of completely after unsuccesfully having tried and then al kinds of strange things happen while turned of. the window sweepers front and back start sweeping without having been turned of i hear a strange fast clicking electrical sound and the headlight seems to be moving up and down at the same time and the clock went on and of. when finally a neighbour came to jumpstart the car again the problem stopped. day 3, oops there it goes again, i am now charging the battery or trying and the charger goes from 0 to full every 30 seconds. can you please help?

    ps. when trying to start the all the dial go carzy and turn around
  • ronald77ronald77 Posts: 1
    I was driving my 93 Grand Voyager through an intersection 4 days ago when the minivan suddenly lost all power in the middle of the intersection and I was able to coast to the curb corner on the the other side.

    The instrument pane went dead, the radio went dead, the minivan would not start using the ignition key. The interior lights could be turned on using the dimmer switch.

    I called the AAA for assistance in towing the minivan home about 4 miles away. While waiting, my daughter said she smelled a burnt smell. I open the hood and could not find anything obvious. I checked the wires and the fluid levels and they seemed to be okay. I could not find any source of burning.

    While waiting for assistance, I then checked all the fuses in the fuse box and found all of them to be okay.

    When the tow driver came, he asked what the problem was and I explained to him what the problem was. He asked me to try and start the engine with the key. No response. He then thought it might be a dead battery and tried to jump the battery. No response. He then came out with a voltage meter and tested the batter and said that the batter was good, 13.3 volts. He felt that the problem is electrical near the battery pole.

    Well, we were towed home. My mechanic neighbor and his family had arrived at his home but he was not at home. I opened the hood and re checked the engine compartment and found a red insulated wire that had two tiny holes in it. I felt the wire and found that you could feel one side of the wire with wire in it then there was a break or gap, then you could feel more wire through the insulation. The wire was located in a thick bundle of wires on the engine driver's side.

    I studied my two manual, Chilton and Hayes, and felt that it might be one of those fusible links. I had to use a magnifying glass to look at Chilton's wiring diagram for the year (93) 3.0 Grand Voyager. I looked at Hayes electrical wiring diagrams and didn't find to much useful information other than how to replace the fusible link and to be sure that the negative pole of the battery was disconnected.

    The next morning I had my mechanic neighbor checked what I had discovered and he agreed that that was the fusible link wire and that I should replace the wire with the same amperage or gauge with of 10 amps. He told me that there was art to solder the wires together.

    I started to read as much information about this problem as the manual had said that you should not rely on fixing the fusible link only without searching for the underlying cause. I had asked my mechanic friend if there was any computer codes that could solve the problem as to the source. He said the problem could be anywhere and that you would need to know which circuit was involved by removing each fuse to see if that would isolate the source.

    Since that was a much bigger project than I could do without having some special instruments and lacking a detailed electirical diagram for the model year, I decided to consider looking for professional advice. I spoke with my new pastor as he had some recent electrical work done with replacement of an alternator how did he like the result with the new mechanic. He was pleased with the results.

    So I decided to get the fusible link link from NAPA in our town and also get the butt wire connectors as well. I had planned to solder the wires but the parts person said that you could use the butt wire connectors with just as good result and to use electrical tape as well.

    I decided following this to visit my pastor's new mechanic for a consultation. I presented my problem to him and wanted to know if he had any experience with a fusible link problem. He told me that sometimes a circuit could be over loaded for some reason and the problem self correct and not occur again. He asked if I had used the air conditioning. I told him that the AC was not working for years and we never used it due to a microscopic leak in the evaporator that could not be fixed without incurring a large cost. I told him of my plan to repair that link and asked him if I could bring the minivan in for evaluation. He said if the fusible link solves the problem there would not be any computer codes available as there was no check engine light that came on. He said if there was a recurrence in a few days or several weeks to bring the minivan in and they would check it out. He said if the problem reoccured several months later, it would be more difficult to pin point the source.

    I re studied the available electrical diagrams on the two manuals this evening. I noticed that someone had mentioned going to the library and looking at the electrical diagram on the Mitchell's manual. I may just do that before installing the fusible link.

    I was even thinking of going to my old mechanic who had worked on the car for many years and asking his opinion.

    I would like to have some suggestions on this challenge that I am facing as to what anyone would suggest solving this problem?


  • Finally I find kindred spirits! My 1997 Dodge Caravan goes thru this sequence:
    abs and check engine lights come on, gas gauge, odometer, speedometer,'etc
    do not work. After a few days the ABS light goes off, the check engine light stays
    on and the gauges pop back on. Normally after I drove the car for a while the
    engine light would go off and everything would be normal. Then the cycle
    would start over. The cycles seem to be coming more often now. I wrote down the
    sequence and gave it to a Chrysler service advisor who showed no interest, charged
    about $90 to use computer diagnostics and told me a controller board MIGHT help.
    My gas gauge pings and fluctuates sometimes with the sequence but not every time.

    I also have the wayward wipers that I have seen several dodge/chrysler owners write in about at several websites. They sometimes have life of their own but
    especially like to swipe at least 3 times when I use the turn signal. Lately they
    have not been wanting to shut off and sometimes stop at the sides of the windshield instead of nesting at the bottom.

    I am really sorry that Chrysler products have these types of aggravating frustrating
    idiosyncrasies because the van drives, runs and rides great otherwise.

    As I have been reading at several sites I have found that many owners seem to
    have these and similar problems and there seem to be as many solutions as
    there are drivers with problems....replace the clockspring, replace the BCM,
    check the fuses, check the wiring, do a complete re-set....what should we do
    to solve these problems,,which one is the best, simplest and longest lastng

    I did read at one website that an owner of a 1996 caravan was having the same
    abs light on/gauges off problem and he said he found a fuse in the fusebox under the hood and #1 from left to right was broken.

    If anyone can give a consistent affordable fix to these problems (short of trading the dodge in for a toyota) I am sure all of us kindred spirits would love to hear it..

    Sorry to go on so long but I am just so relieved to find out I am not the only one
    with this quirky set of dodge problems.

    In closing I have but one final word..HELP.
  • snolove29snolove29 Posts: 1
    i dont have a sollution but my mom is having a similar problem. i was hoping you found a solution and could help us out. she has already spent hundreds trying to find out. it just dies out for no reason we can see,and lights flash and there is clicking. but starts instantly with a jump.
  • My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
  • lwoody1lwoody1 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It's happening the same way you described it. The ABS light, engine light, gauges, dashboard and even the windshield wipers are going crazy!!! Did you ever find the problem? If so, PLEASE help!!!!!!
  • Sorry its not more dramatic than this but simply get a new battery. That's all I did and everything cleared right up.
  • nca2knca2k Posts: 1
    My 2001 T&C will not start sometimes, when I turn the key all of the lights etc. work but the starter just clicks. I turn the key on anf off and it will start sometimes it takes a little longer then other times, this is not everytime just at random intervals. The last time it did it on the dash where the air bag light comes on when you start it a "DONE" light came on. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on.
    Thanks in advance.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    What you're describing is a classic failure mode for the Nippon Denso starter used in something approaching half the cars built in the world (including these vans). While the starter itself is extremely robust and well designed, the contacts inside the integrated solenoid get scored and carboned up and need to be replaced every so many thousands of starts. Most folks opt for a new, or a remanufactured (as good as new), or a rebuilt (not as good as new but still pretty good) starter. That said, there are a number of companies that sell the Denso contacts for something less than twenty dollars, so if you're at all handy, you can fix the issue very inexpensively.

    Best regards,
  • Had spark plugs changed after that had issues with van reving up for no reason. Van will try to accelerate while trying to stop (no fun) and when driving the rmps jump up and a/c cuts on and off. Took to 1st mechanic who changed a gasket. No help. Took to 2nd mechanic changed some part but no help. Does anyone have ANY idea at all? Cannot afford another mechanic. Please give me ideas.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Mechanics that throw parts at a problem don't qualify to be called "mechanics". You need to find someone who will do a proper diagnosis of the problem (which could range from vacuum leaks, sensor failures, and computer problems) and fix only what's broken. Unfortunately the only way to properly determine what's wrong will be to hire a competent mechanic, and that's going to cost you some money.

    Best regards,
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 13,369
    That is my thought as well. Since the problem started right after spark plugs were changed (which is an incredible pain in the rear!), I suspect a vacuum problem. Several vacuum hoses must be disconnected/moved aside in order to reach the plugs on the back side of the engine. I broke a very well-aged hose for the PCV system on my van when changing the plugs. Since it was my van, though, I had the incentive to replace the hose rather than ignore it.... ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I don't know if you had a reply to this or not, but I have a 96 Voyager, and the same thing happened to me and all it was, was a bare wire that was touching the engine. It was the little cluster of wires that are on the right side of the engine, Between the battery and the engine. I guess thats a good description of where it is.
  • I saw the other discussion on here about the air bag light, but saw no real good responses except for the instrument cluster replacing thing. My thing also is I keep having to mess with the fuse box under my dash to get my turn signals to work. Sometimes they will work without a problem for a while, then other times I just have to keep messing with that fuse box. I've had it for like 2 years and almost got 210,000 miles on it. So if someone could help me it would be appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 13,369
    The fix for the air bag light and inoperable horn is to replace the clock spring in the steering wheel.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • The other night, I dragged the bumper exiting a parking lot. Since that time my instrument cluster does not work (speedo, fuel gauge, tach, odometer, etc.) the back-up sensors are also out. Also the main brake lights do not work. The van is equipped with a factory installed 7 wire trailer plug as well, which is what dragged. Upon investigation I found that the wires leading to the plug were bare and some were crossed. I also found the green lead (I assume it is the ground) was broken. I repaired the green wire and isolated the others, but to no avail.

    Any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 13,369
    Have you checked your fuse box? The crossed wires may have blown one (or more)....
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Yes. I didn't see any, but I'm also not sure which one it would be.
  • My '97 GC ES runs well, but tonight, the lights will not go off. Pulled in the driveway, put it in park, and removed the key. The dinging sound started (lights on), and would not quit. The interior lights, plus the headlights remained on, even after the door is closed. The dinging stopped, but the lights remained on. I disconnected the battery, and then reconnected it-no effect. I left it disconnected tonight so that I could get it to the mechanic in the morning. Anyone have any ideas? And yes, the doors are all tightly closed. Thanks in advance.
  • Problem solved; somehow, the dimmer switch had been rolled to "on". $15.00 later (they tightened back up the battery cable), and we are back in business. Whoo!
  • ac blinking lights wont stop
  • I had the same problem, I ended up just unhooking it altogether. Then eventually went and bought a panel from the junk yard.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 13,369
    did you recently disconnect the battery or have a dead battery? If so, the A/C system needs to be reset using a diagnostic process. I think, if you start the van, then press and hold the top and bottom buttons on the left side (I cannot remember which they are... the rear wiper and the mist buttons?), it should run through a diagnostic process that takes about 30-45 seconds. All of the buttons will blink regularly during this process. If everything checks out, they will all shut off once it is finished. If not, the lights on the left will blink out a code to tell you what did not succeed.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • kgetzkgetz Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact same problem with my 02 Grand Caravan. Except with mine, it won't start either! :lemon:
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 13,369
    It doesn't start.... but what does it do? In other words, what happens when you try to start it?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • My wife 2000 Chrysler Voyager Left turn signal & left harzard light does work , Replaced the left side unit
  • My wife 2000 Chrysler Voyager Left turn signal & left harzard light does work , Replaced the left side unit
  • ndissndiss Posts: 2
    Our 2002 GC seemed to be holding on to a low battery, however, the van would still start and seemed to be fine once started and the instruments came to life. The other day my wife started the van and it started and then quit. She did it again and it started and then stopped on its own. She tried this three to four times and the van would stop after starting and then it would not even engage the starter. Some may say it's the battery, but I don't think a bad battery would have enough juice to crank over a cold engine and then not have enough electricity left to send to the alternator to excite it. This being said, I tried a different battery from our other car and no luck, no starter engagement, however the radio, instrument cluster and heater fan seem to work fine. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I should start looking without driving a new vehicle under the antenna?
    Thanks, ndiss
  • hello,
    The interior lights stay on from the moment i unlock the doors.
    After locking the doors they only stop after 15 minutes (security)
    outside lamps function properly but the chime is ringing when i open the door even if they are shut down.
    Only the rear interior lights stay on, the front interior function properly but dont turn on automatically when i unlock the doors.
    Well if you have some helping ideas they are welcome ;)
    You should have your charging system check. Your alternator or starter may be bad. I would start there first.
    You may want to have your door jamb switches checked, they could cause the chime to sound and interior lights to stay on because the switch thinks the door is still open.
  • Did you ever figure out what was going on with your lights? my 1999 model is doing the exact same thing.

    Thank You.
  • Replaced complete fuse box! position on fender allows corrosion
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi, I've got an 2001 Caravan with the same impairment. I've got no signals, fuel guage, tachometer, speedometer, or heat guage. The centre display cluster will light up, go completely out, and after a short while will come back on until I touch a turn signal. I'm curious to know if you ever resolved your situation as I am in need of any suggestion. Thx.
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi, I've got an 2001 Caravan with the same impairment. I've got no signals, four ways,fuel guage, tachometer, speedometer, or heat guage. The centre display cluster will light up, go completely out, and after a short while will come back on until I touch a turn signal. I'm curious to know if you ever resolved your situation as I am in need of any suggestion. Thx.
  • randy79randy79 Posts: 2
    Hi, I've got an 2001 Caravan with the same impairment. I've got no signals, four ways,fuel guage, tachometer, speedometer, or heat guage
    . I fix it in the fuse box is on the hook, the cable going into the box
    is filled with corusion and clean w-4 and a brush.

    Es el cable que va hacia la caja de fusible esta al lado de la bateria la caja de fusible y es el cable que se conecta a la caja de fusible limpialo con w-4 y un sepillo y quitale toda la corrusion
  • randy79randy79 Posts: 2
    limpiale el cable que va hacia la caja de fusible ,tiene un conector limpialo
  • jwoxjwox Posts: 1
    First I am new here so I'll do my best. My 96 GC has been great up until now. My wife said last week there was a buzzing sound coming from the light switch. She moved the dimmer up and down and it quit. Then 4 days later she drove it to a store about 2 miles away and when she came out the was nothing. No lights, radio, nothing. So I thought the battery died. Went down and looked at the fuse box under the hood, tapped, with my finger, on a few relays and then I touched the low beam fuse and the light under the hood lit up. She started it up and i follow her home, but I notice that when she turned the lights on the brake light stay on and when you push on the brakes the park lights light up? Now I think it is a bad ground but I can not find anything wrong with it. Even checked the wiring for the trailer.
    The battery was bad, replaced, rolled over the fuse box and cleaned the connections under there. Any thing else I should try b4 taking it in?

    Thanks for any help

  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    On the 2001 Caravan the engine compartment fuse box is called an IPM (Intelligent Power Module).It rolls over to an upside down position after you remove the battery. The IPM has 9 plug ins' from the wiring harness. I too removed each plug and cleaned any grey or green scaling on the pins and blade terminals. I put everything back - packing vaseline (non conducting) grease into the connections. I also had to replace the front control module which plugs into the end of the IPM. The front Control module replacement resolved my electrical and lighting problems for the 2001 model. It's a $ 300.00 component so it may be a lot less for a used one from a salvaging yard.
  • My 03 GC AWD has twice experienced a total electrical failure while driving in the last week. The power interruption only lasts a moment, during which the exterior and interior lights and instrument cluster go dead while driving, before normal electrical operation resumes. I'm thinking a loose/corroded/bad connection somewhere. Any thoughts on how to diagnose this intermittent problem? What steps would you take? I'm hoping to fix the source issue before getting stranded somewhere unpleasant.

    Historical info: no custom modifications to the van; 100% stock. Newer battery, about 18 months old. 100,000 miles. Severe Maintenance Schedule followed in terms of fluid/filter/ignition replacement.

  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    The steps are, remove battery, unlatch clasp on fender side of IPM (Intelligent Power Module), roll IPM over to access the underside where the wiring harness 9 plugs are connected. Remove the plugs by unlocking and sliding the red colored tabs. Use 2 slot screwdrivers with bent tips for leaverage to pry up plugs evenly or channel locks to pull off plugs.Inspect for corrossion and clean the terminal blades and pin connectors.
    The terminals on the harness side plugs actually come apart for proper cleaning so pay observation on how the colored wires are arranged in their reseptacles when putting them back together. The plug terminal with the heaviest wires situated on the bottom corner is the main power feed and may be the primary culprit so clean that one first and see if it corrects your problem.
    Use petroleaum jelly (Vaseline) which has no minerals present and is non conductive and moisture preventative for re-attaching the plugs.
    If a thorough cleaning of these components does not resolved your issue be prepared to spend some money. The electronic Front Control Module (brain) which attaches onto the end of the IPM (with 4 machine screws and 2 hidden metal strip clamps) may have issues. This FCM may need replacement to solve your problem. The IPM may have internal corrossion as well and may require replacement.
    In Canada these are dealer service parts only and there is no warranty whatsoever on these electronic components. The IPM and FCM are over $300 each. A dealer is going to charge close to $ 90 an hour. They will tell you the job should take about an hour if everything goes well but be prepared to pay up to 3 hrs. on labour. I took my time and it took me 3 hrs. to clean and change the IPM and FCM before my issues became resolved. - Good Luck!
  • Thanks for taking the time to reply, pmary. I'll start the troubleshooting this weekend, hoping to find repairable corrosion as outlined in your description, or a loose ground. I priced just the wiring harness and found it cost $1,600. Cute.
  • Nothing. No smoking gun to be found. I checked the harnesses and the two ground connections, and found them all securely attached and lacking any corrosion/contamination. I'm thinking either it's one of the modules or possibly split insulation somewhere in the harness. Either way, without a consistent failure I'm going to be challenged finding the root cause. I haven't seen a recurrence of the electrical loss, so at this point I'm going to have to wait until the problem allows for diagnosis while in a failed state.

  • jimmy92jimmy92 Posts: 1
    there is no page three. did the same test but ac and rec light still blinking can u repost the cool down method....
  • My 1999 Plymouth Voyager is having a charging system problem. I have replace both the battery and the alternator, as well as checked the fusable link. My battery light is still on, and the battery does not charge. Does anyone know what the problem is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You have an EVR system (Electronic Voltage Control) which means your Powertrain Control Module acts like the voltage regulator. You'd have to have diagnostics done to see if your PCM is defective in this case. Of course, depending on where you bought your replacement alternator, in some cases they are bad right out of the box---like in those big chain stores---so you cannot assume your 'new' alternator actually works.
  • johnroeljohnroel Posts: 1
    I own a Chryler Gr Voyager 1997, 2.4L which has been having some electrical problems with a combinaion of the Central Door Locks, Interior Lights, Door Adjar going ON and OFF whenever I hit a bump in the road or break or turn a sharp corner.

    I have already checked for lose wiring cabling on the driver-side door as well as behind the steering column, but everything seems to be tightly connected.

    Any suggestions as to where the problem may be hiding?
  • transam3transam3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 t&c that when i turn on the head lights the brake lights come on also. Any ideas
  • rick1953rick1953 Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hello Everybody - I have an electrical problem with my grand caravan. It began a few days when I came out from a store it would not start. When I turned the key the dash lights came on, but when I turned it to start I heard like a dull "thunk" from somewhere and the dash lights went out and there was no click or anything. It seems to me like it could be the starter relay but I have no idea where it might be. In my younger days it was easy to spot it and you could test it by shorting it with a screwdriver but nowadays I know I might blow up the whole thing using old "technology." If anyone has a clue gimme a holler! Thanks.

    p.s. The battery is just a few months old and the connections are clean and solid.
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