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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues

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Comments

  • The rubber seals on the doors have become worn and soft and not holding tight, making the vehicle think the doors are open. I taped shims onto the door frames. (96 g.c. with 256,000.
  • If you look beside your battery, there is a plastic retanglar box with a removeable top cover that pops off, under that cover on the backside of the piece there is a diagram of each fuse and relay listed.

    the starter relay should be on the driver side of relays, beside the a/c relay, it is best to pull it out and use the a/c relay in it's place, same as I had to do to my voyager to check and see if it will start with that relay instead of the original starter relay you currently had there. If it does start then most likely will need a new starter relay, which can be picked up for less than $20 from a parts store. If it still does not start, then it will most likely be something to do with the starter.

    Now I have been viewing some of the earlier posts about bad contacts in the starter, causing problems with the van not wanting to start and sometimes it does, usually mine will not start if it is cold weather, I guess because of the metal shinking or something to that effect, but will definately be checking into new contacts for my starter and i really hope that will fix my not starting issue.
  • I did notice that some have posted about the instrument cluster not working sometimes or even to the effect that it goes haywire.

    I myself had checked out some of the other forums and had come across a topic that showed what exactly is wrong with the instrument clusters and it has to do with the cluster having a certain type of solder used to solder the contact points to the cluster of the positive terminal.

    As the solder ages and heating and cooling of the solder points, can create a crack in the solder and thus cause insufficient voltage or none at all, and in the end result in the cluster not responding correctly or having only half the dash displaying accurate readings.

    if even people ask, i will try to find the original post that I found, but have this in mind when you do that unless you know how to do electronics or soldering, it would be best to take your cluster to a professional electronics person, like a t.v repairman or a computer technician, since they work with soldering often in their line of work.
  • Hi, I'd like to try your shim solution as I have that 'Door Open' warning light problem too.

    But I need to find out exactly where the sensor is located. Is there a drwing or picture somewhere?

    Regards,
  • porcherporcher Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Dodge grand caravan. Remote key, AC, Back Windshield Wiper, Night light are not working. I also have brakes and abs warnings on but nothing wrong with the brakes.
    I replaced the fuse block and still have the exact same problems.

    Any suggestions ?

    Thank you kindly
  • The dash issue is the instrument cluster. there's a circuit board that has soldering points that come undone so to speak. you can replace with a junk yard part. its not that hard. and you will be fine.
  • vrv44vrv44 Posts: 1
    Starter went on a 2004 grand caravan. Has anyone ever heard of a corodded positive cable to the starter frying the wiring harness? Not sure exactly what's going on here, talking to the mechanic tommorow.
  • ljbennettljbennett Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, and for the first year we had it, it worked beautifully. About 18 months ago it started acting up. The entire cluster freaks out, the air flow stops, the radio shorts out, the headlights flicker continuously, and the warning lights come on and the van makes that 'ding' noise (like when you leave the key in). Sometimes it feels like the engine pulls a bit, not sure how to explain that one.

    We have replaced the BCM, we have replaced the alternator twice, we have replaced the battery twice, and we have replaced the starter once. The van has been to 2 different Dodge dealerships (in 2 different states), 2 run-of-the-mill mechanics, and an electrician. We have sunk a LOT of money into this thing and still have no answers.

    We replaced the battery again in March, and it wasn't driven for 3 days and the brand new battery was dead. The sliding doors don't lock, and they won't open with the key or the buttons, you must open them manually. The back hatch is super finicky on when it will open. Every time we take it to be worked on, it seems to run fine for a few days and then starts freaking out again. When we first had the problems, we took it to a dealership and they could find no problems so the manager said it was probably the BCM. I took his word and replaced that. It ran perfectly fine until the day after the part warranty expired (ain't that the way it always goes?). We were weeks away from a military cross-country move at that point and had to try and figure it out. It somehow fixed itself and we made it from TX to OK just fine. Drove around in OK for a few weeks no problems. Made it from OK to OH just fine and 3 days after we got to OH it started acting up again. The dealership here looked it over, charged us and told us there was nothing they could do since they can't replicate the problem. The electrician had it for almost 2 weeks and couldn't find anything.

    I have no idea what to do...please help!!!!!

    (Here's a link to a video my husband took of it happening while he was driving)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9gKZBeGZIU&feature=channel_video_title
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    If you havn't already; remove battery, unlock side tabs of the power distribution box to flip over to an upside down position. Unlock the reseptacle tabs by sliding red bars and take 2 slotet screwdrivers with bend ends to pry off and remove connectors from the wiring harnesses. Look for corosion and clean connections. Aluminum wire terminals corrode to a greyish scale color. Start with the thickest connector which is the main power in. Scrape all opposite connections clean and pack with (non carbon based) petroleum jelly to prevent moisture contamination. Reconnect all 9 reseptacles and battery. It took me 2 hours to perform this on my 2001 Caravan. My instrument panel and guages returned back to normal. Take your time and be very patient and you should be fine.
  • Ever since the heat wave started on the East coast, my radio will work for a while and then freeze up (the hotter it gets, the sooner it freezes up). None of the buttons work, but the display is still on, just frozen. When I turn off the car, the display stays on instead of shutting down. I have to disconnect the battery to get the radio to shut off to stop it from draining the battery. Yesterday, the radio froze up with out me turning it on for the first time (only the clock was displayed). Any idea what is happening and is there a fuse I can pull to disable the radio without disabling anything else? I looked in the fuse box in the engine bay, but didn't see a fuse for the radio.
  • jlnxxjlnxx Posts: 1
    that sounds like a recalled issue that i had. it was a clock spring in the steering column (abs light with no brake issue is the sign). take it to a dealership and it might be free to fix. the door sensors also dont last long that might be the interior light issue, if it still doesnt work after the other fix.
  • kent75kent75 Posts: 1
    My Grand Caravan turns over just fine but makes no effort to start. Was running with no problems. Driving and all of the sudden would not go over 30 mph then died. Checked fuses for fuel pump and all OK. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • I have had my fuel pump relay go bad as well as many other relays. beside the battery there is a long black box open the cover find the relay( small black box in there) and replace it with another one that sounds unimportant for testing if it starts you need a relay if not???? I have found most of my problems including a fried transmission was bad relays.Good luck
  • Ok I have a 98 voyager and it has a lot of electrical problems but 1 that is bothering me now is after re soldering the cluster my gas gauge seems to be out of adjustment. (low fuel light at 1/2 tank) I filled it and it went well past full and am now going to run it out of fuel to find out where empty is. After the re solder (which fixed the bang the dash thing) it seemed out so I pulled it again to check for shorted solder. I am an electronics tech so I know how to do this properly. I couldn't find anything so.... My question is there some sort of procedure to synchronize the sender and gauge? or is the cluster nfg?

    Ok I have an update today I ran it out of gas it ran out at 3/8 of a tank. So any bright ideas guys? Every time this truck has anything fixed something else changes ( do you wonder why the previous owner and I named it Moaning Myrtle? ( a ghost form Harry Potter) Not to mention adding 500,000 kms on the odometer one nite and the always on cooling fans & always on interior lights etc etc.
    Looks like the dash will come out again to make sure I didn't miss something the first 2 times.
  • When I turn on my cruise control, the instrument cluster quits working. No speedometer or tachometer, no fuel or temp. What is causing this?
  • electricdodgeelectricdodge Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Just wanting to save everyone the hassle of owning a dodge caravan (grand or other crap).
    We've been having strange electrical issues for the last year or so.
    -headlights randomly shutting off
    -battery constantly dieing no matter how great the brand
    -all lights turn on, dash lights up but no turn over
    -clock and radio randomly resetting itself and all the dials
    -sometimes it starts and other times it wont

    IT IS (and maybe a combo of the two) wire from ignition to fuse box and the fuse box itself.

    The mechanic said that the fuse box sits in a precarious place in these dodge caravans and gets corroded and will make all kinds of weird happenings in the van. They initially thought it was the PCM (computer of the van) but its not.

    Up to this point we had replaced the battery (3 times), starter and paid many other "diagnosis" fees.

    Stop chasing gooses and get those two things replaced! and warrantied!!
  • have you found out what is wrong with the car when the dashboard goes out i have the same thing i have 1997 dodge grandcaravan
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    If you're having dashboard issues, pull the instrument cluster out of the dash and "touch" each solder connection with a hot iron just long enough to liquify the solder around the point. Once compelte, put the dash back in and like as not, your problems will be solved.
  • my wife 96 plymouth grand voyager se is acting real scary the driver side window will wrk sometimes the front ac/ heater blower only wrks on high and sometimes it will come on and go off and not wrk for days now the rear ac/heater will wrk on both sides u cut the van off start it back up and only the right lower vent will wrk can somebody please give some advice im new and hope im posting in the right form its fixing to be winter here in sc and i dont wont the heat to stop wrking while shes taking kids to school or while were out riding with our 6 kids :)
  • See the post directly above yours, #334, for the answer. The solder connectins on the circuit board on the back of the connectors on the instrument clusters are notorious for causing most of the electrical issues in these vans, including no start, die while running, no lights just to name a few. Sometimes a godd sharp smack on the center of the dash directly over the center of the instrument cluster will correct all the problems, but they will always return unless you do that fix.
  • It sounds like nothing more than a very badly timed coincidence. Your sending unit in the fuel tank probably needs replacing.
  • thanks Mr Joe Peterson 56 i will try that i have a friend at work who will help me and i will post results
  • Found on my 1999 Voyager that the motor for the power window was stuffed.
    Easy to check, take off door panel, disconnect plug from window winder. Hook up some test wires to a 12v battery, then quickly touch the tabs on the motor.

    As the motor turns in both directions try swapping the leads over. If it starts to move, it could be the window switch. If no movement, motor is stuffed, you'll need a new winder mechanism.
  • I need a fuse and relay center for the Chrysler/plymouth 1998 minivan voyager with an 3.3 liters engine, the part has this numbers on the side:
    4707892 B EATX
    23017
    0507

    Does someone has a spare used one?
    Thanks a lot
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Why don't you just buy a new one; by the time you pay for shipping and then deal with a used relay which may or may not work, you'll have messed around and spent more than simply buying new.
  • firealarmguyfirealarmguy Posts: 8
    edited December 2011
    If you are asking for a relay that plugs into the box by the battery. Buy a new one my dealer wants $33. for these but a good garage supply sells them for
    $7. I had the one for my tranny go bad and all I had was first gear. I carry new spares in my glove box now. I have changed 6 or 7 now in my 97.
  • joe, I too have the same problem and I too thot it was possibly a bad sender but I'm not replacing it until I have addressed ALL my other elec probs. I too re-soldered my inst cluster which fixed a myriad of probs [all due to fractured solder on ground returns]. Now, I'm experiencing my int lights, my door ajar light, door locks etc all going berserk... I've pulled most of the actuator relays to prevent excessive wear to the hardware until I've corrected this issue - which I believe to be yet another int ground, located somewhere other than the inst cluster. [I'm taking this on this w'end]. I've found that this latest problem is exacerbated by cold weather and just by getting the cab interior nice and toasty, does all the erratic behavior stop or is greatly reduced. I too am an electronics technologist and my best guesstimate is once again, bad ground[s] caused by either a loose screw or damaged/corroded wire/connector INSIDE the van: this eliminates all the modules, and hardware under the hood....
    As an aside, my battery went intermittent on me [pure happenstance]. It not only screwed up my factory authorized alarm system but it also caused another problem. Since then, as soon as the ignition is on, the speedometer reads 15Km/hr on the dial. To any tech, this isn't a mystery. What I believe has happened is that the inst cluster Eprom has become corrupted and, considering that the speedometer is just a meter movement, the DC OFFSET hex value programmed into either an independent Eprom or an Eprom within the main controller CPU has been altered... After a little research, I know I can buy a computer interface jig to readjust this value, but at what cost? In my opinion, Canadian Tire, who's battery failure triggered this event should be liable for this issue.
    Oh, and as an aside, I did try your tip to remove and reseat the interior fuse panel connectors to fix my problem with a relay buzzing int when the headlights were on..... I believe this minor problem is also related to my second, major int probs....
    What it all comes down to in my mind is that Daimler Benz used cheap tin connectors and the 'new and improved' leadless yet brittle solder...
    Cheers John Beck, Langley BC
  • teltomteltom Posts: 7
    edited December 2011
    Help my 2003 2.4litre caravan se, has gone sad??, The headlight switch will not turnoff the lights at all, At first the lights would turn off after several on/off on/off movements of the heradlight switch, But now they will not turn off at all, I have to close the door and hope they shut off after the (i guess master cut-off relay shuts off everything approx 8-10 minutes)However everything stays on untill that happens the radio, dash, lights headlights, and rear taillights also stay on untill the master timed cutoff relay shuts down the stuff, However if i open any door,or side slideing doors, the lights go back on again untill the mstr cutoff i assume shuts down everything again, The factory headlight switch has a very nice delay feature that when it works as it should keeps the headlight on for a few minutes or so ,and the auto parts store informed me the switch will cost more because it has the delay featre built in to it>??Has anyone elso replaced there headlight switch before that can advise how diffulicult it is.?? or maybe advise what i need to remove to make the repair happen ??Help i look for a response or two ,Thank you in advance Teltom
  • Just a note for you to think about I had my interior lights go a little nutty. They would turn on and off all the time, driving not driving, day time and night. I removed the bulbs but thought about it later and replaced the relay by the brake pedal and that has solved the problem. the relay contact would routinely close for no reason. SO you may want to replace that (for the low cost of it) and see if that may be the problem.
  • Help anyone who can offer there input on my headlight switch in my 2003 2.4 litre caravan,It will not shut off anything, now as my battery keeps draining because 0f the lights ,radio taillights along with other items, all stay on untill the master system shut-down relay timed circuit ,takes over after the default period of several minutes ,and shuts the lights and related componets off,I wondering if there is a way i can make a simple switch and connect it to the highlight relay, so when i need to shut them off i simple preee a normaly the button or switch , and the headlight relay would drop coil voltage and not come on untill i make the relay think its being turned on again,?? Crazy ideas i bet all are thinking, but im on a very limited stimulus allotment $$ wise and need to cut any possibile cost to repair this, on the cheap side,I searched several salvage yards and to no-avail all the van switches that were there will not fit in the mounting hole of the 2003 2.4 litre caravan ,i guess they changed the switch and mirror controls after 2003 ,as you can see there is no good way to correct this issue other than replaceing it with a new one?? I hope someone may have a seceret fix for the worn out headlight switch array?? Till then ill keep on putting the jumper cables in the vechile to assure my caravan wont leave me on the road side??, Thanks all
  • does anyone know if i can split the fuse box on a 2000 dodge caravan engine fuse box, the metal flange that the positive and negative cables are connected to are loose but i cant tighten the bolts (if any) on the connection unless i can separate the box,,,, any one have any ideas a new one cost 400+ ouch>
  • Hi:
    Happened to us - change the speed sensor
  • I just had the exact same thing happen to me today. I just pounded the dash cover really hard and everything came back on. Smacked the dash above the ABS and it went out. The engine service soon light wouldn't work.
    Not very scientific or mechanical but the price was right
  • Thumping the dash will begin to lose effectiveness. Depending on temperature, vibration and even humidity, the problem will progressively get worse and the symptoms will start to vary... Do NOT trust 'any' major shop to attempt a fix, they'll try replacing everything from the onboard computer to the kitchen sink w/out success! The only solid fix is to remove the speedo cluster, strip it down and resolder the fractured solder joints on the socket which connects to the harness which you have to remove in order to get the cluster out. The entire repair process takes a competent novice about 2 hours to complete. I have pictures of the process but have no idea on how to post them to this site......
  • I bought a 1997 Grand Voyager with 133,000 miles on it last week. Everything has been fine until today. Get in the van to go pick up grandson from school and the a/c fan won't blow! I live in Texas so it's hot!! So I think, "well I'll just have to roll the windows down until we can look at that". The electric windows won't operate! Tried turning the van off and restarting it twice, to no avail. BTW - the radio wasn't working at this time either. Twenty minutes later I make it to the school thinking I'm gonna die of heat stroke. When I turn off the van I can hear the a/c fan blow for a split second. Start the van back up and everything is working properly. Obviously this is some type of electrical issue, but where do I start to try to figure out what's wrong?
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    On my 2001 Caravan with the same symptoms I replaced the PCM ( Power Control Module) to correct the problem. I believe on the 97 model it is called the ECM (Electronic Control Module) mounted in the engine compartment on the fire wall or on top of the D/S wheel house. You mite luck in for a used one at a local auto wrecker for $ 20. Good Luck.
  • I tried cleaning the blue plug because there was green corrosion visible on the wires. Have had the power lock problem, would pull the IOD fuse, worked great for a while until I had to start pulling the fuse daily. The instrument panel has freaked out a few times, but started working again right away. Most recently the car wouldn't start or charge, which forced my hand into looking for a problem. I took the wires out of the connector, cleaned them up as best I could with scotch brite and sandpaper and a couple of tiny screwdrivers. I applied conductive grease (hope this doesn't cause me more problems), wiped down the wires and put them back in the connector. My car was able to take a jump, and started up fine. The instrument panel freaked out once, but that has been the only problem since. So thanks for the advice on cleaning the connector. Only thing now is I've seen you talk about replacing the IPM and the PCM, and seen others talk about touching up the soder on the speedometer cluster, and I'm wondering if I should get out now before my van gets possessed. Guess I'll have to keep an eye on it.
  • the wiper switch on my 1996 grand voyager has quit working. The wipers will work when I push in the switch to activate the wash fluid. I have checked the wiper motor fuse and it looks OK. What can I look at for this problem?
  • I just bought this van, it has 188 k mi on it, drives and feels good but it's registration says it is a plymouth voyager while the vehicle has dodge caravan all over it. Carfax identifies it as a voyager also. Whats the deal here?

    Also, When I bought the vehicle a couple days ago, the dash guages worked but now none of them do. The lights, wipers, dash lights, radio and all still work. I checked the fuses under the dash and they are all working and functional. Any ideas or suggestions? Sort of frustrating. :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: ">link title
  • johnbeckjohnbeck Posts: 12
    edited April 2013
    Check this site for other posts on 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan electrical problems & you should find previous answers to this problem and other related intermittent dashboard electrical problems. Its caused by fractured solder joints on the connector spikes which the wiring harness plugs onto which is mounted under the dash board display cluster.
    Pictures on disassembly/repair procedure:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/show/with/3474557830.
  • lon37lon37 Posts: 3
    push the button to reset the trip mileage and hold it in for several seconds, The do the same for the actual vehicle mileage.....It my reset the gauges...Lon
  • lon37lon37 Posts: 3
    My 2003 dodge grand caravan sport has not electrical power. The battery check good. Nothing in the car works. Any suggestions.....Lon
  • i had this same problem so bad my van would just shutoff while I was driving and all it was was my groud wire to the battery corroded
  • arjona7arjona7 Posts: 1
    So I have 2000 Plymoth GV and the check engine light is on, we've taken it to the mechanic and its in top shape but I decided to check the computer with the little scanner machine n it reads a code of P0001, I look it up and it says that there is no info on it, just that it is a Fuel Volume regulator control circuit/ open, any help please????
  • driving along, at random times of the day, I hear the alarm beep and see the speedometer needle bounce from the speed I am driving to zero and back again, repeatedly. also, the dash lights (mileage, time, etc.) flicker, and the 4 brake systems warning lights pop on, usually the "esp bas" light and the pic of the rear end of the car with the curvy lines stay on. when I park and turn off the ignition the lights go off and the problem goes away, sometimes for the rest of the day and sometimes to reappear a little later. my mechanic wants to see this for himself but this is not possible as I am a delivery person. could it be a soldering issue behind the dash, or maybe the ecm module?
  • johnbeckjohnbeck Posts: 12
    While I'm not familiar with that exact combination of symptoms, you're probably correct.. Car manufacturer's switched to lead free solder back in the 90s. The net result, especially with Dodge is a multitude of problems all relating to micro fracturing in solder connections, especially on the dash display module. It also appears that many of these symptoms are caused by the fracture being in a common ground line which then of course affects multiple associated functions.
    DON'T let anyone sell you on any modules before you've had someone experienced with these symptoms actually see them...
    When the symptoms occur (while pulled over of course), take a video of these symptoms while gently (at first) banging on the dash above and around the speedometer array until the problem disappears.
    At least that way you can confirm the symptoms for the mechanic.
    The rest will come down to his experience and the damn car being cooperative...
    You'll get zero help from Dodge! Good Luck.
  • cscarlett1121cscarlett1121 Posts: 3
    edited September 2013
    Put new battery in my1996 Plymouth Voyager. Now it wont pass smog. Do I need to reprogram. And does anyone know how that's done?
  • It probably didn't pass because while the battery was out of the car the memory was wiped out due to lack of power to it. You should just have to drive it around for about an hour to trigger all the system monitors to insue they are working properly and are ok. The system runs a bunch of tests on the vehicle under various condition like speed, wide open throttle etc. during that time and when it completes the tests the system is reset. It is easiest if you check the system with a scan tool after driving it for awhile, and the scanner should tell you the monitors are "OK". Once this happens the car should pass the smog test with no problem.
  • Thank you Sir. I'll do these steps and hopefully its nothing else. When the man gave it to me he said he replaced 3 sensors, he said everything ran right but couldn't pass smog. Here I go on a hour long drive. Thanks.
  • Ok sorry but regroup. the smog man said that the previous owner put in new computer and when he tested it 3 sensors went off he said 1 too many So is my best bet to put it on a scanner? I mean does it sound fixable?
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