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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues



  • harpman1harpman1 Posts: 7
    Does that mean I have to have it towed to a dealer?
  • harpman1harpman1 Posts: 7
    I replaced the bcm with one that has the exact same part number but it was from a van with security and some of the accessories that work with the original bcm don't work with the replacement but the odometer and shift pattern light up with this bcm.Also the low beam relay blinks the headlights continuosly and when I try to start it nothing happens except for the horn starts to beep in the alarm mode,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well no, what I was implying was this--that with these totally weird and multiple electrical problems one has to have a starting point--some indicator of the possible component, or circuit, this is malfunctioning.

    I guess if you got a factory wiring diagrams you could patiently trace back to where all these symptoms might inter-connect. The fact that you get different results using different BCMs does not encourage us that this is going to be all that simple.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • harpman1harpman1 Posts: 7
    OK I removed the speedo and resoldered all the connections on the PCB and reinstalled it.Still doesn't work or start.There was a third bcm lying on the floor of the van that I tried and it provided different functionality.The gas gauge now works but the odometer and shift pattern displays light up as soon as the battery terminals are connected without inserting the ignition key.Power locks don't work or front windows but the rear vents operate.I had the fan working with the original but now none of the BCMs provide function for it.Oh ya with this third BCM the power door locks shudder the whole time it is connected! At least I know my dash works---well I haven't been able to test the speedo or temp gauge.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Do you ever get different functionality from the same BCM after you have un-and-re-plugged it? I half wonder if some of the problem may be the quality of the connection itself....
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • harpman1harpman1 Posts: 7
    The only function that changed was the fan for the heater.It worked when I first got the vangafter swapping a 40 amp fuse(it didn't have a fuse) and now nothing.Each BCM responds the same every time I put one in.I removed all the connections that people said might be suspect and cleaned them all includine the ground to body and all the battery connections.I'll hit the boneyard this week and search out a BCM.
  • adaddyadaddy Posts: 1
    I just bought an 05 and the only damage i need to repair is a cracked b pillar. Can anyone explain how to remove/install the part once I obtain a replacement?
  • ccbdowccbdow Posts: 1
    Well, I have joined this elite club----same problem on my 2002 Grand Caravan, I took it to the dealer and they tried replacing the ignition switch---no solution---tested the main control module---no solution---they think it is in the wiring below the battery because of corrosion from the battery box---sure seems like to me it has to be at the ignition switch level due to my accessories are working in ACC position and the ON position just before starting---then they go out----usually come back after 10 miles or so----variable. Anybody have the solution to this yet, I could really use it too. Thanks
  • harpman1harpman1 Posts: 7
    OK Had some time to mess with this issue this week.I luckily found a BCM from the same year van with the same accessories and the same part number!I Even had the guy pop it back in and connect the battery so I could test its functionality so I could have a positive point of reference.When installed in my 98 Caravan the dash lights up and most of the functions work cept the blower and the directionals.So I thought about all of you that said that after pounding on the dash and the instument panel came alive that your van would start and since I have a lighted dash for the first time I tried jumping it from the starter relay(still get nothing from the key)but alas she would turn over but not start.So I tried checking the ignition switch and it seems to test out to be working properly and I even traced the starter wire to the fuse/relay panel under the dash and when I put my meter on it so I could see it from the drivers seat it produces 12 volts when the key is turned at the starter relay terminal.OK so I tried some starting either since it seemed to be energizing the ignition and when I jumped the starter relay terminals sure enough it would run on either! So it's not providing fuel for some reason.I tried manually jumping the fuel/auto shutdown/etax shutdown/relays with their covers off in a number of different settings but no luck.Oh ya the blower will work if jumped at the relay just like the starter!
  • dude88dude88 Posts: 1
    i have an 08 grand caravan and i was having trouble starting it. So i took the battery out and brought it over to advanced to have it tested. They told me the battery was internally shorted. So i bought another battery.

    Heres where the trouble begins.....

    I wasn't paying much attention when putting the new battery in and i put it in backwards. I tried starting my van and nothing lit up on the dash at all. Then i realized there was a little smoke coming from under the hood. I then realized what i did. The smoke was coming from under the fuse box.

    I did a little research and found out that the TIPM is under the fuse box. So i probably fried the TIPM. I just really need to know if i screwed anything else major up, or if there is some sort of protection device in the TIPM or something.

    Help please :(
  • kizersozekizersoze Posts: 2
    This is a brand new problem for this vehicle. It won't start unless it's being jumped in which case, it starts just fine. I've cleaned the battery terminals and swapped out the starter (starter and solenoid are one unit.) still have the same issue. When failing, several clicks and chaotic behavior from the interior lamps. Tried tapping solenoid while turning key, no luck, which is why I bought a new starter. Not it. Any ideas?
  • hadadihadadi Posts: 1
    i just bought a second hand chrysler grand voyager 3.3 grand se.
    the next day in the morning it would not start i used my starter cable and the neighbour started it with his car battery,it took a few tries before it worked. after that it worked the whole day without a glitch.
    next day worse, i try to start it battery is dead again?
    i tried to start it turned it of completely after unsuccesfully having tried and then al kinds of strange things happen while turned of. the window sweepers front and back start sweeping without having been turned of i hear a strange fast clicking electrical sound and the headlight seems to be moving up and down at the same time and the clock went on and of. when finally a neighbour came to jumpstart the car again the problem stopped. day 3, oops there it goes again, i am now charging the battery or trying and the charger goes from 0 to full every 30 seconds. can you please help?

    ps. when trying to start the all the dial go carzy and turn around
  • ronald77ronald77 Posts: 1
    I was driving my 93 Grand Voyager through an intersection 4 days ago when the minivan suddenly lost all power in the middle of the intersection and I was able to coast to the curb corner on the the other side.

    The instrument pane went dead, the radio went dead, the minivan would not start using the ignition key. The interior lights could be turned on using the dimmer switch.

    I called the AAA for assistance in towing the minivan home about 4 miles away. While waiting, my daughter said she smelled a burnt smell. I open the hood and could not find anything obvious. I checked the wires and the fluid levels and they seemed to be okay. I could not find any source of burning.

    While waiting for assistance, I then checked all the fuses in the fuse box and found all of them to be okay.

    When the tow driver came, he asked what the problem was and I explained to him what the problem was. He asked me to try and start the engine with the key. No response. He then thought it might be a dead battery and tried to jump the battery. No response. He then came out with a voltage meter and tested the batter and said that the batter was good, 13.3 volts. He felt that the problem is electrical near the battery pole.

    Well, we were towed home. My mechanic neighbor and his family had arrived at his home but he was not at home. I opened the hood and re checked the engine compartment and found a red insulated wire that had two tiny holes in it. I felt the wire and found that you could feel one side of the wire with wire in it then there was a break or gap, then you could feel more wire through the insulation. The wire was located in a thick bundle of wires on the engine driver's side.

    I studied my two manual, Chilton and Hayes, and felt that it might be one of those fusible links. I had to use a magnifying glass to look at Chilton's wiring diagram for the year (93) 3.0 Grand Voyager. I looked at Hayes electrical wiring diagrams and didn't find to much useful information other than how to replace the fusible link and to be sure that the negative pole of the battery was disconnected.

    The next morning I had my mechanic neighbor checked what I had discovered and he agreed that that was the fusible link wire and that I should replace the wire with the same amperage or gauge with of 10 amps. He told me that there was art to solder the wires together.

    I started to read as much information about this problem as the manual had said that you should not rely on fixing the fusible link only without searching for the underlying cause. I had asked my mechanic friend if there was any computer codes that could solve the problem as to the source. He said the problem could be anywhere and that you would need to know which circuit was involved by removing each fuse to see if that would isolate the source.

    Since that was a much bigger project than I could do without having some special instruments and lacking a detailed electirical diagram for the model year, I decided to consider looking for professional advice. I spoke with my new pastor as he had some recent electrical work done with replacement of an alternator how did he like the result with the new mechanic. He was pleased with the results.

    So I decided to get the fusible link link from NAPA in our town and also get the butt wire connectors as well. I had planned to solder the wires but the parts person said that you could use the butt wire connectors with just as good result and to use electrical tape as well.

    I decided following this to visit my pastor's new mechanic for a consultation. I presented my problem to him and wanted to know if he had any experience with a fusible link problem. He told me that sometimes a circuit could be over loaded for some reason and the problem self correct and not occur again. He asked if I had used the air conditioning. I told him that the AC was not working for years and we never used it due to a microscopic leak in the evaporator that could not be fixed without incurring a large cost. I told him of my plan to repair that link and asked him if I could bring the minivan in for evaluation. He said if the fusible link solves the problem there would not be any computer codes available as there was no check engine light that came on. He said if there was a recurrence in a few days or several weeks to bring the minivan in and they would check it out. He said if the problem reoccured several months later, it would be more difficult to pin point the source.

    I re studied the available electrical diagrams on the two manuals this evening. I noticed that someone had mentioned going to the library and looking at the electrical diagram on the Mitchell's manual. I may just do that before installing the fusible link.

    I was even thinking of going to my old mechanic who had worked on the car for many years and asking his opinion.

    I would like to have some suggestions on this challenge that I am facing as to what anyone would suggest solving this problem?


  • Finally I find kindred spirits! My 1997 Dodge Caravan goes thru this sequence:
    abs and check engine lights come on, gas gauge, odometer, speedometer,'etc
    do not work. After a few days the ABS light goes off, the check engine light stays
    on and the gauges pop back on. Normally after I drove the car for a while the
    engine light would go off and everything would be normal. Then the cycle
    would start over. The cycles seem to be coming more often now. I wrote down the
    sequence and gave it to a Chrysler service advisor who showed no interest, charged
    about $90 to use computer diagnostics and told me a controller board MIGHT help.
    My gas gauge pings and fluctuates sometimes with the sequence but not every time.

    I also have the wayward wipers that I have seen several dodge/chrysler owners write in about at several websites. They sometimes have life of their own but
    especially like to swipe at least 3 times when I use the turn signal. Lately they
    have not been wanting to shut off and sometimes stop at the sides of the windshield instead of nesting at the bottom.

    I am really sorry that Chrysler products have these types of aggravating frustrating
    idiosyncrasies because the van drives, runs and rides great otherwise.

    As I have been reading at several sites I have found that many owners seem to
    have these and similar problems and there seem to be as many solutions as
    there are drivers with problems....replace the clockspring, replace the BCM,
    check the fuses, check the wiring, do a complete re-set....what should we do
    to solve these problems,,which one is the best, simplest and longest lastng

    I did read at one website that an owner of a 1996 caravan was having the same
    abs light on/gauges off problem and he said he found a fuse in the fusebox under the hood and #1 from left to right was broken.

    If anyone can give a consistent affordable fix to these problems (short of trading the dodge in for a toyota) I am sure all of us kindred spirits would love to hear it..

    Sorry to go on so long but I am just so relieved to find out I am not the only one
    with this quirky set of dodge problems.

    In closing I have but one final word..HELP.
  • snolove29snolove29 Posts: 1
    i dont have a sollution but my mom is having a similar problem. i was hoping you found a solution and could help us out. she has already spent hundreds trying to find out. it just dies out for no reason we can see,and lights flash and there is clicking. but starts instantly with a jump.
  • My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
  • lwoody1lwoody1 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It's happening the same way you described it. The ABS light, engine light, gauges, dashboard and even the windshield wipers are going crazy!!! Did you ever find the problem? If so, PLEASE help!!!!!!
  • Sorry its not more dramatic than this but simply get a new battery. That's all I did and everything cleared right up.
  • nca2knca2k Posts: 1
    My 2001 T&C will not start sometimes, when I turn the key all of the lights etc. work but the starter just clicks. I turn the key on anf off and it will start sometimes it takes a little longer then other times, this is not everytime just at random intervals. The last time it did it on the dash where the air bag light comes on when you start it a "DONE" light came on. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on.
    Thanks in advance.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    What you're describing is a classic failure mode for the Nippon Denso starter used in something approaching half the cars built in the world (including these vans). While the starter itself is extremely robust and well designed, the contacts inside the integrated solenoid get scored and carboned up and need to be replaced every so many thousands of starts. Most folks opt for a new, or a remanufactured (as good as new), or a rebuilt (not as good as new but still pretty good) starter. That said, there are a number of companies that sell the Denso contacts for something less than twenty dollars, so if you're at all handy, you can fix the issue very inexpensively.

    Best regards,
  • Had spark plugs changed after that had issues with van reving up for no reason. Van will try to accelerate while trying to stop (no fun) and when driving the rmps jump up and a/c cuts on and off. Took to 1st mechanic who changed a gasket. No help. Took to 2nd mechanic changed some part but no help. Does anyone have ANY idea at all? Cannot afford another mechanic. Please give me ideas.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Mechanics that throw parts at a problem don't qualify to be called "mechanics". You need to find someone who will do a proper diagnosis of the problem (which could range from vacuum leaks, sensor failures, and computer problems) and fix only what's broken. Unfortunately the only way to properly determine what's wrong will be to hire a competent mechanic, and that's going to cost you some money.

    Best regards,
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    That is my thought as well. Since the problem started right after spark plugs were changed (which is an incredible pain in the rear!), I suspect a vacuum problem. Several vacuum hoses must be disconnected/moved aside in order to reach the plugs on the back side of the engine. I broke a very well-aged hose for the PCV system on my van when changing the plugs. Since it was my van, though, I had the incentive to replace the hose rather than ignore it.... ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I don't know if you had a reply to this or not, but I have a 96 Voyager, and the same thing happened to me and all it was, was a bare wire that was touching the engine. It was the little cluster of wires that are on the right side of the engine, Between the battery and the engine. I guess thats a good description of where it is.
  • I saw the other discussion on here about the air bag light, but saw no real good responses except for the instrument cluster replacing thing. My thing also is I keep having to mess with the fuse box under my dash to get my turn signals to work. Sometimes they will work without a problem for a while, then other times I just have to keep messing with that fuse box. I've had it for like 2 years and almost got 210,000 miles on it. So if someone could help me it would be appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    The fix for the air bag light and inoperable horn is to replace the clock spring in the steering wheel.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • The other night, I dragged the bumper exiting a parking lot. Since that time my instrument cluster does not work (speedo, fuel gauge, tach, odometer, etc.) the back-up sensors are also out. Also the main brake lights do not work. The van is equipped with a factory installed 7 wire trailer plug as well, which is what dragged. Upon investigation I found that the wires leading to the plug were bare and some were crossed. I also found the green lead (I assume it is the ground) was broken. I repaired the green wire and isolated the others, but to no avail.

    Any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Have you checked your fuse box? The crossed wires may have blown one (or more)....
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Yes. I didn't see any, but I'm also not sure which one it would be.
  • My '97 GC ES runs well, but tonight, the lights will not go off. Pulled in the driveway, put it in park, and removed the key. The dinging sound started (lights on), and would not quit. The interior lights, plus the headlights remained on, even after the door is closed. The dinging stopped, but the lights remained on. I disconnected the battery, and then reconnected it-no effect. I left it disconnected tonight so that I could get it to the mechanic in the morning. Anyone have any ideas? And yes, the doors are all tightly closed. Thanks in advance.
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