Mazda MPV Starting/Stalling Problems

wcarnes

While driving through the neighborhood. My mpv just died. It was though someone reached down and turned the key off. No warning, weird noise or anything. Checked the fuel system. Seems to be OK. I'm getting gas through the fuel filter when the ignition is turned on. I am getting no spark off of the plugs. I traced it back to the distributor and I am not getting any spark out of the distributor coils either. I am getting voltages into the distributor 12Vdc (battery voltage) and 5Vdc (maybe a control of some sort) but no voltage out of the distributor. Has anyone had any similar problems like this. It would be nice to know exactly what to check to determine if it is in fact the distributor, before I drop $300.00 (non-refundable) on it. It definitly isn't working, but I'm not sure if it is the distributor or something that isn't telling it to fire. Please help.

once_for_all

do you have spark from the ignition coil? You should be able to check if the coil is ok or not. If it is good, then it is something inside the distributor.

My guess is that the coil went out. I am not familiar with specifics on your engine as I have the 2002 with the Ford engine.

John

wcarnes

no spark from ignition coil. Look more and more like the distributor. Everything is enclosed inside the dist. (ignition coil,ICM,etc.)

once_for_all

just keep testing the components, I guess. One or more is bad. Good luck,

John

jaw173a

My MPV started running rough. They changed the plugs several times now because each time they do they find carbon tracking. The last few times we've paid attention to the details, it seems like it's always cyl#2 and sometimes others. So then it runs for a month or two, and then the same thing happens.

When they investigate they find the same thing - carbon tracking.

Their explanation is they think the spark plugs must have invisible cracks in the porcelain and maybe there's a whole bad batch. I don't get why it would always be centered around #2 though.

I found one post in an older (now READ ONLY) forum that says both the plugs and the wires need to be replaced at the same time, but my dealer doesn't get why one would affect the other.

The other thing is that the dealer admits he's not sure why this happening and seems to be happy with replacing the plugs and giving me the car back.

Any suggestions on what might be happening here?

7777778

I Just had he same problems with my 1996. did you ever find the answer? Help Thanks D Anderson

pappaneil

Timing Belt!! To check, take off the distributer cap and note which position the rotor cap is in. Turn engine over, see if rotor cap is in the same position. If it is, you have a broken timing belt. Best way is to have someone turn the key while you observe the distributer cap to see if it turns while the engine is cranking.

sickvan1

I just cam across this forum after doing a search re: our MPV. Mine is also a 1996 and we have had continuing issues with starting/stalling problems. I'm going to re-look into the spark-plug/distributor cap (know a few basics but don't do any work myself.) Is this a common problem with mid-90's MPV's? It's been an absolute headache. We frequently use gas-line antifreeze (helped in the past), had the timing belt replaced last year (I'll have to check the paperwork to see what other work was done at the time) and also use the EFI cleaner periodically. Our idle was slightly readjusted at one point - didn't seem to help much. We've probably had about five or so different mechanics/garages look at the problem over the past couple of years, had it in for servicing at points, and no one can seem to locate the problem. It will be OK for a while and then back to running terribly. Any ideas?

divaristicsoul

I have a 1996 Mazda MPV minivan I just had a water pump changed on it, now it won't start. It is getting fire and fuel is flowing but the car won't turn over.

subearu

would guess your timing belt slipped a notch, maybe the tensioner is bad. Tyipcally you replace the tensioner and water pump when you replace the timing belt, since the labor is already there.

-Brian

ablefty

Have a 1992 Mazda Mpv, 300,000 Km, 3.0 L 6-cyl.. 2-wheel drive. Was running fine but suddenly won't start. It turns over fine but am getting no spark at the plugs. The spark from the coil is yellow, not blue. Not sure if this is of any signifigance or not. I suspect the distributor but am wondering if there is a secret quirk with this model, and/or is there any way to check the distributor once it is out. Also, what is easiest way to find TDC in the #1 plug on the ignition cycle?

tilde05

Help, our 2005 MPV ES has 43K on it and now barely runs. It acts as if it is flooded. It will crank fine but will not start unless you press the gas pedal to the floor. It will then "idle" at whatever RPM the car actually started running on its own (anywhere from 1500 to 3200 RPM). Once it runs and you floor the gas pedal, it will not rev much above 3200 RPM and then the revs will just remain at that speed. When you move from park to drive it stalls again and you repeat the process. To get the car home, I tried left foot braking while I floored the gas pedal and switched to drive. It worked and I was able to get the car home although the idle was still around 2000 RPM, which made for interesting shifting from the transmission. The TCS light also came on while you cranked the engine and stayed on regardless of whether you pressed the TCS button. The car also in burning rich (black smoke and rich exhaust smell).

Has anyone had this happen to them? Is it the O2 sensor, the Cat? or gulp,... the ECU?

tilde05

I forgot to mention. The CEL has not come on.

subearu

Aren't you still under warranty? Take it in if so.

-Brian

dkuphal

A few weeks ago the van starting making a rattling/knocking noise once in a while on start up and go away after 10-30 seconds. The noise is like a diesel engine. Also, occasionally (in conjunction with the diesel sound), the fine ticking of lifters is heard. The Mazda service tech determined the noise was due to a leak around the front manifold, and we will be getting this repaired. It was also discovered that a bolt on the rear manifold happened to be broke too. To me, however, I think that the engine is misfiring occasionally on start up, and I could here this phenomenon because of the leak in the exhaust system. Or, can a leak in the manifold seal cause misfiring on startup? I'm also wondering if maybe a leak in the head gasket can be letting just enough coolant to leak somewhere causing a misfire, thereby being a problem completely separate from the manifold leak. Why wouldn't an engine light indicate a misfire....does it only do so once the engine is at running temp?

alvieandtara

My husband works on Mazdas and thinks you should check the throttle position sensor.

tilde05

Thanks for the info. Actually it was the temperature sensor.

backy

My 2002 MPV has developed a shudder at idle. It seems to run fine under throttle. I can see the engine shaking when stopped (and hood up of course). I had the rear coils replaced maybe a year ago, but then there was noticeable stumbling under power. Any ideas what that might be? I have to take the van in for an oil change next week anyway, but it would be good to have an idea of the problem source and know that it's safe to drive for a few days. No check engine light.

subearu

sounds like a PCV hose, it has been becoming common again to have these replaced

-Brian

backy

Thanks! Sounds a lot cheaper than coils.

jipster

Definitely seems to be a PCV hose. At idle (high vacuum) the symptoms appear, while under throttle (low vacuum) they disappear.

There was a recall for some 2002-2003 MPV's for the PCV hose. If the original owner of your MPV did not have this done you could get it done for free under recall. The recall hose was upgraded not to break down as quickly as the old one. So make sure you get the hose with the AJ511389YB part number...not AJ11389YA.

Actually if done by the dealer could be just as expensive as a coil. You can still go to Autozone and have them check kyour codes. Sometimes the computer will store a faulty code but the CEL will not come on. If you are sure it is the hose you can tell the dealership to go ahead and replace it and save yourself $95 diagnostics. If a hose is ruptured bad enough you will hear a hissing noise from the very back of the engine. A few parts you have to take off to be able to take a good look at it.

The hose is a bit tricky to get to, but you could do it yourself. The hose cost about$70 and labor around another $70... if you have to throw in diagnostics that's a pretty big chunk of coin. Good luck.

subearu

But even that replaced hose has had some issues. The hose has gone through a couple revisions it seems. So, you could have had the hose replaced under the recall and now need it again.

-Brian

jipster

The PCV hose part # I listed, that ended in "YB" is the latest in PCV hose improvements. That's the one backy wants.

If the hose has already been replaced under recall, with the old "YA" hose, then I would ask the dealership for some "goodwill", as Mazda is obviously using (used) substandard/poorly designed PCV hoses.

backy

Thanks, everyone--very, very helpful! I'll probably take it to the dealer, since I need that (free) oil change anyway, and plead for the "goodwill" if it turns out the part has already been replaced. According to the service invoices I get from them, they are supposed to have checked for recalls at each service (and didn't find any open ones), so it's unlikely this hose hasn't been replaced before. Also the prior owner had the van serviced at the same dealership.

alvieandtara

For our problem, it was actually the IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). A $70 part that took 2 seconds to replace and the problem was fixed! It was reading at 12.5 volts when it should've been between 8 and 10.

notagain3

About 2 months ago, after some heavy rain, my 2001 MPV engine started to shudder and the engine light came on. On the first visit, the dealer replaced the distributor, but did not solve the shuddering completely. On the second, my husband heard a hissing sound, so they replaced the PVC hose. After the recent heavy rain, the engine light came on again with slight shuddering. What can we do next? Thanks for any help.

jipster

Sounds like a bad coil pack.

If you have an autozone in your area you can have your codes checked for free.

bartonb

jipster (or anyone else who knows),
We just had our lower PCV hose replaced on our 2002 MPV LX. We bought the van used in late '03/early '04 with low mileage, but it is now of course no longer under warranty. We did not get any notification about a recall (although we did have something else replaced as a recall a good while back).

So 2 questions:
1) The shop told us they had to remove the plenham (manifold) gaskets on the engine in order to be able to get to the PCV valve to replace it and so those gaskets were replaced. Is that correct? (If not, I have a major bone to pick with them 'cause it cost more to replace those than the pcv hose)

2) Given how long it has been since the warranty expired, would this repair have been covered? Even if the answer would've been yes, I guess it is too late since I'm sure a Mazda dealership would have had to do the repair as a recall, or?

Thanks!

jipster

1) The shop told us they had to remove the plenham (manifold) gaskets on the engine in order to be able to get to the PCV valve to replace it and so those gaskets were replaced. Is that correct? (If not, I have a major bone to pick with them 'cause it cost more to replace those than the pcv hose)

2) Given how long it has been since the warranty expired, would this repair have been covered? Even if the answer would've been yes, I guess it is too late since I'm sure a Mazda dealership would have had to do the repair as a recall, or?

I'm not an expert, so maybe someone else can chime in with the details. I've never read of anyone having to replace any gaskets to replace the pcv valve or hose. You had both the hose and valve replaced? The PCV hose was initally under a recall in 2002 (?). It was replaced with what some feel was still an inferior hose, which is not currently under recall but has been replaced with a newer redesigned hose, the one that was probably just installed in your van. I'm guessing your 2002 MPV had the PCV hose replaced under recall before you bought it. You can check by calling your local Mazda dealership and giving them you vin number. They can also check on what recalls were done and if any are still required.

I've read a good tech can remove a pcv hose/valve without taking off the intake manifold. But, some dealerships will remove it... guess this was a judgement call that favored the dealership.

Even though your van is out of warranty, any recall work that hasn't already been done... must be done free of charge by the dealership.

backy

I think the PCV hose recall was in August 2003. If it was never replaced under recall, then the hose replacement should be free now. If it WAS replaced under warranty... Mazda is under no obligation to fix it again for free, unless it failes under the 1 year/12k replacement parts warranty, but they want happy customers. I called Mazda customer service after paying about $170 to have the PCV hose replaced on my 2002 MPV a few weeks ago, and after some talking and checking (with the dealership), they sent me a $75 gift card for Mazda services and parts.

acepsu94

Hi All, well my check engine light is on AGAIN! 3rd time in almost a year. It almost happens when it's wet outside. First time was in the turnpike and felt the car was slipping but I thought it was just hydroplanning. I had the #1 coil replaced and all sparkplugs replaced. 2nd time happened in 6 months (at a light and when I pressed on the gas pedal, it started slipping and again it was raining) and took to Advance Auto to diagnost and #4 misfired and had that replaced by a Ford dealer. Now it happened again and I was at a stop sign (and it was raining, again) and when I went to accelerate, it felt like the front tires were spinning and hold behold, check engine light turned on. Now it's running rough and can't get it to go past 50 mph and and will not shift after 3rd. Can anyone shed some light as to what is wrong with this engine? Do I need to have the remaining coils replaced? They are expensive!!! Is it another problem that I should bring to the dealer? The car has 76K

jsmith9921

What ever came of this issue? Did you replace all coil packs and it start working fine or was it something else? I have the exact same issue.

acepsu94

Yes, in all instances I had to get each coil replaced and it fixes the problem. I asked the Mazda tech and they said this is a common problem. Which stinks because I still have 3 more coils to go. So the next coil to go (3, 4, or 5) will run me another $250 (parts/labor). I also found out that the part is cheaper at a Mazda dealer than a Ford dealer.

jipster

Coils #4 and #5 are in the front, towards the radiator, that's an easy 5 minute fix. The coils in the back are the ones that will cost a lot, due to having to take the upper manifold off, best to replace the ones in the back at the same time.

tinkerwithit

did you change the plugs and wires yourself. It looks like it would be tough job. what is the order for part removal? what about the dhoc.

tinkerwithit

The dhoc looks like it could make changing the spark plugs and wires a tough job. can anyone tell me the order of removal of parts to change the plugs and wires?

marpervan

I have a 1994 mazda mpv and i'm having the same type problem. I've replace fuel pump + filter + spark plugs + igniter what else to do

stevef16

I just had what sounds like the exact same problem with my 2002 MPV. Hopefully tilde05 is back on the road by now, but in case anyone else has the same problem, here's what happened to me. Being a "fix-it" kind of a guy, tried to fix it myself first. The when the idle went high, I first replaced the idle air control valve ($92), no difference. I then replaced the MAF sensor ($209 from the dealer, the only one that would fit), no difference. I then replaced the throttle position sensor ($34), no difference. All the while, no codes were set. I then gave up and took it to a repair shop. They found that the "coolant temperature sensor" was bad, replaced it ($180 total), and now the van runs like new. Hope this helps someone. Maybe next time I'll just bring it to the shop right off.

nic39

Hi, I've got an '03 with 138,000 clicks. So far, it's been extremely reliable and we've had no real problems. Now it "shudders' when I'm at a red light and it feels like it's going to stall out. Also acts the same going up a hill. Just had the coolant thermostat and seal replaced, as well as a "platinum plug" (#2 I believe) and the EGR valve gasket replaced because that's what the diagnostic check said to fix. Driving today the engine light came on (just got it back from the shop last week), and engine light flashed every time I had to go up a hill, then went back to steady.
Any ideas?

subearu

Possibly a coil, which is on each plug. The blinking CEL indicates a engine misfire in 1 or more cylinders, when it is just on steady, it indicates an emission related code, which could be just a result of the misfire.

Hard to say which coil is bad, could be more than 1. They aren't cheap to replace at the dealer, not terribly hard to DIY if you search for instructions.

-Brian

smcglothen

I bought a 1991 mpv with 140k miles on it. ran fine for about a week even took it on a 200 mile round trip with no issues. now will crank but not fire wo't roll start and when i try it All the indicator lights on the dash flash randomly and the engine sounds like it is running but the odometer is erratic to 1500 - 0 and back.
I am afraid of an ECU problem as I do not have alot of money to put into this car

any ideas of what i can look to fix to get er back to running and starting again? :sick:

moisesp

Mechanic has just replaced all the sparkplug and no. 2 coil. he mentioned that the tester is indicating that no2 coil is defective, so he replaced it, however the problem is still there, he then told me two days later that I have to replace all the coil. I felt that this mechanic is guessing but I don't want to tell him directly... so I need any advise or assistance otherwise I will be spending more than 1, 000.00 ( non refundable) to replace all the coil as per his diagnosis. any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Million Thanks.

budmantom

You can buy a 6 pack of MPV coils on ebay for between $120-185 shipped and you should shop around with differnt mechanics to see how much they charge for the labor, I know the back 3 can be tricky, you could also doing it yourself there is a great article on replacing them on the Mazda MPV forum.

jipster

he then told me two days later that I have to replace all the coil.

It would be a miracle for all 6 coils to fail at the same time. No, your mechanic is not guessing. He is incompetent. Take your MPV somewhere else.

If he did replace #2 coil, he should have asked you if you wanted #1 and #3 replaced since they are in the back of engine as well... would have saved you a lot in labor.

moisesp

Thanks for your info. Now I'm thinking that this mechanic is just trying to reap me off. :mad: I tried to ask him for my old parts and he mentioned that he misplace them. I'm sure that he only replace cylinders in the front.. The back three can be tricky? what does that mean? im taking my car to another mechanic to take a look at it, or do it myself to ensure that im not gonna be reap off.. any suggestions?

Thanks again

moisesp

Thanks alot. you saved me from being reap off.. I would greatly appreciated if someone can show me the easiest way to remove and replace those coil at the firewall area.
Thanks

jipster

There are step by step directions, with photos, on how to replace the back coils at the "MPVClub.com". A lot of people at the site say it is fairly easy.

jipster

The back three can be tricky?

With the back 3 coils (#'s 1-3) you have to take off the intake manifold to get to them... takes about an hour and a half I believe.

buzzk

Our 2004 MPV recently has the engine occassionally just quit - usually when stopping, especially suddenly, but at least twice it happenned at hiway speeds when on cruise at 60+... both of those times at the same spot in the road, where the hiway dips down into a sort of mini-vally, then comes back up a short hill. It dies abt where the road levels out again. All panel lights come on, but it starts quickly & easily & runs flawlessly [til next time] after that. panel lights go out instantly & the code reader only once had a pending code abt the transmission range selector switch, which cleared w/next run & at all other times [abt a dozen in the last couple months] there is no code at all, pending or otherwise. I've checked a lot of obvious stuff & found nothing wrong; I think it's probably a bad ignition switch.. advice? anybody had this problem?

thx, BK

keng5

Had the same problem. Cleaned idle air solenide mounted on top of throttle body. Took it off, cleaned it with gumout. The little piston needs to close and it gets carbon in it. Where the idle air control bolts on to the manifold the passage was carboned. Sprayed a little gum out and then inserted a small brush to clean carbon. Also cleaned throttle body. Inside the throttle body there's a plate that opens and closes when you open the throttle. It was all carboned. So far so good!!

acepsu94

Well it's now 97K and so far it has not re-occurred. fingers crossed.