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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)



  • lucas212lucas212 Posts: 2
    is it normal for me to be running around 2800 rpms at 60mph. it seems realy high. amy advise would be great.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It is possible. Depending on tire size, differential gearing ratio, etc, it could happen. I have a 2.5L, 4.88 gears, a 5 speed, and 33" tires. My RPM's aren't exactly low. :)

    2800 is just shy of where the 2.5 has the most power it seems (but that isn't saying a WHOLE lot. :)

  • tracy3999tracy3999 Posts: 10
    I have looked and asked everyone and everywere( not the jeep dealers yet) and can't find what im looking for!! I need new weatherstripping for the bottom of my back window!! It just goes along the bottom of the window so when you close the little back door the top window goes down so the rain doesn't get in.. I have a 2004 jeep wrangler tJ.. does anyone know were i can get this strip for my back window? It's not the the round rubber that goes in the window .. It's the thick piece that goes on the bottom of the window.. if you have any idea were i can purchase this it would be great!! Thanks.
  • lucas212lucas212 Posts: 2
    yeah thats just it this is a new jeep to me so im nit sure if anything has been switched out. I have 30" tires. is their anything i can do or switch out to make it better on the highway. Thanks Brian
  • kid2021kid2021 Posts: 6
    try jc whitney for the weather stripping. they have everything that I have needed for my 95 YJ that I could not find anywhere else. I'm sure they will be cheaper than the dealer as well
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have looked and asked everyone and everywere( not the jeep dealers yet)........

    Why is it important to get a non-OE weatherstrip?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Are we talking hard top or soft top here? If soft top, just get a new bar for the back window.

    BTW this should be in the Jeep Wrangler 97-2006 section not the YJ area.

    Try quadratec or JCWhitney.

  • tracy3999tracy3999 Posts: 10
    Thank you for trying to help me.. My jeep is a 2004 hard top.. TJ.. I have looked on many sites and i can't find this special weather stripping.. thanks
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    So we're talking hard top?

    I found some trim, but this may be for the side windows... uct_Code=lv51&Category_Code=Wrangler6 uct_Code=7921927589&Category_Code=Wrangler6

    You may be able to contact the people on that site to find exactly what you're looking to find.

  • tracy3999tracy3999 Posts: 10
    Oh.. no they aren't the right weather stripping.. Yes it is a hard top.. Its the piece that goes on the bottom of the back window.. so when you shut it the rubber goes over the back bottom door a little... Thank you so much for helping me.. I think you are on a roll.. lol.. Thank you again.. Tracy
  • Did you ever fix the shake? I am having the same problem and I am beginning to think it may be my tires out of balance. It is starting to shake real bad around 50mph. I replaced the steering shock and turned my rotors on the front.
    I have a stock 2005 jeep wrangler unlimited.
  • have 93 wrangler and speedometer stopped working. We changed censor twice and do not have a cable its harness. need to pass inspection could it be computer or anything else
  • fnj7729fnj7729 Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me if it is worth the time and money to convert from a 2.5 I4 to the 4.0 I6?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It depends on you really. Some think it is a good upgrade. Others will say skip the 4.0 and just go to a V8.

    You MUST consider all the little things you have to do - transmission, transfer case (possibly), stronger axles. engine harness, radiator, hoses, motor mounts, etc. It is a lot more than just pulling the 2.5 out and putting something new in.

  • gblashkagblashka Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Wrangler SE that would not turn over so I had the battery and starter checked, turned out the battery was good and starter was bad. Replaced the starter and it still won't turn over. I checked to be sure everything was wired correctly and it is. So this brings me to my question. I'm down to replacing the ignition starter switch, but I can't figure out how to remove the steering column cover. I've removed the steering wheel and lock plate. The newer models have steering column covers in two pieces, but the '94 is one solid piece. The starter switch is right behind this cover and I need to slide it down somehow to get to the switch. If you have any idea on how to remove the steering column cover to get at the ignition starter switch please tell me. Spent the better part of two days trying to get to it. Thanks
  • 93cheep93cheep Posts: 1
    I have a 93 yj that came with the 4 banger. I now run a 83 k5 blazer complete drivetrain. I am running an inline universal pump that is 5.5-9 psi. The problem that I am having is that iI have went though 4 fuel pumps in about 2 months. It is wired to the switch side of the SHUTDOWN AUTO CIRCUIT. Not sure if the voltage on it exceeds over the 12v and that is what is burning them up or not. Can you tell me if that circuit varies with the output of the alt?
  • mohrlingmohrling Posts: 9
    I've recently rebuilt my 1988 Jeep Wrangler from top to bottom. The carburetor was recently rebuilt and installed. Now, unfortunatly the the vacum lines are and other air/EGR/PCV lines may need replacing and verified. Is there any data or rescorces that are available you may reccommend? I've the Chiltons book on this but frankly it's a labarynth of hoses, check-valves and whatnot? Or is it back to the garage?

  • mohrlingmohrling Posts: 9
    My '88 has a rubber windshield gasket. ">
  • there is a guy on ebay that carries or can get the vacuum hoses and lines you need and he can also fax you the vacuum diagrams for your specific jeep and motor size... very good guy and fast to respond.... here is his ebay name airparkcjd look him up and he can help you
  • davedenndavedenn Posts: 26
    I have an 83 CJ7 Jeep that I have removed the trans from and replaced the clutch. Now that I am attempting to replace it in the engine, it refuses to go enough to engage the spline gear. I have manually turned the engine many times, but it still refuses to go that last inch and a half. It appears to be aligned but just won't go. I greased the spline as required, so that is probably not the problem. Any suggestions?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Well, you can start by removing the grease from the splines. It will trap dirt and prevent the clutch from operating smoothly. If you want to use anything, use a dry graphite of the type used for lubricating locks.

    If all you have done is to replace the clutch, then either the friction plate is not properly centered, or the pilot bearing has moved or is damaged.
    Also, if you've allowed the weight of the transmission to hang on the clutch while trying to install it, you might have warped the center of the friction plate.
  • davedenndavedenn Posts: 26
    When I removed the transmission, I cleaned the spline and shaft well with brake cleaner and wiped it down before applying the thin layer of grease from the small packet that came with the new clutch. We did not replace the pilot bearing (it appeared in good shape) so that should not be an issue. We checked the alignment tool for mating with the old clutch, and it appeared a good match. As for the hanging part, we are using two 3 ton floor jacks to support the transmission, transfer case, and bell housing. The difficulty is the weight of the transfer case. I am considering removing it so the transmission won't be so heavy, but have never do one before. The Chilton manual is a bit hazy on the subject, so I reluctant to remove it. I may check the alignment of the clutch because I am not sure whether my son (who aligned it) considered the centering when bolting it on.

    Thanks for your suggestions. if you have any about removing the transfer case, please let me know.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    By all means remove the transfer case; it will not only reduce weight but give a better balance too.

    Centering the friction plate requires finesse, it isn't just a case of 'if the tool fits it must be good'.
    Start by mounting the clutch assembly to the flywheel with the alignment tool in place, but only lightly tighten the clutch cover bolts. The friction plate should be free to move when a little sideways pressure is applied to the tool.
    Using the tool, push the friction plate all the way up, then all the way down. The exact center of alignment in the vertical plane will be half way between the two positions.
    Now move the plate from one side to the other to find the center of alignment in the horizontal plane.
    The tricky part is maintain the center position in one plane while aligning the other, but you'll soon get a feel for it after practicing it a few times.
    Finally, torque down the cover housing to the correct setting and, just as important, in the correct order.

    Despite the grease packet that came with your clutch, I stand by what I said.
    The grease will hold both dust from the friction material and dirt, neither of which will contribute to the smooth operation of the clutch.
    Use a graphite lubricant which either comes as a dry powder or as graphite flakes suspended in a liquid carrier which will evaporate after application.
    Available from most hardware stores, here's a link to both types at ACE Hardware.
  • davedenndavedenn Posts: 26
    Someone mentioned earlier that this site contains a jeep repair manual. Does anyone know how I access it? I am trying to get some details on how to replace the U-Joint on my 83 Jeep CJ7.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Try Online Repair Manuals.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • fkelleyfkelley Posts: 4
    how do you get the shifter rod off so you can work inside to see if shift forks are the issue? it will not shift and it looks like someone was in it once.I have no clue as to how to repair this anyone had past issues?
  • fkelleyfkelley Posts: 4
    I just had that issue replaced feul pump,and hoses. also dropped tank cleaned with kerosine . RUNS GREAT NOW!!!!!!
  • I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler S 2.5 L. The problem I am having is when I start it will run real rough and idle will increase and decrease contiously. When i take off will be starving for fuel. When i run it on the road it will do good until I turn it off and will do the same thing. I have replaced the TPS and fuel filter. Anyone have anymore solutions. At this time not getting a check engine code
  • So I'm replacing the clutch in my '93 Wrangler with 4.0 engine and am having issues with removing the transmission/transfer case. All the bolts etc. are out, but it is binding up on the block. I am using a transmission lift but imagine there is a "sweet spot" that gives the best balance fore and aft. Any ideas?
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