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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • vavavolvo, an MBA, CPA, JD, MD, etc. has invested in him/herself in advanced education. During that time they had educational costs (at hugely subsidized rates, e.g., medical school) and, perhaps, just perhaps, some lost income which they would call "opportunity costs". Far too frequently IMHO, they leave professional or graduate school and whine about the loans they took out to make this investment in their human capital.

    The tradesman also has capital investments. These are the traditional investments made by a small business person. Machine tools, welders, computers, service vans, etc. etc. Clearly, a successful trades based business will have easily 200K in assets. Most, more. This is often more debt than a professional took on to purchase his assets.

    One difference is that the traditonal small business person usually doesn't whine about his debt load as does the small business person whose assets are in human capital like an MD. And there is less a feeling of entitlement; he doesn't think that someone else should have given him his assets. Some of this is often reflected in consumer behavior: the "professional" once through with school has less of need for capital and might pop for a new TLC. The small business guy might say, gee, I could pick up one more 3/4 ton service truck for another crew AND a Yukon for me to do sales calls in to grow the business for the price of a TLC. (One could argue that a business person who buys a TLC either has a stagnant business into which no more capital should be deployed or has more cash flow than his business plan can keep up with.)
  • Just replaced the head gasket on my 91 land cruiser - broke the air flow meter in the process - any suggestions on rebuilding it or where to purchase used??

  • Try a salvage yard?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    Though I've modified my suspension and have a lift, I think the 100 gives away very little, if anything, to the 80 series in off road capabilities (I'm sure many will disagree with me and say that real LCs have solid axles, just as old time BMW people say that real BMWs have round tail lights).

    You're comparing a difference in tail lights to a difference in suspension design?

    There is a large difference between independent and live axle suspensions with pros and cons to each design. For more than mild offroad, give me a live axle every time. Much easier to maintain and much cheaper to lift a live axle as well.
  • I'd like to see pics of a modified and lifter LC if they're available.
  • I'm not sure how you concluded from my post that I was comparing round tail lights to IFS. I was responding to blockisland's post and comments on his feeling that customer bases for BMW have changed and that maybe the same thing is happening to the LC customer base.

    To some long time BMW people (the round tail light set), the replacement of the 2002 with the 3series was a big mistake, just as live axle fans think Toy offering an IFS suspension on an LC is heresy.

    My point(s) was that many who are buying, or leasing BMWs and LCs these days are probably unaware of the rich history of these vehicles and the cult followings they created. Some who had the early offerings may feel a bit betrayed". I think if you re-read my post you'll see that my preference would also be for a solid axle LC, but having owned live axle LCs and now an IFS LC, I don't really think the IFS models are any less capable for the BULK of off road use. Do I think that there are situations where I'd like to have a RFS , of course, but it seems to me that you're assessment of the IFS LC is that it isn't much good for any thing other than jumping speed bumps.

    But, as I've already stated, these are my opinions based on my own experience. I agree with your points about the "ease" of raising a live axle v. IFS. Also, my 4WD needs are for snow, some ice, beach sand, and occasionaly some mud. I suspect your needs are much greater than mine.

    I know others that have both an 80 and 100 and are pretty adamant that the 100 gives away nothing to an 80. There were a lot of sneers from 40 and 60 guys when the 80s came out......until they started seeing them on the trail. Maybe you've judged these newer LCs a little to harshly?

    Mobi-hit me off line and I'll send you some pictures and explain the difference between the lift for the IFS LCs v. those for the solid axle ones.
  • fj100fj100 Posts: 97

    CLick on each gallery for more pics.

    Mine is the champagne one.

  • Is that an OME lift? From Slee Off-Road? What size BFG's?
  • fj100fj100 Posts: 97
    Yes, OME Lift, which includes 2 rear springs and 4 shocks. For the front - Sway away torsion bars. I purchased these before Slee had his on torsion bars for sale. Yes, all from

    285/75 R 16 BFG ATs - About 33 inches. You can go to 315/75 R16 's (35's) with a few more adjustments.

  • Do the 285/75 R 16 BFG ATs - About 33 inches require the lift? Or will the meats clear without the lift? Thanks.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    I'm not judging anyone, and I don't have anything against the 100. I don't like IFS. For my type of wheeling, live axle is better. It's also much easier to work on a live axle rig.

    Tail lights are not a functional item. A suspension change is major, and it represents a step in the softer direction. The 80 does better than the 40 and 60 offroad. Underneath the leather, it's a hard core rig.

    Ask '86 and later minitruck owners who take their rigs offroad what they think of IFS. A live axle conversion is a very common operation these days.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    BTW I would own a 100 if I could afford it. It's just not my choice for an offroad rig.
  • For crawling, most would agree with you. Those who have Hummers or do Score Baja-style racing will probably swear by the independant front & rear.
  • "There is a large difference between independent and live axle suspensions with pros and cons to each design. For more than mild offroad, give me a live axle every time. Much easier to maintain and much cheaper to lift a live axle as well."

    I have an Fj80, can some one fill me in a bit on the pros and cons of the axle I have and what I am missing, if anything?
  • hicairahicaira Posts: 276
    Your FJ 80 has live (solid) front and rear axles. Simple pro: better wheel articluation for tricky off road situations = less likely to "hang" a wheel which, with open diffs is a good way to get stuck or, more commonly, drag low hanging parts over the rocks. Also, they are probably more reliable (IFS will take more maintainemce and will not go as long without major service - like new CV joints and boots).
    Simple con: Road manners are a bit harsher and cornering (high speed especially) are not as good.
  • Has anyone ever removed a dashboard in a 100 Series? If so, any tips on the process would be appreciated. I have an annoying buzzing sound emanating from the center of my dash (only when accelerating) that I need to fix pronto.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • I requested that the K&N filters and Mobil synthetic be put in at my recent oil change - but my indy said that the addition cost (at least double or triple) would be way way over the fuel efficiency dollars saved.

    FYI: the front brake pads were down to the metal 25,000 after the previous change.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    Using the Toyota repair manuals and info from this site, I proceeded to remove the instrument cluster to replace a non working "D" indicator light in the dash. It was relatively easy to get apart, but I could not get the cluster past the steering wheel, although it had been suggested that it could be done. I may try it another time, but don't know if I want to tackle pulling the steering wheel.

    Is the buzz from the back of the dash rubbing against the windshield?
  • Grant. 25K for your front bads is pretty good wear. Plenty of folks with 80s get about half that. You may want to consider switching to TRD or similar pads. I upped my pad mileage from 30K to 50K when I did.

    Some 80 owners are putting 100 pads on thier rigs. I think there's some modification needed though.

    Maybe Idaho doug knows about this?
  • As a follow-up to my earlier message regarding the removal of a dashboard in a 100 series, the buzz that I mentioned (emanating from the center of the dash)only happens in cold weather (55 degrees or below) and gets better (but doesn't totally abate) as the temperature of the cabin increases. My follow-up question is whether this noise could be the heat shield problem found on the 1998 models (I have a 98). Thus, for those who had faulty heat shields replaced on their 98 (HiC?), did the noise from these shields sound like it was coming from inside the dash? IMO, it sounds like my problem is something other than the heat shields.

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    " requested that the K&N filters and Mobil synthetic be put in at my recent oil change - but my indy said that the addition cost (at least double or triple) would be way way over the fuel efficiency dollars saved.

    FYI: the front brake pads were down to the metal 25,000 after the previous change. "

    I would say no to the K&N filter and yes to the Mobil One 5w30 synthetic oil.

    K&N filters let in far too much particulate matter past the stock oem filter. For long term reliability and cleanliness for me that is unacceptable. This is documentable and comparable. You can do before and after oil analysis looking at specifically silicon (levels) migration into the oil.

    The Mobil One 5w30 can be seen in light of it is a superior oil but at what price/cost? To me, I have been doing 15k intervals for app 660k and above in TLC's. The easiest way to see the dramatic cost reduction is to do a per mile lubricated % comparison! Depending on your interval and numbers it can be quite dramatic. To start you off 4 dollars qt x 7 qt=28 + 4 dollars (oem oil filter=$ 32./15000= .0021333 cents per mile lubricated.

    Insofar as brake pads I have heard as little as 12,000 miles needing new pads. On my fj80's it has ranged from 30-50k. I have switched over to TRD front pads but haven't gotten the longevity results. They do dust more but the stopping power is SOTP increased! :)
  • hicairahicaira Posts: 276
    If it is the heat shields you will be able to tell quite simply: roll down your window and if the sound is louder outside than inside, then that may be it. If fact, IIRC, I couldn't hear the heat shield rattle with the windows up.

    I have an annoying buzzing in my dash too, BTW. Intermittent, near the windshield, in front of the driver. Chasing these things can be like stepping on a bubble in the carpet though: the process of eliminating one may create others. Not that that ever stopped me from trying....

  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    What about those annoying squeaks from the dash and door trim, especially when off road or on bumpy roads? Is there an easy fix? Has anyone tried any lubricant spray, Armor-All, or placing felt between the trim and solid surfaces? I noticed when I took the instrument cluster off, there was felt used between the plastic, I suppose to dampen or prevent noises?

    After re-reading a post from someone about replacing the dash light, I realized I hadn't removed the steering column cover, probably why I couldn't get the cluster out of there.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Does any one know of a good block heater to heat a 94 FZJ80 4.5 I-6? I have been looking around for some and even contacted the local dealership, and Sleeoffroad and they didnt give me any usefull sources...
    Any help will be apreciated, thanks.
  • Can I get a block heater for a Fj80?
  • From your report it would appear that the Mobil synthetic doesnt require as frequent oil changes as regular oil - is this true? I change oil every 5,000 or so with regular oil.
  • Are there any real advantages by using platinum spark plugs? I don’t live in snow area.

    I am also thinking about switching to aftermarket shocks to get better handling and stability, but will they also make the ride very harsh?

    Grantchstr, since I switched to Mobil synthetic, the oil change interval went from 4K to 8K. I remember reading it from the Mobil website that you can basically double your old oil change schedule by going synthetic, because it will take longer for synthetic oil to break down or something like that…
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I don't think K&N advertises fuel efficiency on their web site (although some of the testimonials may). Check out K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? if you want more.

    My dead dino oil gets changed at 7,500 mile intervals (per the manual)... ah, it's best not to get me started on dumping good oil down the drain :-). Check out the oil wars in Synthetic motor oil and Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2.

    Steve, Host
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    "From your report it would appear that the Mobil synthetic doesn't require as frequent oil changes as regular oil - is this true? I change oil every 5,000 or so with regular oil. "

    Yes this is true! I also realize the almost absolute resistance to going to longer synthetic oil change intervals. If you do change 5k with conventional oil, 10k with synthetic is not a stretch at all. While there are some conventional oils that rival group three hydro cracked synthetic oils, it is probably best to overcome one hurdle at a time.

    In my own case, I had 5 TLC's all with 15k synthetic oil changes(Mobil One 5w-30) and absolutely no ill effect. I still have two of the five. On some 91,94.96,97,there was an valve inspection requirement at 60k. All were said to be within factory specifications with little to almost no wear. (these were serviced by dealer mechanics) If you are inclined to switch to synthetic, a good graphic comparison will be in the oil analysis. However, the cost effectiveness breaks down due to the 18-25 dollars for oil analysis. Suffice to say that you can also do oil analysis on conventional oils. But as you can see in the above sentence, it is easy to see that while one should do analysis on conventional oils probably more than on synthetic, 18-25 is not economically good when you can get an oil change for approximately that much. There are web sites that document oil analysis results of different synthetic as well as conventional oils, and of course different cars mileages etc.. I would read those sites and only do the individual analysis if you are highly skeptical or suspect a trend line problem.
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