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Have you recently tried to lease a vehicle again after your last lease ended, and found that average monthly payments have gone so far up that you decided to get a cheaper vehicle with a lower monthly payment or purchase a used car?
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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • ironside7ironside7 Posts: 38
    Mark:

    I have not yet been able to fix or diagnose the dashboard buzzing. I'm currently trying to build up enough courage to start ripping apart the dash to find out what is causing it. My current plan is to try and first remove the instrument cluster to see if I can visualize the source of the noise that way. I'll let you know whatever I find out. Please do the same.

    Ironside
  • tlcman:

    Thanks for responding on the maintenance type issues on the TLC. I appreciate your feeback.

    I am also very sorry to hear of your horrible accident. I am glad you and your sister are safe. I am sure you will be able to replace the TLC soon. Blessings to you and your sister.

    Thanks again for your generous comments.

    Scott
  • steelcruiser:

    Thanks for the helpful guidance. This was the most detailed and direct information about what to potentially expect if we buy one.

    I am wanting a TLC for safety, reliability, and style. Also, if we get one at a lower price due to age and mileage, we can save monthly payment dollars. I just want to make sure that the monthly savings compared to a BMW car payment, will not be offset by increased maintenance bills during the year.

    Thanks,
    Scott
  • BB-No problem. I've had my share of BMWs too and the LC is higher in quality (IMHO) than any one I ever had. To add a bit to the topic of repairs etc, axle jobs can be about $1000 + or -, complete brake rotor/pad replacements around $600+ or more. A rebuilt starter about $350 etc, etc,etc. These are just ball park estimates for you if these items are done by a dealer.

    I suggest you get the Factory Service Manual and do as much maintenance as you can yourself because you can save a lot of money and pick up a new hobby in the process =))

    But, get an LC and fix it up like you want it and I think you'll be ridin' high and enjoying life!
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    What about the catalytic converter and assembly? This piece of equipment costs over $2,400, the question is what sort of mileage can you get from a Fj80 before the cat assembly needs replacing, and is there a cheaper alternative?
  • steenh1steenh1 Posts: 28
    HiC,
    So, if I do the math right, I'm looking at $130 and 6 beers to do both antennas... the kid will certainly help! Thanks for the info.

    Steenh
  • Good question! I don't know. I got 10 years and 150+K out of my 80 series and no problems.

    Wonder what some place like Meineke would charge? Hopefully, there are some non OEM alternatives that would be easier on the wallet. Sorry I don't have any first hand info or suggestions for you.
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    Three or four days ago my '04 LC started making a strange whistling noise shortly after starting when you put it in gear and move a few feet forward or back. It doesn't do it when cold but after running, turned off for a short time and restarted. After you get going it stops making the whistling sound. Sounds like it comes from the back of vehicle but am not sure. Sounds very much like a factory whistle blowing and is somewhat loud at times. It doesn't do it every time and of course did not do it when I took it to the dealership today. Any idea what could cause this? The dealer said there was nothing they could do without hearing it.
    This is in no way a wind noise as it does it while setting still.

    Thanks
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Posts: 252
    Could it be one of the belts making this noise ? I can't think of anything else under your rig that could be making this sound. You don't have air-suspension .. do you or was it just an LX feature ?
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    No air-suspension on LCs.
    One suggestion is the gas cap, as it has a vent and it could be faulty,will check it out the next time the whistling starts.

    Thanks
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    The gas cap on my '03 LC makes a funky noise after driving for a while and parking it. Almost sounds like a soft beating noise. Once I discovered the noise I opened up the cap while it was creating the noise and the noise stopped. I did notice pressure relief.
  • hichic Posts: 8
    If you have the climate control in automatic mode it may be that when you first start up it is blowing more air than the rear vents can accomodate. Mine does this all the time if the interior of the car is warmer than the auto setting. The vents will whistle until the climate control settles down and starts to equalize the temp. You can test this easily by either cracking a window or turning the fan to the off position next time it happens. You can also switch the re-circ/vent setting to see if this makes has any impact. Also, make sure your rear vent windows are completely closed since if they are barely open, they will whistle when the fan runs on the higher settings.

    HiC
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Its just pressure relief, its like shaking up a gas can it create pressure so its nothing to be worried about
  • mobiweldmobiweld Posts: 99
    Anyone running BFG A/T 295/75/R16 and if so, are there any clearance problems with a stock suspension?

    Thanks,

    Scott
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    are you off roading? you could get some rubbing on flares and and flaps but i ran 35's on my 94' lc and it had a 2.5 inch lift and i didnt have many problems
  • eastcareastcar Posts: 6
    I have a new Toyota Land Crusier, any thoughts on using synthetic oil, does toyota reccomend it and which brand is best, I have heard Castrol?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Don't know of any "prohibitions" on synthetics from Toyota. I'm running synthetics ('02 LC) in crank case, TCase and diffs.

    Owner's Handbook has Do It Yourself section and recommended change intervals, oil, gear lube specs etc.

    I'm using Valvoline in the crank and Redline in the TCase and diffs.

    To ease your mind a bit, you might check with your dealer

    HTH
  • eastcareastcar Posts: 6
    Thanks, will look into it.
  • I posted a question here a few months ago about recommended transmission oil interval changes without any actual replies. I've called Toyota and asked them specifically about that and their reply was that it is a serviceless transmission if the oil is a clear red "as new" color. The rep stated that I can drive an unlimited # of miles as long as the transmission oil looks good. Otherwise a drain and fill when and if the oil gets dirty looking..I also asked about Synthetic oil and Toyota's statement was we don't recommend synthetics..
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    FWIW I drain (pan only) and refill about every 10K on my '02. A side by side comparison of the fluid color (new to old) shows a little less red than the new fluid.

     Scheduled Maintenance Guide suggests inspect at 15K and replace at 30K for special operating conditions.
  • alatlcalatlc Posts: 3
    The steering wheel of my '99 TLC has started making an annoying creaking noise. The creak appears during very gradual maneuvers to the left (i.e. going around a slight curve or adjsuting while traveling down the road)when the steering wheel is between 10 and 11 o'clock. It doesn't happen on the right side, nor does it happen when making sharper low speed turns (i.e. a 90 degree left). The creak is coming from the area where the steering wheel attaches to the column, right behind the blinker stalks, etc. I can't figure out what it is, and I'm reluctant to starting squirting lubricants into that area. Has anyone else had this problem? Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks
  • eastcareastcar Posts: 6
    Thanks.
  • Is there a specific volume you're adding when you do your drain/fill at 10K intervals? Are you using Toyota ATF fld? Thanks.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    It's about 4 qts. Add about 3.5 qts (after draining the pan) via the fill tube ( after removing the dip stick) at rear of engine bay, near fire wall. Start engine and let idle in PARK. Check level via dip stick. Slowly add a bit of fluid until it's filled to proper level. (Careful removing and replacing the dip stick--it's long and thin--and notice the "clip" on one side that has to be pushed out of the way in order to remove and replace the dip stick)

    There are 4 "notches" on the dip stick--two near the bottom and pretty close together, and two a bit further up the stick and with more space between them. If you look closely at these upper marks you'll see HOT etched in to one side of the stick. Fill with fluid until the level is at about the middle of these two marks. Again, this is done with the engine running so that you get the proper level.

    I like to compare the color of the old fluid to that of the new by putting a bit of the old on a clean paper towel. If you do the pan drain and fill about every 10K, the color of the old fluid should be pretty close to the same red as the new fluid.

    And, yes, I use Toy ATF.

    HTH
  • I have been looking into buying a LC for some time now, and am getting close to finally giving in. Not quite sure why, given current gas prices, but well...
    I have a pretty basic question. I want to pick up a used 100 series and want to spend in the $25-30k range. It seems like I have a choice of older ('98/99) with lower mileage (<60k), or a '00/01 model with higher mileage (>85k). What is the accepted wisdom, is it preferable to go with lower mileage, higher age? I'm planning on keeping it for a loooong time, with minimal off-roading (so locking differentials, etc. isn't quite as important), but with lots of driving in the mountains in the snow. It appears that features that became standard in 2000 are usually also found in the earlier models, so that doesn't seem to be a differentiator. Any thoughts on which one would be the better buy as far as reliability and service/maintenance costs go? Thanks!
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    My opinion and what I used to decide on a newer model with higher mileage was that I was getting more "bang for my buck." Granted, I went from looking at an 84 FJ60 to a 90 FJ62 to a 92 FJ80 and eventually bought a 99 UZJ100 with the same amount of miles as the older ones, but many more features. The most important thing to me was the maintenance history and overall condition of the vehicle, which was excellent. It is worth taking extra time and finding the one that is "just right."
  • Thanks for your thoughts. Of course, the features between the 98/99 models and the 00/01 models seem almost identical for practical purposes, given that the used earlier ones on the market pretty much all have the options that became standard with the 00 model year. I had the same considerations as you that made me decide to go with the 100 series over the 80. I guess my question is, does age impact reliability more or less than mileage? I may be overanalyzing this as I have seen LCs with well over 200k miles, and there also seem to be lots in excess of 20 years old still on the road. But if service history were identical, would it make more sense to go with an older vehicle, or a later model year that has more miles on it? Which one would be less likely to give me trouble in the long run?
  • tlc_utahtlc_utah Posts: 28
    Seattlecruiser,

    I was in the same boat till yesterday. I picked up a 01 LC with nav + 4 tv screens in headrests and 69K miles for around $26K. This is my second LC. Earlier one was a '00 which I had bought it when it had 26K miles. Honestly, I cannot make out the difference in my 00 LC with 26K miles and this 01. In my case too I plan to keep it for a long time. One feature that you may want if you drive in mountains and especially in snow is Vehicle Skid Control (VSC). This was introduced only in 2000. This is a great feature to have while driving in snow. It totally controls the vehicle and does not let it skid. You would know what I am talking about if you are driving on ice in the middle of the night and come up on a stop sign. Instead of vehicle stopping it just skids thru the stop sign. I had a similiar situation and VSC immediately took over and brought the vehicle to a total stop without skidding.

    Hope this helps.

    Good Luck
  • Thanks, TLC_Utah! This was very helpful.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    As you've noted, LC "options" have a way of becoming "standard" as the model years progress. The newer model seems like a good option for you, given your intention to keep this for a long time. Obviously, the biggest depreciation hit has been absorbed by someone else.

    If you'll be driving other vehicles or not putting on a lot of miles per year, the higher mileage doesn't seem like a big issue. It's very helpful if you can review the vehicle's service history.

    Let us know when you get your "new" LC

    Enjoy!
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