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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • coupedncalcoupedncal Posts: 252
    Sorry to hear about your illness. As for gasoline prices, please allow me to offer a different perspective. We in the US tend to live our lives thinking cheap gasoline is our birth right. We want the world to cater to our whims and we go to any extent to make sure we get inexpensive gas. We on one hand don't want big govt in our lives but we are perfectly ok letting the govt subsidize our gas prices (by keeping the taxes low and through our foreign policies). If you really remove these artificial conditions and let the market decide the price, we'd be paying the true price for it. We need to wonder why is it that we are not able to twist other nations' arm to sell us automobiles at prices that favor us but we are perfectly ok in doing so for gasoline.

    Nothing against the original poster. And thanks for letting me blow my steam.
  • steenh1steenh1 Posts: 28
    Subsidized gas would mean that the government was actually paying for the gas and giving it to us. Keeping taxes low is not a subsidy, it's policy and I would argue that the taxes really aren't that low... just much lower than in other countries.

    The high prices of gas in other countries isn't due to market prices... it's due to government overtaxing a commodity. Gas costs roughly the same in Europe as it does here... they just tax the crap out of it.

    I like it our way better.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    The Europeans have it right. Gas should be highly taxed. Gas is a scarce resource to start with and high prices ensure efficiency and energy conservation. In addition those high taxes on gas are used someplace else in government spending - like FREE HEALTH CARE WE DONT HAVE IN THE US.

    Lets face it we waste gas in the US hand over fist and that thinking also trashes our public transportation system. We have a lousy train and commuter system in most cities.

    In conclusion: there is no way I would drive a non-diesel Landcruiser in the UK at $6.50 a gallon I can tell you that. But in the US I do and so I waste gas!
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Posts: 252
    I agree with grantchstr about taxation on gasoline in the US. With inexpensive gas available to us, we consume much more of it and don't spend enough resources attempting to seek out alternate sources for energy. What is the incentive for us to look elsewhere when we pay less for gas at the pump than what we pay for retail "branded" bottled water. The US is a nation of 275 million people (about 4% of world population) and we consume any where between 30% to 40% of oil resources (depending on which study you go by). This is excessive, in my opinion, even for our consumption oriented society.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,982
    This is a shameless plug for the IRS. There is nothing to prevent you from sending the IRS a check for the difference in the price of gas say 6.50 vs 2.24 per gal. calculated on your yearly consumption level.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Posts: 99
    Since when is taxation an appropriate mechanism to affect product pricing? If you want socialized healthcare (like in Europe), that money has to come from somewhere. Americans love their gas guzzling vehicles. As gas prices increase, perhaps the out-of-pocket expense for gas will adjust our collective love for SUV's to something smaller and more effecient. The concept of increasing gas taxes to facilitate change seems counter productive, as this will increase the costs associated with our entire oil-based economy, including most goods and services we enjoy. Food transportation costs will increase, road work, textiles, manufacturing....everything uses oil.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    This is from a previous thread- has anyone else had this problem? My '99 is doing the same thing. It takes several tries for the engine to turn over, but I can hear a clicking noise (like a solenoid). The battery and alternator checked out OK, and different keys have not made a difference. Sorry about the long pasted post, but this sounds identical to my problem and it was never followed up on the board.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------ - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------ --------

    #2789 of 3797 Starter engages but doesn't crank by ndorsey Jun 13, 2003 (12:03 pm)
    Has anyone experienced this problem?
    This is a 99 LC, Starter engages but doesn't crank, after the second or third try the truck will start. I tried it with both keys thinking it may the emmobilizer but does the same thing. After starting I shut down and it will repeat it self.
    I thought it was a weak battery, or loose connections but everything is good, I thought it was a flat spot on the armature but not sure.

    Possible computer?

    Any suggestions would be helpful

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ - - - - - ---------------
    #2790 of 3797 ndorsey by scifi Jun 13, 2003 (12:47 pm)
    I currently have a couple of keys without the immobilizer chip in them. The engine will crank over but will not start as the fuel and ignition systems have not been activiated.

    Now, I have heard that the engine may fail to start if: the engine immobilizer system key's ring is over the top of the key; a Mobil-type transponder is on the key ring; or if another immobilizer key is on the same key ring.

    If your vehicle doesn't crank then you can rule out the immobilizer. If the battery is good, my first thought to you would be to look at the starter.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
    #2791 of 3797 ndorsey by idahodoug Jun 13, 2003 (4:57 pm)
    You need to do a bit more on describing what's happening. For instance, you say the starter "engages", but "doesn't crank". Most people consider an engine cranking over when the starter engages and the engine is spinning. Starting means the engine has caught and is now spinning under it's own power.

    Simply getting a single loud click under the hood, but no engine movement is another typical problem.

    Tell us more specifically what you hear and feel with an eye toward putting us in mentally in your car.


    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
    #2792 of 3797 idahodoug by ndorsey Jun 13, 2003 (5:45 pm)
    For instance, you say the starter "engages", but "doesn't crank" - Yes the bendix actually engages into the flywheel as if its going to start, but it doesn't rotate the flywheel.

    My first thought was Battery, but the batt. is good

    It does this about two or three times then it starts. When I shut the engine down it repeats the same sequence.

    Does that help any?


    #2794 of 3797 starter by bryan28 Jun 14, 2003 (12:23 am)
    sounds like a bad starter, if I'm understanding you. It sounds like the starter is shorting out. What happens to the electrical system when it is trying to turn over? Check how much current the starter is drawing when trying to start. What is the sound when it is trying to turn over?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    And with the starter question, let's get back to the topic. Thanks,

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    What is this discussion about? Toyota Land Cruiser.

    If you want to talk gas in general, try the Your Gas Mileage: Facts & Figures discussion or CAFE Standards; In Line or In Need of Adjustment?, or one of the other topics in News & Views.

    People come here (mostly) to talk about the TLC, not health care or gas taxes. Thanks,

    Steve, Host
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    For all but a handful of people, cheap gas is the only way to justify a vehicle like the LC with its heavy gas consumption. It now costs me $50-$60 to fill up. There have been discussions about how to improve mpg efficiency on the LC. I dont see why its such a big deal to have a couple of threads about the other side of this equation - about the cost of gas and the components of its price. Perhaps those discussions are best served on the Boards you mention but most LC owners - or their wallets - are directly affected by high gas prices.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Maybe for new LC buyers, rather than those who've owned them for many years. And keep in mind there are lots of other SUVs to choose from. LCs are a rather small percentage of SUVs, in the US, though I believe they're the best selling worldwide.

    If you're a LC devotee, gas mileage is a "nice to have", but not a deal breaker. Would be interesting to know if LC sales have slipped since the gas prices have spiked upward. And consider what other LC owners in the rest of the world pay for their gas.
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Posts: 252
    I don't believe the discussion around the gas consumption and prices takes away anything from the goodness of this terrific rig. If anything, as mentioned by others here, it will move this truck out of hands of status hungry buyers and into hands of people who really appreciate it for its true purpose. In my humble opinion, it is more car than the use it currently gets (generally speaking of course) in suburbia america.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    coupe--that's exactly what I was trying to say. You just said it a heck of a lot better. I'd guess that most of us who post here are LC "nuts", have probably owned more than one, and don't consider this (mileage) an issue.

    My observation here in So Cal is that LCs are still in demand. I don't see many advertised and no special blow out prices. When I do see one at a dealer, it's usually gone within a day or so. Same for used ones.
  • I'm considering a '98 LC to be used as the weekend family hauler. I work from home, so I don't have a commute. I also do not plan to do any off-roading in the car.

    Considerations are price (mid/high $ teens) and safety (doesn't seem to be a problem with the tank-like LC).

    1. What should I look for in a high milage (100K+ miles) LC?

    2. I'm used to doing all my auto work myself (with the exception of tire mounting and alignments) but I'm concerned about cost of replacement parts.

    3. Since I'm in Southern Cal, any possible issues buying one that's lived close to the ocean?
  • mobiweldmobiweld Posts: 99
    3) I lived lived one block from the ocean for during college. I did have the truck garaged at night which makes a big difference, but I didn't have any rusting issues. My Wife (girlfriend at the time) parked her Jeep Cherokee outside and it's rusted quite nicely.

    2) Parts cost what they cost. It aint a Taurus. So far with about 105,000 miles on a '98, the only "biggy" items were a water pump and the timing belt, both of which were labor-intensive and not particularly expensive parts.

    1) As mine is at 105k, I'm not the best person to comment. My water pump was leaking and discovered during timing belt replacement. Aside from that, spark plugs, fluids, tires,....nothing but normal wear-n-tear items.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    As you may have read from earlier posts, I bought a 99 last June with 116,500 miles on it. My primary considerations were:

    1. A one owner vehicle with complete service records available.
    2. The look and feel of the vehicle. It was extremely clean, and after some new tires, drove very well.

    If you are familiar with maintenance, crawl under a few Landcruisers and look at the suspension and driveline. you'll be impressed how solid everything is put together.

    As far as parts, look at Toyota Wholesale Parts at They are friendly, knowledgeable, efficient, and less expensive than dealer prices.

    Just my opinion, but you might consider a 99 or newer, since 98 was the first year for the 100 series. I haven't seen more problems reported, but am always curious about the "kinks" being worked out. I suppose after 6-7 years, any kinks would have shown up by now. I saw one 98 on sale on ebay with about 216,000 miles on it.

    Just one more thing- if you are fortunate enough to find one, do that beauty a favor and take her off road, at least every once in a while, at least in the snow or something. Every Landcruiser deserves it. :)
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    Paris: The city council voted Tuesday to urge Socialist Mayor Bertrand Delanoe to consider banning SUVs, which have become popular in recent years and now make up about five percent of the French car market -- just below the western Europe average.

    With apologies.
  • So mine has failed at 68k. Can here the motor run etc. I am thinking I need to replace something. The antenna is curved and doens't extend and retract easily so I figured it just broke after a while. So how do I get to the motor?
  • hichic Posts: 8
    It's a bit of a pain. First, Block the rear tires, apply e-brake and jack up the right front (as if you were changing the tire) and put a jack stand under the frame. Remove the tire for better access. Inside the wheel well you will see a plastic cowel (for want of a better word) that is held in place by a series of plastic screw-plugs and some hex bolts (at least for my '98, anyway). the screw-plugs are easy to remove with a phillips screw driver. Half a turn cc and then pop them out. They are easy to break though, so be prepared to replace one or two (buy a couple of spares when you get the new mast). Once all those and the hex bolts are off you can remove the cover and get some access to the mast motor. Next, unscrew the chrome ring on top of the antenna mast (on top of the fender where the antenna nests - This may require a special tool but if you are creaful you can make do without). Next, remove the antenna cable from the motor (careful here: Some unscrew or can be pried out but others can only be disconnected by partially disassembling the motor) and then remove the bolts holding the motor in it's mount. That should allow you to take the whole thing out. You can replace the whole unit (about $150 IIRC) or just the mast for less than half that. The mast replacement is also a pain but be patient - or ready to hand it off to a mechanic - and you'll be fine.

    Good luck. My description is based off memory here and nothing more, so you may want to confirm with more authoritative resources before taking things apart.

  • njpaguynjpaguy Posts: 55
    Just thought I'd share some info and observations after 3 years/94,000 miles of driving my 01 TLC:

    Only engine-related issue: bearings failed on one tension pulley for serpentine belt (replaced under warranty).

    Only other mechanical issue: seat catch/release for rear jump seat never quite worked properly from factory. Replaced assembly with new unit.

    Changed axle/xfer case/trans fluid every 30,000 miles (Mobil 1). Also fuel filter and EGR valve every 30,000 miles.

    Changed engine oil every 5,000 miles (Mobil 1 5W30; 0W30 for winter driving) w/K&N Oil Filters.

    Lubed driveshaft grease fittings OFTEN.

    Only 93 octane gasoline. 17+ mpg highway/average a bit over 15 mpg around town.

    Added one bottle of Techron every 10,000 miles.

    Best aftermarket item: TRD front & rear sway bars. The TLC was always a great handling vehicle. With the addition of these factory designed sway bars it transforms the TLC. Dare I say "nimble?" E-mail me for info on how to get them: [email protected] (NOTE: I'm not selling them; will provide contact information of dealer via e-mail).

    Tire to avoid: Yokohama Geolandar G051. Reason: side walls are too soft. Makes the TLC driving characteristics constantly changable. It's a shame too, because they're extremely quiet, have a superb ride, and are excellent in the wet.

    Excellent highway tire: Bridgestone Dueler H/P D680. Had to +1 (P285/70HR16) because not available in 275. Quiet, good ride, superb handling (especially in combination with the TRD sway bars). Maybe not able to match the Porsche Cayenne through the twisties, but again the word "nimble" can now be used to describe driving the TLC.

    Looking forward to enjoying the next 94,000 miles just as trouble free. Hope you're enjoying the same.
  • tuition06tuition06 Posts: 20
    My 97 LX 450 has 60,000 on it. Bought it with 30,000 miles with extended warranty til Jan 04. Never had one problem in the four years I've had it. The A/C unit failed last week. Dealer diagnosis was two fold. Number 1: The fan clutch failed providing inadequate cooling ($240.00 at Ray Catena Lexus). When the AC system was brought back online, a few leaks were detected, service and replacement of all leaking "O rings" for the fee of apprx. $600.00. I understand the costs involved. Is this type of repair and service expected? Appreciate your input.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    with O rings and there is no way that that should run a 600 dollar bill... o rings cost about 5 cents to 5 dollars, and installing them on componets is not time consuming or hard...Im sorry to say but they riped you off... but you should not have anymore problems!
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    The A/C compressor seazed up on my '91 Fj80 at approx 70,000 miles (out of warranry just unfortunately). I had to cut the appropriate belt in order to be able to drive. I havent repaired it yet as I guess I am too cheap to fork out well over a $1,000 for the fix. Still, its one of the few problems I have had - the A/C also failed on my Volvo so I guess its more of an A/C problem than it is a Toyota problem.
  • ddw78ddw78 Posts: 16
    Anyone had the pleasure of changing out the starter on a '98 TLC? The dealer is telling me that it's 6.3 hours because its under the intake manifold. Sheesh!! Is it really that miserable of a job to R&R?

    I'm not totally confident in their diagnosis, but the battery is good and it suddenly has developed a tendency to not want to crank the engine unless you give it a couple of tries. (crank as in the starter motor turning the engine over.) When it does crank, it cranks a little slow, then starts. Have about 100,000 miles on it, this is its first problem.

    On another note, now have about 30,000 miles on a set of Brigestone Dueller A/T REVO tires on it. They were a major improvement over the Dueller HS skins that I pulled off. Quiet, with good snow traction, considering.


  • ddw78ddw78 Posts: 16
    While fooling with gettting the starter done... I think I'll change out the timing belt (at 100k miles.) Just curious, does the 4.7 v-8 bend valves if the belt fails?


  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    I'm not surprised about the starter estimate. I posted just a couple of weeks ago about this same problem on my 99. When I looked at the service manual, I was amazed what all had to come off of there to access that thing. I don't think I would try to tackle it by myself, although apparently there are rebuild kits for the starter. I never figured out why mine was doing what you described, but the problem seems to have gone away, at least temporarily.

    As far as the timing belt, I believe the service manual calls for replacement at 90K, and previous posters said you don't want it to break for fear of damage. Go ahead and get it replaced.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Posts: 99
    Timing belt was changed at 90k on my '98 at it was ready. Look at water pump too. The starter, along with the alternator, are the components with the highest failure rate on any vehicle. As such, it's amazingly stupid to locate those items in areas that are difficult to access. Starter location has been a gripe from Lexus techs early on, as it requires the engine to be elevated to access the starter. Lots of brain-damage for a wear item like that.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    And to make it even more frustrating, it's often the contacts, not the starter motor itself, that are the problem
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    ddw78- Did you have your starter replaced? Did it correct the problem?
  • amsiotamsiot Posts: 2
    Hello, everyone! I just wanted to tell you all that I have learned so much by reading your postings in the past months.

    I got my 04 TLC for $53,783 (not including taxes) for the basic model with the four manufacturer packages. Does anyone know if this is a good deal?

    In addition, would you recommend to buy the extended warranty 7yr/100K for $1,600? It is not offered by the manufacturer, but a third party, JM&A Group.

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