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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • memphistlcmemphistlc Posts: 10
    Who makes the shocks for late model TLC' it Toyota? I love the ride on my 2000 and want to replace the shocks on my '99 Isuzu Trooper with similar shocks.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Center diff is the only one that's standard on this vehicle--front and rear lockers were an option.
  • Has anyone put a K&N intake kit on to a 2000 Land Cruiser? If so, how much power gain did you feel, how was gas millage affected, and how was the sound?
  • memphistlcmemphistlc Posts: 10
    I didn't put the kit on but I did put a K&N filter in my 2000 recently. Too early to tell and not sure I'll really be able to discern. I figure that a simple mod like a K&N can only help all the way around.
  • Hi, I just picked up a 1997 TLC. How do you guys change your oil? The filter is located up top so I am afraid to dump oil from there. Can I just unscrew it let it drip down to a pan on the floor or do u guys have a special way to stick a longneck funnel somehow? Also, Has anyone installed a K&N on the 97 version? Whats the recommended /best spark plugs and wires to use? Thanks in advance guys. John
  • Hi, Thanks for the reply. When I referred to "invoice" I am describing Dealer Invoice, not MSRP. I got my '06 LC for $800 over dealer invoice + $500 to Cartelligent, for a total of $1,300 over dealer invoice, and about $6,000 below MSRP. Thanks.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    You might try wrapping a "baggie" around the filter as you loosen it to minimize oil dripping down the side of the block, even so it's almost unavoidable to not have some oil drip down and on the top of the axle housing. It's pretty tight in there and if the filter's on real snug, you'll probably need to use a filter wrench. As access is a problem from the top, I go underneath to get a filter wrench on the filter and break it free. Just wipe off the oil from the side of the block, top of the axle etc after you remove the filter before putting the new one on. And smear some oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter before you install it.

    I'd stick with factory recommended plugs and wires.

  • Is it worth it to switch to a full synthetic oil verses a conventual oil?
  • bradespbradesp Posts: 21

    I'm looking to buy a used Landcruiser year 1999 or 2000 or a Sequoia year 2001 or 2002. Aside from the Sequoia being newer, are there any other pros' / con's to looking at purchasing one of these two vehicles?


  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    I believe that the Landcruiser, as it is manufactured in Japan, has a significant import tax included in its price. In other words the Sequoia, manufactured in the US, has a significant price advantage. This proce diferential will also be reflected of course in used proces. Most on this website will opine that the price diff is worth it.
  • gwhigwhi Posts: 4
    Just purchased a 1999 LC yesterday. I am very upset. Did not notice this when I test drove the vehicle. I just hope this is not serious.Please.... Anybody have any ideas on what the clunking could be when shifting into P to R or from R to D or P to D????
  • cumbycumby Posts: 6
    I have been considering purchasing a used 96-98 model LC. I am impressed with what I hear about reliability but Im concerned about the cost of owning one. I would love to get some input on how expensive these trucks are to drive. Does the fact that they rarely need maintenance ( so Ive been told) offset the gas mileage, and other maint costs?
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    You have hit the nail on the head - the high gas consumption of my LC is more than offset by its low maintenance cost. I have had a 1991 Fj80 from new and have saved a ton on maintnance compared to my other cars during that time. I purchased an extended warranty but never needed it - although my A/C failed right after warranty expiry. Sure its heavy on front brakes but thats hardly a dealbreaker.
  • You're not providing a lot of details....some sort of change or "clunk" is normal in the shifts you mention..especially if you're on any kind of incline. Without being there to see what you're describing, this sounds like it might be the typical drive shaft clunk as momentum changes. (e.g. if you're pulling in to the garage and you're still moving a bit, you'll get a clunk if you put it in park) Remember, you've got two drive shafts, two differentials and a transfer case, all of which have some travel play in them by design. This type of clunk is common on LCs and can usually be "cured" by lubing the drive shafts at the differential and transfer case ends.

    Have you checked the transmission fluid level?

    Suggest you get it checked out and see if might not just need to lube your diffs
  • mobiweldmobiweld Posts: 99
    Common issue when the drive shafts have not been lubricated.
  • niffy37niffy37 Posts: 1
    We have a 03 TLC and have found that the doors don't seem to always shut very tightl . About three times a week, there's a door that hasn't been shut tightly and we are big people we close them pretty hard. The dealer said it had to do with the air vent system , but didn't really give me a straight answer. Anybody have this issue , ideas about how to resolve? thanks
  • Just crack a window or two a bit, then close your door(s).
  • vichvich Posts: 1
    Anyone have overload problems with air suspension...and what is the cure? rip our the air bits and put in a whole new suspension (such as Old Man Emu) or to put in "helper" air bags which fit inside the coils?
  • gwhigwhi Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply-Basically when you back out of the drive way (flat surface)... come to a complete stop (foot firmly on the brake) shift into drive. That is when you get the clunk. Sometimes you notice it.... other times you don't.

    The transmission fluid level is fine.

    Are you talking about a grease fitting when you mention the drive shaft at the differential and transfer case ends?? If not how do you the drive shaft ??

    Thanks again for the info.
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    My '03 does this sometimes. When shifting from D to R or vice versa I pause at Neutral for a second and release the brake, not sure if this reduces any kind of drivetrain windup. I notice this clunk more when the car is cold up and the revs are higher. Hope this helps.
  • yes-there are grease fittings near the "yoke" on each end of each drive shaft. Suggest you crawl under your truck in the rear first to see what they look like. Once you know what to look for, take your grease gun and pump some grease in to the fitting closest to the rear first diff first--go slowly until you just see a small amount come out, then wipe the excess from the fitting. next go to the fitting that leads to the transfer case--BUT, only put about 1 or 2 pumps--if that--into this fitting. You don't want to pump fast and hard and have anything come out from this fitting, and the same goes for the other fitting that leads from the front drive shaft to the transfer case. The reason I suggest you do the rear first is so you get the feel for how to do it and locate the fittings, and the fact that you will need to remove the under engine cover in order to access the front fittings. you will undoubtedly have to move your truck forward or back a bit to gain access to the grease fittings.

    I'm pretty sure that a little lube will reduce or pretty much eliminate the clunk you're noticing. And also, this is a "trait" that most LCs have at one time or another. Another thought--while your under your truck you might want to look at the diffs and TCase drain and fill plugs as you might want to chain the oil in these sometime. If you do decide to try that--loosen the fill plug FIRST! you don't want to drain the oil and then find you can't get the fill plug loose to re-fill the diff :)
  • gwhigwhi Posts: 4
    Thanks SC you have been a great help and I appreciate it !!!
  • While you're under there checking things, you may also want to check the flange yoke--this is what attaches to each of the differentials and the tcase. Torque specs for the rear to rear and rear to tcase is 78 ft/lbs, the spec for the front to front and front to tcase is 59 ft/lbs. If you get them lubed and double check that they're torqued you'll probably take care of your "problem"

    When you get oriented under neath the truck, you'll also see why you only put a small amount of lube in the grease fittings that go in to the tcase. Too much lube and you'll compress the propeller shaft toward the differential end of the shaft.

  • peiomipeiomi Posts: 20
    Does anyone know where I can buy OEM Toyota parts for my LC at a discount?
  • I've just started noticing that there is a strong vibration in the steering wheel when I apply the brakes (mostly from high speeds). Does this have something to do with the engine speed (less noticeable when slowing down in neutral), or is it just an issue with the alignment? If it is the alignment, has anyone else had this problem? It seems like the alignment on my '00 LC goes out of wack more then any of my other cars.

    If I'm just wrong, and this doesn't seem like an alignment problem, any replys will help.
  • Might be a tire balance problem--when did you have them rotated and balanced last? How are they wearing? Could also be a warped rotor, uneven pad wear.

    For parts-try this link I haven't used them, but you can at least see what their prices are like.

    Also, shop your local dealers. Fib a little. Tell them dealer B has the same part for X less, or ask them if they give club disounts.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371

    According to this Wall Street Journal article used SUV prices are down several thousand dollars. Although its the domestic products that are the hardest hit there has to be a spillover effect - now might be the time to buy or trade up for a good but a lot cheaper Landcruiser.
  • Hi All,

    I have a few questions about the bluetooth function and/or the phone dialing capability when vehicle is in motion. I have a 2006 TLC with NAV/Bluetooth.

    (1) Does the NAV system enable voice dialing?

    (2) Is there a way to circumvent the inability to dial a number or even a 1-touch phone number stored on the NAV when the vehicle is in motion?

    (3) If not to the above two questions, how do you cope with the very limited ability to initiate phone calls - - limited to when the vehicle is stopped?!

    Thanks for your thoughts.
  • Newbie here…just bought my first TLC TODAY. I got an 04, certified and loaded, with 37,000 miles for $46,000. Not a great deal but Land Cruisers go for a premium here in Northern Colorado. Whenever my local dealer gets one in trade they are gone within a day or two. I was going to buy an 04 Escalade, which the local dealer let me drive for a few days. I like the looks of the Escalade better, but the quality, resale value, and the X factor of the Land Cruiser were the deciding factors.

    I originally came into the Toyota dealership to check out a brand new Sequoia because I had heard such great things about them and drove one around for a few hours but I just didn’t like it. Nothing impressed me about it. So on a whim the salesmen told me to try out the Land Cruiser. The difference was just unbelievable. There was JUST something about that car. I wanted that car from the first 30 seconds I drove it. I had a hard time hiding my excitement from the salesman and I probably didn’t do a very good job of it but I’m sure we were both very happy with the outcome. The interior was beautiful and perfect…even after 37,000 miles. The navigation system was VERY impressive, far superior to the Escalade. The Land Cruiser just feels solid and everything fits like it’s supposed too. I only wish that Toyota had something comparable to On-Star, which I really wanted.

    I traded in an 01 Navigator, which was a beautifult car. I know they get a bad rep, but I never had a single problem with it in 4 years. Just decided it was time for a change. Depreciation though, was quite severe.

    I really love reading this board. So many owners talking about their LC’s with over 100,000 miles and no problems. Makes me think I made the right choice. My dealer had a brand new 06 on the lot. MSRP was $64,000. I couldn’t see much difference between mine and the 06 except for a bigger engine, which I can live without.
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