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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance



  • have a 1997 civic and the the child lock was activated - now the door is unable to be opened from inside or out.
    any solutions?

    If you are unable to open from the outside you have more problems than the child locks. They only prevent someone from the inside trying to get out not vice-versa.

    Good Luck.
  • My Honda Civic 93 - EX is giving me idling problems. The idle speed when the engine starts is about 1600 rpm. After warms up goes down to 1100 rpm, and it fluctuates up and down on its own. When the A/C is turned on the car looses power intermittently while accelerating. Please help.
  • My Honda Civic 93 - EX is giving me idling problems. The idle speed when the engine starts is about 1600 rpm. After warms up goes down to 1100 rpm, and it fluctuates up and down on its own. When the A/C is turned on the car looses power intermittently while accelerating. Please help.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    You might get a quicker response by posting in Honda Civic Owners: Problems & Solutions.

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  • chadrappchadrapp Posts: 35
    About how much should it cost to replace timing belt on my 02 Civic?
  • mbotmbot Posts: 6
    hi. i just stumbled across this site and it is great. i have a problem with my 93' Civic LX (4 Dr Sedan). hopefully someone can help me out:
    when it is wet outside, or it slightly cold, my windows tend to fog up very quickly. not only do they fog up quickly, but it gets so bad that i cannot see anything. is there a remedy for this? i have tried applying an anti-fog coating to the windows, but that doesn't seem to help. any ideas? thanks.
  • d15b7d15b7 Posts: 4
    Hi everybody!
    I think my bolt joints are for changing, but understood, that just the labor for that is about $300?!? :surprise: I have plan to buy them and change by myself! Is it possible and can you give me a link to see how to do. :confuse:
    I' m not sure that things are BOLT JOINT or BALL JOINTS?!? :confuse: :blush:
    What's the difference?

    Thanks in advance!
  • dudette3dudette3 Posts: 45
    Hi. I am replacing my front brake pads on my 01 Civic. Vehicle was making a metal scraping sound when accelerating, so I took it to the shop yesterday for a brake inspection. For some reason the right front pad is low, but the left front pads look fine. Do you recommend using the OEM brake pads to replace, or just what the repair shop says is an equivalent replacement? Is it necessary to replace both sides, are brake places willing to replace just one side and only charge for one side? Do you recommend going through the dealer, or is a Pepboys or equivalent shop just as good? Thank you for your help!
  • I just got back from visiting my 91 yr old mother in law. She has a 99 Civic that has not had a oil change since 02' @ ~5200 miles. It is now 3 yrs later and she has added another 750 miles to the odometer. She wonders what maintenance is needed. She is the lady that only drives 5 miles a week inside her retirement village to the Library and Church. Is this car's engine TRASH or what should she do. It has not caused her to breakdown yet. Thanks in advance!
  • 05liz05liz Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I just bought a ’01 Honda civic coupe, automatic with 60,000 miles. This is my first car, so I’m a little concerned about how to care for it. My most immediate concern is rust. The car has been in California for its entire life and I’m about to drive it out to Massachusetts/New York, where it will be parked outside in the snow all winter (I probably won’t drive it more than a couple times a week.). I’ve been reading about undercoating and rust-proofing in general on another forum and the posters were evenly split about whether it’s necessary. Does any one know how Hondas in particular hold up in the New England winters and whether my ‘01 Civic would need any treatment before I introduce it to snow and salt? I’ve also read that I should rinse off the undercarriage of the car about once a month and was wondering how to go about doing this. Is it as easy as bending over and spraying under the car with a hose for a couple minutes, or do I need to lift up the car, crawl underneath it, and spray the parts carefully?

    Also, there are a couple of scratches and nicks in the paint. Should I put a primer on those spots or wax the entire car? Any brands would you guys recommend? Finally, is there anything else (snow tires, perhaps?) that I should get or be concerned about or keep my eye on, especially in regards to transitioning it to the northeast climate? I have close to no experience with cars, so any tips, advice, or warnings would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  • Hi Lizzy, first off I dont think it's really necessary to rinse off the undercarriage for the sole reason that you just dont need too. If there's any chance of black ice anywhere you'll be driving I would definently suggest some studded snow tires. and about scratches in the paint; I would put some kind of primer or sealent on them only if you can see the metal of the car because those could be potential rust spots, and last but not least, about the salty air; I live in the western region of the pacific north-west so Im pretty close to the ocean and as far as the salty air is concerned you dont really need to worry about it. Over a very long extensive period of time the paint could rust and ware but I wouldent worry about it; some "car-nuts" would suggest putting a cover over it when your not driving it and it wouldent hurt but its not too necesary.

  • Hi, I have a Honda CRX and it's very cold blooded. I have too sit in the thing for five minuites before its warm enough to drive otherwise it dies on me when I back out of the drive way. The idle is also pretty high when its warming up (3000rpm). Any suggestions are appreciated thanks.

    Skyler :confuse:
  • thehuacthehuac Posts: 11
    When do I need to change the timing belt on my 2004 honda civic ex 2 door coupe 5 spped manual. My car already has 65,000 miles.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    If I were you, I'd locate that information in the Maintenance Schedule section of my Owners Manual. It's probably in your glove compartment.
  • jburkjburk Posts: 5
    I'm having trouble taking off my rear wiper blade on my 92 Civic hatchback. I've looked in my maunual but that was no help. Does anybody have any advice on how to do this?
    Thanks for you help
  • I'm having the same problem, in fact I think we must change all wiper parts (blade+arm).
  • vix4vix4 Posts: 52
    How often do people change the fluid in their CVTs?

    Honda recommends every 60K but I'm worried given Hondas reputation for transmission failures. Some people say do it every 15K, but thats seem way too frequent. 30K?
  • nyroynyroy Posts: 1
    I have an 00 civic in ny. They hold up excellant. according to consumer reports undercoating is useless and in fact detrimental.ditto for rustproofing. as far as nicks go get touchup paint from a dealer(they come in a little lipstick like applicator) change the oil and filter and drive it. Your all season tires are probaly fine
  • I am looking for advice on how to beef up the rear suspension of my 2005 Civic Coupe VP. I am from the St. Louis, MO area. I am an electronics technician and use the car to travel all over the country (4000 miles a month). I carry a lot of tools and supplies and need some help to keep the car from sagging and get better handling. I purposely bought this car over a truck or van for the economy, inexpensive maintenance, my loyalty to Honda (4th one),and reliability.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    While keeping the car from sagging and better handling are certainly do able, I would be very careful what I do, given you do 4000 per mo and 48,000 miles per year.

    The stock suspension system while it does have some drawbacks is really built for durablility and longevity.

    Two obvious things that you have not mentioned come to mind.

    1. What is the total weight of all that you transport? Next I would see what is the max vehicle load rating (mine is 850#'s). Then the obvious thing is to make sure you are within the parameters or more directly don't exceed it.

    2. Upshot: do not overload your car. Is your tire inflation pressure enough to cover the load bearing requirements? So for example on my 2004 Honda Civic VP, the placard states 30 psi. However, I run the Honda's recommended (owners manual) 35 psi or higher speed psi recommendation.

    Of next importance; longer wearing tires such as GY Comfort Treads or GY Triple Treads. You might lose .5-2 mpg but the better ride will be the reward.

    The next thing that I would do given your situation is to go to (when the struts and shocks actually do leak or really crap out) an adjustable set such as Koni Reds/Blacks.

    If you decide to go to a stronger REAR spring rate, then you really need to get softer shocks and NOT stiffer shocks than most rocketeers advocate. The adjustable ones are important for the "goldilocks" touch here. (Koni Yellows)

    If side to side handling with the loads you carry are important, I would go no further than rear anti sway bars.
  • The tires are at 30psi and I am probably at the 700# mark (including myself) for weight. I try to spread the weight out though out the car but I would rather not have spools of wire and tools surrounding me on my 1000 mile commutes, so most of the weight is in the trunk and back seat. I too am concerned about the reliability factor, which is why I am CAREFULLY considering any alterations of the factory suspension. My issue with the sagging (other than the classy appearance) it wether or not keeping the weight in the trunk all the time will be bad for the suspension long term. The sway is a bigger concern. I notice when changing lanes at interstate speeds a time delay from when I turn the wheel and the car actually moves. Then the move seems erratic and over steered (kind of fish tail like). I had to get a feel for it. In a situation where I may have to make a quick move from debris in the road, I could loose control. What do you think?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    I would go to a min of 35 psi. Since you are at 82% of max capacity, you can not think of your vehicle as an (unweighted) light nimble coupe. So drive accordingly.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,320
    The delayed reaction to steering input would worry me. I've had a similar feel when overloading my trunk with loads of mulch for the flower/garden beds. Could be the dangerous difference in an emergency maneuver.

    Can you get air struts to be able to maintain the right ride height for the springs and alignment?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I have to say .... I smell a rat.. and think I was royally misinformed by my dealership... I had my first oil change at 1000 miles (3 months). I brought my brand new 2005 Civic Coupe in for a trunk leak and a leak in the back seat at 1,000 miles(which was found to be coming from a roof seam, no TSB's for it yet)I asked the dealership if I should wait to 3,750 for my first oil chage and told them that would take me another 6 months. They told me to have my first oil change at 3 months on this brand new car, but my first oil change was free. Is this going to harm my car being that now I see Honda manual suggests waiting until 3,750 before getting your first oil change? :confuse:
  • Anyone come across this problem yet? Check Engine Light (CEL) stayed on after starting my 2002 Civic DX (sedan, 5spd) with 35K miles the other night. Autozone scan using OBD II found P1607. Service manual says: Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Internal Circuit Malfunction. Removed #6 fuse (fuse to "brain") for 10 secs, reinstalled, turned ignition key on (position II) for 40 secs as per Service Manual and CEL is still on.

    There are no other symptoms, i.e. oil level/pressure is fine, runs fine, coolant level ok, nothing amiss other than the orange/yellow glow of the light.

    (1) Does it hurt the car to drive?
    (2) Is the brain really bad after only 35K miles?
    (3) Any other ideas as to fixes besides replacing the brain?
  • Review of Honda Warranty says ECM and PCM are covered 8 years/80,000 miles.

    I'm still curious to know if others have come across this DTC.

  • Hi there,
    So a few months back I bought a 94 honda civic DX with just over 150k miles on it. I have always done all the regularly scheduled maintanance myself on all of my cars. Normally I run out and grab a couple manuals but the auto stores in the surrounding areas all seem to be sold out and I need to change the oil soon, as in I probably should have done it about 1000 miles ago.
    I had all the usual things I need to do the job except I couldn't find the oil filter itself, maybe I'm blind or something. I checked the owners manual and it doesn't say where to find it. Instead it tells me to take it into a shop because I don't have some Honda specific tool. Now, I'm pretty sure I could find a way around this and if not I know I can get my hands on one. But none of that matters until I can find the oil filter.... So my questions are:

    1. Does anybody know where the stupid oil filter is on this thing?


    2. After all this, I've begun to wonder is there any honda specific or civic specific information that I need to know before doing this once I do find it (extra steps, tips, etc.)?

    I don't want to have to take this into a shop just to get this done. I know it doesn't cost that much, but I'm a student and I'm honestly cannot afford even that right now.

    Plus I'm cheap so I balk at the thought of paying someone else to do stuff that I should be able to do myself without too much of a hassle.
  • I just bot a LX. Some my friends tell me there is no difference between 93 and 87 while some say in the long run, 93 is better choice.
  • Honda dealer diagnosed problem as ECM failure (PN 37820-PLM-L04) and replaced as warranty repair. No cost whatsoever to me. Mileage on car ~ 35K miles.
This discussion has been closed.