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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance



  • jeff618jeff618 Posts: 29
    FYI - the only 8th gen civics you have to mess with refills and/or the dealer is with the 06-07 SEDAN (because they are proprietary to honda). The rest of the civics (06-10 Coupes and 08-10 Sedans) have more common/universal wiper arms and wiper sizes so you can get aftermarket replacement wiper blade assemblies that snap right on the arms - a heck of a lot simpler, and if you are in cold climates, the assemblies go through a ton of abuse so its not a bad idea to replace the whole assembly - we're only talking $10-$20 per wiper depending on brand and quality).

    Just make sure you look-up the make, model and year - and keep an eye on trim/body style - of your civic in the application guidebook or by Googling 'lookup wiper size'. Just pay attention and you'll be ok.

    I ended up going with 'Trico Tech Beam Blades' on my 07 Coupe. Got them online and they work AWESOME! I've also used Trico NeoForms in the past too - also great.

    Hope this all helps others...
  • If you have the AC or defrost mode, it's totally normal. Change your setting to vent air only, without the AC, and it should go off.
  • Aftermarket blades are not for me. I have even spent up to $40 on blades before but when the ice gets on you blades, the Honda ones have given me the best results. Honda refils are only $5 each. They are a bit harder to install, but the Honda blades also work better at higher speeds facing strong winds. They tend to stick better on the windshield. This is my 14th Honda, and tried differents blades over the years only to come back to the Honda ones. If you go aftermarket, at least keep your arms in case you want to switch back. Don't mean to contradict you one that, but I really don't agree with you.
  • canadaycanaday Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    FYI.... the 08 Civic Ex sedan uses proprietary blades/refills. Normally a simple wiper replacement should take two minutes at most. With these, I suggest you set aside an hour or so. Better yet, schedule an appointment with your dealer. What a rip-off. Honda has discovered the secret handshake method of increasing its dealers service revenue. Without spending an hour to figure out how they work and some research, you won't get them off. There is nothing wrong with the old fashioned easy to replace design. Sign me as unhappy civic owner.
  • canadaycanaday Posts: 3
    Uh.. I spoke too soon. These '08 blades are not proprietary. Just wayyy too cute.
  • sjetsjet Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    Noticed a number amount of dings along side of right rear panel of 2009 Honda civic-touch up paint from dealer has not work to cover them. Was told that entire panel must be replaced by an auto body shop. Is there another option to remove small dings or dents?
  • Not sure about dings but, dents can be taken out companies like Dent Wizzard or Dents Away. Used car or even dealers are usualy familiar with this. If the paint is not chipped, a good buffing machine can do wonders.

    Good luck...
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 370
    Last summer I picked up a 93 Del Sol Si w just 73,000 miles (my 3rd one - I'm kind of a sucker for this model). It was owned by a 75 yr old farmer who only drove it in the summer. It ran well, but as insurance I basically did the 90K service (timing belt, water pump, AT tranny fluid, plugs...).

    It is running fine, but the check engine light comes on after 5-15 miles about 75% of the time. If I turn off the engine & restart, it will stay off for a while, but basically follows the same pattern. I have noticed that my MPG are about 20% less than my previous Del Sols. Are there any common issues that I should consider before ponying up $100 to take it to the dealer for troubleshooting? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    Could be a simple misfire--did you check cap, rotor, plug wires? Also check for loose gas cap, leaking vacuum lines to the evaporative control system.

    It resets because the misfire or fault clears and then resets the code after a certain number of incidents.

    Other than that, I'd suggest you read the codes and get a hint from that.

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  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    one other thing that wasn't mentioned. Instead of going to the dealer and paying them, just take the car over to autozone, they will read the trouble code that caused the CEL (check engine light) and then you can just look up what that code means. No need to pay the dealer all that money when it's free at autozone!

    and then bring that code back here so we can help you determine whats going on :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    Unfortunately I don't think autozone will read OBD-1 trouble codes.

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  • drhlhdrhlh Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I replaced my old slipping transmission with a used transmission. I was told the transmission I purchased worked fine. I put it in the 1993 Accord, the transmission shifts find and runs great until I stop. It doesn't want to take off until I re start the engine Then it takes off and does fine until I stop again. I've noticed the engine wants to die when I come to a stop.
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    Help! I finally located a set of new wiper blade assemblies (rubber + holders) in a neighboring county. Even the local dealer would have had to order these blades, ludicrous for a Civic. So - read the manual and it says squeeze the thumb grips on the covers and pull forward to remove the cap and then the assembly. I squeezed them as hard as I could - then I had someone else try - can't get the cover caps off. How hard do I have to squeeze them? Should I use pliers??? I will go to the dealer if I have time; issue is I'm supposed to drive to rainy Oregon tomorrow and am at work today. I really didn't expect this to be such a nightmare (and at $60 and counting, a ridiculously expensive nightmare!)
    Any advice GRATEFULLY accepted!!!
  • noiro_1noiro_1 Posts: 1
    I discover there is a discrepancy between the advertised crankcase oil capacity spec on the official Honda website and the 2008 Honda Civic owner's manual. The advertised spec calls for 4.7 qt. and the owner's manual calls for 3.9 qt. Which one is correct?? I have been filling up my Civic with 3.9 qt. The oil dipstick level seems fine. Am I under fill by 0.8 qt?
  • Bought a low mileage '08 from a dealer and have changed the oil - 3.9 quarts of Mobile 1, 5-20W - just like the book says.

    How do I change the "Oil Life" to read 100%?

    Any and all replies appreciated...
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,216
    Directions should be in the manual and don't forget, the OLM has no idea what kind of oil that's being used, dino or synthetic, so keep track of how fast it gets down to 15%. Most synthetics are made to go 10k miles so factor this in to the change intervals. I use dino on my '06 and change it every 5k miles.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • Am trying to find an actual photo of a '97 civic front end, specifically ball joint area, can anyone head me in the right direction!
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 370
    My 93 DS Si has 78K on it. When I bought at 73K 15 months ago, it there was not history of a fluid change on the 4 spd auto. I did a complete tune up, changed timing belt & water pump & all fluids at that time. The AT was drained, refilled, drove a bit, then drained & refilled using Honda AFT.) When the tranny was drained a small rectancular peice of metal came out. Took it to several tranny shops & they had no idea what it was. At any rate it seems to work fine lthough sometimes the shifts are a bit harsh & it occasionally takes 10-20 seconds to go into overdrive once I hit 60 on the freeway.

    I have been thinking about doing some improvements but wanted to make sure the drivetrain was in good shape before investing in suspension & cosmetics. I generally am not a hard driver, about 60% of my mileage is 2-4 mile trips in uncongested urban traffic, rest highway.

    Here are my fluid analysis from Blackstone:
    Tranny fluid: Copper was the dominant metal in the first sample from your Honda's transmission. This metal tends to show wear at the clutch plates and at 154 ppm, it is well above average, especially with only 5,500 miles on the oil. This is something to watch closely next time. All other metals read below universal averages, which are based on an oil run of about 16,000 miles. We suggest changing this oil and resampling in another 5,000 miles to monitor. No moisture or insolubles were present. :(

    Motor oil (Motorcraft semisyn blend 5W20): Lead increased in the latest sample from your Del Sol. Lead is 45. Was 8 at 73K, average for this unit is 4. This level shows some lower end bearing wear. If the air filter is clean, check for cracks or leaks past the air filter. You mentioned that you. do mostly city driving. That can contribute to high bearing, but likely doesn't explain this big of an increase. These aren’t failure levels, but it is something to watch. We suggest having this oil changed and resampling in 3,000 miles to monitor. The TBN read 2.0 so you still have a little active additive left. Check the CEL code to rule out anything there. Changed oil when this analysis was done.

    Despite these depressing reports, the car seems to run fine, averaging 30- 32 mpg. The only obvious problem is the CEL often comes on after 3-5 miles on the highway.

    I plan to keep this as a daily driver for 2-4 more years & average about 4,000 miles a year & planned to change to oil once a year. I am not into engine & tranny swaps. So what do you suggest in terms of oil & ATF to help nurse as many good miles out of this drivetrain as possible? Thanks
  • i just got this 91 civic lx. it runs pretty strong. ive ran cars to the junk yard in the past. and i love this car. i want to get it up to par and keep it maintained as well as possible. am going to get oil change now. having valve thing looked @ @ 1;30. then i plan on tune up. etc. i want to baby it.
    any suggestions? also for a integral affordable good honda mechanic in the Hayward ca area. i am researching car maintenence on inet. but would like to hear from people with experience..
  • my 1991 honda civic was running fine, idle was fine,. but there was a small ping noise in under the vavle cover. friend thought it was the lifters. and neighbor whos been mechanic for 30plus years said he knew how to fix it. so he took valve cover off and adjusted the things. now the ping is louder, and my new car is running rough- idling kinda rough. we changed the oil. my question is this. the mech neighbor wants to keep working on it. he said "oh i can get that fixed" but im afraid he'll make it worse. i found out about a good mechanic who is available next week. i was going to have that mechanic do a tune up. but now i should have him fix what my neighbor did first. any suggestions.??
  • My personal opinion is this... While your neighbor was trying to be nice- he messed up.

    Whether you want to take the chance again is up to you - but from the sounds of it he is not licensed by your states Motor Vehicle Department and his liability to you is virtually nothing unless you sue him in civil court.

    I'd take it to a functioning auto repair shop that is licensed by your state DMV - so you'll likely have some sort of gurantee and more recourse should things get worse, as opposed to "my neighbor down the street killed my car" scenario.

    Good luck !
  • gabrugabru Posts: 1
    Oil change questions:
    1. What is the recommended oil change schedule
    2. Is synthetic better, i know they say it does not matter short term, but over the life of the car does it make any difference
    3. How does the maintenance minder monitor just tracks mileage or some more parameters
    4. Is it worth spending more on expensive oil filters

    As i am unable to get the answer to these questions in the manual it would be very helpful to get these answered once and for all. Thanks!
  • wco81wco81 Posts: 553
    My local dealer tells me go by the oil percentage display in the car. Apparently the sensor is reliable.

    They put a sticker, 15% or some date.

    But I drive few miles (short commute) so it takes a year or more to get it down.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,216
    I follow what the monitor says & use a synthetic blend dino oil they sell at my local Tires Plus. Since my driving has been cut by almost 66.66%, looks like I won't even be putting on more than 3k/year, but I will still be changing out the oil/filter once a year no matter what. Think that's the least I can do, since have definitely decided to keep my ride for the time being...will let my boy have it if he needs a car. No matter how much I want to swap wheels, makes no fiscal sense and not necessary if I decide to not work after my official retirement in January. Car still drives like new!

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • The lights for the radio went out. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and also under the hood, they are all good. Am I missing one or is the bulb out. If so how do you get to the bulb form the front or under the dash? Do I need to take the radio out?
  • ejo1ejo1 Posts: 8
    Just bought a 2003 HCH with 62K miles on it and found out that my heat is only working some of the time (Honda certidied Check-Out didn't reveal this)
    I think I must buy the 3 knob Auto controller but how do I get to it?
    How do I get the radio/CD/Cassette player out?
    Any advise is appreciated.
  • Hi All,

    I own a 2009 Honda Civic which I bought in Jan '09. The car is in excellent condition and I have taken the car regularly to the dealer for maintenance whenever the maintenance lights have come on.

    I last serviced the car ~27K Miles and at that point of time the dealer made some noises about additional work when the car hits 30K.

    Yesterday at ~33.5K miles I got the 15% oil life message along with the A 1 maintenance codes. Before I go to the dealer I wanted to know what maintenance are truly required at this time. Oil change and tire rotation goes without saying but is there anything else that must be done? I definitely do not want to avoid any required service but I do not want to be taken for a ride by the dealer because of my lack of knowledge

    The manual is vague about anything other than the maintenance minder codes so help on this from the forum would be appreciated. I do about 80% of my driving on the free way.

    Thanks and Best Regards.
  • I have a 2009 Civic EX Auto, bought it in June 2009.

    It now sits at 15,000 miles and I was wondering if there's any way to guess what codes will be displayed when the oil life reaches 15%? It's currently at 30% oil life. I know A & B are oil changes, but as for the number (1-6), does anyone here know that has taken their Civic between 15,000 and 18,000 miles for service?

    The reason I ask is because I have 2 upcoming road trips, 2 weekends in a row, and if I were to guess I can easily put in 1,000 miles, maybe more, in less than 2 weeks. I don't want the maintenance light in the dash to come on while I'm far from home and from my dealership.
  • crwincrwin Posts: 1
    ">Believe or not My civic CX already hits 313k, still strong but unforntunaly burns oil about a quart for every 3k, well not too bad. I did oil changed every 5,000 or 5,500 with mobil 1 synthetic 10/30. I ran approx 200 miles a day during week day and he got off on week end:).
    I loved my civic, with D15 stock engine and with the new head gasket on 235k while I bought it. Gas consumed around 32-35 mpg. The problem i forgot to asked previous owner how many miles last time he changed the timing belt:(.
    Can anybody share how many miles change timing belt recommended?? 60k/80k or 100k??? Thanks:)
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,216
    I think "1" means a tire rotation but check your owners's all in there. I also do the oil changes at 15%/once per year as my driving has dropped dramatically...will be lucky to do 1k miles this year. Best advice is to check your manual or go online to the Honda website and register your vehicle and you'll get reminder notices.

    Good luck guys! :)

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

This discussion has been closed.