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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • When the outside temperature dips below about 25 degrees, my Jeep has an issue where it won't down shift. The engine temp needs to be at about 210 before the engine backs off and the RPM will finally dip from about 22k to 18K. No problems at all when the engine is warm. Just mainly in the morning when it's cold out. Any ideas? Have the 4.0L with 119K miles. --- Di
  • I have the inline 6 4.0L engine, Im not exactly sure what the 4wd system is called, but its not the quad drive, you manually can shift from 2 wheel to 4 part time, 4 full time and 4 lo. The noise is only when I put it in reverse and gets louder the longer I leave it in reverse. Once I put it in drive the noise is gone. Any ideas?
    Thanks for your help.
  • Oh and the noise is when Im in 2 wheel drive, and I have the tow package, if that helps. :D
  • I have a problem starting my 97 grand cherokee. doesnt seem to be the battery or alternator because it will crank, but then immediately shut off. When i give it gas right after i crank it, it will stay on until i release the gas. I've been told it might be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel injector, or maybe fuel pump. Any ideas on what it might be? and how difficult/expensive is it to replace any of the above parts?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Just something simple to check first, make sure your alarm system is turned off! When it's on it will allow vehicle to start but then shut it down.
  • dandgdandg Posts: 91
    I agree, its sure sounds like the alarm is cutting out the fuel to the injectors.Try locking and unlocking the driver door with the key and see if it starts and stays running
  • suzieesuziee Posts: 2
    My 2003 Grand Cherokee Passenger rear window is stuck mid point. I noticed a year after I bought it (used) that it would not come down when I tried to activate from the driver controls. No big deal as its usually just me in the car. Well my husbands son pushed the button from the back seat and it came down about 3 inchs and stopped, won't go up or down. Any suggestions without taking it to the dealer. I love my Jeep but my hubby says it nickling and dimeing us to death.
  • Has anybody know why I do not have HEAT on the Passenger side vents.
  • If you have the auto-climate control the blender doors have probably failed - See WJJEEPS.COM
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    A lot of recent vehicles will not shift into 4th (overdrive) until the tranmission reachs a certain operating temp. We used to have a '00 Grand Cherokee and I think it did that. We currently have the wife's '04 Envoy XL and my '00 Trooper. The Trooper does that every cool/cold day...I'm pretty sure the Envoy does that as well. So, with a 4 sp auto, behavior is like running in 3rd for the first couple of miles.
  • I have the same thing wrong with my 2004 jeep grand cherokee. I have found a couple of forums that say that it will cost between $1000 and $2000 with maintenance. I am past my warrenty, so I contacted Chysler and they said I am out of luck and they won't fix it. So then I contacted this website, through the government, to try to get a recall. They haven't contacted me back yet, but I hope it will turn out to be a recal. I live in Minnesota so I can't defrost my passenger side of the windshield, so it is safety hazard.
  • rolljrollj Posts: 13
    You might want to try replacing the IAC motor (Idle Air Control Motor). On fuel injected vehicles the gas pedal acts more like an air pedal. When you depress the gas pedal you are opening the trottle body and turning the TPS sensor(Throttle Postioning Sensor). When you dont have the gas pedal depressed, a little electric motor usually on the Throttle body, opens up to still feed the motor air. If this motor is not working properly then no air gets to the motor, causing it to stall. The part is usually inexpensive and easy to replace. I would suggest instead of chasing down electrical problems, you start with this. It it doesn't fix the problem, return the IAC motor and get your money back.
  • my son has a 1994 jeep grand cherokee 5.2, his first car. the other day he came in saying his jeep wouldnt start, and since he is a gear head i didnt contribute it to something dinky.
    it acts like it wants to start, like watsonjeep's problem, except his does not run no matter what. it cranks, starts to fire, then immediately returns to cranking. the odd thing aobut this though, is once its cranking, it wants to start exactly like normal, but cant. so the crank time is consistant, and within 1 sec it dies. if you hold the key down and let it crank, it repeats over ad over. i have tried it with my foot to the floor. it WILL NOT START AND RUN. ever since yesterday we have been trying and the same thing happens. we did check the alarm system, and turned the key in the door, no luck.
  • I have the same issue. Mine is at the driver side. when I ran the diagnostics, it gave error code 54 54 (Left temperature door travel too large)

    Any clue how expensive repair this is ?

  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Treat it like a screwed up computer. Disconnect the battery, turn the lights on to drain any remaining juice in the system, and then hook it back up. Make sure your battery connections are spotless. This may not do it, but it worked for me once and it don't cost nothing but a few minutes of your time.
  • You probably have a broken blender door.
  • Thanks xscout, but weve already tried that.
    something somewhere has to be messed up. you dont suppose its the main computer?
  • My 99 gcl has no defrost or heat. It satrted on the passenger side the over the summer te drivers side went. I took it to a dealer and for 1500 the said they could fix it. Apparently the blend air door and the a/c temp sensor motors have gone bad. Each motor cost about 90 dollars. I took my dash apart and replaced the motors myself but I still have no heat!! I'm not sure what to do now. I have a 12 volt heater rigged up for the mean time. hopefully it doesnt get much colder
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Black boxes are certainly not my area of expertise. But it seems as since you can restart over and over again before it shuts down that you have: Fuel pressure,spark, air and they are all coming together properly for at least a second. It just sounds like something (computer?)is cutting the spark to shut it down that quickly.
  • rolljrollj Posts: 13
    I have already posted this question before but I wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem as well. I have an 05 JGC Limited with a 5.7 hemi and during a mild or "regular" acceleration i am hearing a ticking from the front drivers side of the vehicle. This is most noticeable when accelerating next to a wall because the noise resonates off of it. I have had it in and out of the dealership several times for this problem. It sounds like an exhaust leak but the dealership has assured me that they have pressure checked the entire exhaust and there are no leaks. Can anyone with the hemi engine check this and let me know if there is does the same. Also if anyone has any information on this i would appreciate it if they could let me know.
  • I do believe that the sound that your hearing is the air pump attached to the fender wall and at times it can get very loud as I had mine checked on my 04 JGC for the same noise and I also hear it on my Hemi but after the explenation from the last time I haven't bothered this time.
    Not sure if this is what your problem is but thought I'd give you my info.. Best of Luck. :shades:
  • i'm taking it to my mechanic on wednesday, well see what he finds.
  • I don’t know if it’s the weather or if my car is about to die but it sounds like it’s on its last legs. I think it’s the shift from 3rd to 4th that is going goofy because when I get to about 40mph and press the gas pedal, the rpms will go up to 5k if I’m not watching. When I back off the gas and slow the rpms, eventually it will catch and I can then speed up. This happens after a cold night usually even if I give it 15 minutes to warm up in the morning. Also, when I’m idling at a stoplight I need to put the car in neutral in order to avoid a stall. Kind of weird but this has been happening more and more frequently.
  • rolljrollj Posts: 13
    I haven't heard of any air pump on these vehicles. I'm actually not sure what you mean by air pump, the only air pump that i've heard of is for emissions and those where only used in the late 80's and early 90's. The only explination i have been given is it's from the catalytic converters. I have actually heard the tick on several of the hemi JGC and im curious how DC can issue TSB's on very stupid complaints and not have addressed this issue. If you could can you let me know what air pump you are refering to.
    P.S. a very good source of TSB's and all other information on all JGC is
  • I've got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 Sport with and Auto Trans. It's just when over 70K miles. I've just recently noticed that when driving at 50 or better it seems to jump between gears. When going 50mph it will jump from about 1500rpm to about 2100rpm. There is no change in modulation to the gas pedal and this is done on a flat road so there is no change in hill accent/decent. I first noticed the problem when the car was going between 60-70mph. The RPM's will jump up for a little bit then jump back down. It will continue to do this for a while. I'm not sure how long this would go on as my typical drives are not great in distance. It has been getting significantly colder and I am wondering if that could be part of the problem, but I fear that this isn't it. My inclination is that it might be: a sensor, something with the transmission, or throttle body (just putting it out there). Has anyone had a similar problem or knowledge of potential solutions to this problem?
  • does the car seem to buck a little when it does this, slow down?
  • Does your Jeep have an "overdrive" button? If so It sounds as if your Jeep is going in & out of overdrive. Try manually taking the trans in & out of overdrive to see if it duplicates the issue.
  • Yes it does. I'll try it.
  • when i start my Jeep the oil pressure is a little lower than normal, as it warms the pressure drops, eventually to zero and the check guages light comes on. When I accelerate the check guages light shuts off and the pressure rises slightly, only a little bit! I have plenty of oil, and I had it changed 3000 miles ago. What is my Jeeps problem?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Assuming the engine continues to sound normal, I would try replacing the oil pressure sensor first. This is a fairly simple, inexpensive job. The check gauges light is just responding to the reading of the oil gauge.
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