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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    beleave or not the relay for the fan is behind front bumper 0n pas (right )side of car

    1 remove front bumper and grill assembly
    2 remove 1 support bolt near front reservoir
    3 remove reservoir bolts (2)
    4 remove reservoir get out of way
    5 disconect wires from relay
    6 remove relay
    7 replace by going back up the list
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    Just thought I'd give a final update.. Replacing the TPS did the trick, it's now been 6 months and is still running fine.

    And the dealer said I need a new computer...

  • bripa3bripa3 Posts: 4
    Can someone help determine the possible location of my engine coolant leak, job description of repair, and estimated cost of repair? It appears that the engine coolant is leaking from a gasket on the lower pan just below the lowest belt pully under the engine.
    The interesting thing is that it doesn't leak all the time. And, when it leaks sometimes a will lose a lot of coolant, other times its just a small amount of coolant.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    Just a confirmation, I did nearly the exact same thing for my "fogged over" headlights on 00' JGCL.

    I had tried everything else then one day thought "you know, if they can sand paint to a perfect finish why can't I do it with plastic?" So I did. Only I used a power sander (still takes a while, but at least my arms didn't hurt when I was done!) ;)
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    How's the alternator? I would have several places test both your battery and especially your alternator. I've had places tell me my alternator was good only to find out they were ignorant and had poorly maintained equipment not to call names but (my local Auto Zone).

    I'd have at least 2 auto parts stores test it for you.

    I suppose if that's not it it could still be a loose ground to the frame, maybe from the battery to the frame (not likely but possible)

    Also what code(s) are you getting? If you turn the key on and off three times it will tell you your codes (look where the odometer is) The reason I ask is because it's interesting how the dealers interpretation of the codes are always more expensive than my interpretation of the codes based on my haynes and chiltons manuals.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    What are all the codes you are getting?

    If you don't know turn the key on and off three times and look at the odometer it will tell you all the codes in (aprox.) 3 second intervals.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    BTW.. Bad injectors can also cause the P0301,0302,0303,0304,0305,0306,0307,0308 code to trigger.

    If it's only one code (and the same one) repeatedly and replacing the spark plugs did not work then it's likely to be the injector.

    Basically it's all about voltage I'd need a pen and paper to effectively describe it but I'll give it a shot anyway.

    The PCM monitors voltage spikes created when the spark plug ignites fuel sprayed by the injectors, it translates the combustion into voltage information via sensors that are part of the fuel injection system ie. the TPS, CPS, MAP, ect.. It then uses the internal voltage regulator (which knows what a normal spike, charge, hold and discharge pattern looks like) to adjust the injectors and such as it sees fit for proper function of the vehicle.
    The above code(s) is(are) set when the voltage spike is too high, or too low (or when a faulty sensor is telling the PCM the spike is too high or low) We feel a 'sputter' so to speak because the either we really have a bad voltage spike, or the PCM is trying to adjust something that doesn't need to be adjusted because it thinks we have a bad voltage spike...

    All that to say chances are it's (in this order) probably going to be fixed by:

    1. Replacing the spark plugs (and inspecting and replacing the plug wires as needed)
    2a. If other codes accompany the above codes, or you have more than one of the above codes replace the TPS (throttle position sensor)
    2b. Replace the MAP Sensor (as code dictates)
    2c. If no other codes apply and you don't have multiple of the above codes replace the injector (test first with a node light.)
    3. on (my best guestimate, cause I can't remember exactly) 1994 and earlier models I believe the voltage regulator is separate from the PCM if this applies for your vehicle replace it if the problem persists after replacing the above.
    4. as a last resort (because I may have forgotten something) replace the PCM

    Afterthought: as expensive as the MAP sensor is, and as fun as it isn't to change you may consider double checking your applicable relays and the Camshaft Position Sensor before replacing the MAP sensor. The relays are typically $7-$15 dollars and the CPS was around $20.00 I think whereas the MAP Sensor is nearly $100.00-$200.00 (also if you don't have a P0107, or P0108 code I wouldn't mess with it unless something else points to it being that)

    However we should remember that just because the code says it, it doesn't mean that is or isn't the problem. The diagnostic codes are just to help us solve the puzzle and reflect what the PCM thinks the problem is. Yes it's a fact that is will show us where there were negative readings but it's only as dependable as the sensor reporting to the PCM. Also some problems with trigger other codes ie. A P0121 (TPS does not correlate with MAP) indicate a problem with either the TPS, or MAP sensor a problem with one of those sensors will cause you to see a P0301, or P0300, P0301, P0302... codes as well. In which case we must determine which code most likely reflects the root cause of each of the codes.

    Beginners should think of it this way, if you are hungry your brain senses that the stomach is empty and set a 'code' indicating hunger, perhaps even stomach pains, headaches, shaky limbs (arms, legs) ect... You wouldn't try to replace your stomach, head, legs, arms, and brain to fix this problem just because you had 'codes' telling you there were problems with each of these. (there is always a root cause that will effect other components and send false readings) ;)
  • I have a 2000 JGC limited 4.7 it seems to make noises and is a little rough and makes a wining sound when i make sharp right and left turns or (prime example) when i make a 3 point turn. I checked the power steering fluid and seems to be fine. Does anyone know what the problem may be and how i can go about fixing this minor problem before it blows up in my face.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    A couple of possibilities come to mind..

    1. Steering pump drivebelt may have play in it or otherwise be faulty.

    2. Faulty power steering pump (not so fun to replace)

    3. I wasn't able to verify for sure but I believe that somewhere between the steering column and the steering wheel is some kind of belt. When this belt is loose or going bad you will see symptoms similar to what you are describing.

    Good luck, I must admit the steering components aren't really my thing.
  • jeep93jeep93 Posts: 2
    hello guys.. i have a 93 grand cherokee.. it runs so smooth but when the car itself heats up and i make sharp turns the jeep begins to hop.. does anyone know what the proble could be?
  • hesitatehesitate Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2006 JGC in July of 06. The vehicle has approximately 11700 miles on it. Over the past month or so, my wife and I noticed that our vehicle would hesitate when we made U-turns or turns while the vehicle was coasting and when we stepped back onto the accelerator. We have taken the vehicle to our dealership at least 3 times and each time the dealer tells us that they cannot duplicate the condition. Anyone have similar hesitation problem.

    Also the dealership has replaced the window motors several times, however the windows sound like they are laboring when the window goes up.

    Any insight would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • nachojeepnachojeep Posts: 5
    I'm having the same problem. When I turn left or right out of a drive way. Every time I take it to the dealer they say they can not find a problem. Did you have any luck?
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    Grand daughters 99 Jeep Cherokee was submerged ( to top of engine)for about 1 hour. Have drained engine--as soon as thr rains stop will drain tranny and rear end. May need to dry mother board on computer and clean and check all switches. Questions--where is the computer located and can it be opened? Any other suggestion welcome.
    Thanks, Smokebee
  • soccermansoccerman Posts: 8
    I finally have a new viscous coupler and the mechanic is trying to install. He has removed the rear driveshaft to get access to the transfer case cover. He has removed the bolts holding the transfer case cover but the cover, which is loose/moving, will not pull off. He is concerned that there is something on the inside of the transfer case cover (retaining clip maybe?)which may be attached and preventing the cover from coming off. He doesn't want to force it and break something- getting parts where I am is tough.

    Any ideas if this cover should just come away, or if there is something else to remove? Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    Have to remove rear retainer (where the drive shaft hooks on with 4 or 5 bolts
    on this part there is a rubber plug about 1 1/2 in long take out and there is a snap ring under it that you have to release
    after that you have oil pump and stuff
    look like PIA to change
    don't know if can send scan to you need e-mail to try to send file
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    You can scan it and save it as a jpg and post it on your CarSpace page in an Album there. And that way people finding this thread in a future search will be able to see the scanned info.
  • soccermansoccerman Posts: 8
    Okay thanks. Please email the scan to
    By the way, what is PIA ?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    By the way, what is PIA ?

    Roughly translated, it means "pain in the anterior." :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Some dude did write a CarSpace Guide about ways to fix scratched or yellowing headlights. :P

    Some people say to seal it after all the sanding and polishing. Tuggajb (now where have I seen that name before? :) ) used lacquer from Home Depot to seal his after polishing the lens.
  • soccermansoccerman Posts: 8
    It seems that the problem is actually at you first step - getting the rear retainer/ access cover removed. The driveshaft is uncoupled and the bolts have been taken out but the retainer/access cover which should simply slide over the driveshaft is moving but not coming off so we can't get access to the rubber plug, snap ring or oil pump etc.

    We thought by taking out the bolts that the cover would just slide back. Other than the bolts is there anything esle that could be stopping it?
  • tntweirtntweir Posts: 1
    my latch broke off for my 1998 jeep cherokee,how do I get my hood open now???
  • patdowerpatdower Posts: 11
    I have all wheel drive in my Cherokee, it stopped working this winter, I am afraid of damaging it further by driving it as is. Also I have reduced traction with only one drive wheel. The jeep is so powerful i am at a disadvantage in inclement weather due to the reduced traction. Any ideas as to what to do?
  • jhuckjhuck Posts: 17
    I see that I never gave an update. It was the oil pump and sensor. All replaced to the tune of almost 2K. Worked great again until now. Going to post that...
  • jhuckjhuck Posts: 17
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I am not sure I can explain this very well. It all started with a break light being out. New bulb and it still didn't work but when the lights are on the bulb does light up. Then I moved the bulb and it's plug to the other side. Now when the lights are on the break light does not light up at all. In trying to figure all this out I then noticed that the bottom bulbs do not light up at all. Pulled those bulbs and everything is intact. My problem started with the top one of the three and when I went investigating the bottom doesn't work at all and the middle ones are fine.
    I plan to look at fuses next. But when pulling the cover I only see one that is break related - Break switch. Could it be that one? I remember the break switch on my Honda being unrelated to the lights though.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    If you have installed the right bulb 3157

    the holders for the bulb have been known to go bad from heat can get them from jeep for bout 10 12 bucks try that first other wise prob bad tail lamp assembly
  • sarchersarcher Posts: 1
    I have the same car and I had to change the water pump at Mobil for $268 bucks recently. The car kept leaking the coolant until one night i came out to go for a drive and noticed all the coolant leaked out.As of now that problem is fixed. The Jeep has cost me about $2,000 in expenses from going to the service dealer and recently Mobil.The car is at 79,100 miles and I purchased it at 44,000 appoximately. The money I spent fixing the car I could of bought a new car!!I had to change my fan assembly TWICE and the relay over 10 times. This was very pricey, i'll say $760 for fan and module at the same time. The car kept overheating even after they told me they put in a new fan assembly. I recommend not to go to the dealer for service because they are inexperience,pricey, and non-caring. I'm getting rid of this Jeep A.S.A.P. I WILL NEVER BUY A CHYRSLER PRODUCT AGAIN!
  • crowe3crowe3 Posts: 1
  • danielrpdanielrp Posts: 3
    0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    0302 - Cylinder # 2 Misfire
    0306 - Cylinder # 6 Misfire
    1762 - Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts Too Low or High

    The vehicle starts, but it is very sluggish. I have not changed my spark plugs in about 60K miles, so I think that that may solve the 03XX codes....what do you think????\

    Also, what can I do to fix 1762? Thank you for your time.

    Roy Daniel
    SSgt USMC
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    1762 check trans oil level Have you changed your trans fluid?
    if so did you use atf4 non other must use atf4 in your trans anything else will scrue you up
    what engine you have?
    on the right side (pass)side in engine compartment behind coolent tank is computer have had to unplug and clean contacts regrease(with dilitric grease get at radioshack) and rehookup
    make sure that you disconect your battery before doing anything to computer hookups
  • danielrpdanielrp Posts: 3
    1. I have never changed my transmission fluid. I will try that.

    2. I have a 4.0L 6

    3. Is the computer realted to the cylinders?
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