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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • pacnwpacnw Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 gc 5.2 150,000 mls and the engine light comes on after driving for aprox 1hr but the jeep still runs ok. I do maintenance by the book but have never change o2 sensors since it passes smog test

  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Code P1757 is "Governor pressure greater than 3 psi when requested to be 0 psi." I replaced that part just recently after I discovered I suddenly had no first gear. After much searching on the internet I concluded that the problem was either the governor pressure sensor or the governor pressure solenoid. If you have ever dropped the transmission pan and changed your fluid and filter you can do this job. Both parts stick downward into the pan and are visible after the filter has been removed. You have to remove the mounting body they are both attached to (I recall needing a torx screwdriver). To remove the pressure sensor from the body you will have to remove the attached gasket which comes off easy with a sharp gasket removal tool and can be reused. There is a clip hidden by the gasket you have to remove to get the pressure sensor off. Both off these parts run about $100 each and either can be the problem since they "talk" to one another, either one is not receiving correctly or the other is not sending correctly. I replaced both not wanting to have to tear everything back apart again if I guessed the wrong part. Entire job ended up costing me about $250 and half a day in the driveway, but the lowest estimate I got to have it done was $600+ with no guarantee in would not go higher.
  • I have a 98 with the 5.9 and I noticed that my cv boots were getting pretty bad this summer and I was getting some clicking in the front when I turned sharp. Well now I have clicking all the time and my four wheel drive isn't working. Is this the cv joints? If so can I screw up anything else by driving it until its fixed? How hard of a project is it?
  • No struts involved, just shocks and coil springs. Sounds like you need new shocks. They are very easy to install.
  • If you haven't found a solution to your fading body molding, let me know and I'll tell you what I did.
  • Have you solved your problem yet? Let me know and maybe I can help.
  • Yes, unfortunately, your going to need to replace the CV joints. You should be fine driving them until you replace them. Just don't wait too long. I'd replace them within a month. If you're mechanically inclined, it shouldn't be very hard for you to do yourself. I would at least go and buy the Haynes Repair Manual that covers your model Grand before you begin the replacement. It will walk you through the process step by step. If you have anymore questions let me know.
  • Have you solved your problem yet? Let me know and maybe I can help you out.
  • The clicking when turning is a symptom of bad cv joints. Although replacing cv joints is a dirty job, its not too huge of a project. If you really have no idea what you are doing you may either want to invest in a Chilton jeep repair guide or just save yourself the hassle and take it somewhere and pay to have it done. Besides the repair guide you may be able to find directions on how to change out the bad cv's online. Good luck!!
  • i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee....i wanna keep up with my maintence on the jeep, are there any grease points/if so, where can i find them?
  • You may need to remove the front wheels to access the upper balljoint grease fittings. If your GC is 4-wheel drive you will have a grease fitting on the slip joint collar of the front driveshaft. Also check for grease fittings on the steering linkage connections like the drag link and tie rod. Look at all other steering and suspension components while you're under there and lubricate any other joints you see that have grease fittings. If you have any more questions let me know. - dixiecrawler
  • Thank you. Thats what I wanted to hear. I was hoping it wasn't my transfer case or something. Thanks for your help.
  • ellachellach Posts: 8
    Hi All
    Can anyone tell me how to remove my glove box on 2003 GCH.
  • ellachellach Posts: 8
    Hi all
    Can anyone give me any hints tips on replacing heater blend doors 2003 jgc
    Thank You
  • animal2animal2 Posts: 11
    the problem is in the rubber boot between the door and the frame the black ground wire is broken and needs to be spliced.. reconnected.. make it a little longer by splicing in a piece of supple wire the original wire is to stiff and subject to break.. fairly easy repair
  • animal2animal2 Posts: 11
    oil pressure guage working interminterly returns to normal after a couple of starts problem is mostly in the morning any help would be appreciated
  • Obviously I'm not a mechanic, but I hate bringing my car in when it's a simple part that I can easily swap out myself. I had that recently happen with the oil sending unit and I paid almost $100 to have the guy take 3 minutes to change a part.

    So... I'm currently having a problem with my oil pressure. It's dropping drastically low after my car warms up (I'm in Minnesota). I've ensured that the oil isn't low or anything like that. So when I come to stop signs/lights I keep on foot on the brake and rev the engine a little to keep the oil pressure up.

    Are there some simple things that I can look for as the culprit or am I just going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

    Thanks for the help.
  • Funny you should ask....the blend door broke on my 2004 Jeep GC and has just been fixed. Conveniently enough I had a bunch of electric issues caused by shorts in my wire hardness in the drivers door and I had to take it to the dealer to be fixed. I was considering trying to fix the blend door myself, however it involved taking the dash out and alot of hassle. I had mine fixed at the dealer. The door itself is kinda spendy but they didnt charge much for the labor and it was well worth the money I spent. Be forwarned that the blend doors are flimsy and break often, which I believe could be yet another one of Jeep's design flaws. Good luck with getting yours fixed!
  • About a month ago I posted a message on this forum concerning some electric issues with my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Within a week and half all my power windows stopped working, my cruise control wouldnt engage, my interior lights wouldnt work, and the list went on and on. I checked the fuses and they were all good, I couldnt find the problem so I took it to the dealer. The service guy discovered that the wiring harness in the drivers door was bad and causing shorts thru out the electrical system. After talking to the service guys a while I learned that problems with faulty wiring harness is very common and had happened so much in Grand Cherokees that Jeep changed their design 2 years ago to correct the problem. While this sounds like Jeep was doing a good thing by changing the design to correct the problem, what they didn't do is issue a recall on the faulty wiring harnesses and jeep owners to continue to have shorts in their GC's electrical system and owners are forced to pay for these repairs, which can be expensive!
    I highly recommend that all Jeep owners who have had to have the wiring harnesses replaced because of electrical problems in their Jeep Grand Cherokees, contact Jeep headquarters concerning issuing a recall on the wiring harness with the design flaw so they can pay for the replacement of them, saving us the owners a huge repair bill. Maybe if we can get Jeep to issue the recall they will refund money paid to those of us who have already had to pay for these repairs once and will more than likely have to pay for the same repairs again!
  • The first thing you need to do is check your oil and make sure that it doesn't appear to be milky in color. Milky oil means water or coolant is in the oil. The two main causes of this are blown head gasket and the dreaded cracked head. If that is not the problem now, did the vehicle possibly have that problem before you got it? If it happened prior to you owning the vehicle, this could lead to the problem you're having. Although the head may have been repaired or replaced properly, not too many repair shops and mechanics go the extra mile to make sure that there is no damage in the bottom end. The only extra work that most do is add oil, drive the vehicle around, and then change the oil again to get rid of any water/coolant left in the engine. Sometimes that is good enough, other times you end up with a clogged oil pump screen. You will have great oil pressure in the 50-60psi range until the motor is good and warm. After that, if your not giving it gas, oil pressure drops and sets off the warning chime. You don't have to keep one foot on each pedal to keep it alive, it'll be fine at idle for occasional stop and go. It'll just annoy the crap out of you! I've had the same problem on my 2000 GC Laredo. Changed the oil pressure sending unit and it continued to do this. Long story short, drop the oil pan (this can be done without removing the motor - 4.0 I-6) and clean or replace the screen. While you've got access to it, replace the oil pump, it's tired! It's not too expensive. Anyway, sorry for the novel. I hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let me know. - dixiecrawler
  • Thanks. After some brief searching online, it looks like that might be the best course of action. I'm going to start with that; replacing the filter and oil pump.

    Thanks. I'll let everyone know if that does the trick.
  • i have a 96 grand cherokee with the v8 5.2 318 in it. i blew that engine and im now looking to replace it. i thought about putting the v8 5.9 360 engine in it but im not sure if it will work. would it be a simple swap or not and is it even worth it. i will be doing this myself with my neighbor so if its too complicated i will just stick with a stock engine.
  • ase4ase4 Posts: 1
    I've been dealing with overheating issues on my 00JGC since spring 07. After many trips to the repair shop where they were unable to get the engine to overheat while there. They just disassemble the engine and found a cracked head.
  • matt60matt60 Posts: 1
    What are some common problems with Cherokees with over 140,000 miles. The one I may buy is a 2000 sport. There is a new transfer case but the rest of the vehicle is factory.

    Also what can I look for to be sure these problems are not existing.

  • Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has had/heard of this problem. 3 days ago I was driving and after a few seconds as I came to a yield sign, my car locked and died. I turned off the car and restarted without any problem. Same thing happened the next day. Then yesterday I drove it (2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo) with no problems. Today I got in my car for work, it starts up just fine (and stays running) but the car wouldn't move. When I try to reverse the car it makes a horrible screeching sound. We were able to determine that the left rear wheel is not moving at all (which explains the bad noise and the fact that the car won't move). Does anyone know what I should do? I'm going to have to have it towed, but I'd like to have some idea as to the problem before I do since I'm sure whichever shop I have it taken to will be expensive. I have checked all of the fluids, the only one that looks a little strange is the transmission fluid which is pink, but it has little bubbles in it like water could be in there. I live in Utah where it has snowed constantly and my car sits outside, and from what I hear this could be normal condensation but it may also be part of the problem. Any ideas?
  • smeagsOO

    Sorry, no fix yet. The battery, ignition switch and console unit with the A/C knobs have all been replaced, but still flickering. If you get a fix please post. I will do the same
  • well i used armor all on it and it brought it back to life but i would also like to know what worked for you
  • I've done turn signal bulb changes on both the front and rear corners of my 97 and ( the jeeps are virtually the same ) .., neither one turned out to be that tough. I just went out and checked it again, it's been awhile. First you'll need a torx screw driver. Bend down and peek between the horizontal turn signal housing and the headlight unit and you'll see in the narrow slot a screw head. It's recessed a few inches so the screwdriver will need to be about 6 or 8 inches long and slim. Once this is out.gently pull on the signal unit .wiggle it left and right , jeep likes to use a push-in kind of locating/attaching unit in combo with a screw here and there. you don't need to pull the grill as another fellow mentioned. be patient it'll happen.
  • My sons have an '00 and '01 GC's. Changed the blend doors in both just a few months ago. The '00 is fine but the '01's in heat mode all the time no matter what the controls are set on. This occured several weeks after the repair.
    Any ideas about the cause? I would rather not tear the dash out again. He does not live at home and I wanted to get a little input before he brings it to me. Kind of like "no heat =broke blend doors" Thanks, Steve
  • I am having problems with my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with electrical totally shutting down. I sometimes have to retry the ignition key several times before the electrical system returns back to normal. The jeep has been to the dealership twice in last week. So far I have been told the battery, the computer, the alternator, the starter have all checked okay
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