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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • i have a 1997 jeep grand cheroke, and just recently it violently shakes when it gets close to 50mph, it seems to be fine when going front passenger tire has excessive wear on the outside tread, i don't know if that is a sign of the problem. any ideas?
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    Check your owners manual under the section covering "child door lock" This may be the problem
  • troll157troll157 Posts: 17
    Bought a 1994 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 engine REALLY shot.
    Found 1998 4.0, (complete), is the block and head gonna bolt-up under all the 1994 components?
  • bgash219bgash219 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 GCL 6cy 4 liter. I recently had to disconnect the battery and this is where the problem started. After reconnecting the battery the car turns on but refuses to stay running. Also my gauge cluster is not working at all. And the overhead console lights work, but the display is completely out. I know it isnt the fuel pump because I can hear it prime, and for the 3 or so seconds the car turns on for I can rev the engine up as much as i like. I have a few thoughts on this...Im just looking for some feedback from those who have had similar problems.

    1. It could be an oxygen sensor, throttle control sensor, or some other kind of sensor.

    2. It could be the battery (unlikely seeing as it turns on well, and the battery is less then a year old)

    3. It could be the PCM (powertrain control module)

    any thoughts on this would be helpful. I dont want to pay thousands to fix a 40 dollar problem.
  • :shades: WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I bought my 5.9 (we call it THE BEAST) w/55k and the only probs. I had were anti-sway bar links both front axles (easy replacements) and the fact it didn't have its original front seats or radio... until the electric fan stopped working 0ne day ( I discovered the temp sensors switches in the radiator hoses were the culprits...$100 ea.) an the beast overheated one too many times...(even though I 've made a manual switch for it) Now I'm trying to figure out if the knock that's developed is a leak in the manifold or something worse...(knock on wood!) Dispite all that...I STILL LOVE MY BEAST! ;)
  • troll157troll157 Posts: 17
    Scary thought.....
    So, why did you disconnect the battery? Seems like, (more than once), I've opened the 12v. circuit to do some maintenance, installed a battery, dropped it on some wire loom disconnecting, (shearing or breaking), a connector somewhere, left fuses out, etc. The most recent situation I recall - I missed a wire when I installed the starter-motor. Retrace your steps.
  • shabrekashabreka Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, when I first got the car, there were no problems with it. but 2 or 3 weeks into having it, my check engine light came on. what could be the problem. its been on for like 3 months, nothing wrong with the car to me, besides the fact that it burns gas pretty quickly. :mad:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    take to auto zone they can read the engine codes and tell you what computer has stored
    also a loose gas cap can cause the check engine light
  • As stated in previous threads; I'm far from being a mechanic. Not even really at the level of being a back yard mechanic ...just like to save money.

    So I've removed all the old exhaust; catalytic converter, muffler, and exhaust pipe. Then installed the catalytic converter and muffler, however I can't for the life of me coax that exhaust pipe up around what I believe is a sway bar. Do I need to remove the sway bar? If so, I'll have to take it in somewhere. I tried and that torx nut and bolt is rusted on there solid.

    Any advice ...other than "take it in" :)

    Thanks in advance.
  • clipkarnclipkarn Posts: 20
    On my 97, the pipe fits pretty close to everything but it went in without taking anything apart. It goes over the stabalizer. I think I had to jack the body a bit to thread (wiggle) the pipe into place. Then it's all about fooling with exact angle of the big bend and the fore and aft adjustment using the muffler collar. A bit like wrestling a snake, but that's what makes do-it-yourself fun(?). Good hunting.---Clip
  • Did you take off the right rear tire? I just found something online that was very limited in the details, but I think that jacking it up like you say and then taking off the right rear tire will give me more room to work it.
  • bklaesbklaes Posts: 1
    I really need help with this one ive got an 04 GCL 6 cyl 4.0 ok here we go one time you can start car and it will idle 600 rpm and run great you can shut it down and restart and it will idle at 2000 to 2400 rpm for about 20 to 30 seconds then drop down to 600 rpm and run fine. it doesn't matter if motor is cold or warned up it might do it at cold start in morning it might not. sometimes you can start it up and it will run and idle great all day and then boom idles at 2000 rpm for about 20 30 sec and drop down too 600 I need help so what do you think!!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    unplug the tps and replug possably has dirty contacks that could be the cause of up and down idle
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    My wife drives a 1996 JGC. we bought it used at 80k miles and it's been problem after problem.

    Currently the headlights don't turn on. The high beams work fine, but there are no regular headlights so she can't drive the car at night. Also, and I'm not sure if this is related, but sometimes when she's driving the locks will start going haywire and just lock/unlock repeatedly for a minute or two.

    Should I replace the switch? What else could it be?
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Posts: 21
    After a recent trans service and sched svc by the dealer, there is now a distinct odor, either fuel or trans fluid, that comes in via fresh air intake. Two dealers claim they have checked it six ways to Sunday, but cannot find anything. I'm not crazy, and the odor is there. Numerous passengers have noticed it also. Only noticable when idling. This has been going on for months, so if something spilled, should have burned off by now, no?

    I need help with some out of the box thinking. Anyone ever had any problems with this? Does it hot or cold.

  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tip, I figured it out a few months ago and it was exactly what the problem is. No problems with the warning lights since I changed the unit. I think I paid ~$45 for the unit and saved a couple hundred in labor from the mechanic.
  • Does it smell like vinegar?
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Hi fellow sufferers. Following a change of right front CV joint, I have an oil leak that runs down the inside of the tyre.I didn't notice an oil seal when I withdrew the drive shaft nor was there a replacement in the kit. Any ideas how to stop it, I guess it's coming from the front diff.

  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Forgot to say it's a '98 GCL.
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Posts: 21
    No it doesn't. Interesting question, why?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Can anyone give me an estimate on the weight of an empty fuel tank?

    I have a 97 JGC with 4.0L I6. The engine idles rough. Fuel pressure test is out of spec. Replacing fuel pump requires removing fuel tank.

    Thanks in advance.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    The weight will be something in the order of 50 pounds.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport Utility SE 4D 4x4 6cyl
    I went with my Dad today to look at one of these to buy for the sole purpose of a "dog walk" vehicle. For a mere $3000 he could have a 4x4 to go in the spillway with. Anyway, I basically wanted to get some comments from people on what the weak points are and/or what something could be from my descriptions.

    [*]It has 140k miles on it.
    [*]Its automatic with the 4x4L and H drive.
    [*]The front windows are roll up manuals and the rears are electric which is strange to me.
    [*]The gas and speedo gauges seem to intermittently work. Cause?
    [*]Steering it feels like steering a boat. The response is pretty late. Is this typical/normal? Just alignment? Steering wheel? Just new struts/shocks?
    [*]Does it normally shift harsh in 2W or 4W drive? I have never driven one like this before so I don't know, but it seemed abnormally harsh to me from other cars/suv's I've driven.
    [*]What does "PART TIME" mean when the 4W drive is engaged? Shows up on the dash.
    [*]What is involved in fixing the Oil Leak if its the rear main seal? What are typical leak points for this vehicle? What other gaskets or whatevers would need to be bought and replaced during this repair if its the rear main?
    [*]Whats the tire pressure supposed to be? Why'd it seem like the rear tires (on concrete) were making a lot of noise when going slow turning in parking lots?
    [*]A/C seemed barely cool enough.
    [*]BIG TIME.... BIG TIME.... OIL LEAK all over the bottom? Typical? Rear main seal? Oil pan? Whats do most of you see?
    [*]Brakes seem to respond late, but I'd imagine seeing as the brake fluid looks like muddy water its never been flushed and probably needs new pads/rotors.
    [*]Probably leave the transmission alone right? Probably never been flushed and would lose it if I flush the fluid? Does this thing have a special fluid setup in the back and front since its 4 wheel?

    For the problems mentioned assuming those are "all" and knowing this will not be a vehicle driven anywhere else, but the spillway for walks with the dog would this be a reasonable investment?

    Thanks so much !
  • dawn16dawn16 Posts: 4
    I just bought this 2000 grand cherokee laredo, havent' been able to drive it.thought the dealer was on the up and up.. guess not..Have replaced the coolant fan relay, thermostat and it is still over heating with in a few seconds. even in idle. it immediatly goes to hot.. after running it a few minutes the overfull fills up, after shutting it off it goes down as fast as it came up, The light that looks like a camera comes up(check,engine,emissions,etc)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have bad head gasket
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    With engine cold and under normal circumstances, at idle it should take a couple of minutes for the engine coolant to warm up.

    A suggestion to consider: Drive or tow it to a radiator shop and ask them to pressure check the coolant system and check the engine coolant temperature sensor. The results should point you in the right direction.

    Expect to pay for their time to look at it. Ask about the fee up front.

    If tests look OK and it's not big $, I would replace temperature sensor just to eliminate it as an unknown. If the problem is the gauge in your dashboard, it will be difficult to pinpoint.

    Beware. You could get misled. If drivable, get a 2nd opinion before making big $ repairs. Don't tell the 2nd mechanic that you've already had it looked at .

    If somebody offers you a lower estimate because you won't make the repair right away, run as fast as you can.
  • I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the cruise control went out on me and the blower would some times come out of the defrost only when i turned it to high now it stopped working completely, i replaced a 1/4" vacuum tube under the battery tray thru the passenger side head light that was in pretty bad shape and now my cruise is working again but my vents still do not blow air out. Is there an other vacuum tube under the battery tray that I missed and will i have to take the battery tray out to find more lines or is it a totally a different problem?
  • osh3osh3 Posts: 2
    I am trying to locate a rubbing noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side rear tire. Figuring it had to be the brake pads ( shoes or pads ) I took the rotors in to the shop to be checked to see if they were warped. They didn't show signs of it, but what else could it be. Well they weren't warped and after reassembly the noise is still present. So, the fact that the rubbing noise is linked to speed and goes away when the brakes are applied, foot or parking. Could it be axle bearings? Drive shaft bearings? I thought to raise the vehicle and place on jack stands but didn't wish to become an entertaining UTube video. It just seemed to dangerous.

    anyone have a thought as to how to continue the diagnosis?

    Jim O'
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if have bad wheel bearing
  • My Jeep lately is getting hot when I am Idle or at a red light. While driving the temperature stays ok. Also when idle the AC gets hot. The temp at idle is around 210. Just a note, while the vehicle is turned off I can freely spin the fan blade,, and when I turn off the vehicle with it hot the fan is not spinning. What do I need to do.

    Thank you, Christina
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