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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    I can't help you with the freon leak, but I also have a 1996 JGC that had the wet passenger side floor.

    I just posted this link a few messages back(#4155):
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    take to ac man they have a freon detector should be able to find leak
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and I have Chrysler shop manual for it.

    1. The wet floor board is probably due to the drain line being plugged at the condenser. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line. I've never done that repair.


    2. If any of the fittings use O-Rings, find them and replace the O-rings. After 12 years of engine heat they are in less than perfect condition. You might have to buy a special disconnect tool (not big $). But there is risk of breaking a fitting when you work on it yourself.

    3. The Chrysler manual says put the vehicle where there is no wind, evacuate freon, recharge and use "electronic R-134A" leak detector", whatever that is.

    Auto a/c work is difficult for diy. I hope it's a line leak and not the compressor.

    96 thru 98 were the best years.
  • corsairdncorsairdn Posts: 2
    Ok, so I've read several similar issues but here is mine. My 98 GC 2WD has a dead battery so I replaced it and also replaced the neg cable connector due to corosion. The new battery dies so I charge it and take it to the dealership who keeps it for 3 days and replaces a broken hatch light switch (although the lights never remained on), $300 and the next day, its dead again so I take it back and after a week they can't find anything draining the battery. So I bring it home troubleshoot it with a test light on the neg cable and nothing indicates a drain when the switch is off, so I replace the new battery again and still the problem exists! Its driving me crazy since no one can find anything draining the batter when the switch is off. Any help or advice out there! :mad:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try and disconect the small wires to the altnator when you park for a few days
  • corsairdncorsairdn Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I'll do that this weekend but if the battery doesnt drain then does that mean its an alternator issue even though the charging system works normal?
  • I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have had this car for the past 2 years, but not until a month ago did an alarm start going off every time I enter my car. The only way for me to disengage the alarm is to start the car after I enter it.

    This presents a problem because another issue is occurring simultaneously. Sometimes it will not start at all. It appears as if there is some kind of power problem, that I usually solve by messing around with the fuses. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. I have an stereo system connected to an antenna that comes up when the car is started. Whatever is keeping the car from starting is connected to the issue with the stereo system because at times when the car will not start I have no power going to the radio, cigarette lighter or windshield wipers. All other displays, power and lights work fine regardless.

    When this happens I can't start the car until my antenna and radio come on. In the past year Ive had the starter and several other parts replaced, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

    The alarm is supposed to make other people afraid to enter my car- not me. Haha.

    Any Ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    yep the internal reg has a short
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you replaced the ingnition switch?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and have considerable experience with this problem.

    If the liftgate ajar switch on the liftgate or the one on the liftglass is faulty or has come loose, the body control module will not turn off and will drain your battery in 1 or 2 days. A schematic or connector pinout will show 1 liftgate ajar (digital) input on the BCM, but this input is the wired OR of the above 2 signals. I believe BCM uses this signal to disable rear wiper.

    To check this out:

    (1)disconnect (-) of battery and remove the bulb mounted in the hood.
    (2) connect ammeter (10A) between (+) post and (+) cable.
    (3) reconnect (-) of battery
    (4) Whatever you do, DO NOT start it.
    (5) Make sure all doors closed and manual lights turned off

    If you have above problem, current will read about 200-300 mA and never drop. When working correctly, the current should drop to 30 mA in a minute or two.

    Note: if current is negative it means ammeter is hooked up backwards. Solution and troubleshooting require removal of interior panel on liftgate.

    When you open a door, it should draw around 5A until you close the door and the lights go off.

    If you have the above profile, read on. If you have much larger drain, it is probably something else.

    Removing electrical connectors from the switches should temporarily fix the problem and pinpoint the cause The switch on the liftglass is just a press fit. First, I tried to make it fit more securely. It was OK and then came loose again. I had to drill a small hole and use a tiny screw to keep it in position.

    Another potential cause is if the body control module cannot communicate with another module like the door module over the Chrysler data bus. I found a service bulletin about this. The switch on driver door to disable locks/windows on other doors uses the data bus to communicate with other modules. Correct operation gives some indication the bus is working.

    It is very possible, dealer replaced one of your switches and it was working when you left the lot, but it has come loose again.
  • cenoceno Posts: 1
    Is there a site or link that shows which condenser is for which model and as importantly, how to replace the condenser. I have heard the better part of the dash needs to be removed. Any help is appreciated.
  • catsfancatsfan Posts: 2
    Unusual pattern: Blower will run for 3-8 minutes and cut off. When it runs, it runs on all speeds. When it cuts off, the blower motor feed reads 0V between red and black. Using a jump wire from battery negative side, 11.95V red to ground. If I jump the fan motor, it runs just fine. I can't find where to trace the ground. Any ideas where and how to figure out this problem? Does the ground go through the resistor?
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    The AC condenser is mounted in front of the vehicle radiator. If it is bad --replacement is the only alternative. The condenser will appear as a minature radiator. Its job is to release the heat from the cooling process system (as in radiator fin) via the small fins attached to the condenser ( page24-7---- 99 cherokee service Manual) Now if the problem is the evaporator coil( finned device thru which cold refrigerant liquid passes----and hot air in the car passes over and is cooled) is bad---then the dash job is required. The evaporator is located in a common housing with the heater coil assembly---inside and behind the dash----S Swann
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    First, I assume you mean evaporator. The evaporator is under the dash. I have a 97. I bought the Chrysler shop manual on ebay. In the A/C section they don't give any part info. They do show that heater/air conditoning is contained in an integrated housing. It looks like you pull that out and then hope you can extract the evaporator. Once you have that, hopefully it will have a stamped part number or barcode label. I am not sure, but I think the screws for the dash are not all the same length so you have to track where they go. Good Luck.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Thanks for tip. This post will close this thread and summarizes the project.

    The following repairs made it run much, much better
    1. Service ignition
    2. Valve cover gasket
    3. Pull throttle and clean; new idle control valve
    4. New canister purge solenoid
    5. Replace several vacuum hoses
    6. Pull intake/exhaust manifolds; clean intake; new gasket
    7. air filter

    Individually, each one had small impact, but collectively they had big impact.

    It still has too much vibration at idle which is probably due to cylinder 2 testing at 120psi instead of 150. Will address in fall.

    Had my mechanic look over transmission. It was 2 quarts low !
    Now works great. I serviced the pan and the new transmission fluid is not red anymore. It's clear and I am paranoid about overfilling.

    Thanks to everybody for their help
  • qurickdqurickd Posts: 1

    So I've spent some time searching the web and this forum to see if I could solve my problem without posting...but alas.. I seem to be the only one with this issue. I got my rotors rotated today and when parking my JGC tonight I heard a whistling noise. It almost seemed like high pressure air being leaked out right below my passenger doors. Any clues as to what this could be? Should I have it looked at? Or is it an easy fix?

  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    My wife's car is a Ford Escape. My mechanic says that the original rotors cannot be turned. He says Ford made them from a soft metal so they wouldn't squeal. Anyway, he said they were too soft to machine and I had to buy new rotors. He's been right so many times I don't doubt him anymore.

    The composition of the pads they installed and/or compatibility with your rotors may be an issue. If you do some of your own work, Autozone may carry lubricants or cleaners designed to eliminated brake squeal. It may only require removing the tires.

    For convenience, one time I took my jeep to a shop near where I work. The put on a new serpentine belt that would squeal really bad sometimes. I do some of my own maintenance, but not this one. I am no fan of the dealer, but I took it to the Jeep dealer and asked "Can you put a serpentine belt on it that won't squeal?". They said yes and they did. I did not like the price, but I knew they could do it.

    If you had the work done at one of these low $ brake shops that may be the problem. Some situations need high quality parts and an experienced installer, but it's hard to judge.
  • kbonkbon Posts: 8
    Has anyone replaced the spark plugs in a 2005 w/Hemi? Both maintenance schedules show to replace them at 30K miles. Did you replace with the same plugs that were original or go with something from Bosch? Also, has anyone installed a cold air intake such as K&N?
  • howie56howie56 Posts: 21
    I have replaced the plugs on my JGC 5.7 at the Jeep garage w/ factory replacements shortly before a valve spring broke and the valve went into the piston :cry: It was under warranty I have had a K&N filter on my engine since it was brand new. No problems Just wondering if you have the same problem that I have with your 5.7 engine as when traveling at any speed down the road I get a surging ( 2 to 300 RPM's) no matter what speed that I'm going ? Jeep keeps telling me that it's a normal occurance but the jeep shop forman and I don't agree with that. If you could let me know I'd be very appr.
    Thanks and I hope that this helps You some what

  • kbonkbon Posts: 8
    Ouch on the valve spring!! I haven't noticed any surging. I have noticed around 55mph that it does some hunting either for the right gear/lockup on torque converter and the MDS. I've had a K&N filter since it only had 5K on it. Am planning to install a K&N air intake which replaces the box on the front of the engine with a direct route from the filter to the intake manifold. Any reason to use the OEM plugs vs. some of the higher tech Bosch plugs other than price?
  • When you say that you had your rotors "rotated", I'm assuming you mean that you had them turned, or machined. If so, were all four turned or just the front? If just the fronts were turned, your problem could be the in the rear. Let me know what all was done and maybe we can figure it out from there.
  • I have a '95 jeep cherokee, Straight 6, 4.0L. I can't figure out why I'm not getting any fuel to the engine. Replaced the fuel pump and filter already. And nothing, No fuel is coming out of the fuel rail. And suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • catsfancatsfan Posts: 2
    Problem solved: Heater control was bad. Bought a used control, installed it in a few ninutes and all is back to normal.
  • mvc2mvc2 Posts: 2
    I'm in the market for an SUV and I've narrowed my choices down to two vehicles (02 Explorer limited vs. 01 Grand Cherokee Limited). I am extremely interested in both and they both feature the V8 engines with about 80k miles. Both have leather, power everything, etc. etc.. The Explorer has 20" rims and the Jeep has a 4" lift kit with over sized tires. Both are in immaculate condition appearance-wise. Both these vehicles are private owners, not a dealership so no warranty would be involved.

    Besides the usual test drive (they both drive great), I did take them into a mechanic to inspect them. Fortunately they're both mechanically sound.

    I don't feel like jumping through hoops for the bank and have to make payments so I plan on paying cash for one of these two SUV's which I've worked really hard for.

    My question is; Given you're knowledge of the two make and models, which one would most likely give me the least problems (mechanically) approaching 90k to 150k miles?
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    You are on a Jeep forum so I don't know how many Explorer comments you'll get.
    I think the 02 Explorer was the newer body style as I looked at Fords in Jan 02 and they were not quite out yet (I compared with a Escape and it did not pass the "wife test"). So I bought an 01 GC and have been generally happy with it.

    Other than the infamous brake problems which we got free calipers and rotors under warranty, the only other mechanical problems were minor: 3 bad seat heaters, stuff like that, all fixed under 3/36 or the extended warranty. I had a power window regulator go in 07, another notorious problem, and did it myself for $100 w/A1 autoparts vs $500 at the dealer. Oh yes, I have a loaded Laredo with the I6 and Selectrac since my mechanic said it was the best combo Jeep ever made, so I sold it to my 21 year old son last Fall and no problems in almost a year at 87k miles now. I presume you are looking at one with the 4.7 V8 and automatic 4wd quadratrac, more complicated so you may have more concerns with higher miles (can you tell if the transfer case and differentials were ever serviced?). FYI, I bought an 07 GC loaded Laredo last Fall and got it with the V8 & quadratrac since they no longer make the I6. I needed to tow a 3000lb boat and the torquey V8 does a much better job than Jeep's new V6. I would have preferred a shiftable Selectrac but you can't even get that unless you buy a Liberty, no comparison in ride etc compared to a GC. What was real interesting is I paid $1000 less 6 years later, but last Fall they had a $4000 rebate vs 1000 on the 01, and I have a lifetime powertrain warranty. I bet I could buy the equivalent 08 for a few thousand less with our $3.80 gas here in the midwest this summer.

    Back to the 01, if the mechanic checks them both out it's a tough call. I am happy with my 01 or I obviously would not have sold it to my son and both another Jeep.
    But I've heard the earlier quadratracs had some issues. I am sure Explorers have issues too. Good luck! Another good pro-Jeep site is
  • Wondering if anyone could give me instructions on replacing the radiator cooling fan on my 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. To my eye it doesn't look that complicated, but I'd like someone who has done it to tell me what I'm getting into.
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    If you are speaking of the electrically operated auxillary fan the book instructions are:---remove the two bolts holding the fan crossmember--disconnect the wire connections---raise the fan straight up and out--replace by repeating in opposite order.
    If U are referring to the fan blade attached to the water pump--take this route. Loosen the four fan hub bolts(do not remove them yet)--Remove the serpentine belt--U do this by lifting the upper idler wheel(use a long wrench on the bolt in the center for leverage_ when belt slackens lift it off the alternator pulley --then remove belt.
    You may have to remove the fan shroud for the fan and viscous idler removal--now, remove the four fan hub bolts previously loosened. remove the fan, water pump pulley,viscous hub assembly as a unit(shroud may have to be lifted out at same time.) Never lay the viscous hub down--always keep it propped upright. Reinstall in reverse order.
    Enjoy the busted knuckles---Good luck
    Smokey Swann
  • Thanks Smokey. I guess I was hoping for a little more decription about how to get to the fan. Do I have to remove the grille to get there? How about the shroud over the top? Any more tips would be appreciated.
  • If you have fund an answer to this question please let me know. I have an 04 Grand Cherokee and Im having the same problem. Although mine passed inspection with no problems. My email is

  • jamin13jamin13 Posts: 1
    If you have not resolved this yet I would look at the ground connections to your battery. I had the same issue with my 97 JGC and that was the issue.
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