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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • Check the power steering fluid level. It may be low.
    Good luck
    S Swann
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have a switch down on the lower end of stearing coloum by your feet sounds as if mounting screws have came loose or switch is bad
  • Hi
    if you dont feel the vibrating when you brake, it could be something silly like your wheels needing balancing or there could be a problem with track rod end, ball joint or suspension.
    take it to a garage you trust for tehm to look at.

  • Hey I have a 2004 JGCL and while I am driving my speedometer and RPM will go crazy then all my gauges will go down and then I will die. Sometimes it will restart sometimes it won't. They have replaced the ECM, the auto shut off relay and now they are saying it could be the wiring harnes which will run me 2,000 dollars.

    Also my A/C Clutch fuse keeps blowing. They say the clutch is bad.

    ANY IDEAS???
  • Sounds like what my '04 is all the gauges go down before she dies and does the RPM and speedometer go crazy?
  • jhuckjhuck Posts: 17
    I had that once before a battery died. Check the battery charge before spending more money.
    I go through a battery a year sometimes making an 18 month stretch and only once it happened this way.

    Good Luck
    (2000 JGC first/only owner)
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    It may have changed, but my experience has been that the Engine Computer(ECM) has wires that connect to the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM also has wires that connect to other parts of car. The BCM controls instrument cluster. It's another computer in the car. ECM needs to communicate with BCM or car won't run.

    After replacing your ECM, your problem could be wiring between BCM and ECM, the BCM itself, or both. Or it could be a wiring harness for ECM that connects to engine. Because dash is acting funny, I would look at BCM first.

    The only way to know what is going on is to pull the BCM, inspect it and inspect wiring harnesses, i.e. the connectors that plug into BCM. I'd be very surprised to find a damaged section of wire 1/2 way between ECM and BCM. My BCM has 3 connects. 2 are 32 pin and one is 24 pin. The BCM has a lot of wires.

    It's a pain to get at. It's under dash. Mine is to left of steering wheel. Disconnect (-) on battery first. Start pulling panels off dash and you should be able to find it. You have to disconnect cables before removing it. Be very careful with connectors. It's easy to break the retaining tabs (I did it). Initially, cables are hard to disconnect. There is risk. The good news is that once you have it you can stop guessing all the time.

    1. You could have a broken or bent pin where the cables attach to BCM. Replace BCM.
    2. A single wire or group of wires may have pulled out from the connector. You only need repair these wires. Not replace whole harness.
    3. The end of the wire may have gotten pushed back into the connector, but it didn't pull completely out. Inspect connector sockets with flashlight.
    4. You can try re-installing the BCM and make sure connectors are on tight (push em in). Your problem may have been loose connector.

    If you have to really stretch a harness so it can connect to the BCM, that's probably your problem. The original harness is too short. You will have to replace harness.

    If you suspect BCM, you can probably get used one for about $200. It has to be programmed with info from your BCM or car won't start. I believe you can find this service on the web. Cost is ?, but certainly a lot less than $2,000.

    This is time consuming which is why dealer cost is high. You have to like your car or enjoy this activity.

    You will certainly know more about the problem. You could get lucky and spot something obvious that fixes it completely.

    Good luck
  • I have just bought a 2004 grand cherokee Laredo Special Edition with only 5580 miles on it...that's right.....ACTUAL miles!!. My question to the experts is......Would it be a good idea to use Mobil 1 synthetic oil? I want to convert to synthetic oil, as i have on all my other vehicles, but would like to hear your opinions.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have used it in my 2000 and have 188000 miles on it and still dont use any oil betwen changes at 7500 miles
  • I have about 10 grand in repairs and upgrades on my 99 GC laredo V8 4x4 quadradrive 2. Dealer mechanic claims that replacing the 2 front tires only will destroy the transfer case, even though the rears are only 1 year old. I bought goodyear wrangler SSR all season radials for the front,(same as factory uses) and left the rears alone, since the fronts were bald. The rears have almost 90% of their tread left.
    BTW, I bought this beautiful gunmetal V8, heated leather clad seats, infinity stereo, etc. For 6500 in March 08. For a laredo, it has every option except cd changer. THANK GOD I BOUGHT THE CHRYSLER POWERTRAIN WARRANTY!!!!!!. Chrysler paid out 7200 in replacing the all wheel drive system, engine computer, trans computer, body computer, transfer case, all 4x4 related seals, battery, and two tires, A rental car was provided free. Safford dodge/jeep in Springfield VA is very honest and has always kept their promises, but I just dont buy the fact that I need to replace all 4 tires at once. Please help!! I dont want to mess up my finally-fixed jeep. Thx, Chris :lemon:

    Is the mechanic being truthful? The rear tires AREE the exact same size, but a different brand with a more sporty/passenger tire look. I need to go to buffalo in December...will transfer case go bad due to 1/4 inch tread difference?
  • I always was told the big problem is if you have two different sizes on left and right. The basic problem is the diamater of the tire..not the width. If there is a difference in the dia. It will work the case gears all the time. Can you take it out of 4 wheel all the time and shift to 2 wheel drive? That would solve the problem too. My 93 is 4 wheel all the time but I have to say I rotate the tires regular and when they all look bad I replace all four and have not had a problem. Just check the size. One way that is old fashion is to take a piece of string...nylon that will not stretch and wrap it around the tire and where the end meets mark it will a marking pen. Go do the same thing with the new tire. If there is a big difference then you might have something. If not I would just go for it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    yep you should replace all 4 tires on a all wheel drive as what your jeep is

    when you replace only one axel the trans fer case will think that you are sliping one axel and then shift power to the axel with old tires then shift back and forth as you go down road

    with 1/4 inch deffrence the tire will travel aprox 1/2 foot less than the axel with new tires thus working the viscus clutch pack in the transfer (that is the weakes iten in transfer case)
  • I recently purchased a 93 Grand Cherokee for my son. The alarm went off on it and i do not have a owners manual or reset button for this. How can i reset this alarm? I have tried placing the key in the passenger door and turning it several times, i have disconnected the battery cable as well trying to reset it this way. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • animal2animal2 Posts: 11
    if you have the remote opener press the alarm /panic button
  • I have a 97 JGC Limited 5.2 V8.

    Can I guess the rear end is a DANA 35c? How can I tell if it's a DANA 44? The bearings/seals are different according to a couple parts houses I've browsed.

    Anybody changed axle bearings? Do you need a press? Are there any not-so-obvious gotcha's?

    Any gouge will be appreciated.

    Cheers --- Clip
  • Did you ever find the issue with your transmission , sputtering/jerking?

    I have an 05 GC 5.7hemi with the same issue, I have had the torque converter replaced and even looked at several engine side components but have not found anything.
  • Any luck, is your jeep fixed, my 05 hemi has been doing the same thing since about 30k miles
  • howie56howie56 Posts: 21
    Hello : Just last week I had the Torque converter replaced as well as a 50% rebuild of my tranny as it was shuddering while under pressure ( like going up hills and such ) and when they checked the tranny a few of the clutches were badly worn . I haven't had it back long enuf to know if the problem has beeb fixed yet , but when I get a chance to take a trip I'll post another message with the results. Have a great day Roger :D
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Well I truly count this as the first real defect in my 11.5 mon old new Jeep.
    I thought it was an adjustment in the steering wheel security lock mechanism (they don't make it that way any more) but it turns out I needed a new key tumbler mechanism. 10% or so of the time when starting with either my wifes or my key, the ignition switch would not turn; I got it to turn after multiple tries and twisting the steering wheel, hence why I thought it was a wheel locking defect. At least we caught it before it failed 100% stranding us somewhere.

    Besides that I had the power window up TSB regulator replacement done last Spring, a minor inconvenience and more of a design defect than a fail (the window went up just not automatically all the time) mentioned otherwise on the JGC window sub-forum. And still the Radio AUX won't go back to AUX after more than a few minutes of power off problem, mentioned on the radio forum last Spring, and while a nit, a true design problem confirmed at the dealership. I would give the vehicle about a 8 out of 10 with the "new car honeymoon over" almost a year after purchase. I will probably give it a 9 again in 2 months during a snowstorm and it pulled my medium size boat very well all summer. Hopefully the quality will hold up as well or better than our 01 Laredo that is still going strong for my son at 92k miles. And if not Chrysler is still around in 7-10 years if we need to call on our lifetime warranty ....
  • Seen a lot about this issue but, have yet to find a thread that cures my problem. Im hoping that someone out there can help me! The truck will start, run for a few seconds and stall. Then to start it up again I have to give it a lot of gas. Then to keep it started I have to keep my foot on the peddle. I can shift into drive real fast and drive away. After the truck warms up it starts with out problems.
    Okay, I have cleaned the Throttle body and the IAC. I have replaced the throttle position sensor. I have changed the fuel filter. I have shortened the screws to the PCM. I have tried unpluggin the AC. Still no luck. I dont know if fuel injector cleaner will help, if I should change the crankshaft postion sensor, if I should change the camshaft positon sensor, or if I should be dumping the truck and never buying a jeep again! I need some help. Anyone???
  • Don't know for sure but.... Somewhere there's got to be a sensor that tells the ECU, ECM or whatever Chrysler calls it, what the engine temp. is. Go there and check/replace the unit. Engine runs so I wouldn't worry 'bout cam or crank sensors. What year we talking about?
  • Must be getting TOO od. 1994, Ok, With all electrics off, door closed so's the dome light aint, turn the ign. key on, off, on, off then on and leave it on. I'm NOT saying START anything. Watch the CHECK ENGINE light and count the number of times it blinks. It will blink each code as two digits. ie 5 blinks-short pause-5 blinks = 55. After the first two digit number there will be a longer pause then the next number. Haynes manual will run you right through the process and posibly even the definitions of the codes. This really only helps if the electronic engine management system has got faulty sensors. Hope this gives you some idea of what's up.
  • we have a 98 jeep grand cherokee, it will not rev over 2500 rpm we have been told its a vac problem we have checked all the hoses and can not find a problem. can the vac port on the fender pannel make this happen?
  • Are there any transmission gurus out there? I have a 95 GC 4.0 4x4. My trans will run perfect in 1rst and 2nd, but no 3rd or OD. I pulled codes 14 and 26 from the onboard tranny diag OD light. My local tranny shop suggested a new tranny at $1300 regardless of diagnostic codes. What are my next steps? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Whatever the engine is doing with your foot on the peddle appears to be necessary to keep it running.

    I have some suggestions which helped me.

    Do a compression test. See for gauges. If test results not too bad, then you have a chance. If you don't have compression, correcting other problems may not help much.

    Service ignition (plugs, wires, and coil) to eleminate that area as an unknown.

    Next, get the Haynes manual and go thru the section on emission controls and do every sensor, component, etc. test. You may have to create special test leads. See Radio Shack for miniature test clips and wire.

    Then, disconnect every vacuum line from the intake manifold except crankcase ventilation and plug the manifold openings. Make sure crankcase hose is OK. Any hoses to the air filter should be plugged after disconnecting. If it runs better, you have a vacuum peripheral issue. Reconnect vacuum lines one at a time to see what might be causing the problem.

    If you make improvements, but idle is still rough, consider replacing intake manifold or least re-torque the bolts.

    My one experience with this sort of thing was on my 97 jeep. It idled very rough. Would almost stall. There was no single item responsible for the problem. It was a collection of little problems and as I addressed each one it ran better. Idle is a little rough because compression on cylinder 2 was a little low, but no driveability problems.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Your problem may not be the host, but the peripheral connected to other end. Try disconnecting and plugging all vacuum lines except crankcase ventilation. Plug hose and plug where you disconnected it. If it works better, re-connect 1 at a time to diagnose problem. You may have more than 1 issue.

    If all else fails and you have time, replace intake/exhaust gasket and see what happens On 4.0L I6 they are combined. It's mostly labor. Gasket is not a big $ item. You can guarantee the intake gasket is not working as good as when it was new.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Your fate was sealed when you bought 4x4. I have a 97 4x2 with 170K and transmission shifts perfect.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be pluged cataletic converter
  • unekgalunekgal Posts: 15
    OK, a few weeks ago, prior to needing rear defrost in WV, I was loading stuff into the hatch and noticed as I looked up at the window that the piece that attaches the wires to the grid lines that run across the window to defrost was melted as well as the wires. We had not used rear defrost for a while and do not know where to begin to fix it. Is this a defective problem that Jeep should fix? Please help! Frosting every morning!!!
  • The head gasket in my 90 Jeep Cherokee Limited has blown for good now and I need a new engine. Found a wreck 94 Cherokee for a super great deal that has an engine with 75,000 miles on it. Wondering if they are compatible?
    Some how I have a love-hate relationship with this car and KEEP putting money into it....
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