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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will have to relieve fuel pressure and probably remove the fuel rail. Get the Haynes manual.

    I've done it. It's not as simple as removing a spark plug. You might have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it so take pictures before disassembly.
  • genel1genel1 Posts: 5
    Both turn signal and emer flashers not working...where are they located so that I may replace...have looked under driver's side dash and if they are there, they are hiding...thank you for your replies
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165 has online for flasher locations,see if either end is powered,as one side is the "out" lead that flashes..sounds like a power prob..check fuses..
    --my -98 had them behind the glove box door-check owners manual,as confusing as that one is..kinda frustrating ,when most of it says"go to the dealer" for something as simple as the door remote?,guess that's what you get when a german engineer gets ahold of something..a nice car,with special-complex problems!?!
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    According to my 1997 JGC Chrysler shop manual. The flasher is in the inside fuse panel. On my car fuses are inside the kick panel below and to the right of glove box.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    The fuse panel on the '93 thru '95 JGC is tough to find if you don't know what you're looking for! Open the front passenger-side door and you'll see the panel on the side of the dashboard next to the rubber seal for ducting to the side window defogger. It's only accessible with the door open.

    There is also a unit under the hood that they call the "Electrical Power Distribution Center". It's located under a black snap-off cover right behind the battery. It has the fuses for mechanical systems like ABS, Engine Control Module, Ignition switch, Headlamps and Fog Lamps, A/C components, etc.

    My '95 JGC owner's manual has excellent diagrams of both units and describes which particular feature(s) are tied to a specific number of fuse....the '94 should have the same.....if it has survived this long... :)
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • those had a recall on the fuel sending unit. try that.
  • genel1genel1 Posts: 5
    Have found both of those spots before. I am trying to put in turn signal and emergency flashers...still can't find
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    are the "flashers" still working?..if so,follow the "clicking" noise..
    -there are two seprate flashers for turn signals and emergency flashers..
    other than that-try going to a junk yard,and looking around inside of those partially disasembled junkers-of your model..
  • genel1genel1 Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help...fixed!
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    glad ta if i couls only get someone ta fix my rear axle-b4 it locks up!?
  • I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee Limited that after it has been driven a couple of miles begins to make a loud thumping sound from what seems to be the middle of the car and pulls to the right. After you stop the car for a few minutes, it goes away and then restarts after a 1/2 mile or so. Does anyone have any idea as to what can be causing this?
  • quaziquazi Posts: 5
    I am trying to change the oil pressure send unit on my 1999 Cherokee Sport . That part seems really easy. HOWEVER, I cannot disconnect the connector. There are two red button that look like they should be pressed together. But nothing happens, and I cannot get the connector off the send unit.

    Any ideas on what I am doing wrong. I do not want to destroy the connector.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have no experience with rear powertrain components, but I looked at my 97 jeep shop manual.

    Pg 3-17

    Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion gear shaft bore will also cause a low speed knock."

    Gven age of vehicle, a U-joint problem would not be surprising. I know what a U-joint is. I don't know about the other stuff.

    An underinflated tire can cause the vehicle to pull. I think the pull to the right and the noise each have their own cause.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    There may be another connector further "upstream" where the wire has a connector that allows wire to be removed. Or the mfr expected the part to be permanent and never replaced.

    Generally, there are 3 types of electrical connector: latch, press, and crimpted.

    With latched, you have disengage the latch while you are pulling it apart. Disengage latch and then pull.The connector will seperate into 2 halves.

    A press fit relies on friction to hold it together. If exposed to weather it may be very difficult to pull it apart.

    A crimped connector is permanent. You have to pull it off or cut it off. Strip the end of the wire and use a crimping tool to apply a new connector. Old connector cannot be reused.

    For press and crimpted, hold one end of wire with pliers so you don't pull it out at the other end.

    If all else fails, you will need wire stripper, soldering iron and electrical tape.
  • 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, wiper parks in the middle of the windshield. Any ideas?
  • Thanks alot. I checked the U-joints and they are good. The pulling starts when the thumbing starts. The two are related.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be a right front whee bearing have to jack up tire and check it

    Jack up the tire and grab top and bottom and shake the h**l out of it see if loose if it is wheel bearing need to be checked better
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 4x4 only when i put it in 4x4 going straight no noise but when i turn left or rt i hear a loud clicking and seems like a buckling noise. when out of 4 wheel drive there is no noise only in 4x4
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I just finished rebuilding front end on my Toyota pickup. It's not 4x4 but I learned a lot. Steering and front suspension interact with each other. Add 4x4 and its more complex.

    It's just a suggestion, but put it on jackstands with the wheels aimed straight. Remove a tire and take pictures of how all the linkage looks. Then, put it on jack stands again with the wheels turned all the way. Remove wheel and take pictures again.

    Try to identify what looks different and then try to analyze it. Whatever components are in a new position may be the cause. Maybe you will spot something that looks funny or bent. Make sure the CV joint boots are not leaking. The outside of the boot should not be wet.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be the outer axel ujoints are bad will do that popping sound when bad
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    does the outer axel u-joints work when it is engauged in 4x4 are all the time. because the only time it does it is when i put it in 4x4
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that is the only time that you have power to them and if they are going bad will bind up when you have power and turning at the same time
    if they are open type ujoints should be able to see if they have play in them
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    do you know where and how i can get a diagram on the front u-joints
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have pdf version of the Chrysler shop manual. I think I bought it on ebay. Expect to pay close to $100. Another source is a subscription to "". It's not as good as the Chrysler manual, but in some cases gives you a lot more reference info than the Haynes manual. The Haynes manual is very good, but it is procedure oriented. If your troubleshooting or solution is not one of their procedures you to have to hope one of their pictures or diagrams will have what you need.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited March 2010
    Sometimes you can get lucky online with manuals (check with your local library).

    Online Repair Manuals
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    sounds like a right front bearing running without lubrication..any good wrench should be able to diadnose it..hope the nut hasn't welded itself to the spindle,as i've seen a few 2 wheel drive do that,and that takes replacing the ehtire spindle,i 3wd,you might have to replace the entire axle..find a good mecanic,or expect to stop every 1/2 mile-till it locks up completely!..and you get to walk home!
  • edub70edub70 Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I just finished replacing the engine in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. When I start the car, the engine backfires once or twice and revs out of control. I mean, it really revs up like a bat out of hell. Think: your foot all the way down on the accelerator while your car is in park. I immediately need to kill the engine.

    I suspect a major air leak, but inspection of the intake system looks good. The intake manifold is on tight, and I can confirm there are no vacuum hoses disconnected. I'm at a loss of what to try next. Any ideas?
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    start looking at basics-like,is the throttle linkage hooked up correctly?..the butterfly valve that lets air into the intake? how about the sensor that tells the computer how far the throttle valve is open?..
    -jeeps of that year are a real pain,as dalmer/chrystler won't release the comp codes,so we can fix our own cars !?!-even tho we own them,they still want to get their hands in our pockets for as long as we try to operate them ! -98 laredo-5,2,awd ain't as easy as it could be,where i was trying to change the transfer case so i could have a 2 w d setting,but if i did that,the computer would go nutz....i dunno,but i wish you luck !
  • I have an 06 JGC with about 60,000 miles on it, in the last, I would say 2000 miles or so, on a few occassions, I have been stopped at a stop light and when I went to accelerate from the stopped position, my RPM's would climb (4000) but it was as if the tires were on ice and might be spinning. I noticed on the digital gear indicator on the dash, that each of the the P R N D had the broken square indicator around it example [P] [R] [N] [D], I shifted into nuetral and then back into "D" and it went away, and it did it once at highway speed. Does any one have any experience with this happening? Aside from what I have discribed the transmission shifts and drives good as of the last 600 miles that I just drove, could it be a servicing issue? Speaking of servicing, does any one know how to DIY (do-it-yourself)?


  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you changed the trans oil and filters? jeep recommends every 30000 miles
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