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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi, I've recently had trouble starting my Jeep, as soon as I put the key in the ignition all the gauges come on as normal and so do all the lights and all other minor electronics but when I turn the key absolutely nothing happens, the jeep doesn't even try to turn over, someone mentioned that a key gauge is supposed to light up when the key is inserted but I haven't seen one light up.

    These are the things I've already checked out.

    -Jump started the jeep with no luck
    -Checked the starter fuse
    -I've also bridged the starter with a screwdriver which worked for a day but since then I've tried doing the same thing but it doesn't work.

    Any help would be great. Oh yea ever since I've had the jeep there are times that I have to push the gear shift in park a little more and it would start up right away, but that won't work either.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Try ebay motors. I've been buying a lot of parts there. I've seen new converters for sale. If you find one and it's not an oem fit, see if a muffler shop can make an adapter. You probably could use a new muffler or brakes. Ask them to install new cats as part of a pkg.

    I don't know what kind of reception you are going to get if you ask them just to install your new cats
  • I have replaced the battery, alternator and belts...Each morning the Jeep will crank, but will not start until I hit the gas pedal. Once it gets going, it will not idle so I have to keep the gas and break pedal held to shift into gear, which at this time still has a hard time going. The weird thing is when the Jeep is driven somewhat, it will start the next time throughout the day no problem??? I only have this problem in the mornings, but it seems to be getting worse. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you remedy this situation??? Please advise!
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited April 2010
    With electronic fuel injection everything is controlled by the engine computer. You shouldn't have to put your foot on the gas to start it.

    When you turn key to start it, give it at least 5 secs to start before you release key.

    Basically there's no reason to put your foot on the gas until the engine has started, you put it in drive, and you're ready to move forward.

    You might try cleaning the throttle and the intake manifold.

    The intake at the head should have a dry, black, carbon deposit if it is dirty. It should not be wet.

    Get a Haynes manual and follow their procedures.

    I have a Jeep with 178K, Ford Escape 120K, and Toyota pickup with 120K. I never had a problem that required replacement of the fuel injectors.

    I have had starting problems where the starter motor was not completely dead, but it was not functioning properly. Replacing a starter is one of the easier DIY jobs.
  • how do you remove the serpentine belt?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC with 4.0 L I6 and mine works this way.

    My tension adjustment bolt is attached to the power steering bracket. It is a very long bolt mounted at a 45 deg angle relative to the pump (/). You have to loosen the pump mounting bolts and then loosen or tighthen the tension bolt to adjust belt tension. If you can't get the belt off I suggest you look at removing the power steering pump. I know that will work because I had to remove pwr steer pump to work on engine.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    A great resource for locating used/salvage parts is the website

    The site has access to the inventory of thousands of salvage yards across North America. It shows you a list of what's available including the price, condition and location. Many of the vendors even offer a warranty on the parts they sell....and a return policy.

    I've had great luck finding parts for my '95 JGC Laredo 4.0L and my '06 Mazda3! :)
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • trawlinstrawlins Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I am not a mechanic by trade. I have the same 2 problems with my '95. I was told that the clicking that occurs as im turning corners is a steering nuckle problem. As for the not shifting right. We took our jeep into the dealer for a coolant system repair and it came home not shifting right. I was told that had something to do with the throttle body. Jeep denies any involvement of course but it ran PERFECT before they "tried" to fix it. :mad: I wouldnt recommend taking it to Jeep but some other small mechanic in town should charge you less and still be able to give you the info you need.
  • podedwardspodedwards Posts: 35
    My 2006 5.7 4WD Grand Cherokee has 68K miles and is by far the best vehicle I have owned in 45 years of driving. I am just now replacing the front brake shoes and battery. On the second set of tires and got nearly 60K on the factory Goodyears. It has been nearly flawless and I have used it on interstate, mountains, wet, snow and ice.

    It has ben sold, safe and reliable.

    I enter this information because had I actually believed the initial posts I would have believed it was a terrible vehicle. Complaints about modern autos seem to come from very poor drivers getting attention by complaining. Is that the current deal?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    for sure i have a 2000 GC and have 219000 miles on it get 75000 miles on my tires (use Michelin) other than that have radiator prob changed three seam to crack on the plastic tanks where joined to alum en core
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    I remember chatting with you a few years ago when I was debating buying a 2nd JGC vs other alternatives. It's great you enjoy the 06. My son is still having very good luck so far on his (my former) 2001 I6 loaded Laredo with 110K miles. I did end up buying a YE closeout 07 loaded Laredo 4.7 w/X package and it's done very well, just turned 29K mi. I am close to my first big scheduled maintenance with F/R differentials, maybe tranny fluid (I think I will try to do the plugs, they look reachable on the 4.7 which I am sad to see they discontinued). It's running great in MN winter and pulling our boat/trailer in the summer - I use the remote start a lot in winter. I won't get 60K mi on the GY Forteras despite regular rotation, lucky to see 40K but the Jeep is doing fine. I hope we get many more years and with the lifetime drivetrain I have on this 07, I plan to keep it going to 200K. I do agree with you, many tend to 'vent' on the internet for cars they are not happy with or perhaps do not understand or maintain ... I am sure there are some lemons out there but even our 01 Jeep with brake problems once we got new rotors/pads on (free under warranty 35K mi) the new F/R pads are still there at 110K mi!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    the 4.7 dont need plug change till 100,000 miles just check one but i put 100,000 miles on my gc 4.7 and the plugs were still ok just dont put in anything but what is called for as plantum cross fire etc drives the computer nuts trying to keep the engine in time has knock sensors all sort of things that effect timing and the computer takes care of all of this
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    I HAVE A DINOSUAR;compared to yours-a-98 laredo..with 137.456 on it,along with several IDIOIT owners ! !(NEVER put diffrent sized tires on a all wheel drive !it rips on the axle gears!along with other more sensetive parts)..but this one survives!
    ---one critique would be where we,as owners,could gain acess to the software to our own vehickles-bought and paid for-,but dalmer/chrystler still wants you to bring it to them-because they are the ONLY ones with the software,and will NOT release it to anyone but their service dept's!
    --the 5.7 is STILL rated as THE FASTEST S.U.V EVER BUILT!.!!
    --my little 5.2 isn't that far behind.. the largest problem is trip comp rates my n.p.g at everything from only 7 in town,to 14 on the freeway..that's only running marathon premium,as with it's age,it doesn't loke cheap gas--AT ALL! ! !
    -it won't start-with the remote start,sometimes taking three cycles to fire up and run-especially with -20f..temps..also,i NEVER use that 5-w-anything oil's too thin!
    10-w 30 AT LEAST..if you want the engine to last over many cars in the paper read "nice car-needs engine"..part of "planned obsolesence",where they want to sell you a new's wasteful,and fills up our'S A JEEP!! it climbs like a billygoat,hugs the road better than a mustang,if it only got better mileage?!
  • cstracycstracy Posts: 1
    The vehicle is full-time 4WD and while driving up a hill it feels like I'm going over a speed bump, but I'm not. I'm now starting to notice the same problem on flat roads after driving a steady speed for about 1 hour. The problem will occur 2 or 3 times and then quit. I'm not sure if this is a transmission problem or a drive train/transfer case problem. Any ideas?
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    Not sure if we are talking about the same problem but I have a '93 GC which has all the time 4W dr and just lately it acts like it is "catching" in first gear. Kind of jerking once or twice before staying in gear. Sometimes it just feels like it never goes into first and is starting out in second. If I manually put it in first it seems OK. Is this a sign that the fluid needs to be changed or that the Transmission is going out? I read that there are bands that need that true?
  • I've seen similar msgs. on here about front end shaking or steering wheel shaking when brakes are applied when coming from highway speeds to stop. Most say its the rotors but what could it be if you still have this problem after replacing the rotors and put on new brake pads? I thought the problem went away but it came back the same day I replaced rotors and brakes. Any help or info. would be of great help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    who replaced your brakes? you or a garage it sounds as if the wheel nuts were tightened to tight
    i have a tourk wrench in my jeep and when doing anything that involves loosing the wheel nuts i tighten them my self with my wrench took care of the shaking problem
  • I replaced the brakes myself but did not know that you had to torque the wheel nuts. If so, then how many lbs. are they to be torqued?? I used an impact to tighten them by the way.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    tighten to 90 lbs inpack wrench is a no no probably warped the rotors all ready that is what causes the shakes
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    How much is a good torque wrench?
  • Hopefully that hasnt happened yet but I will torque them 90 lbs and hope the problem goes away. Thank you. :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    harbor freight has them for 20 25 dollars
  • sabra2sabra2 Posts: 1
    2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - 6 cyl. Sometimes when I get on the Interstate and get to speed of 50, or so, when the rpm should drop, it will not, stays around 3 rpm if going 55 -60. Also it has started acting like it wants to shut off when I come to a stop. Sometimes the rpm will go almost all the way down and catch itself and go back to normal. Twice it has completely shut down. I have had the battery and alternator replaced last December (2009). Any suggestions? (I am female so please overlook my way of explaining - don't know the technical terms. Would like to try to educate myself somewhat before taking to someone.) Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    In your position I suggest you get somebody to first look at any control cables, electrical wires, and electrical connectors related to the transmission. Just a simple visual inspection should not be big $. If transmission has its own computer and its external to transmission, ask them to check the ground wire. They might suggest changing internal filter, but I don't think it will help. If you can, ask a general mechanic to look at it before you go to the transmission shop. I've had negative experience with transmission shops.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have them check the tps censer
  • drtyme1drtyme1 Posts: 1
    Hey folks,

    Would replacing the wrong fluids in the diff cause damage? replacing 70/140 with 70/90 ?

    Need a bit of advice ... I took my vehicle in to one of these quick lube places ... they had recommended changing the fluids in the front and rear diffs. I was not experiencing any issues with the vehicle but since the fluids as far as I know were not changed ... I ok'd the work.

    Shortly there after I started hearing a grinding noise coming from the rear ... Great I just changed the fluids now a noise ... took it into a shop... told him I just had the fluids changed ... so he wrote off the diffs and said it sounds like the wheel bearings ... replaced the wheel bearings .

    The noise still there ... this is when i start looking into what was replaced in the vehicle ... the shop has admitted replacing the fluids with the wrong grade ... however the are not accepting that the wrong fluids caused damage.
  • twagner76twagner76 Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I have a 97 jeep cherokee i had to flush the radiator two days ago. and two day i wen to go fishing with me dad and the low radiator hose came loose. NOW she is nocking hard core. and the oil pressure gauge will not move now also. what is going on :mad: :sick:
  • lynne16lynne16 Posts: 2
    How do I check the levels for my transmission oil on my grand cherokee 2003 crd, I cant find the dipstick??
    Any ideas very much appreciated
  • lynne16lynne16 Posts: 2
    I have purchased a 2003 grand cherokee crd but dont have the instruciton manual for the sat nav, does anyone know where i can get hold of a copy?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    My jeep is older than yours, but I bet dipstick is in same location. Mine is close to the firewall on the driver side and it is very low. You have to reach down. The handle may be black and its a little dark down there. On other cars I own it is much easier to find. Yours may be on passenger side, but I bet its still down low and close to firewall.
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