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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • ghbj1ghbj1 Posts: 1
    I have an '02 JGC. Yesterday I used an excellent kit by 3M to sand and polish the headlamps. The faces are beautiful, but the lamps are still fogged internally. I have been told that the problem cannot be fixed because the lamps are in housings (so how does one replace a bulb, so how did the condensation get in there to begin with?). Something doesn't add up here. Does anyone have experience remvoing fog/condensation from the INSIDE of the headlamp housings? Many, many Thanks.
  • eman78eman78 Posts: 1
    i recently fixed the ac on my jgc,i was told by the crook of a mechanic i used to go to that i had to replace the blower motor and resistor.what i did was i removed the blower motor (it's located under the glove compartment and it's held in place by 3 star head screws)after i disconected the power line, i tested it by hooking it up directly to the car battery,and it worked! after wich i removed the resistor wich is a plastic box about 2 inches to the left of the blower motor,3 wires hook up to the resistor from inside of the engine.2 of these wires had come loose i reconected them to the resistor,problem your case you may have to replace the resistor, 90 to 100 dollars,worst case scenerio you would also have to replace the blower motor(very rear for this peace to go dead)on ebay they go for about 50 bucks,removing and reinstalling these parts was one of the easiest repairs i've ever done,and i'm no if i can do it pretty much everyone out there can too,
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    my-98 has one shiny-fresh lens,-aparently from a repair.i've tried ,but can't get them to match!?!..oh well!'s a jeep,and that's not it's only "battle scar",so i live with it..
    --you probably have a crack in the foggy lens somewhere , and that moisture in that lens COULD make it fail -or go out when your replacing the bulb,they tell you to NEVER touch the bulb-cause the oils in your skin will make the bulb explode,so i dunno how forgiving it is with water,but it's probly best if you could get it out..
    --what i did was pull the entire lens-one spring and it bslips out of the adjusting screws-after you pull the three/four screws and pull the grill..
    unplug the bulb,then-CAREFULLY twist the collar,and pull the bulb out,and set it on a clean paper towl..if you do touch the bulb,clean it with some rubbing alcohol-windex,etc..after you get the bulb out,see if you can spot the leak,glue up the crack,use a hair dryer to clear out the moisture,and put it back together..
    --then,you will know how easy it really is to replace those headlight bulbs-as compared to the old scool ones where you had that big bulb-rusty screws,and they were always going out!..that's why there werre so many "cyclop's"(one eyed monsters) back then!'s not that bad,or you could always just get a new one and put that one in?..just like most things,all it takes is-time and attention!!...good luck! :shades:
  • aabboodaabbood Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    Does anyone know what the warranty is on the 2000 Jeeps? Is it 100K miles? I have 103K and just thew a rod into the engine block. Advice? Been current on all oil changes, I am the second owner--it was a certified pre-owned 7 yrs ago. Just got it back Sat. night--had it less than 24 hrs before THIS. The work that was just done on it included a new radiator, a PCM card, tune up, front and rear diffs, new battery cables, new starter, transfer case serviced, front pinion seal replaced and rear axle shaft seals and the heat shield on the exhaust manifold was re-secured b/c it was rattling. There isn't any fuel in the oil that I can detect--that was the first thought as to what could have caused it. This jeep has been a commuter vehicle for the past 4 years. I need a miracle.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited October 2010
    I have to replace the water pump on my 97 JGC, 4.0L V6. I have removed the belt and the 4 nuts from the bolts that go thru the pulley. BUT, I cannot remove viscous fan drive or the pulley. Tried a 12 in. pry bar and a hammer with 1x2 wood stick. It doesn't budge. It almost seems welded on. Is there any way I can remove these items without damaging them? If you can't remove the pulley, I'm not sure I can get the water pump bolts all the way out? Or is the only way to try to remove the water pump and separate these items on the workbench? Any input appreciated.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Does anyone know where the back-up lamp switch is on a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Thanks.
  • etomorietomori Posts: 11
    Sorry to hear about your situation. Have a 99 JGC Laredo V-8 with nearly 200,000 miles on it. Believe that the 2000 models had a three-year, 36,000 mile basic warranty on the drive train. An option was a 7 year, 100,000 mile extended factory warranty which I used until 98,000. Think that I might have had a "lemon," but the dealer took really good care of me. The only thing that was not replaced was the long block.

    As to warranty coverage, you should look at the warranty papers that came with your purchase of the CPO to see the exact time interval and the allowable mileage left on the policy. Looks like you are on the outer edges or, over the time and mileage limitations.

    Since it appears that you went to the dealer to get extensive repair/maintenance service, perhaps you can get deal on rebuilt or used engine.

    Had a neighbor who threw a rod on a 2000 JGC Limited V-8 at around 80,000 miles. Claimed he had the oil changed at 6,000 mile intervals and it was supposed to have been changed just prior to the incident. Examination of the oil revealed that it it had not been changed for a very long time --- it was heavily sludged. It looked like the oil was never changed. Just in case, have the oil looked at to see whether the oil had actually been changed as claimed! He did not have the extended coverage. He ended up selling it to a mechanic for a pittance of its value if it was running.

    Another cause may be that the service person drained the oil out of your engine and forgot to fill it with oil and started the engine to check for oil/filter leaks. Dry-firing could throw a rod.

    Looks like you have few options for a resolution. In view of the work that you have just put into it, the best option is to put in a used/remanufactured engine and factor the costs out by keeping it for another 100,000 plus miles.
  • Thanks for the info, I am looking for a rebuilt or junker motor now. You were right, 3 yr. 36000. The oil was clean as a whistle, I do check it somewhat regularly and I have lifetime oil changes from the dealer. Could it have 'dry fired' and still been drivable but just damaged? A friend worked on it as a favor--it was only supposed to get a new radiator, it had a fresh filter and oil when I got it back. Currently I am bumming rides to work as I have not yet paid for the original work just done on it.
  • vncntsbrvncntsbr Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    when i turn the ignition key to on the fuse for the heater/ac blows. at first the turn signal stopped working when the heater /ac fuse blew. I replaced the fuse. the turn signal and heater worked for 2 days then the fuse blew. I removed the fuse for the heater/ac and the turn signal would work for a day or 2 then stop then work again. now when I turn the ignition on the ac/ heater fuse blows immediately. the fuse blows when the heater/ac controls are off. I down loaded a fuse box diagram from and it states that fuse # 20 10amp controls ignition run/ heater/ac,/left and right turn signal sense and heated seats. I do not have heated seats. what is ignition run and left and right turn signal sense? could one of these circuits be the one that is blowing the fuse? I disconnected the ac compressor and inside the engine I removed the 15amp fuse and a relay for the ac clutch and a 40 amp fuse for the blower motor the fuse still blows when I turn on the ignition with all heater controls off. what fuse controls the turn signal. I hope you can help me with this problem
  • uncfuzuncfuz Posts: 5
    I checked for a vacuum leak. Found one hose that wasnt holding vacuum. Was leaking out t connectors. Repaired the line and still made no difference. This year jeep doesnt have an egr valve on the 6 cylinder so couldnt replace that. Dis replace the coolant temp sensor still no difference.
  • uncfuzuncfuz Posts: 5
    Changed the relays and did not solve the problem.
  • uncfuzuncfuz Posts: 5
    Finally got the car running. Had plenty of suggestions everything from vacuum leaks relays fuel pumps sensor to the main brain. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I did finally give up cause was not going to keep buying this and that only to find out it wasnt the cause. Even though hate letting someone else fix my cars had it towed away. They claim they replaced the coil, plugs and cleaned gunk out of the throttle body. They confirmed that yes there was spark present but said it was too weak and not able to ignite the fuel. I always thought spark was spark but guess if its not strong enough it wont work. So learned something new. Thanks for all the help.
  • ihatemyjeep1ihatemyjeep1 Posts: 3
    edited October 2010
    Let me first start off by saying that I know absolutely NOTHING about cars. Now to my problem... I parked my Jeep in the driveway after work one day, then I had a day off, then I went to start it up and the darn thing was dead. It wasn't making any noise whatsoever. So I took it to Monroe and they put in a new starter and did an oil change for $288. (I know that seems high, but that's what Jeep said it would cost too. I did it at Monroe because it had to be towed and they were closer...) Anyway, no big surprise, but that didn't work. It was at least making noise after that though, so I figured it helped. Next, I sucked it up and towed it to Jeep. Jeep replaced the CAM Sensor and the CAM Drive for $650. (They quoted me $650 and then tried to charge me $695 when I went to pick it up, then when I complained the parts were magically less money and the computer screwed up. Bastards.) I don't know what those parts are or what they do, but the car at least drives now. The car needs to be inspected this month too, and the service writer at the dealership told me I needed to drive it 100-150 miles before it would pass the inspection (something about failing for readiness??) Anyway, I took it to work two days in a row and on the 2nd day the check engine light came on. The car is loud and it feels like it's driving rough. The only way to describe it is that it sounds like it's sputtering almost and it feels like it's having a heck of a time running -- like it's going to die at any minute. :sick: I don't have anymore money to blow on this car, and Jeep told me to bring it in again, but I'd have to pay another $95 diagnostic fee if they run the codes and it's not related to the Cam Sensor or the Cam Drive. I'm really hesitant to take it in if I'm going to have to pay again because I'm beyond over budget this month.

    **Edit** After a bit of searching on the internet I found how to get to the OBD system. I did what they said (turn it on turn it off 4 times) and the code was P0138. I googled that and it said O2 Sensor. The car hasn't really been driven (except going to work the last 2 days) in over a month -- could it be the gas? Should I try throwing in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (a suggestion from a website) and seeing if that solves the problem? Will the light turn off on its own if that's it or will I have to disconnect the battery? How long would I have to drive it to know if that works?
  • I am attempting to replace the blender door on my 2002 jeep grand Cherokee. What is the easiest way to get to the blender door on the drivers side?
  • I had the same deal. Looked everywhere I could for a solution. Went to Rock Auto and bought new l & r headlight assemblies for $15 each. Even came with bulbs. Just a good tug and out they come. Give them a firm press back in and there good as new. 2 years later still crisp and clear.
  • I just wanted to share an update with everyone. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it to reset the check engine light. Then I put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank (it was half full, I used the STP stuff in the black bottle) and let it run through. So far so good.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    great price for headlight lenses! you got a website?-cause a friend just got a -86 subie gl wagon,and both headlights are about as bad as ive ever seen!
    or,is this"rock auto" a store,or boneyard? any help would be GREATLY appreciated.. :)
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    my gues is your drive to work is less than twenty minutes,and you use cheap gas..
    STOP IT!!
    i've got a -98 gcl,with a 5.2-v8,and i run PREMIUM-MARATHON gas,
    they put the injector cleaner in at the pump
    it starts better in th winter,and don't have injector problems..
    it gets 17 mpg-at best,but gets worse when i "cheap out"and try th cheap stuff
    with gas at 3-headin for 4 per gal,the twenty cents per diffrence ain't worth it..
    -cause u end up spending it on repairs and tuneups..
    -u need to "clean it out"..if u can find it-a tank of "turbo blue-at $6-+ per,and take it out for a LONG-HARD drive-includin some good "kicks in th butt"-ta clean it out,after it's good and hot(operating temp),it's cheaper than a new catylitic converter-o2 sensor,muffler,etc..the stuff that "plugs up" when you baby your car..short trips are worse on a car-in the long run-than anything! it's a jeep! treat it like one!'s like having a race horse,and never letting it run!?!..have fun with it,and it'll probably run better.. :shades:
  • In cold weather My 2003 JGC 2.7 diesel automatic shows the engine warning light and goes into limp mode, this used to clear after a mile or so and would then run all day, It has now gone into this mode all the time and will not come out of limp mode. Any ideas Thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    my -98 GCL,5.2 is starting to show its age.. from the alarm going off-in th middle of th night-for no reason-other than th morning dew,to now-the battery is dead in th mornin??!...after coming out to one-completely drained-battery,i put in a fresh one..
    iand today,well,this will be the third time!-and it ain't even cold yet!
    anyone out there found what drains th battery?-maybe what fuse to pull with all the superfulus electrical stuff on this thing,i could live without th trip comp,but would hate to give up th cruise control..
    --already disabled th under hood light,(them mercury switches and inclined driveways)
    so,any ideas??thanks! :lemon:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited November 2010
    I had this exact problem. Excessive off current drain. You need an ammeter that will measure at least 10A down to 10mA. First, remove bulb mounted in the hood, otherwise it will interfere with measurements. Make sure all doors closed. Connect ammeter to battery with long wires. Meter is connected in series with battery cable so you have to remove cable. Gently close hood making sure wires don't get yanked or pinched. Open a door. You should see 3 or 4 or 5 amps due to interior lights. Close door. When lights go out, current should drop to 200-300 mA. Eventually, it may take minutes, the current should drop much lower like 40 mA when the body control module goes to sleep. If it doesn't, then something is keeping the BCM awake. In my case it was a switch on the liftgate window. Can't remember details, but I remember it was a press fit and came loose. If you can't fix it, try cutting the wire or shorting them. Can't remember if it is normally open or normally closed.. BCM has many inputs so it could be something else. If you don't observe this scenario, something other than the BCM may be the problem. After making a fix, repeat test. You will see when you have it fixied.

  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    sounds like that could be it..,and why the alarm keeps trippin..
    wonder if i could just pull th fuse to th body module? th alarm is more a annoyance than a sorely needed thing where i live,plus,it's not like anyones got th hots for a 12 yr old-12 mpg beast!
  • Hello i have a 2007 grandcherokee and i am having issues with the hinges also i have placed a call into chrysler about the problem mine only has 58, on it and the passenger side metal cracked with rust on the inside of the metal and they did noothing to help and now the drivers side hast started doing the same thing so i called again
  • Hi, i thought the same thing that i had to buy new headlights also. turns out that its only oxidation on the front. go get some sand paper starting at 320 go up to 2000 then buff it with plastic polish. they will look brand new i promise you. My girlfriend has this jeep and ive done it twice. better than buying two new headlights.
    Good luck
  • I can't seem to located the auto light relay. When the headlight switch is in the Auto position I can hear the relay click and the dash lights and running lights turn on but not the headlights. The headlights work just fine in manual mode.
    I know the relay is located behind the the Glove box but not sure which one it is since there is no markings telling me. I figure since the relay activates and the dash lights come on etc.. The problem is the relay. Just need to know which one.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I'm sure sanding them improved them, but just let me say the improvement with new ones was sensational. I bought them on ebay for about $35 each. I also replaced the grill for about $70. If your bumper is not cracked, dented or chipped, it makes the front look almost brand new.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You will need the Jeep shop manual. You might be able to buy one on the web. Another option is look at subscribing to I think you can get a free trial description to get started.
  • I also have buffed quite a few headlights, and with great results. I used wet sanding with 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 grits, drying and inspecting each time. Some of the crusty stuff really takes some patience. I used auto body buffing compound and a professional poilsher. They look perfect!! :blush:
  • Here is a "quick and dirty" method to temporarily get rid of scratched headlight lenses --- wipe them with a shop rag dampened with WD 40. It will last about 2-3 weeks before reapplying.
  • jpavejpave Posts: 1
    The battery is being drawn down. In the fuse panel located inside and down by the feet of the passenger. If I pull fuse #7 (yellow 20 amp) I get a pulsing draw when i have a test light in between the negative post of the battery and the negative cable. Then while that fuse is still out and I pull out Fuse # 20 (Blue 15 amp) the test light goes completely out. According to the owners manual Fuse #7 has a description of "Instrument Cluster, Body Controller, Vehicle Theft Arming Light, Automatic Headlights, Diagnostics Connector, Radio Amplifier" Fuse #20 has a description of "Radio, Automatic Temperature Control, Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module".
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