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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    blower resister
  • joe3djoe3d Posts: 22
    Hello all, I have a random noise, close to a thumping noise I hear towards the back of my2005 JGC. Here are the conditions: It comes and goes while driving. Most times for only a minute or two at a time. I could have my foot on the gas driving straight and it does not affect the way the car drives or stops. I checked underneath by the tires and axle but didn't see anything loose. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Joe D
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.
  • My Jeep is sprouting a radiator leak and needs water every week to week and a half. Can anyone give me some guidance on what I should do? Should I have checked by a mechanic? Do i purchase a new one? Used??? Please advise if you've had this issue...Thx!
  • Check your radiator cap. Change it if you are not sure of the location of the leak.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You need to buy or borrow a pressure tester that screws onto the radiator. Let it cool off. Remove radiator cap. Screw the pressure tester. It has a manual pump and a gauge. Pump up pressure to 15 psi and come back in 1 hour. If pressure is still on 15 cooling system is OK. If it's below 15 get your flashlight and look for leaks. Normally there will be a small puddle somewhere on the floor. Most pressure test kits come with an adapter so you can pressure test the radiator cap. If pressure won't hold but you can't find a leak, the leak is most likely internal to the engine. Probably a head gasket. Where I live you can borrow a pressure tester from Autozone stores. You may have to buy an adapter so it will fit your radiator. Without doing a pressure test you are just guessing at the solution.
  • I had a similar problem and even though it is a bit dangerous I looked at my radiator after a trip and first I squeezed the upper radiator hose and found that instead of it being hard and full of pressure it was easy to squeeze which is a sign that the system lost the pressure some where. I then used a rag and attempted to remove the radiator cap....most caps have a safety position where you can turn the cap to a point but then to completely remove it you have to push down. If fluid trys to gush out when you start to turn the cap then there is pressure. If not then there is a leak and in my case I saw a small amount of liquid around the top edges of the radiator which told me something close to the top was leaking.....I bought a new cap...$12 and all of those things I described changed...the hose was hard and if I attempted to move the cap, hot water wanted to careful and always use a rag as it can burn. The pressure tester describe earlier is the best way if you can get one for free. Many Radiator shops will do the test but beware as they might just want business if you know what I mean.
    I had a shop I trusted check a van I owned and they did not find any leaking around the normal places...hoses etc.. But they did say they saw evidence of a leak around the intake manifold where the head and water gaskets are located. They said you could spend a ton of money and pull the head and replace the gasket or get a good sealer. I bought the best sealer I could find that had a ton of cooper in it and other stuff. It worked like a champ and there is no more leak. The van is a '93 and runs great. Not worth the expense to pull it apart when a simple bottle of stuff works. But for a slow leak on a hose or bad cap the fix is obvious...replace it.
    My two cents worth.
  • I do seem to have lots of pressure when attempting to remove the cap after running and I have noticed my radiator reserve keeps running out of liquid. The leak seems to be running down the passenger side of the radiator half way up the side where the reserve overflow tube is located at the bottom. I have purchased a new radiator cap recently, but it does not fit as snug as I thought it should? Should I try a new one to start???
  • I had the same problem just in the last 6 months my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited was doing the same thing and the ticking noise was actually the auto shutdown relay and the computer needed to be replaced even after it was reset not saying this is 100 percent your issue just going from experience.
  • I just had the computer alternator and battery replaced in my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8 4.2 MFI motor. Now i am hearing a noise that is between a chattering lifter and exhaust leak when i am driving not sitting still it just started on my way home from work any ideas.
  • We just bought this Jeep as a second car. 179k on it. Previous owner just did a full tune up with tri-fire plugs,upgrade wires,cap and rotor. This sounds and runs like new.
    Premium gas is a necessary evil but a small price to pay for spanking teenagers in their "hot rods". 0-100 takes 16 seconds.This thing is wicked fast!
    I just hope all the major repairs I read here about are already done!
    We also have a 94 Grand Laredo with 144K,runs like a champ but much noisier than the 98 LTD.
    VERY pleased with the LTD so far.
  • Did you get your stalling issue solved? I have the same issue.
  • zronzzronz Posts: 4
    I too am experiencing this surging behavior. On Feb 24th, 2011 I bought a 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L. with 66K miles and drove it home (90 miles) the same day from the dealer with no problems. That same evening my brother was riding with my mom in the Jeep (mom driving), and while excelerating on an entrance ramp to get on the hi-way, the Jeep started displaying a violent engine surge (stopping and starting/jerking) about 4 times in a matter of seconds before it stopped. Thought it was bad gas being that it only had 1/8 of tank so I filled it up with 89 octane plus some RXP in the tank.

    The morning of the 26th, my mom was getting ready to take it on a road trip and low and behold, the Jeep started but was disaplying all kinds of warning lights/indicators (dummy lamps). Come to find out after doing a little diagnostic work myself, the battery was dead because the alternator was not charging the battery. I determined the alternator was not charging the battery by staring the Jeep (after a jump start) and then disconnecting the negative battery cable. If the Jeep kept running, the alternator was charging. If the Jeep died, the alternator was not charging. So I ended up replacing the alternator and the battery and performed the same test and this time the Jeep kept running after disconnecting the negative battery cable and all lights indicators were off as I suspected they would be.

    The morning of the 26th, it was taken on a 400 mile road trip from Dallas to Ark with no issues. 2 days later on the 28th while at a cruising speed of about 40mph (cruise control not used for the term cruising), it displayed the very same behavior. It happened so fast, I didn't notice if any dummy lights, i.e. "Check Engine" light came on or not.

    I inquired to some certified Jeep mechanics and from what I have told them (same I just told here in this post), "quote"

    There is just no way for any tech to give a 100% answer without getting more data history etc.. I can only give my thoughts and things to check. Intermittant problems in today’s vehicles can be very hard to find till it acts up more often.
    I am thinking the clue may be the charging system. What many people do not know is the charging system is 100% controlled by the cars computer. The alternator in yours does NOT have an internal regulator like older models. The regulator is in the computer. This means, it is VERY rare for and alternator to fail on your Jeep and more common it is the computer.

    I'm more lead to believe its a charging issue. I think by doing battery and alternator you reset the computer and.. at some point the charging will drop again and when it does, it kind of flips out all the other sensors and computer controls and the truck will do weird things.

    Now.. if the check engine light has or does come on, you go to parts store, get free code scan and they will tell you the trouble code and what it means. In the meantime, I would travel with volt meter and if acts up again, quickly check what charging is. It MUST be between 13.5-14.8 volts. No higher, no lower.
    Yes.. it is very possible you have failing computer (PCm) We have replaced many for very similar issues.
  • zronzzronz Posts: 4
    The morning of the 26th, it was taken on a 400 mile road trip from Dallas to Ark with no issues was supposed to say "The morning of the 27th, not the 26th..... Sorry about that typo....
  • howie56howie56 Posts: 21
    I also have a 2005 JGC with a 5.7 HEMI and I bought this vehicle when it was brand new off the showroom floor and for the first 3000 miles I had no problems but shortly after hitting 3000 miles my jeep started surging and I have brought it into the garage many time and it has been verified by the shop personal and even the engineers looked at it but they said that it was a "NORMAL" occurence ( B S ) and I also get some sudden surging when taking off from a intersection but as of yet , nothing has been or probably won't be done about it . :mad: :lemon:
  • I own an 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4. I also had what seems to be an identical problem a few years back. Sudden and random jerking and accelerating. It was under a full warranty and the dealer resolved the issue. The say...they replaced crank position sensor & did a "flash" update power control module. The invoice says part 56028815-AA. I hope this is of some help.
  • zronzzronz Posts: 4
    Thanks metzler80. That's insight I didn't have before. I'll make note of what you said. We haven't taken it to the dealer just yet. Still gathering information and my Jeep is under full warranty to at this time. Were there any trouble codes that helped identify your specific problem indicating the need to replace the crank position sensor and to flash the PCM?
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, the engine block was destroyed by an exploding piston...:(
    I bought an engine from a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I put my old flywheel and cam position sensor on this motor. I have it running but can't get the timing right...Any thoughts?
  • taz060171taz060171 Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD 5.2l. Lately, I have noticed the RPM surges when it is up to speed on the highway. However, it shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc. and all the gears work, even reverse, and does not seem to be slipping or dragging. It will also drop to 0 even though it is running at approx 2k. Any ideas?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    In my 97 Jeep shop manual I see only 1 potential match: MOVES in 2nd or 3rd abruptly downshifts to low: 1. Valve body malfunction 2. Governor valve sticking
  • walegzywalegzy Posts: 1
    I bought a used 94 GCJ recently 27K milage, but don't know much about the previous history. The engine sounds great and drives well on low speed. But the problem is that it cuts off after long period of driving (say about an hour drive) and keeps doing that until it cools off. When it decelerates and cuts off, it does not take long to start anyway (say 1-2 minutes). I have read post here about this problem in my little research but can't get the right answer to the problem:

    "by ponygirl1 Sep 15, 2006 (6:22 pm)

    Replying to: vicgonzales (Sep 08, 2006 9:37 am)

    I have posted a comment a long time ago about my jeep having issues with cutting out while driving or just not wanting to start. ... The jeep only does it when gets too hot outside and driving for an extended period of time. ...

    Since my Jeep has this similar problem. I hope somebody can assist in proferring the right solution.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee and it had the same problem. Two years after I bought the car (new) they breplaced the steering column under warranty. Never had the problem occur again and I still have the car. Very happy with this car.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee with 4.7 liter V8. Love the car, no issues with performance, however, noticed the owners manual calls for a spark plug replacement at 30K miles. At 38K, decided to replace plugs myself. The OEM plugs are NOT platinum. Went to Advanced and bought Champion Platinum for less than $3 each. Now the car mileage improved and I don't need to do this replacement ever again. Why would Chrysler not use platinum plugs in this engine? Stupid cost saving move I guess. Car runs great,
  • zronzzronz Posts: 4
    Update on my specific issue with my 05 JGC 5.7. I've waited a month to post because I wanted to see if the issue was actually resolved or not and it appears to be solved. With all the bucking and jerking that it was doing, and all of the possible root causes it could have been (such as the ECM, etc), it turned out that the crank shaft sensor was going bad according to the diagnostics report from the dealership. They replaced it under warranty and it seems to have done the trick. I am super happy with the purchase of this Jeep! Well worth the $$$ I paid.
  • Just purchased a 2011 JGC Overland. I absolutely love the vehicle, well worth the $. However, I have never owned a Jeep before. Previously we had an Acura TL and a Honda Pilot - never an issue with either until we sold at around 100k miles. I just read today that the Jeep and Chrysler brand ranked near the bottom in latest quality reports. (how is that possible if they share MB platforms?!)

    Anyway, I passed on buying the extended warranty from the dealer, but now wondering if I should invest in one. We usually put about 100k miles on our cars. I would be concerned with any engine/tranny issues, and also concerned about all the electronics/nav/radio stuff.

    Thoughts on whether a warranty is worth it? If so, where do I buy a reputable warranty? Thanks.
  • I definitely would invest in an extended warranty. As much as I love my 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited, it really has an awful lot of problems. I have read this about all of the Cherokees. It has been one problem after another. There are alot of problems with the GC's from faulty blend doors, to the power windows not working. I hope your GC is better than mine. Good luck!!
  • Hi,

    Since December 2010, my check engine light has come on five times. I've included below what was done each time at the mechanic.

    73,797 - P0456 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (very small leak) - 11/26/10 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened and tested cap and reset the OBD.

    74,102 - P0442 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (medium leak) - 12/7/10 - Gas cap tested bad, mechanic replaced the gas cap and reset the OBD.

    77,718 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 5/31/11 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened cap and reset the OBD.

    77,865 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/10/11 - Mechanic replaced the evaporative vent solenoid (solenoid was clicking loudly on the 11/26/10 date) and the crankcase vent hose (hose was cracked); reset the OBD.

    78,161 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/21/11 - Mechanic suggested going to the dealer because they have an advanced computer system.

    My questions:

    I've researched this on Google and it appears that many have had this issue on different Chrysler vehicles, many with no resolution. My mechanic said he could do a smoke test (pump smoke through the evaporative system) to see if that shows anything, but he said that this can be expensive to track down the problem. The dealer wants $95 just to run diagnostics (which would apply to my estimate to get it fixed, assuming they figure out the problem).

    Have you heard of this? If so, what have people tried?
    Any other suggestions?

    The mechanic said I could drive with the light on, but this makes me uneasy, especially if I go out of town. I have noticed a decline in gas mileage. Other than that, it may run slightly rough here and there, but overall doesn't seem phased by this issue. I haven't spent a ridiculous amount of money so far, but I'm trying to keep the costs down on this.

  • It is a 2002 Jeep GC with almost 79,000 miles. It is the 4.0 I-6 and is two wheel drive.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,491
    I have a 99 Laredo 4x4 V8. Mine is doing the same thing. I have 131k and have maintained this vehicle very well. Once the check engine light is on it stops wanting to stall. It actually does NOT stall. It ALMOST stalls, but then doesn't once I am stopped completely.

    This tells me it is a sensor. I have noted that A LOT of people on this forum have had this same problem, but I do not have time to research all the answers. Would someone tell me what to check FIRST! Then I can go from there. Thanks and have a happy 4th weekend.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,491
    edited July 2011
    My truck wants to stall every time I come to a complete stop. It actually WANTS to stall, but stays running at the last second. I have been putting it in neutral when I stop to avoid lurching and shaking.
    I know others are having the same or similar problems. My truck has 131,000 miles, but has been very well maintained. I am hoping this is a sensor problem, like oxygen or mass airflow sensor.
    *****UPDATE***** The 99 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 liter engine does NOT HAVE A MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR!!!!
    The check engine light is coming on, and after it is on the truck stops stalling except for 1 out of 10 stops. If the computer senses that there is a problem, and the light comes on, does it run in a limp mode until it can be repaired? What do I check first?
    My BCM and ECM were replaced 3 years ago.
    I had plugs put in at the dealer 3 years ago.
    Fuel injection system flushed 2 years ago.
    new transmission solenoid pack 3 years ago.
    Transfer case cover replaced, and new seal installed.
    New diff seals 3 years ago
    right front (passenger) hub bearing replaced
    New shocks 2 months ago
    New brakes 2 months ago
    New front axle half- shafts- 3 mos ago
    New C.V. boots 3 mos ago.
    Truck runs perfect other than this.


    1) Front left drivers side hub bearing needs to be replaced. It is grinding when I saw at the wheel above 30mph.

    2) Coolant overflow bucket hose is leaking.

    3) Drivers side heated seat button on dash is broken.

    Thanks guys. I just paid it off in April!!!!! It couldn't make it 2 mos without breaking down??????

    What a piece of cat-litter clump!!!! It has been a real struggle to keep it in good repair. I honestly love my truck.

    Help! Dealer wants $300.00 just to diagnose it. That is highway robbery!!!


    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

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