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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)



  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    have you tried an emissions system cleaning/fuel system cleaner? Fuel pump will also cause problems when it is about to go and will not throw a svc eng light....
  • I had the engine stall problem on my 2004 Santa Fe GLS a couple years ago. It was the EVAP system going bad. I had a mechanic replace the Canister Closed Valve Solenoid and the EVAP Charcoal Canister and Filter. He said that the Hyundai EVAP System is of a very poor design and this problem comes up often. I have never replaced my O2 sensors yet.
  • Actually I was going to try a fuel system cleaner. Every now and then we add a bottle of the Lucas Oil Injector Cleaner. But the guys at Advance Auto recommend trying something called Sea Foam. They say it gives a more complete cleaning of the system in removing carbon buildup. It is supposed to be comparable to the injector cleaning service dealerships offer, only a LOT cheaper. I thought about the fuel pump. But that should give a more consistent problem. And it would not explain why the car always dies when filled with BP gas. This is what leads to believe that it is related to a sensor reading somewhere.
  • I will check into the Charcoal Canister. I know my dad had to replace that on his XG350L a few years ago. But the dealership said that his failed from him topping the gas off too much. And he is surely guilty of that. He will squeeze every last drop into a car when he fills up. Hopefully it isn't an expensive part/fix.
  • I have a 2006 2.7 Lt and the AC Compressor Clutch and pulley is going out. Can i replace just the clutch or do i have to replace the whole Ac compressor? or can i bypass the whole AC clutch and get a smaller belt?
  • My rear door "Stabilus Lift-O-Matic" has lost its holding ability to keep the rear door from staying in the up position. Does anyone know where I can get a pair of these and are they hard to install? Any advice on how to install this item would be helpful. It has a part number printed on it as follows "81771-26011"
  • if you do clean the injectors make sure to use the stuff from wynn,s as they will pay later down the road if you have any fuel related problems. It will also increase your fuel economy and have a better response out of the motor. So in the long run you will save more than you spend just in the cleaning of the injectors
  • I am having this same issue. I was wondering if you ever found out what the issue was?
  • As you can tell from the title, I have a 2004 2.7L V6 Santa Fe with around 124,000miles. I recently had it at the dealership for a tuneup and because the check engine light came on. The code was P0303, meaning its misfiring in the 3rd cylinder. I had the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs replaced. Originally, the compression in the 3rd cylinder was not good but after having all this work done and having the gasket checked, compression came back good. The issue is I am still having misfires in that cylinder but not steady misfires. I started and drove the car for about 30mins with no problems while sitting in stop and go traffic but then it started misfiring again. The mechanic at the dealership said it could be the timing belt, which I had replaced at 98,000miles because the crankshaft pulley is wobbly but that he would have to open it up to see. I have seen some posts in the past about this same issue and was wondering if anyone had this problem more recently and what the cause was? If it is the timing, why would only 1 cylinder be having the issue?

    Thank you
  • susan1969susan1969 Posts: 1
    Since Dec 2012 my Santa Fe 2004 3.5 has been in the shop about 5 times tune up was done purge valve replaced plugs wires and coils replaced and catalytic converters bank 1&2 and some $600.00 pipe that apparently goes to the exhaust as well every time I get it back I drive it not even 500 miles and then the car starts not wanting to accelerate and hesitates and jerking like turbulence in a airplane (a new transmission was put in 2008) When all this started I thought it was my transmission which they checked and said that was not it. Its back in the shop now they think it may be my timing belt I have put over 3000.00 since this all began and I just really need some ideas as to what causes these misfires just want the problem fixed I cant afford another car and someone else's problems just want to fix the one I have I don't know how much longer I can afford this Please help someone
  • cpmaircpmair Posts: 1
    I have a 2002, 4 burner Hyundai Santa Fe. I was driving my Santa Fe for about 50 miles when all of a sudden it started acting weird. The RPM's went between 3,500-1,000, it felt like I was hitting turbulence, and then it died. My first thought was the fuel filter, so I replaced that. It ran for about 10 miles, and started acting up again. My next thought was the fuel pump, so I replaced that, and that didn't solve the problem. When I turn the key to on, I notice that the pump turns on, but I unhooked the cables to see if it was actually pumping fuel, and it wasn't. I then turned the key over, without pushing the clutch in to see what happened. It started pumping fuel at that point. I have found that if I turn the key over before trying and actually turning the car on, when I do go to start it, it will start and run for about two minutes, before it starts to act up. I cannot get it to stay on long enough to drive it even mile. It has about 130,000 miles on it. I hooked up a diagnostic reader, and it threw four codes.
    1. Camshaft positioning sensor
    2. Crankshaft positioning sensor
    3. MAF or VAF low input
    4. MAF or VAF low input
    I need help with this problem, and my dad mentioned that I put the problems up on a forum. If you have any idea what it might be, I am open to all suggestions.
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    check for leaks along the intake tube - if you can't hear or see any - spray around it with intake cleaner/throttle cleaner/starter fluid while it is running - the engine should respond to the into of the cleaner and change rpm - that is where the leak is if there is any - I am assuming the filter/maf sensor/throttle is clean...
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    does this only happen with the a/c on?
  • I have charged the A/C, but it continues to blow cool air, not cold. Could this be the "evaporator?"
  • Did you ever receive a reply on this? I've got the same problem.
  • Well, you can add my name to the long list of frustated Santa Fe 2007 owners because of faulty fuel sensors. Just like some other lucky winners both fuel sensors failed at 75,000 miles. About $600 if I go back to the dealer or $220 if I want to give it a shot. So instead I will use my OBD scanner once in awhile to check for new codes and make sure I fill up the tank every 250 miles or so. By the way my rear brakes froze and I had to replace everything (rotors, pads, drums). Another common issue on the Santa Fe 2007. Other than that it is a good car :-)
  • @pro212 said:
    Anyone know the answers? Hung??
    1. So far, only Hung reports a third valet key. I only go two keys and two remotes also on my LX. Anyone but Hung get a valet key (that doesn't open the glove box?
    2. Under my driver's seat, (I'm in the rear seat looking under), I see a long two-three strand wire with a rectangular connection clip. It seems to be some type of connection or accessories connection wire that must have come lose, or maybe for some accessory I don't have??. I can't find where to connect the end clip, and everything else seems to work fine. The right side passenger seat doesn't have this particular wire and clip. I have an LX with ABS/traction control/heated seats/electrodim mirror.
    3. When I shift into park and turn off my Santa Fe ignition key, about 35% of the time it will only turn to the accessories position but won't let me turn to the "off" position and get the key out. Then I have to shift to gear (car not on) and then back to park and it will allow me to turn to the off position and get the key out. It doesn't seem to be a problem if I shut the car off in neutral and then take the key out and shift to "Park" which doesn't seem to be the correct, natural thing to do. Any thoughts on this?

    Sounds to me like the shift interlock solenoid is out of adjustment. This solenoid is connected to brake pedal, transmission shifter, and ignition switch. It shouldn't take the dealer or qualified shop more than half hour to fix.

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