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Nissan Altima



  • statecatstatecat Posts: 10
    We are looking at the '06 Altima's.

    My question to current 4cylinder Altima Owners: What kind of fuel mileage are you getting compared to the ratings?

    Thank you for your help.
  • raychuang00raychuang00 Posts: 541
    Ghosn states that all 07 Nissan sedans will have CVT engines...except the Quest.

    WOW! :surprise: It will be very interesting to see if American car buyers will take to the "slipping clutch feel" of CVT automatics on the Nissan automobiles. One thing we should watch is that don't be surprised that within a year the Quest also switches to CVT, probably using a beefed-up version of the Murano's CVT unit.
  • altnotaltnot Posts: 1
    There was a recall on the Nissan Altima, about stalling engines you may want to check the recall, something that deals with the fuel chip.
  • I came to the same conclusion as you. I just purchased a 2.5S with the SL package.

    FWIW, I contacted Nissan USA on the aftermarket addition of leather to a cloth interior. They fully endorse it and I was told it does not effect the existing warranty.
  • My nissan altima is only 60,000 miles and the engine is brake down. It costs me about $2,000. When I took the car from the dealer and on the way home, I found my signal light is broken, and went back to the dealer, they said they did not touch the signal light. After I insisted they did something to my car, they checked it out and found the signal light was loosen and disconnected.
    Even worse, I brought my car for maintence service. they charged me $580 for a lot of unnecessay service, I was trying to talk to the manager about the complaint. The guy who is the manager charged my credit card told me that there is no manager available now. After I paid $580, he gave me the key and said the car is outside. I went out and could not find my car, came back asked if somebody can show me where is my car. the manager screaming at me said I have to find it by myself. I was upset about it because my baby is waiting outside crying and they even can not show my there is the car. I tried to get his name. He gave me his bussinese card and he is the general manager. I was shock. After he gave me the card, not only did not show me the car but told me to get out of there and almost hit me. I have never seen anything like this before. I would never buy a Nissan car and go to Nissan service.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Why ever would you leave an unattended baby outside?
  • I just got a 2006 altima special edition a little over a week ago. So far I love it. I was just wondering what you thought of yours and what kind of gas mileage you get.
  • 33853385 Posts: 1
    HELP...i drained the oil out of my 2003 altima, when i went to pop the hood open, the cable broke! Anyone know of a way i can get it opened?
  • mf15mf15 Posts: 158
    I do not see the 07 Altima thread after the change of the forums format. Thanks Old Mike
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Here 'tis: 2007 Nissan Altima. You can also get to it by going to the main Altima group link.

  • Hi,
    Are 93 thru 97 Altima transmissions all the same for engines 2.4L? Im looking to replace my transmission for my 97 Altima with an used transmission. I dont really want to spend the money to rebuild the trainy thats on there now because the car isnt really worth that much. I can get an used trainy for cheap and a good mechanic to put it on for cheap. I just need to know if any year would do (93 - 97). Any reply would be greatly apreciated.

    Thanks, :D
  • I recently looked at a 2007 Altima at a car show and liked the fact that the top of the center console would move forward so that you could rest your right arm on it while driving. Is that exclusive to the 2007 or do previous years' Altimas do the same?
  • Hi,

    I had gone ahead and bought an Used Nissan Altima 2003 model with around 59720 miles in it at Royal Moore Nissan in Hillsboro, Oregon for around 11,920 Dollars. I was around 10 Days into Car searching after getting my licnese (I am new to US), and was desperate for a Car due to the rainy weather around here.

    Since I bought the Car, I have been going thru this "phase " of doubting my purchase whether I paid too much for the car or whether the dealer gave me a good deal or did he take advantage of my need for a car or whether I could have had it for lot less. The Car looked and drives really good it had very very minor blemish on the Bumper other than that the car felt kind of new (inspite of the milage) and I had a satisfactory and a happy feeling when I purchased it. Now with a desperate need of a car being satisfied, I am now thinking in terms of whether I paid more for the car..I have seen the NADA,KBB and Edmunds value of the car, but still wonder whether I got a decent enough deal or ripped off ? I would really appreciate if anybody with insights into this can tell me whether the money I paid was okay or the dealer ripped me off ?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    What difference does it make - you either got a fair deal or you were ripped off. Since none of us were with you during negotiations nor do any of us know the condition of the car or how much you agreed to pay, how could we realistically be expected to advise you over the internet? Regardless, it's your car now, so drive it sensibly, check fluid levels and service it regularly, and enjoy going about your business in warm, dry comfort. (There isn't a person on these shores - recent arrival or native born - who hasn't gotten screwed and tattoo'd on a car deal at one time or another - some are occasionally smart enough to know they got the short end of the stick.) If you believe you got taken (and, by the way, maybe you really didn't ;)), just lick your wounds, and live and learn in time for the next go around. (And next time pick up Consumer Report's annual new car issue - they always resurrect and update their car buying tips article for what car salesperson trickery to watch out for.)
  • kwk1kwk1 Posts: 39
    Does anyone know how to make this function silently, without the horn beeping?

    It's an '06 model.

  • puripuri Posts: 16
    Hi - i leased a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5SL and the lease is ending in March.
    Apparently the 2 yr servicing date is sometime early March and i might extend this lease for next 6 months.
    THe problem is that the 2 yr servicing is approx $400-500 if i were to get it at the Nissan Dealer.
    The ques - do i need to get it done from the dealer and if so can i tell them to only do the bare essentials so that i am not so much out of pocket (if so would i get dinged when i return the lease)?

    If i were to return the car and get a new one - does any one have experience wherein they have negotiatied that all services esp the exp ones be tucked into the monthly (pretty much like the BMW where all service is included)

    please let me knowASAP

  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    From my leasing experience, as long as the car is in very good condition, the dealer or leasing company doesn't ask or care if the maintenance is not 100% up to date, even though it is in your lease agreement. This is especially true if you are going to lease another car from the same dealer. All they want is the new car business, and they can service the car themselves for much cheaper than you would pay if they want to put it on their used car lot, or it gets auctioned off by the leasing company.
    You could get it serviced by a third party and keep the receipts, which may be cheaper.
    One thing the leasing companies WILL ding you for is worn tires. If your tires are down, you may be able to get a set of almost new low mileage "used" OEM tires that have been traded in for something better. Call a number of tire dealers. There is a large "silent" market for used tires!
    Extending a lease for 6 months doesn't make sense. You still owe the same contractual residual amount, and the car is worth less after 6 additional months. The 6 monthly payments are just thrown away. Also, you are out of warranty and if anything breaks you will have to pay for the repairs to a car you are giving up anyway. May as well put the money into your new car.
    The dealer will gladly sell you a service contract when you buy your new car. They make a nice profit on it, and you pay more for it than you would if you paid as you went! Not a good idea in my book.
  • puripuri Posts: 16
    that helps me a lot. thanks
    my car is in good condition - but am also in the process of buying a condo and hence was hoping to make the car a bit later on - i hear you on the extension for 6 months/year.

    So basically what are a must have service done to a car after 2 yrs (i dont knw a lot abt cars) except oil change etc.

  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    Keep that oil changed! No matter what, make sure its gets the "oil, lube and filter".
    As you are buying a condo, it may make sense for you to put off the new car lease, however there are also advantages doing the transactions in the same month. As long as your credit is good:
    1) Close on the condo first.
    2) Do a no money down lease if you are short on cash.
    Credit inquiries hit your credit report and lower your credit rating. Your mortgage company and others will make credit inquiries which will be on your record, so you creditworthiness in 6 months time will be lower than it is now and you may pay a higher interest or money factor as a result. If you lease the new car within a month of closing the condo, the inquiries and condo purchase will not have hit your credit report yet so you will get a better leasing rate.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    Just one word of caution, a major service can wait a bit unless there are critical components that need replacing like timing belts. Not sure if your car has a chain or belt. These components are mileage dependent not time dependent, so it depends on how many miles you have on the car.
    Neglecting these can cost major $$$$$$$$$$$$ if something fails.
  • puripuri Posts: 16
    awesome advice on taking on the car in the same month!! helps a lot!!!

    have 25k miles - what do u suggest!
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    At 25K do an oil change - nothing major is going to break from wear between now and the end of March. Make sure your car is clean before you turn it in. If it is dirty inside, get it detailed and get door dings removed by a paintless dent removal process like Dent Wizard. They are not expensive and it will save you a bunch of $$$ not getting charged for "excessive wear and tear" by the leasing company. Close on the condo and if you still have the nerves to sign on the dotted line again, get a no money down lease within the month.
    New condo, new car. Cool! :)
  • puripuri Posts: 16
    ALan - u r the best ! thanks much!

    am super glad i came here...
    while i am at this - any inputs on the Nissan Murano

    FYI - did i mention that in addition to the car and condo also expecting!!! yes a big big year for [email protected]!!
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    New model Murano is due in a few months so you should be able to negotiate a great deal on the existing one. Congratulations on your future new addition. Now your expenses will REALLY start!
  • OK GOT THE car FOR FREE put new timing chain in it, found out that wasnt the problem it was a guide 3 bolts would have taken care of it ?anyways the car had 95000 on it now 115000 runs good pleanty of power but getting less than 200 miles to 13 gallon of gas also on ideal the engine runs rough when the fan kicks onthen fine when it goes off can anyone give me some input on the vibration and the gas milage thanks
  • dconnordconnor Posts: 20
    Does the downsizing of the new Altima bother anyone else? I bought a 2005 Altima with the express intention of giving it to my son on his 17 th birthday. It was to be a reward if he proved to be a good driver with his old starter car and continued to do well in school. I got the color and features he wanted, drove it for 11 mos., and gave it to him to have for his senior year and to take to college. Well, I found out I really liked it. We are both tall. I am 6' 3" with long legs and he is 6' 4 1/2". It offered great driver leg room and position, noticeably better for us than other options in its size class. I decided I would get another for me, but since there was to be a new model with CVT in 2007, I waited. I thought it was my chance to get a good driving, nice looking car with perhaps even better mileage and room to accommadate my long legs and still have a usable back set for adults. However, the new model has over 1.5" of less front seat leg room, has lost over 3.5 " of combined front and back seat leg room, and if you look at rear seat head room, shoulder room, and leg room has one of the least roomy back seats in its class. I don't think a single member of my immediate family could sit comfortably in the back seat, unlike the previous model which could comfortably accomodate 4 good-sized adults. It looks good, but the downsize regretably nixed my purchase. I don't know what my options are now to get a good driving car with enough room yet good mileage ( in the high 20's). Oh well.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    if you want to stick with nissan, then a max would be you best bet. If thats more than you want to spend, then go check out the new accords.
  • dconnordconnor Posts: 20
    Thanks for the suggestion. I not a big fan of the Maxima. I don't think it offers enough exrtra to justify the price, and of course the mileage is less with the 6 cyclinder rather than 4. I thought about the new accord, but it doesn't have any more driver legroom than the new Altima, and to me Hondas, although reliable cars, ride a bit firm and have too much tire road noise for my taste. I am also not a big fan of the timing belt/interference engine combination. It may be theoretical to most, but it you have ever had a car with a interference engine pop a timing belt and blow an engine, it is something that you think about.
  • Within range of the car, hold the lock and unlock on your remote at the same time for about 10-30 seconds. If you decide you want the "beep" back just repeat this process.
  • colbcolb Posts: 1
    I need to replace the instrument cluster in my 2005 altima. When I purchase a new/used one will it effect the milage on the odometer or will the new one read the same milage?????
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 13,735
    I was looking up the 0-60 time for the 2003 Altima and I found contradictory info here on Edmunds. For the 3.5L I see figures of 6.3 seconds and 7.3 seconds. That's quite a range.

    I can't see two testers getting that different 0-60 times. If one is a typo, which one? :confuse:

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2004 Chevy Van, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    are you sure they had the same transmissions? could be the 6.3 was on a stick, and the 7.3 on an AT.
  • Just wondering what to run in my '07 2.5. The manual talks about 5w-30 but I'm in Florida so I think most people down here use 10w-30. What are you all running?
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Posts: 146
    I'd stick with the MFG's recommendation. 5W30 will still protect just as well in hot weather and while you don't needs the low temerature preformance, even on 40 or 50 degree morning, the engine still benefits.

    10W30 is mainly for older cars designed for it or those with worn out piston rings. Those older cars will burn less oil at start-up with 10W30.

    Many new cars even use 5W20...mainly Hondas' Mazdas and Fords. The engines are optimized for the lower viscoscity oil. I've even heard there they have problems using 10W30 because the variable valve timing requires a certain oil performance.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    The best option would be to use 5W-30 synthetic oil. Thinner oils are used today due to closer machining tolerances in engines as well as to reduce the drag on moving parts, thereby increasing MPG. For the price difference, and especially if you plan to keep the car for 100k+ miles, synthetic is the best choice, and will often increas mpg by 1-2.
  • pfs1pfs1 Posts: 1
    Today I found and drove (and ALMOST bought) an '05 3.5 SE with 25K miles. The car is in great shape but there are a couple of things that are bothering me about it.
    I had an '03 Maxima in the past and I think the front fenders had the vin on stickers on them. I've seen these on other Altimas too. This '05 doesn't have the stickers. There is also just a slight bit of overspray on the hood prop-rod. The car checks out clean for crashes on Auto-Check.
    The other things are that the tires - Bridgestone Turanza, which are stock to my knowledge, are showing a lot of wear, less than half of thread left, I'd say, and cracking. They seem too far gone for just 25,000 miles.
    The last thing will probably sound kind of weird, but the steering wheel is very worn and has that dirty look around the rim. Again, it seems excessive considering the low miles and how clean the rest of the car is.
    Too many red flags? Or too much paranoia on my part?
    Thanks for any opinions in advance!
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Take it to a shop you trust and have them check the fluids (transmission, etc.) and get a reading on them. Also, have him check out the brakes and rotors for excessive wear.

    You can check the manufacture date for the tires and see if they were possibly not original. If you don't know how to read tire dates, look it up on Google or take it to a tire shop. Poor alignment can eat up the best tires in a hurry!

    Maybe the owner has unusually dirty hands...Good luck!
  • karsickkarsick Posts: 312

    I was in the market 7yrs ago for used Millenias, and was driving my pristine '90 GTI (with 250,000 miles :surprise: ) around to shop for these Mazdas.

    I recall having looked at one 3yr old Millenia then that sounded much like you described this Altima.

    I asked myself.......what kind of lazy slob would let such details get like this????

    Right then & there I decided to always avoid ANY car that had signs of aftermarket radios, aftermarket wheels, dark-tinted windows & touched-up resprays. These are the types of cars owned by folks who drive like idiots (drag racing every commuter, weaving through traffic, tailgating, slamming on the brakes, stereo pumping loud crappy music)

    I want a used car that is driven like I drive my own car (where brake jobs last 100k miles, clutches & trannies never need replacement), and taking good care of the interior & paint usually goes hand-in-hand with good care for the mechanical components.

    Find another car that FEELS right, and is sold by a private party. You will be happier :)
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 362
    My '06 3.5SL has done almost 25K miles and shows no signs of wear anywhere. The tires are good and the interior is perfect. It is a great car and runs like a rocket.

    The car you saw likely has far more miles than the indicated mileage and if the VIN stickers are not on the fenders and you see overspray, the car has been in a serious front end wreck.

    Forget this one - there are too many well cared for examples out there and the last thing you need is a FWD car thats had a major front end repair.
  • I just bought my 2006 Altima 3.5SE manual last week. drove it 40 miles and engine light came on. can i take it back, whats best course of action?
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    from your owners manual:

    Malfunction indicator light
    If this indicator light comes on steady or blinks
    while the engine is running, it may indicate a
    potential emission control malfunction.
    The malfunction indicator light may also come on
    steady if the fuel-filler cap is loose or missing, or if
    the vehicle runs out of fuel. Check to make sure
    the fuel-filler cap is installed and closed tightly,
    and that the vehicle has at least 3 gallons (11.4
    liters) of fuel in the fuel tank.
    After a few driving trips, the light should
    turn off if no other potential emission control
    system malfunction exists.
    If this indicator light comes on steady for 20
    seconds and then blinks for 10 seconds when
    the engine is not running, it indicates that the
    vehicle is not ready for an emission control system
    inspection/maintenance test. See “Readiness
    for inspection/maintenance (I/M) test” in the
    “Technical and consumer information” section of
    this manual.
    The malfunction indicator light will come on in
    one of two ways:
    c Malfunction indicator light on steady — An
    emission control system malfunction has
    been detected. Check the fuel-filler cap. If
    the fuel-filler cap is loose or missing, tighten
    or install the cap and continue to drive the
    vehicle. The light should turn off after
    a few driving trips. If the light does not
    turn off after a few driving trips, have the
    vehicle inspected by a NISSAN dealer. You
    do not need to have your vehicle towed to
    the dealer.
    c Malfunction indicator light blinking—An engine
    misfire has been detected which may
    damage the emission control system. To reduce
    or avoid emission control system damage:
    – do not drive at speeds above 45 MPH
    (72 km/h).
    – avoid hard acceleration or deceleration.
    – avoid steep uphill grades.
    – if possible, reduce the amount of cargo
    being hauled or towed.
    The malfunction indicator light may stop blinking
    and come on steady. Have the vehicle inspected
    by a NISSAN dealer. You do not need to have
    your vehicle towed to the dealer.
    Continued vehicle operation without having
    the emission control system checked
    and repaired as necessary could lead to
    poor driveability, reduced fuel economy,
    and possible damage to the emission control
  • garnettagarnetta Posts: 1
    Hottest City in Alabama and AC problems don't mix!! Within the last week my 06 Altima air conditioner system has been working when it wants to. Sometime I have to re-start my car 6-8 times before it will actually start. There are times that I have to ride 10-20 minutes before it clicks on if it clicks on. If anyone has had this problem or know a solution, please help, help, help it's HOT!!!
  • Filled my altima up with gas today. It was on 1/4 tank and it took 12 gallons. This car has a 20 gallon tank. Is it possible that there would be 8 gallons from 1/4 tank to empty???? Also, When I filled up the trip computer said I could only go another 83 miles.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    If it's an 06 it should still be under warranty, let the dealership deal with it.
  • If it's an 06 it should still be under warranty, let the dealership deal with it.

    Well, if s/he bought this car before Dec. 2005, the car is already over 3 years old.
  • Hi, I'm in Tampa, Florida and have a 2007 Altima with 21,090 miles. It is garage kept and driven 4 to 5 times a week.

    So far, the car has been great except for a few issues with the intelli key and the rear brakes getting recalled :surprise: . Two days ago, when I went to drive the car, it would not start. Every time I pressed the start button, the car would make a very loud and constant clicking noise until I would press the start button to turn the car off. At first I thought it was the battery, but when I put it on acc mode, the lights, radio, and instrument cluster turned on just fine. So, I thought it could not be the battery- must be the starter????

    I called the dealer and they recommended getting it jumped. They thought maybe it had a weak/defective battery. Nissan roadside assistance jumped the car for $63.44 and the car turned on. I drove it to Ferman Nissan and left it overnight. They ran some diagnostic test and it came out fine- the battery was fine, so was the starter and alternator. The service guy told me it was probably just a fluke and to bring it in if it happens again.

    I did not leave any lights on or anything like that. It is garage kept, so I don't think the recent cold weather (40s) could have zapped the battery.

    I had a geo prizm in the late 90s with electrical issues that started at 20K miles, so I am wondering if the same thing will happen with the altima....

    Has anyone else had an issue like this? Just hoping it is not a :lemon:
  • If you read back through the history of the posts, it sounds like electrical/start system problems are common on the current Altima. My 03 Mazda 6 has worn out 2 batteries while I've owned it and the second battery was still under warranty. I'd rather have an electrical issue that makes sense like "battery dead" than a dealer telling me there isn't a problem when the rest of the world says there is.
  • when Im driving the car in the freeway, it runs great! When you are getting out of the freeway and slowing down the car dies! If I put the care in nueltral, it doesn't die when I am in a stop. I have to put the car in drive really, really fast and hit the gas, so that the car wont die. Also, there is something wrong with the electral part of the car.
  • I am looking at leasing an Altima SL 4 cylinder. I am trying to weight the benefits of a 39 month lease vs. a 36 month lease. The 39 month lease I feel I will need to purchase extended coverage to help me sleep at we all know...everything will fall apart the day after the warranty expires and I dont want to be on the hook for this repair just before returning the car. Does anyone know if a 3 month extension is offered? If so, what is a good price to expect...I assume this would be bumper to extension of what you get with the standard 36 month lease.
  • I test drove a 2011 altima the other day right off the truck, sales person had to plug in main fuse, first, in driving it some stuff didnt work blower door locks and i dont know what else, the next day i was told that car had to be calbrated and it was not done, my question is did i screw up anythin in trying things before it was calbrated and i so does recalbraying tings straighten things out. thanks john
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