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Toyota Sequoia Accessories and Modifications



  • czechm8czechm8 Posts: 23
    It is possible to replace the factory amp, but extremely difficult. The amp looks normal except for the molex wiring harnesses, but it is far from "normal.". Its all a very proprietary system and it is near impossible to upgrade any one component. You are better off replacing the whole system like I am in the process of doing. Here's why: Toyota employs a system called an AVC/LAN that is a digital interface between the head unit and the amp. It behaves much like a compter Local Area Network. The head unit only has a two channel output and the amp is turned on remotely by a digital signal fromt the head unit. Because of this, the amp is useless without the head unit because only the digital signal from the factory head unit can turn it on. I know installers who have installed after market head units and burried the factory head unit somewhere in the dash just so they can use it to turn on the factory amp. (That is the most insane thing I have ever seen done!) You could leave the factory head unit in and use an after market amp, but you only have a two channel output from the HU, so you lose the ability to fade the front & back speakers.
    It gets even trickier when you look at how the speakers are set up. There are 3-way component speakers in the front doors of the JBL 10 spker system. The crossovers are built in to the amp, which also controls fade via the AVC/LAN communications. The woofers are 2 ohm, mids 3 ohm and the tweeters are 4 ohm. If you install and after market HU and bypass the factory amp, you would be sending a full range signal to all three speakers in each door. The tweeter has a filter on it to block low frequencies, so it's OK, but the woofer and mid have no filters and will receive a full signal. Trust me, it sounds like crap. You could install filters on the factory speakers to improve the sound, or use outboard crossovers, but its just easier to replace those cheap things and do it right.
    As I mentioned in an earlier post, I installed an Eclipse AVN30D head unit. You won't find this unit on Eclipse's site, because it is only available through dealers and is designed as an aftermarket uprade. It is identical to the AVN5435, but without pre-amp outputs. The advantage of this is that it is wired to interface with the steering wheel controls, so that functionality is not lost. If you install any other after market HU, you lose the steering wheel controls. There are ways around it, but they are expensive. My next project is to stuff and amplifier under the front passenger seat to power new CDT comps in the front doors and CDT coaxials in the rear doors. Should be a pretty awesome sound system when I'm done.
  • Need Help.
    I'm trying to install a skid plate to my '05 Sequoia. This is pathetic, but I am not able to remove the tow hook bolts. They are screwed on so tight. Does anyone have any experience in this installation? Is there a way to remove the bolts myself, or do I have to have a professional install it for me? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Also, I'm considering adding 22" rims. Any comments on 22" vs 20"?
  • czechm8czechm8 Posts: 23
    Sounds like you need a bigger wrench! Those bolts are tight for a reason. Just make sure you have the proper tools. You don't want to risk stripping the bolt heads because it gets much harder after that. If you don't have the tools necessary, it may be more cost effective to have the dealer install it rather than buy the correct tools for this one project.

    Be very careful when considering going to 22" rims. Two reasons:

    1) Size - the stock wheels are roughly 30.5" in overall diameter. You cannot get a 22" rim/tire combination that small. You can safely go to an overall diameter of about 31.5" without any rubbing issues to the stock suspension in any wheel/tire combination. Any bigger than that and you will need a lift kit. A 20" rim is the biggest you can go and still stay close to the stock diameter. I run 295/45/20's and they are fine. You could also go with 285/50/20's, which are a hair bigger. Keep in mind as well that any change from the stock tire diameter will affect your speedometer and odometer calibration. Have a professional fit the wheels for your vehicle. The backspacing and off-set are very critical in proper fitment.

    2) Mass - going to a larger wheel usually means an increase in mass. The reason that this is important is because it takes more braking power to stop more mass. The worst thing you can do is go to a 22" or 24" wheel and keep the stock brakes. It becomes very dangerous if you don't upgrade the brakes in that situation. Your truck will look cool, but you may not be able to stop in time to miss the kid that just ran out into the street. Plus, you will go through brake pads like crazy.
    I researched a lot before buying my Weld wheels for these reasons. The reason I chose 20" wheels is because of reason (1) above. The reason I chose Weld wheels is because of reason (2) above. They are almost exactly the same mass as my stock wheels because the are well engineered (light & strong). You get what you pay for - most of the cheap wheels you see in the trade magazines are heavy, poorly made wheels that are not designed and machined to close enough tolerances to even get them to balance and ride properly. Even the stock Toyota wheels are lug-centric, which can be very difficult to balance. A high quality wheel, like the Weld wheels are hub-centric and dead-center perfect with no runout.

    Good luck.
  • kennynmdkennynmd Posts: 424
    I couldn't take them out myself either. Luckily, my brother has an air compressor and took them out for me. Otherwise I would be SOL. Maybe you can try a local service station, that would take them out for you. You can do the rest of the install yourself.

    I have 20's on mine with 295/45/20. Not sure about 22's.
  • usairj1usairj1 Posts: 5
    We purchased a 2004 Sequoia SR5 Burgundy with Tan CLOTH interior. I installed a Vizualogic DVD system replacing both front headrest, and installing a TV Tuner under the console. While "gutting" the center console, I saw two connectors just under where the buttons for the heated seats would be located. I was wondering, although I have never seen heated cloth seats, if the wiring was all there and they only need the rocker switches to function. Although I never claimed to be the brightest bulb in the box, my questions are:

    1.Is the wiring and the heating elements in place and you only need to add the switches? (Realistically, I don't believe it would be that easy, but this Sequoia has fooled me before). This vehicle did not come with keyless remote, and for $200 for a new receiver, and 2 $9.99 ebay transponders, the silly thing actually worked. Wiring was already present, only the components were absent.(Off subject, sorry)
    2. Can you even use the Heated seat with cloth seats? (Again, don't believe so)

    Just thought I would ask......Next project if this is a no-go will be the install of the nav system from OEMValue.....
  • I am thinking about either adding either 20" or 22" rims to my '05 Sequoia. The stock rims are 17". I went to the dealer to ask about the wheel locks, but the sales person at the parts counter wasn't sure if the Toyota wheel locks for the stock 17" rims would work on my new rims. Does anyone know if I can use Toyota wheel locks on any other rims? I would think they're interchangeable, but I'm not not completely certain.
    Thanks for the help.
  • czechm8czechm8 Posts: 23
    It depends on whay type of wheels you will be putting on. The stock 17" wheels are lug-centric. This means that the lug is what actually centers the wheel about the hub. If you take one off you will see that there is a tapered end on the lug. When you screw it onto the stud, the lug actually completely slips inside the opening in the wheel, forcing the wheel into alignment.
    By contrast, most quality aftermarket wheels are hub-centric. This means that the bore in the center of the wheel fits tightly around the hub. The lugs on this type of wheel only hold the wheel tight against the rotor and do not function to center the wheel. If you look at one of these lugs, they are flat one the end, unlike the tapered lug mentioned above.

    If your new wheels are lug-centric, then there is a chance your existing lugs will work, but not guaranteed. I run 20's in the warm months, which are hub-centric wheels so I need two sets of lugs and lockers. I always carry 6 extra lugs in my hitch bag for the factory spare and the correct lug wrench in case I have a flat. I don't want to be stranded with the wrong wrench and lugs.
    You're best bet is to just get the correct set of new lugs for your new wheels

    Also, be very careful when considering anything larger than 20" wheels on your Sequoia. There is no 22" wheel/tire combo small enough to match the 30.5" diameter of your stock wheels. If you go larger, your speedo and odometer will register incorrectly. Your wheels may rub the control arms and fenders. You will also have increased mass at each wheel, which will put serious strain on your factory brakes and could cause a failure and serious injury. It may look cool, but you may not be able to stop in time to miss the kid that just ran into the street!
  • pj2pj2 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new 2005 Sequoia Limited 4x4 but didn't want the luxury package because I need the bench seat in the 2nd row. However, I do want the memory seating option since I'm 14" taller than my wife and hate the idea of re-adjusting the seat. I've had this option in several other vehicles and loved it. Any ideas?
  • tlettlet Posts: 3
    I pose this problem to you or anyone else who can help. I just bought a 2005 Sequoia LTD with the JBL E7006 Sound system w/NAV and rear seat DVD system. When the ignition key is in the ACC position, the system operates great. However, when I start the vehicle I get very little sound (when I turn the volume to MAX I get a small amount of audio). Also, the DVD system does not work when the vehicle is running (again it works fine when ignition is in ACC mode). The head unit does not seem to sense that a DVD is in the player because when I hit the "disc" button on the head unit, it says "no CD". When I do this when the ignition is on "ACC", it works fine. The dealer just ordered a new amp, but they can't assure me that is the problem. Any ideas???
  • navguy1navguy1 Posts: 181
    The unit in the dash (an AVN....E7006) does not play DVD movies... it only reads DVD-ROM map disc.

    Can you elaborate a little more about "low volume"? Is the volume low in CD or radio.... or is it the rear-seat entertainment (RSE) system volume that is low?
  • I'm still working on the modifications for my '05 Sequoia. Does anyone know where I can get clear corners? Thanks.
  • tlettlet Posts: 3
    If I have a DVD in the DVD player in the console and I press the "disc" button on the dash unit, the DVD sound plays on the system (when the igg key is on ACC or ON). If I do this when the engine is running, it says no-CD.

    The low volume is for the CD and radio. Basically, if you turn it all the way to "max", you can hear sound at a "normal" listening level. The RSE has no video or audio when the engine is running. However, it works fine when the engine is off and the ignition is on ACC or ON.
  • belizebelize Posts: 1
    Hi, I just purchased a 2005 Sequoia and want to put after market rims. I was thinking 20's nothing bigger. I live in Southern Cal. My question is. Is there anything special I need to know (Installation/tirrs size)? or any risks to running 20's?
  • czechm8czechm8 Posts: 23
    There are lots of things to know when going to this size of wheel. There are three major things to consider if you want them to fit properly and not mess too much with your speedometer and odometer calibration.
    1) overall diameter of tire/rim
    2) off-set
    3) back-spacing.

    The overall diamter of the stock tire/wheel combo is roughly 30.5 inches. You can safely go to about 31.5 inches and not experience any rubbing on the fender or suspension components. You cannot go larger unless your vehicle is lifted. Keep in mind that any tire/wheel combo that differs from your stock diameter will affect your speedo and odometer. If you go larger, you will actually be traveling faster than your speedo says and you will rack up miles at a slower pace. Just the opposite with a smaller wheel/tire.

    The off-set and back-spacing are very critical for an obstruction free fit and no rubbing. Off-set is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the exact center line of the wheel. Back-spacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the outer edge of the rim (the side that faces the axle).

    I run 20 x 8.5" wheels with 10mm off-set and 5.14" back-spacing on 295/45/20 tires and experience no rubbing on the upper control arms or even lock-to-lock turns. That tire size is very, very close to the stock diameter. You could also run 285/50/20's without any trouble.
    Consult a professional to make sure your wheels are fit properly. You don't want to sacrifice safety!
  • Czechme8-
    Thank you for your responses to all of my posts. I had the skidplate installed at the dealer. They ended up installing it for free since I had to wait over 2 hours. I should have paid more attention to your posts regarding getting 22" rims. I went to two tire centers to try to get them installed, but in the end, the rims would not fit. They said the offset was not correct (I got Bazo B26 rims, 22x9.5, with an offset of 18). I'm not very clear of what offset means, but the technician said I needed a more positive offset, around 40. Anyways, I am going to return these rims and get 20x9.0 ones instead. Any idea on the offset I will need for 20"? It comes in offset of either 35 (with hub bore of 78.1) or 18 (with hub bore of 87). All of these terms are foreign to me. Also, any suggestion on the tire size? I was thinking of getting 295/45/20 maybe? You can check out the website if it helps:
    Thanks again for your help. :sick:
  • czechm8czechm8 Posts: 23
    I would not go larger than 20's as you have discovered. Double check the bore sizes you mentioned. I think they are too small. Remember that Toyota uses a larger hub size than say, GM. The hub size should be more like 109 or 110 mm. If you are buying a hub-centric wheel, then the hub size has to be correct because the wheel is balanced around the hub, not the lugs. It's jut the opposite on the stock Toyota wheels, which are lug-centric.

    The off-set is the distance of the mating surface of the wheel from the exact center line of the wheel. The back-spacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the outer lip of the wheel (on the side that faces the axle).
    My wheels are 20 x 8.5 with a 10mm off-set. If your wheel is 9" wide then you are adding .25 inches to each side of wheel. To place that 9" wheel at the same off-center distance of the 8.5" wheel, the off-set would need to be about 7mm more (.25"), so the 18mm off-set that is mentioned on the Bazo site should fit, but again the bore numbers you mentioned seem too small for Toyota.

    I think you should really consider looking elswhere for your wheels. If you bought them locally, then they should be smart enough to know what will fit your vehicle. If you bought them on-line, they should be a little more heads-up too! You really need to find someone who knows what they are doing and are not just interested in selling you wheels of any size.

    I got my wheels from these folks. Check it out:

    They are very high quality wheels, bred from a racing background. They are located in Kansas City, which is where I purchased my vehicle. The dealer had an arrangement with them. They also have a very good warranty on the finish of their wheels. My 20 x 8.5" wheel and 295/45/20 tires only weigh 1 pound more than the stock 17's so they are very light as well. I have the Espada 6 in their Evo line of wheels. I am very happy with them. They are not hard to clean either because of their very non-porous finish.

    As far as size of tire........the 295/45/20's are OK. They are a hair smaller than stock, so at about 60 mph, I am actually traveling about 58.5mph. I verified this with GPS tracking. You would be OK as well with 285/50/20's, which are slightly larger than stock. I think if I had it to do over, I would go with a 285/50/20 because it looks a little better with more tire in the wheel well, plus your odometer will move slower. The Toyo Proxes ST tires I am running though are very sticky and handle well on dry and wet pavement. Better to have a good tire than the exact size you want because not all manufacturers make them in every size.

    Good luck!
  • kennynmdkennynmd Posts: 424
    I don't know anything about offsets or anything like that. Anyways, on my Sequoia, I have 295/45/20's and they fit perfect.
  • I got my 2005 nav sequoia last week and love it!
    I am an engineer and a SUCKER for the newest technology. I really wanted to disable the region code that prevents you from watching foreign or copied dvds AND watch those dvds while driving. I did a lot of research and believe the Toyota nav system detects movement through GPS. Sadly, the only conclusion I see is to replace the toyota system with an import from Hong Kong that doesn't have safety hang-ups (EBAY ~ $800).
  • amtd1amtd1 Posts: 1
    Is there any product that we can use that will fit in the existing overhead drop down slot?
  • ranma22ranma22 Posts: 2
    I recently put 22" rims w/ goodyear 305/40R22 - it's close to an inch higher than the original wheels and about an inch and a half wider. Few minor problems I encountered: 1) when making turns over 60 degrees turn, the tires are starting to hit the mudguard and the screw. 2) turns over 80 degrees, the tire is hitting the fender well and frame. This is on a 2WD - if you have a 4WD, I don't think you'd have a problem if you set to lift off-ground. It is annoying for me sometimes when I make U-turns, but I think once it eats a bit of plastic off my mudguards and wear on my tires, the problem would go away - I'm crossing my fingers. May I add another thing, the gas mileage was affected - I'm losing about a mile per gallon due to more traction.

    However, I recently put the PowerQuick for the fuel injector (it's a magnet that costs about $150 and very easy to install - takes about 2-3 minutes to install), and I'm gaining about a mile and a half more per gallon. I also installed a volt stabilizer w/ ground wires and gaining about 1/2 mile per gallon (takes about 30 minutes to install).

    Overall, w/ your 20" rims, I don't think you'll encounter the problems. :)
  • ranma22ranma22 Posts: 2
    check out
  • I heard that there are clear corner lught available on the Sequoia. I seen the pictures on Anyone know where to get them???????
  • Hello czechm8,

    So are you done with your sound system? How is it?

    I have a 04 Limited 4Runner(V6) and recently got AVN-30D installed. I have been told that the subwoofer won't work as there is no amp output and in order to get it work I need to install the pioneer amp. Should I be going for it? Will it produce the same quality sound which was being produced by the JBL Audio system?

  • No, still don't have everything installed. I'm going crazy trying to find the time to do it with a newborn baby in the house.

    Does your 4Runner have a factory sub woofer? I assume you are powering your factory speakers in all 4 doors with your AVN unit.

    The AVN30D is really no different than many aftermarket head units. It has a built in 4 channel amp that puts out about 15 watts RMS per channel and about 50 watts peak. It does not have pre-amp outputs (RCA jacks). That does not mean you can't use an external amp, you just need a Line Output Converter to convert the high-level output to a low-level output (RCA jacks) to feed your amp. You could also use an amp that has speaker-level inputs.
    If you are trying to compare the AVN30D with the AVN5435, then yes, there is a difference because the 5435 has three sets of RCA outputs (one for a subwoofer). It also has subwoofor contour controls.

    Let me know what your intentions are with a subwoofer and I might be able to help. What is the Pioneer amp you speak of? A factory amp?
  • I am not sure about subwoofer. I have "04 4Runner Limited 4WD" model with 10 Speaker JBL Premiun Sound System. I had JBL 6 CD changer which is now replaced by this AVN-30D with a slot for DVD and one slot for CD/MP3.

    Problem is that they told me that they can not plug in my subwoofer to AVN-30D and as a solution they asked me to put a some pionner amplifier (50W) to get the same quality of sound which I was getting with the original sound system. I have been told that my car has a subwoofer on the right side of the rear passenger seat.

    Just want to understand what modifcation is this about and will this give me the original sound quality which I was getting with JBL system?

    Thanks in advance.
  • I don't know about the 4Runner. It may very well have a subwoofer in it. If so, they are correct that you really can't power it from the AVN30D. I assume that you have speakers in all 4 doors plus the subwoofer, in essence giving you 5 channels worth of speakers. The AVN can only power 4 channels with its internal amp.
    If you want to keep all your stock speakers, the easiest solution would be to run an LOC off of one of the rear door speakers to get your low-level source to power a small amp for your subwoofer. has some very high quality adapters to get your pre-amp level output. Not familiar with the Pioneer amp, but 50 watts is probably plenty to power the factory subwoofer.
    The sound quality with your factory speakers won't be any worse than before, except that your subwoofer is not being used right now. The only way to really improve the sound quality is to replace the speakers and power them with an external amp.

    Think about what you want for the future before you go buy any of this. If it were me, I'd trash all your factory speakers and replace them with better quality and power them from a good 5 channel amp. The factory speakers are very average and can't handle much power. They can certainly handle what the AVN30D can throw at them though.
  • Have a 2001 Seq with 2004 Limited rims; original tire size is 265/65R17. Has anyone used 265/70R17 as a replacement tire, or any other size? Any rubbing issues?
  • 265/70/17's will fit just fine.
  • I've seen it in ebay for about $50...
  • navguy1navguy1 Posts: 181
    The techs at the dealership need to check the diagnostic menu to verify if any components in the audio/vidoe system are malfunctioning. Based upon the info provided I suspect the RSE computer.... the dealership can check this out and call Toyota technical for troubleshooting assistance if necessary. ;)
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