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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair



  • katdogkatdog Posts: 3
    Yesterday, I had the ball joints replaced as part of the recall. I told them something HAS to be wrong with the way the front right tire is wearing. They kept insisting tire pressure. I told them NO WAY. This was the second time the car was in for service about the tire wear. In December at 10,000 miles they gave me a new tire for the front right side and put my spare on the left side. Now 13,000 miles later the right side is badly worn on the outer edge . Same with the left front but not as bad. Toyota told me I needed to replace both tires. (My cost of $300!) I am trying to get them to pay for it. I really think it was caused by the ball joint recall. Interesting enough, the service Mgr, initially said no, the ball joints have nothing to do with it, but after I caused a stink, he placed a call to "someone" to see if others are having the same issue. I only have 23,000 miles on this truck. There is NO WAY this in normal. I told him I am persuing this to the next level. I search around this site and saw 8 other posting about outer right tire rim wear. Something is not right.
  • abbylouabbylou Posts: 33
    I am seeing that there are problems with late model Sequoias as far as alignment, but is anyone out there having issues with steering wheel vibration at about 55-60 mph? I have had the tires balanced three times with one of those Road Force balancers and with the adaptors that are needed because of it being a Toyota. All of my Toyota SUVs (inc 4Runners) have had balancing issues and I am wondering if the alignment/ball joints have anything to do with this?
  • Well, my 2003's both front tires started wearing out at the outer edge after about 10000 miles. At the time, though, I had no idea about the ball joint recall, so I started rotating them religiously (kind of costly to do on this SUV, and DIY is tough due to size of the vehicle/tires) and had the wheels aligned which did not need it. Anyway, I was able to make them last 53,000 miles before replacing them last month.
    I also had the ball joint replaced on recall pretty much at the same time frame. So, it is too early to tell, but the theory that the two are related is plausible.
  • Toyota said they'd get back to me if my 2001 was effected - and Ive heard nothing. Any idea what years are involved?
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    I had the ball joint changeover on my 2002 2WD at 40,000. Now have 90,000. First set of lousy Bridgestones came off at 50,000 with even wear. Noisy and marginal traction. 36 psi on fronts.
    Michelins now have 40,000 miles and look like will go another 30,000+. Rotate every 8 / 10,000 with front pressure at 36 / 38 psi. This is a 2WD of course.
  • We have the same issue with our 2003 Sequoia. Just replaced both front wheel bearings and it's still there. Have you found the fix for yours yet?
  • ylsfylsf Posts: 1
  • abbylouabbylou Posts: 33
    I just purchased a 2007 Sequoia and the Owners Manual did not help me much when I had to program my Homelink system. How i finally got it programmed was getting the info off the Homelink website and even e-mails from them. I got it done, but was difficult, but finally took. I will get the info from the e-mail that I receieve from them:
    **Put a brand new store bought battery in the hand-held remote. During the programming process the battery's energy will drain (more so with an older battery). A new battery will increase the speed and accuracy in which the hand-held remote sends its signal to HomeLink.

    **Check the frequency of the garage door opener hand held remote. HomeLink picks up frequencies between 286-322MHz and then from 335-399MHz. This information can usually be found on the back side of the hand held remote.

    If frequency is with in range try the following:

    **Retrain HomeLink holding the hand held remote at different lengths and angles from the HomeLink button you are trying to program. (Note step 2 in the training instructions below). Try 4-6 inches away and at a different angle. Also try holding the remote next to the right(third)button.

    Training Instructions:

    1. Press and hold the 2 outer HomeLink buttons until the indicator light changes from a solid to a rapid flash or the system goes from "clearing channels to channels cleared"(this will take 20 second to complete). *Do not repeat his step to program additional HomeLink buttons.

    2. Position the hand-held remote 1-3 inches away from the HomeLink button you would like to program.

    3. Simultaneously press and hold both the HomeLink and hand-held remote buttons. Do not release until step 4 has been completed.

    4. When the indicator light changes from a slow blink to a rapid flash, release both buttons.

    The garage door should now activate when the HomeLink button is pressed and released.

    **If you reside in Canada, you will need to replace step 3 above with the

    Press and hold the HomeLink button while you press and release the
    hand-held remote every 2 seconds until the indicator light changes
    from a slow blink to a rapid flash.

    Verifying a trained HomeLink:

    **To verify HomeLink has programmed to a non-rolling code ("fixed") garage door opener, press and hold the HomeLink button. If the indicator light remains solid, it has picked up the signal and should operate the door. If it remains a slow blink, HomeLink has not picked up the signal from the hand-held remote. Try programming the button again or chose another button to program.
  • 72heaven72heaven Posts: 17
    Anyone having any issues with the door handles in your Sequoia? I've replaced the rear hatch door handle and assembly, and we've had two door handles (inside)break.
  • abbylouabbylou Posts: 33
    Yes...I have. I have just recently purchased a 2007 Sequoia limited and my driver's door handle is not quite right? When you pull on it, it seems real tight and not quite latched 110%?
  • petro33petro33 Posts: 192
    If you do a search you will find that it is a common problem. Not sure why as I have an '01 and no door handle problems and 135,000 miles. I have had to replace the "stays" that keep the doors open when you are parked on a incline twice but never a broken handle.
  • 72heaven72heaven Posts: 17
    What did it cost to replace the "stays"? To replace the one door handle is $122. That's $32 for the part and $90 for labor.
  • mrquickmrquick Posts: 1
    The rear latch recently broke on my 01 Sequoia, but I've had no problems with any others. I am thinking of replacing it myself, because the dealership wants $85 for the part and a total of $275 to replace. Please share any info you might have, and I will do the same. Thanks
  • I too have 2001 Sequoia - one of the very 1st ones to arrive in Boston area, and now have 171,000 miles, and going strong. Had rear latch replaced once, expensively, but will not do that again. Have kept it very well lubed (WD-40) up at the cheap and poorly designed plastic latch handle and at the latch-grabber as well. The extreme cost to repair comes from the need to work around the power rear window motor inside the rear hatch, I was told. Too bad - they build great engines but the little things get you.
  • I just had the same thing happen to us. Dealer finds no problems. Any idea on a fix yet?
  • petro33petro33 Posts: 192
    I can't remember exactly but it was about $90 each door is what I remember.
  • afo62afo62 Posts: 1
    The rear latch broke on my '02 Sequoia in late '94 and just broke again. First time cost $300. Debating whether to do it myself. Does anyone have experience in the repair? Any links on How to?
  • prmilesprmiles Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 limited Sequoia 4x4, owning it for only 2 3/4 years because I purchased it in 12/04. It only has 28000 miles, and I have had to replace the brakes 2 times in the 2 3/4 year span of ownership, amongst numerous other issues (VSC and brake light coming on and the dealer telling me it is OK, that they can't find a problem), and have incurred in the little amount of time of ownership already almost $5000 in maintenance bills, excluding the oil changes. My mistake is that I keep taking it to a toyota service repair shop and every time I see the (VSC/Brake) light come on, or if I feel the truck does not drive well, I get hit with a minimum $300 bill for some item to repair to "solve the problem" and I continue having the same problems. Now, I just paid $1200 in July for some "necessary repairs" to "solve the problem" and took the car back yesterday because the light continues, and the front brakes sound odd (although they were just replaced), and now they say I need new tires, some kind of fuel injection wash, new tires, and some other kind of nonsense, with an added total estimate of $1300. I told them no way, they should just do the recall replacement, order a new sensor for the brake, and the other repairs I would get re-evaluated and possibly done by another repair shop. No more Toyota service shop for me! I am now thinking of getting rid of it. I bet that recall item had something to do with all these "necessary repairs". I am the first owner of this truck and only owned it for 2 3/4 years. I am starting to doubt Toyota's reputation for providing good vehicles that maintain their "value". I have put way more money than a joe next door that has an american car. I am looking at dodges or nissans now.
  • I am sorry to hear the story you tell of a bad dealer. My 2001 gets 62k on the front brakes and 90k on the rear, and 70k+ on Michelin Cross Terrain or LTX - but primarily highway miles. I specify TOYOTA brake parts and if the shop says they are out of stock, and want to use after market at some cost savings - I cancel my appmt.
    In 172,000 miles I have put less than $3000 into this vehicle. Some items were replaced under warranty and extended Warranty to 100,000 but after that I have had even less trouble. I hope the model and parts have not changed that much for the worse since the 2001 model to the 2004. I would find another dealer even if that means a longer drive and a loaner vehicle. Best of luck,
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    I as well am sorry to here of your problems. My 2002 has 90,000 miles. One set of brake pads. Original rotors. Original Bridgestones went a little over 50,000. Lousy tire actually. Michelins have 40,000 and look like they will go another 30 to 40,000.

    I have a great dealer and service dept in Scottsdale AZ. Come on over. Reasonable and honest.
  • I have a 2001 Sequoia Srt with just under 100,000 miles. Out of no where without warning, the vehicle stalled as we were pulling into a parking spot. Started back up and revved fine in Park and Neutral but when you put it in Drive, Reverse, 1 or 2, the engine would stall immediately. Let it sit for an hour and then same thing happened so I towed it back to the dealer. Problem is they claim "nothing is wrong" and drove it no problem. Anyone know of a similar issue and perhaps what is causing it? I'd like to prevent it from happening again. Thanks.
  • prmilesprmiles Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestion. I do love the Sequioa because of the look and space, and we do need new tires, so as a result of your suggestion, along with other people recommending it as well, we found Michelin Cross Terrain tires at Costco at the price of 4 for $819, which includes installation, lifetime rotation, balancing and warranty through 65K miles. (They don't do wheel alignments, but I am checking where I can get that done). The service department wants to charged me $260 for each michelin tire, and $160 for each dunlop tire. Will probably decide this weekend what to do. As for dealer service centers, I am relocating to JAX, Fl, so I hope I will have better service there (which I have not been able to find in NY). Thanks again.
  • I don't own a Sequoia, but I do own a Toyota. You need to do what I did....switch dealers. I'd also complain to Toyota corporate and make NHTSA complaints. What you've paid out of pocket is ridiculous.
  • I have an 03 SR5 and my VSC & Trac Control and ABS lights are on. my brake light will come on periodically. Toyota says that I need a YAW Rate Sensor that will take care of all the lights. Has anyone ran into this? I asked if the sensor will effect the vehicles performanc. They replied NO
  • dgutdgut Posts: 12
    Hi, I had a 2001 SR5 and a dealer told me the same thing. We were in S. Carolina at the time and had to get back home to Connecticut. Dealer in SC said is was fine to drive. He was WRONG! The VSC system fully activiated on I-81 at 70 mph for no reason. When the VSC system activates, it turns power off to the engine and applies the brakes. The driver has practically no control except to steer. Very scarey. We were lucky to be in the right lane with a shoulder to pull off on to. Traded it in, reported it to Toyota and the NHTSA as soon as I got home. As far as I know, nothing was done by either. BE CAREFULL
  • I have 153000 miles on my 2001 Sequoia and have had no major problems until the VSC light came on. It took 3 times for it to come on before the dealer finally replaced the Yaw sensor. Hopefully, it is repaired. Yes, it is a dangerous problem as the last time it came on the engine cut off and my wife managed to steer it to the shoulder. After being a great vehicle, she is now afraid to drive it on a trip.
  • I have a 2005 Sequoia and the rear wiper, washer & defogger quit working. I've read through the owner's manual, checked and replaced some of the fuses I thought it might be, nothing?? HELP, any ideas??
  • Try opening the back window and then closing it.
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 315
    Same thing happened to mine. Back window wasn't all the way up.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • we have already had this fixed and replaced twice we finally contacted toyota and we got the standard this is no longer under warranty and they have no records of this being a problem with this model.

    evidently no one is telling them that it is a problem. i am seriously considering doing a post on a few sites looking for people who have the same problem and start a class action suit with a local attorney
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