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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair



  • We are on our second sequoia. both had the same problem. short story, it's your transmission.
    ours started with the lurch at stop lights etc. we also were told it was our air conditioner! the problem continued to get worse. it proceeded to a roaring when we were about 65mph, and the transmission started slipping then slamming into gear.

    we had to have to the transmission replaced in the first one. when the same problem started to happen on the second sequoia, we took it to freeman toyota in hurst, tx. the service manager knew exactly what it was. i cannot remember the part, but they replaced ours and we have been fine since.

    good luck!
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Could you check your work order for the transmission part that was replaced.

    THX ........ Harbo [email protected]
  • vmallarivmallari Posts: 4
    possible speed sensor.
  • Check your shocks first by going to each corner of the vehicle and pushing the corner down. A rebound should only happen once..., anything more means you will to replace both sides. If one front is bad, both fronts will need replacement. After replacement, then get the alignment. I suggest Bilstein shocks. Regarding your springs, should last the life of the vehicle unless abused. If you notice one side is lower or obviously lower, yes, it might be time to replace the springs. Since you are replacing the shocks, check and see if the strut towers will need replacement due to the miles you have driven.
  • calhounccalhounc Posts: 1
    Thanks for your reply! I had been struggling with the same problem of my 2005 Sequoia rear window, defroster, and wiper that just quit working. I went out and slammed the door a few times, then ran my hand along the inside and outside of the bottom window seam, and tried to push the window up, then magically they all started working again! I think it was all because the window was stuck.
  • sb55sb55 South HeroPosts: 369
    I have read on this forum about tailgate latch handles breaking. Last week, I was going on a trip and had a very hard time opening the latch. I thought "Oh s**t", my time had come for it to break just before a trip.
    I decided to spray the catch in the tailgate and bumper with some lithium grease.
    This solved the latch problem immediately.
    Maybe this simple fix will solve some other people's problems.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • I know you probably have answers by now but I had the same problem on my '03 and took it in to my dealer and they filled the brake fluid over the max line. No problems after that.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,079
    A reporter hopes to speak with current owners of large SUVs who are trying to sell their vehicle and their experience. If you are a consumer with a large SUV that just sold or looking to sell, please respond to [email protected] with your daytime contact information no later than Monday, March 24, 2008.


    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • rdog1rdog1 Posts: 2
    Hope someone can help...

    Rear door handle broke and I bought the part and replaced it myself....the handle was highway robbery at $90. Door worked fine for about half a day but now it won't open and I don't think its the handle.

    It almost seems like the rear door is stuck in the "locked" position because you don't hear it unlock when you unlock the rest of the doors.

    So, does anyone have any experience removing that housing that the latch itself (and obviously the locking mechanism) is in? I can't for the life of me figure out how to open it up and see if the cable has just come loose from there.

    When replacing the handle I did do some tugging on the cable so I could get the door open and work on it that way instead of all cramped up inside the car but now it appears I am stuck doing that because I can't get the door open at all. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated but I don't want to take to the dealer unless I absolutely have to.

  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    I have had the same experience on my Sequoia. It appears the electical contacts on the mechanism can be cleaned (or) in one situation I simply tapped (hit) the solenoid with a hammer and it went back to work. The biggest job is getting at the stuff inside the door, similiar to what you did when you pulled on the cable.

    Have fun ....... <(-;
  • bross1bross1 Posts: 1
    My keyless entry (both) and rear window will not work. I've changed batteries in both remotes and verifyied that the fuse was not blown. Any advice?
  • sb55sb55 South HeroPosts: 369
    Did you confirm that the rear window is ALL the way up. I know that mine was down maybe 1/8" and the rear wiper and defogger wouldn't work. It's possible that it's the same thing. Put it all the way down, then back up and maybe the contacts

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • dlhooddlhood Posts: 1
    I brought my Sequoia to the dealer because nothing in the back worked: no defroster, wiper, wetter, window, nothing. The Service person asked me if I made sure that the window was up all the way because sometimes that makes a difference - I thought she was crazy. I had her check the fuses, but the fuses were fine. Then I came to this website and read about the window possibly not being up all the way. My husband and I played with the window a bit, not thinking that it would make a difference...EVERYTHING WORKS NOW. WHO WOULD EVER HAVE BELIEVED IT!!! Thank you for your advice :) What a nice change - a cheap fix (free actually).
  • koolookskoolooks Posts: 1
    I just found this wed site looks great. I have a 2003 with 90,000 miles bought new in 2003. Best auto I have ever owned. One problem rear window hasn't worked in about 4 years. I have read if I force the back window up it might start working again, is that correct?
  • sb55sb55 South HeroPosts: 369
    Great to hear you had success. Forums can help..... , often save a trip to the dealer and $$.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • tfultz3tfultz3 Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I have read the links on this subject, Thanks for the info! When my latch finally broke, I was able to swap it out myself minus $71 for the latch. I got it in and it worked until I locked it and it would not re-open. It seemed that the power lock was not activating. I was concerned that I would not be able to open the door since the cable pull will not work while the door was locked.

    Back into the the door a second time. I was finally able to locate a lose connection on the black exterior panel which seems to be a termination point for the harness.

    I was then able to lock and unlock the door with no problems. I must of done it 20 times to make sure it worked.

    later that day, we made a trip to Home Depot to get a lawn mower and when I got to the latch, it was not working. Arrrghhh. I can hear the power lock activating, but the door will still not open. Now I am really worried that I might not be able to get the door opened with removing the latch itself.

    I am planning on re-entering the car this weekend and clean all the contact points and perhaps using tie wraps to make them tight. I am hoping that they got loose due to the drive.

    Is this just due to wiring contacts, or am I missing something? Could the rear lock be in a different mode? Is it the latch itself?

    Any advice would be appreciated....

  • rdog1rdog1 Posts: 2

    I was the one who brought this question up a few weeks ago and I made the following discovery.

    The problem was not with my locking mechanism. The problem was that somehow, the cable was applying enough pressure to the locking mechanism that it was acting similarly to when you try and unlock a door while someone is pulling on the handle...the lock stays engaged. As soon as I disconnected the cable from the handle, the door unlocked and I was able to open it.

    However, the only solution I came up with was to get some pliers and bend the notch where the cable hooks into the handle lever so as to shorten the distance the cable had to stretch to make the connection and take some of the tension out of the cable. Mine works perfectly now. Good luck.
  • sdefranksdefrank Posts: 2
    Our 2005 Sequoia's tail gate assist struts have both failed. Toyota wants nearly $200 each (x 2) just for the replacement parts. That seems extremely high. However, I realize it is a heavy unit and a safety concern, because it is difficult to lift and will slam down on anyone underneath the gate if they are not careful. Any experience with good after market units that are more reasonable? Most aftermarket units are between $50 and $100 for cars and light trucks. $200 each is just a shocker. Thanks for your input.
  • hdfatboyhdfatboy Posts: 324
    "Our 2005 Sequoia's tail gate assist struts have both failed. Toyota wants nearly $200 each (x 2) just for the replacement parts. That seems extremely high. However, I realize it is a heavy unit and a safety concern, because it is difficult to lift and will slam down on anyone underneath the gate if they are not careful. Any experience with good after market units that are more reasonable? Most aftermarket units are between $50 and $100 for cars and light trucks. $200 each is just a shocker. Thanks for your input."

    I would have thought that a 2005 sequoia would still be under warranty or only slightly out of warranty. I can't imagine that the rear hatch struts would have both failed and Toyota isn't covering them, certainly if they are "in warranty" and they should be covered if they're only slightly out of warranty since they didn't just fail at the same time yesterday. Am I missing something?
  • sdefranksdefrank Posts: 2
    Nope, you're not missing anything in this story. Unfortunately, we are just out of warranty by a little over 1100 miles, and our Town Center Toyota dealer in Marietta, Georgia made that quite clear when we called about the problem. I agree with you, the failure probably was progressing for some time, with the left strut compensating for a period of time. Unfortunately, there were no symptoms until the system failed completely.
  • hdfatboyhdfatboy Posts: 324
    I might try another dealer pointing out that the struts have been failing for some time. I would also get the Toyota Regional office involved. Hatch struts failing in 3 years is unacceptable and I really can't believe Toyota isn't going to back the replacement of these struts given the situation and timing you shared.
  • aliminalimin Posts: 80
    I have an '05 SR5 (72K miles) and took it to the dealer yesterday after the service engine and vsc/trac lights went on. They read the code and determined the charcoal canister needed replacement - to the tune of close to $500. After searching the forum , I found that the canister can be damaged over time by simply over-filling the gas tank (confirmed by the dealer). I don't recall "over filling" that much - if anything I might have pumped a bit more into the tank just prior to a long trip - and wonder if anyone else has had the issue and how Toyota dealt with it. Thanks.
  • raytmaraytma Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2005 Sequoia. How do you move the window up? :confuse:
  • gobucs1gobucs1 Posts: 1
    Just purchased an 02 Sequoia. Not sure how the immobiliser works. Now engine will not start. Windows will not work. Believe somehow immobiliser is probably engaged, and will not allow engine to start. Any suggestions?
  • My 2002 rear hatch door handle is just hanging there. Please help me. I really do not have the money to take to a dealer, is this something I can do on my own.
    Thank you for any help on this.
  • fredypalmafredypalma Posts: 1
    hi there, i would like to know whatever happened to your claim on 03 sequioa? i having pretty much the same problem with mine, plse let me know. thanks
  • katdogkatdog Posts: 3
    OMG! this actually worked!!! Thank you, we've tried everything to push the window up or down. We could not get it to work. Your 1,2,3 slam method worked perfectly!!!!

    You saved us $$$$$$$ for GAS!
  • cat21cat21 Posts: 5
    Heaven if you haven't fixed your handle yet.I would strongly recommend you pay someone else, unless you have alot of time on your hand.The handle only cost around 60.00 from the dealer,but it took my husband and I about 3 or 4 hours to install.
  • cat21cat21 Posts: 5
    My 2002 Toyota Sequia's Vsc track system failed today and it was a beautiful sunny day. I was coming home when my Vsc track lights came on and my right front tire started grinding and trying to pull me to the right. I pulled into the turn lane and turned my vehicle off and back on, and the lights went off until I started driving again. I engaged slowly trying to get home because I was only a few miles away and it was almost 100 degrees outside. I made it home,but haven't taken my car to a shop yet I thought I would find out a little more about this before I put my suv in the shop. Any advice or tips
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Is this a 4WD? It sounds like the outer "U" joint failed (or) likely a wheel bearing or brake failure at that wheel. Did the brakes work. Was the grinding steady (wheel bearing) or cyclical ( the "U" joint).
    Please Post your outcome ..... I'm curious. I have 105K on my 2WD Sequoia, so far bullet-proof.
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