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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair



  • raybobraybob Posts: 3
    Can you manually release the latch by taking off the interior panel??
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    yes - Believe you can - just be careful removing the panel - helps to have some panel pullers (cheap sets avail. from Harbor Freight - you might need them again) so you can re-attach it w/o destroying any of the clips. A junk yard might have the part but you might need to bring the panel pullers along. The upper Plastic latch release part was $60 or $75 - and as I said, in 200k miles I'm on my 3rd so might not be worth getting one off a wrecked Seq. that might be ready to break. My son the mechanic did the job in 1 hr.
  • raybobraybob Posts: 3
    Just for fun, I went by my local Toyota dealer today and asked them what they thought the problem was. As you can guess, they weren't much help and occered to make an appointment to fix it. I didn't fall for it. I guess it comes down to me trying to get the hatch open from the outside and when that fails, roll down the window and jump in head first! I'm sure I can fix it, but don't really want to spend my time when I could be doing more productive, like fishing, golf, or being lazy. I guess tomorrow's the day to do it. Thanks for the help. Ray
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 315
    Try a body shop. That's what I did, and got it fixed for $75.00.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • aliminalimin Posts: 80
    Had the camshaft sensor replaced at 88K miles on my '05 SR5 at the local Toyota dealer($400); was wondering if that indicates other engine/transmission problems might be coming along, or would that be considered "expected" wear and tear? Thanks!
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    At 209,000 miles I can honestly say I have yet to replce any engine components - either due to wear or failure on my 2001 Sequoia. The vehicle and powertrain continues to amaze me. I have replaced 4WD seals and the Diff once under warranty, and had the intake manifold leak air which necessitated rrplacement at 99,000 just inside warranty $(1300). But other than brakes and O2 sensors (Check engine light) and the PRNDL light on dash - not even a light bulb replacement! I tried aftermarket Sylvania headlights to improve my night vision but they failed after 1 yr and Sylvania even agreed that was 'Normal for "High performance" bulbs"\' - but sent me a replacement coupon - So when they failed again in another year I put the original Toyota bulbs back in and they're still going strong. So much for Sylvania manufacturing and hype - or maybe Toyota QC.
  • kineokineo Posts: 7
    Wondering have you also not changed the timing belt?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    Expected wear and tear.
  • aliminalimin Posts: 80
    Thanks, canddmeyer. I asked the question because after owning 7 Toyotas over the last 38 years (Tercel, 3 Camrys, Highlander, Corolla and Sequoia) this was my first camshaft sensor issue with any vehicle.
  • John9393John9393 Posts: 3
    I know this reply is a year and a half late, but I found it when I went looking, so I'll reply just in case anyone else finds this. I have a 2001 Sequoia LTD, and we had it in to the dealer for a check engine light on. The dealer ran the codes, and told us we had two bad catalytic converters and a bad rear oxygen sensor. Their estimate: $4000 for the repair.

    Now this sounded a bit fishy to me. I've heard of catalytic converters going bad, but not on a vehicle only 8 years old.And for sure not two at the same time. Way too much of a coincidence!!

    So I went to a mechanic friend of mine and asked him the question. And he said there was a good chance that just replacing the bad oxygen sensor would correct all of the codes. So I bought a new sensor at AutoZone ($129), rented a car code reader. The code reader "confirmed" what the shop had said - both catalytic converters and one oxygen sensor had trouble codes. I swapped out the sensor (15 minute job), and cleared the computer (pulled the negative battery cable off for 5 minutes). Sure enough, when I redid the code read, it came up clean - no problems.

    So for $129 and 15 minutes, I saved $4000. Not bad. But I think that buys me the right to complain a little. This is speculation on my part, but it seems like the only sensor points that could show a problem in either catalytic converter are the two rear oxygen sensors. And if one of them is showing a trouble code, couldn't that be the cause of the catalytic converters showing trouble codes?? It's kinda like saying, "That sensor is broken, but it is still working fine." I would think the dealer would at least say, "You have a bad oxygen sensor and POSSIBLY two bad catalytic converters. But we need to change the oxygen sensor before we can be sure." Come on - two catalytic converters coincidentally failing at exactly the same time?? The dealer is supposed to be smarter than I. How come this sounded suspicious to me, but not to them? So I'm not saying the dealer was crooked (after all, the codes for two bad catalytic converters and a bad sensor did show up on the computer). I'm just saying that it is not a bad thing to get a second opinion for any larger repair, even if it is a dealer telling you that you need it....
  • nuginugi Posts: 4
    Just venting here. I purchased my 2004 Toyota Sequoia with an extended 7 year 100k platinum warranty. Never needed until recently when 1) the Drive light on the dash board went out, not a huge deal but when the car is in Drive, the instrument panel is blank. Anyway it was not covered because it was considered a light bulb, even though it is not really accessible for the normal driver, so that sucked!!. 2) The check engine light came on the other day , took it down to the dealer to fix the problem, thought to myself, good think I bought that extended warranty since it didn't apply to the drive light at least I get some ROI here. They came back and stated it was a P0441, P0446 EVAP system leak detected and stated, I left the gas cap loose (which I didn't and would be the first time in 5 yeer expressing my displeasure with the service director, he said he'd split the cosars). Plus tank was haft empty... does it take 4 days for a light to turn on? Thank you very much, now bend over and take this.....$131 diagnostic fee, What a rip. I told them about the great platinum plan i bought and how they said it would cover everything, but then he states that they have nothing to do with the extended warranty stuff, Getting upset, I told him I bought the extended warranty from Toyota, the same name embroidered on his shirt and on his paychecks so please do tell me they have nothing to do with the extended warranty (sigh)..Anyways he offered to split the diagnostic fee, so I paid $65.50 which was a little less painful. Wondering if I should bring it back if the check engine light comes back on, just for them to tell me i left the gas cap loose and charge me $131 again. Funny if they had found a problem, there wouldn't have been a charge, but because they didn't they had to charge me. Save your money and don't go with the extended warranty. The 2 times I tried to use it I got denied. My two cents.
  • trapper51trapper51 Posts: 27
    I empathize with your experience. I also believe that your extended warranty is good at ANY repair shop not just Toyota - so cultivate a relationship with a trustworth place that has good equipment and can work on Toyotas. That said, replacing the PRNDL (park,reverse, neutral....) lite as its called, was quoted to me on my 2001 Seq at 190k miles for $125. I balked, having just had 2 Toyotas in for timing belt replacement - about $1800 for both - so out of the blue the dealer called me the following week for a FREE PRNDL lite replacement - good PR I think. On the Diagnostic charge - I have been charged $65 to tell me my check engine lite was ON because my Brake Fluid was low. I was burned but now having a techician in the family, I understand fancy dealers need to recover techician time regardless of the simplicity of the fix, else have few tech's on staff - which hurts us all. Save for the few Check engine and Oxy sensor issues, my 2001 has been a rock compared to the Yukons and Explorers of the world.
  • hjmarthjmart Posts: 2
    :) I have read most of your posts with intense interest. Even though there are a few bad ones out there I can assure you all that toyota makes a superior truck. I have a 2002 with 130,000 miles. I have changed the timing belt at 110k which I admit is late, changed the oil on time, flushed the brake system, lubed the chassis and besides consumable parts like brake pads and roters, one battery and a set of michelins I have had no problems with my seqoiua. I am a bit disturbed by the clicking noise from the engine but the explanations I received from this forum seem plausible. The noise has not hurt the performance. I recently looked at a new sequoia but the one I have runs just fine so i changed my mind. I guess this is the opposite of venting. I'm happy.
  • I had to change the O2 sensor today on my Sequoia. The one I bought at Auto Zone had different color wires than the old one I took off. I could not make heads or tails of the directions on how to match the colors correctly. I went back Auto Zone and the guy didn't know any more than I did. Can anyone tell me how to wire up the new O2 senor to the plug that plugs into the wiring harness?
  • glo6glo6 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Limited Toyota Sequoia with 117K miles. I purchased it new. I haven't had the belts changed yet. Is this going to cause me problems? When should the belts have been changed? I've done all other maintenance checks, oil changes,tires recalls etc.

    I'm trying to stretch a dollar, but I don't want to delay this too long and damage the engine.

  • I am having the same problem. have you found an ans to this problem yet? Please let me know what you found out.

  • When these light can on did you also loose power; no acceleration? please advise.

  • You didn't specify which belts you were refering to because this V8 also has a timing belt. There was a noise problem with the alternator and fan belts during cold weather. The newer belts have been manufactured to compensate for the colder temperatures and are very quiet. If they have no visible cracks or frayed edges, they are good for about 36K or three years. The trick is to change them out before they fail and leave you stranded. Serpentine belts are good for about 5 years because they are thinner, run cooler and are more flexible. The timing belt should be changed at 90K. Again, change it before it fails. I changed mine at 117K but I could have just been lucky.
  • reaureau Posts: 18
    The dealership I have my Toyota serviced at told me I need to have the timing and drive belt replaced (agree it is recommended) and the quote is $699.95. Is this a reasonable amount? I only ask because it seems since they have moved to their new high cost building their "recommendations" seem to come more frequently and are costing me more every time I bring the car in for an oil change. It is a 2003 with around 95,000 miles, and I do agree that it is needed just want to be sure I am not being ripped off. Is it better to have this done at the dealership? I do have an independent mechanic that works on my son's car that I trust and I will get a quote from him unless you think this is a reasonable amount, then I won't bother. But it does need to be done ASAP for a trip this weekend. Thanks!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Someone over in the Sequoia Consumer Reviews paid $700 last June. Someone else paid $1,500! (same month).

    Not cheap either way. :sick:
  • reaureau Posts: 18
    Ouch! Well, I must say that with the exception of the rear door latch breaking last year (I see from these boards that it is quite common and expensive to repair!) that I really have not had to put any money into this car and it still looks and works great. So, I guess I will call and have them do the job. I just wanted to be sure. Like I said, since they have moved to their building I seem to be getting a lot more suggestions on work that needs to be done.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I didn't check but it's good to do if yours is an interference engine.

    Service writers tend to work on commission, so they do tend to "make suggestions".
  • tleatlea Posts: 1
    This seems to be a common occurrence. The ABS system fails causing the VSC and Track lights as well as the break warning lights to appear. I lost control of the car with a strong pull to the left, grinding sound and inability to stop the car. The car also began to shake violently. Toyota says this is not a safety issue and will not issue a recall. The cost to fix said problem is around $4000!!!! I have contacted the NHTSA and filed a complaint, this is the only way to make Toyota responsible. If you are having the same issue PLEASE call 888-327-4236 and file a complaint. There is only strength in numbers. They must fix this before someone gets killed!!!
  • Thank you for the info! I'm calling and reporting it -

    I too have a 2003 Toyota Sequoia with the SAME problem! I haven't had the shaking or the loss of control YET but, I don't want to. The dealership is telling me that they are the only ones who can get the part and fix it. $3k - BS
    Right before a planned Xmas vacation????
    Check this out -

    HUNDREDS of folks having same problem - if we could get them all to call and report it...
  • had anybody done it yet,do it youself.Need advice how to do it,do crankshaft and camshaft t mark have to line up before you you put timing belt and serpentine belt?
  • I brought my car to the dealer and told me the Yaw Rate Sensor and Skid Control must be replaced from $600 - 1,600. I was surprised about it since I have only 42,000 miles on it. The code is 1223 ABS control system and 1244 deceleration sensor. According to TSB#00303 - vsc Light on condition with diagnostic trouble code C1231 in the skid control computer memory. A modification to the sked control computer logic hwas bee made to prevent this condition, November 18, 2003. I think this is a defective part or system. I have read many problems regarding this...
  • I have the same problem and Toyota dealer will be charging me $600 up to 1,600 to replace the Yaw rate sensor and skid control system. It is rediculous for Toyota cars, and I have only 42,000 miles on it. I have also Toyota Camry and hope it will not be like that. Next time buying cars, I am going for Honda.
  • All,
    Just brought my 08 Sequoia Limited back to the dealer to replace about seven rusted hose clamps. It was all very strange, like something had been sprayed on the clamps making them rust. Dealer replaced them.

    Any one else experience this problem? Only 6K miles on vehicle.
  • My 03 rear hatch door handle broke & the door is locked in the closed position. I have ordered the new part however cannot find any detailed instructions in how to properly disassemble the door without damaging it to install the new handle. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks
  • I had the same problem a few months ago. I googled "Sequoia rear door handle" and found a lot of folks out there with the same problem. It's a bit hard to apply some of the instructions you find without pics... Even if you don't understand everything now, read through and you'll know a few things not to do...

    This page helped me the most: _Toyota_Sequoia

    For me the hardest part was getting the hatch open so I could work on it - and I will say once you get it open, put something over the latch so it can't close again - I kept trying to find a better working position, and closing the hatch again by accident.

    Good luck!
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