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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    OK, let me understand this. Your let your vehicle run dry and somehow it's the vehicles fault? Whatever.....
  • Given all the serious problems listed on this site, this one sems trivial. My son has an '04 A4 turbo quattro. Tail light has burned out. Owner's manual says take it to the dealer. I did see a series of photos on a web site showing how the entire tail ight assembly needed to come out to teplace a bulb. Lots of potential for expensive damage.

    Assuming that one is of less than average mechanical ability, is this something to leave to a dealer despite that it will probably cost $50 to replace a $2.50 light bulb.

  • I have a 2004 A4 1.8T (79,000 mi.)which is now sitting as upon completion of a 2.5 hour drive the check engine and oil light went on and the engine began sounding a bit like a diesel engine. I immediately parked and it needed 1.5 qts of oil to top it off, but other than that I have done nothing. It seems to be foolish to drive 6 miles it to the dealer. Would this be indicative of the sludge problem that this engine has been having, or something else?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    It's possible. How often have you had the oil changed and what kind of oil have you used???

    Best Regards,
  • YES, that is exactly what happen to our A4. TOW it to the dealer and contact Audi Customer Relations ASAP.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Doesn't sound good. If it's not sludged up (have you used synthetic oil faithfully?) then you still need to figure out where the oil is going.

    Also this engine is very fussy as to which oil filter you use. If you have some kind of jiffy-lube filter in there, get it out fast and put in an Audi filter.
  • i'm a new member of this forum. i'd just like to post my car issues over the years. i seem to have similar issues like most in this forum.

    1. "Jerking" when changing gears (R to D...P to R) and accelerating. This has happened just a handful of times over the years.
    AUDI DIAGNOSIS: ECU did log the occurances but they could not replicate the issue in the shop. of course! More of a nuisance when it occurs. i just try not to accelerate quickly after changing gears.

    2. "Light Bulb" indicator. Occasionally pops up when i hit a pothole...i figure its a loose connection somewhere. not worth the money to fix. i just drive over another pothole to fix it. ;)

    3. "Oil Light". This has been coming on more over the past 10K miles. I've put in 2 quarts of synthetic within this time.

    4. "Hard Cranking". This too has just started recently (past 15K). It would occasionally take 2 tries to start the car. I think it might be related to the oil sucking.

    I haven't been true to the maintenance schedule of the car so i decided to the do the major and timing belt at 95K.

    AUDI DIAGNOSIS 11/5/07: They opened the timing belt cover and found an OIL LEAK in 2 of the hydrolic tensioners for the timing belt. COINCIDENCE with items 3 and 4...i thought it made sense so i decided to pay for the repairs ($3000+). i did inspect the car (they actually let me in garage!). it didn't appear they smeared oil in the covers or tensioners (I have trust issues with auto shops).

    Anyways, i'll see in the next 3-4K miles whether i still have the hard cranking issues and whether i'll need to put more oil or not. But i guess my suggestion to folks who are experiencing items 3 and 4 to remove the covers for the timing belt and take a quick look. it didn't seem to troublesome to do from what saw.

    Otherwise...i think this car has taken pretty good care of me over the years considering i didn't follow all the maintenance schedule.
  • I've been told that I need an ECM (Engine Control Module) for my '99 Audi A4. After reading some other message boards I've found that the problems with the car are consistent with what other Audi owners experienced who needed an ECM. Can anyone tell me what I should be paying for this part? I was given a quote of about $900 for the part. Is this accurate? Please advise.
  • I have an Audi A4 3.0 that I bought used. It has about 50K on it. I just had the front brakes and rotors replaced as well as the fuel pump which had been recalled. I took it into the dealer in the first place because a light (which I now know was the Electronic Stabilization Program light) flashed on and some time stayed on. The first time it happened, I pulled into a nearby lube place because I didn't want to get on the highway with it. The guy there thought I needed air in the tires. He put a little air in each tire. It was fine for the rest of the drive. On my way home, the car sometimes felt like it was hydroplaning (or similar slid-y feeling) when changing lanes or turning. The next day I took it the dealer (which I now hate). They did the work on the brakes and fuel pump and changed oil and charged me a lot of money but said the ESP light had reset itself and was not a problem. I asked if the mechanic had taken the car out for a test drive and was told yes. I picked up the car today and it still felt weird when I was driving. On my way home for work, I still had the same problem and the ESP light came on again and the car seemed to be making adjustments in the wheels as if there was no traction in one of the tires or sides of the vehicle. It wasn't raining when I was driving and I haven't had this problem previously. It's a really weird unsafe feeling when I'm driving. I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer again without having a better idea of what the problem is. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know of a good audi mechanic in the montgomery co., maryland. The dealership I went to was on rockville pike and I was very unhappy with their customer service. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.
  • anarsanars Posts: 1
    I have an Audi A4 2000. There seems to be something drining the battery becasue if I leave it for 2-3 dys, the battery is dead. I replaced the battery 6 months ago, so its not the battery. anybody have a problem like this?
  • sdazzsdazz Posts: 2
    I have had my '97 Audi A4 for almost 5 years now and have paid about 50% of the purchase price in repairs over the years. The car is at about 95k and is in need of a timing belt. About 4 months ago I looked into a trade-in and found that I would pretty much get the cost of the timing belt for the car. Finances are tight and I currently have no loan payments on the car. Should I pay the $1400 for the timing belt or trade in the car? What other options might I have? thank you in advance for your suggestions! :(
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Where did you get that quote for the timing belt? If it's at the dealer then perhaps finding a good independent specialist in your area could save you about $600. I have heard from other forums that the price for this job at a good independent with quality parts should be about $800.

    Others have found the parts on-line and have paid about $350 for labor to do the job.

    Perhaps one of these options would work and keep you going for a while longer?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Find a good independent European mechanic, I'm thinking that you should be able to have the timing belt done for well under $1,000 by going that route. The other option is to do it yourself. True there's probably lots of detail work (hoses, belts, coolant...) in doing a job like that, but even with the tools that you'd need to buy you should be able to do the job for well under $500.

    Best Regards,
  • anars,
    Take a look at your trunk light. The switch that closes and turns it off maybe faulty. I had this happen on my old BMW 745i

    D :)
  • my 97 A4 front right wheel makes this knocking sound everytime i hit a bump or pot hole, i was told it was the ball joint so i replaced both upper and lower control arms and it still makes the noise, someone else said it may be the shocks are loose somewhere, no one can give me a 100% diagnosis of the problem though. Has anybody had a similar problem,any suggestions, pls help!!!
  • richn2richn2 Posts: 44
    Daughters front right side "parking" lights assembly and socket was stolen. Brought an after market front headlight assembly but it did not come with the 'socket". Trying to find out a part name / number for the socket so I can try to order one online but I am unable to locate any information on this part.
    Tried locating info on the net, even paid to join on-line manuals but no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  • I have a 2000 A4 2.8 quattro manual trans. I am running at 4000 in 5th gear going 60 miles per hour. I have just had my instrument cluster fixed. The dealership says the new tach is working correctly but the car does not sound like it is running at 4000 rpms. If anybody has this same car and transmission, does your car run like this? My cluster was not working for about 6 months before I got it fixed. I don't remember how the rpm's to mph used to run, but this seems high. If i were to go 100 mph I will be hitting the 6500 rpm redline. This just does not seem right.
  • A follow up to my previous message. I did have my Audi A4 towed to the Chicago dealer (Fletcher Jones). They partially tore down the engine and said it was oil sludge. I produced copies of the oil changes per the manual and they spent a few days cleaning and removinig the sludge and replacing some parts an it now runs as good as new. It was all covered by the extended warranty and my only cost was the towing and the inconvenience of no car for a week. My experience, I would say, was very positive and Audi did not give me any problems.
  • I have a Audi A4 1.6 I find sometimes when I am driving it will go out of gear for a few seconds and the slip back in.
    Can any body help me.

  • From a fellow A4 owner I hope this helps and that the cheapest solution is the right one. For a draining battery first consider that the trunk light switch might be broken. remove ALL bulbs from their fixtures. wait as many days as it would normally take to drain battery. If the battery is still draining, it likely the vacuum pump that controls the door locks or the electronic control unit for the lock/alarm/motion sensor system is malfunctioning. I had the same problem and it turned out to be the vacuum pump was short circuiting and draining the battery overnight. good luck.
  • Although I can offer no solution to your car problems, I just recently purchased a 6 spd a4 and am encountering the same exact problems that you describe. Although my clutch pedal also happen to get suck when I went to shift into neutral, which I had to pry out and since then have been experiencing a vibrating clutch pedal and extremely hard shifting from gear to gear. Dealership seems to offer little help with diagnosing the problem besides a worn clutch, which I somewhat am doubtful it is worn. Did you ever receive any responses from your post or maybe have some useful information on the problem. I would greatly appreciate any help you might be able to offer as I can not find anyone else in any forum or consumer reviews concerning a problem even similar to ours. Thanks for your time, looking forward to hearing for you.
  • Hi, I have a 2005.5 audi a4 2.0t all wheel drive and whenever I fill up the gas tank I have to hold the pump down because the gas tank stops accepting the gas as if it is full. Does anybody have any suggestions? I brought it to my dealer today and they said that there were no probs with it, but when i filled it up...IT HAPPENED AGAIN!

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    Hi gang, I posted this on Audi reliabilty but I also wanted to share with you guys on this forum.

    This past Saturday I went to my dealer to clear a check engine light on my 2005 A4, Quattro 1.8L (5 times already yeeepeeeeey, I think that by now, I am an expert in clearing the "code"). Since I was the last car they service that day, I got to talk to the mechanics for quite a while and they shared with me something that I don't know if some of you guys have hear before. He indicated that the 3.0 and the 3.2 (06 and 07) are virtually trouble free or at least have far less problems than the 1.8 or 2.0. He went as far as to tell me that he would have bought a used 3.0/3.2 than a new 1.8 (at the time I had bought mine in 05) or a 2.0.

    Have any of you heard this before? and for those of you that are 3.0 or 3.2 owners, have you have a good experience with your car aside from the regular maintance?

    R :confuse:
  • That is identical to my issue, except i had 71k on my car, and it is an 03 1.8T A4, i was told by a mechanic that worked on a Sunday that it would break down entirely if I kept driving, I had to have it towed 2 hrs back home since it was Sunday...they replaced my engine, but stuck me with a $400 tow
  • rwolffrwolff Posts: 19
    I'm afraid to tell you that the turbo (1.8 or 2.0) has a problem with the oil sludging, meaning it stays in the oil pan and creates a situation where the engine siezes and you have to get a new engine. It happened to me on the last and only turbo I will ever get. I now have a used 2000 2.8 and it is a much better car than the turbo. Definitely no problem with the oil. Only thing I can tell you is to change the oil more frequently, not what Audi tells you. good luck
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    "...the 3.0 and the 3.2 (06 and 07) are virtually trouble free."

    This is why my next Audi will be the A5.
    I've been wanting a coupe anyway, ever since I sold that Urq.
    The A5 is also only available with AWD!! :)
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    Thanks rwolff for your response. I thought the the 2.8, the 3.0 and the 3.2 were turbo? I guess I have not pay close attention to the specs of those cars. And yes, I have heard horror stories about the oil sludge and in digging deeper in the forums, I do see that the 1.8 (in my case) is the one with far more problems than the 3.0 or 3.2, thus those mechanics were probably saying something that made sense.

    As I mentioned on my other post, I went over my allowed mileages for my lease and even though my lease ends on april next year, I decided not to drive it. The question now is, would the car act weird if I don't drive it as often. I have not moved the car for almost a month. I do turn the engine on and let it idle for a couple of minutes every weekend. Call me paranoid, but the last thing I need is for the engine or transmition to go and then I'd be stuck with a huge bill.

    I still want to hear from those 3.0 and 3.2 owners and their experiences.
  • I just got my first Audi, a 2006 A4 with only 14000 miles last week and filled her up today with regular gas. I drove for 3 miles, parked, and when I restarted the engine it was shuddering/knocking like crazy. The check engine light was flashing as I drove about 400 yards, then it stopped (and the shuddering stopped) but the engine light stayed on (and is still on, 10 miles later). Question is: can putting in 87 octane fuel really be the cause of this? Do I now need to go to the Audi dealer to get the check engine light turned off?
    Other than this, I absolutely love driving this vehicle!
  • I have read a fair amount of negative comments about these cars, but most relate to older models. What problems have you had with 2006-08 models? Is the 2.0 better or worse than the 6 cylinder? I would be replacing a 2001 Saab convertible. That car has been good, albeit with a few more problems than I would have liked -- but nothing like the horror stories some have related about the A4. I need a reliable daily driver convertible with enough trunk room for golf clubs, beach stuff, etc. The A4 appears to be one of the best available for my space requirements, but I believe a modern car should easily go to 100K miles with little or no unscheduled maintenance. Can I expect that a new Audi to do that? Are there issues specific to the convertible?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    The car calls for 91 at the least and it will run on regular but at reduced performance and mileage. Any savings realized by using the lesser octane is lost in reduced mileage so your not really saving anything.

    Assuming the car is now running well and rough idle is gone you can expect that engine light to go off after a few start/stop cycles. If not then you need to pull the codes.

    I recommend that you use the gas this vehicle calls for to realize the full potential of that engine. it will has knock sensors to compensate for lower grade gas but it's really a false economy as I have said above.
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