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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • I am almost certain that your issue is a bad coil pack or bad spark plugs (more likely the coil pack with audi's or vw's)....they actually recalled all those from 2001-2007 b/c they knew that they had an issue. Parts should cost you about $125-$150 for all (1 per cylinder)

    simplt take off the plastic cover (3 plastic screvs that hold it on)...this will oncover the coil pack.....use an allen wrench to unbolt the 8 totsl bolts (2per), unplug....and replace with new ones, plug new ones in, bolt back in, put plastic cover back on, start off into the sunset
  • is it still peeping?
  • slavieslavie Posts: 1
    My car got rear-ended and I took it for repair at the Progressive shop. The car has 68k miles (bought new and all scheduled maintenance done at the dealership) and was in drivable condition, no difference in handling whatsoever. The clutch was performing flawlessly as always. Today I got a call from Progressive that while they were driving the car from the body shop to their concierge center, the clutch suddenly failed and they towed it to Sunset Audi (Portland, OR) - $2200 for replacement. Dealer claimed failure was not due to the accident, so Progressive wants me to foot the bill. Hence my question: is it normal for A4 Quattros to have sudden clutch failure? Or should I suspect that somebody used my car as a racing tool.

    Thanks in advance
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    As the car was driveable prior to and up until the accident and the accident was to the rear of the vehicle, it is highly unlikely that the damage occurred from the accident.

    However, you left you vehicle in the custody of a third party (agent), ie: the repair shop, who was going to deliver it to the insurance concierge center. The vehicle repair shop has an obligation to provide for the guardianship of the vehicle while in its possession. In most cases, the the repair shop will state in their repair agreement that they are not liable for damages caused to the vehicle while in its custody except for cases of gross negligence. Unfortunately, gross negligence is hard to prove unless you or another party have witnessed what you believe to be gross negligence on the part of the person who was driving your vehicle. As you were not present during the failure of the clutch, you will have a tough fight on your hands.

    However, there is possibly some hope. If memory serves me correctly, your Audi is capable of storing certain operating, engine and vehicle dynamic information in its computer memory (this is comparable to an aircraft "black box"). If this information is still in the memory, your dealership should be able to extract the information, which will serve to provide some data to see if the car was used as a "racing tool" or any other hot-dogging prior to clutch failure.

    I would get with the dealership to see if they can extract the information and if so that could prove to be your tool to pursue the claim of gross negligence on the part of the agent and hence hold his feet to the fire by leveraging your insurance carrier that they are dealing with a firm that is not handling customers cars in a prudent, safe fashion.

    Good luck and let us know how you make out.

  • babyvanbabyvan Posts: 1
    I have an Audi 1999 2.8L .It has 107000 miles on it.
    2 months ago I was driving and the car died on me.However, the car started immediately after turning on my ignition. Now, the situation has gotten worse. These days it won't start at all. Sometime it would start after so many attempts. I have had two different shops look at it. They both have diagnosed different fault. The first shop says it's the electrical part of my ignition switch. They say i need to change it and have the audi dealership reprogram the switch. The second shops says my ECM is bad. They also want me to change it and have the Audi dealership program the new ECM with my vin number. The guy in the first shop has worked with an audi dealership for several years.

    Please guys I need your help. I am trying to avoid a visit to the audi dealership. The last time I went there they took all my money but couldnt solve my electrical issues (my power lock and power windows just stopped working all at the same time)

    Diagnostics 1.0..ran diagnostics and 4 codes came up
    16988:control Module Malfunction
    17967:Idle speed control thrust positive adaptation Malfunction
    18010:Voltage Supply Terminal 30 Voltage to Low
    18032: Request for warning light on active.

    Thank you so much!!
  • just purchased a 2005.5 3.2 a4. Seems great so far. couple of things. I was given a manual and maintenance guide for a 2005, it has no info on the 2005.5. I can't tell capacities or maintenance schedule from these docs. Can anyone lead me in the right direction for this basic info? I don't even know what grade motor oil to use. Want to change air/pollen filters, and clean snow screen, but I don't know where the snow screen or pollen filter is. bought k&n for air filter, but cant get air box lid off it, apparently without removing the rail on the valve cover for the coil packs. And how do I unclip these coil packs?!?!? I want to change plugs (I'm at 50k miles) but can't figure out pack clips and don't want to break them. Thanks for help and sorrow for multiple questions, thanks to all with the knowledge that are willing to take the time to share with us newbies...
  • fenixdfenixd Posts: 1

    I am thinking of buying 2002 A4 1.8 T Quattro from a colleague. It has 73500 miles on it automatic transmission.
    Recent work done as per him was
    Ignition coils replaced
    Coolant flange replacement

    I read issues and quiet costly ones with CVT 2002 version specifically.
    Are there any serious issues with this and should I stay away from this model.

    I currently have Golf GL and wanted to upgrade to GTI or A4.

    Please suggest based on you experiences.

  • nwalkleynwalkley Posts: 9
    I can't speak for 2002 models, but I am planning on selling my 2005 as soon as I get it out of the shop - there already one week awaiting shipment of new ignition cylinder that needs replacing as car will not start. This is second week + of car in shop in 2010. I am planning on selling it soon and would not advise anyone to by an Audi unless it was certified pre-owned by a dealer, or without buying an extended warranty - car is great to drive but maintenance is becoming expensive and inconvenient.
  • I have a '97 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 that won't start. When you turn the key absolutely NOTHING happens.
    Here's what lead to the issue: I started the car and heard a "click" noise that was unusual. While driving everything electrical stopped working - the directionals, lights, air blower (which showed on the console that it turned on, but no air came out, and then it shut itself off). When I arrived at my destination, the key wouldn't come out of the ignition. I was able to start the car back up, with no problem, and then drove home. I forced the key out of the ignition and all the electrical came back on, but now the car won't start up. The ignition switch has been replaced and we've tried bypassing the lock cylinder but it still won't start. I replaced the ECU yesterday and again, nothing. We've checked the security system and there were no issues there either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • jebtdijebtdi Posts: 5
    My 2001 A4 TDi 6sp manual Quattro wagon ran like a dream, and required very little in the way of maintenance, expensive or otherwise for almost 10 years.
    I'd say look at the price, so you can get out of it in a good way if problems develop.
    Audi experiences seem to be extremely polarized – very very good or terrible, and little in-between.
    If it's been good for him, jump in; if not, forget about it, and get a new Golf TDi, a Passat TDi, or a Skoda Octavia TDi (all lovely).
  • jaseyjasey Posts: 1

    My 1996 Audi A4 does not start up. The gauge lights turn on but it doesn't click or anything. The gas light stays on after attempting to start. It takes push starting this thing to get it going. When it has been started it stays on for a while at stop signs but every once in a while cutting off on it's own requiring a push start.

    The gas was low but not low enough to not be able to start because of low fuel but I took it to the gas station anyway to put some in there. Now it's at a quarter tank. Left the engine going since I didn't have anyone to push start the thing. On the way back home it was fine. Until right infront of the neighbor's house it cut off by itself. It took maybe 4 minutes to get there. Was able to get it going again but this time it would not idle for longer than about 10 seconds. Do you have any ideal of what the problem is, how much it may cost, & whether or not me leaving the engine on during fueling caused the vehicle to no longer idle?
  • shaned7shaned7 Posts: 1
    I have an 1996 audi a4 quattro 2.8L. It takes me about 10 trys of starting the engine for it to finnaly start. It almost does everytime but it seems to be about 10 times before it actually does. After its started and running for about 5 minutes you can shut it off and easily restart it the first time when its warmed up. When im trying to start it and i give it gas it seems to bog out. Can someone please give me an idea of what this might be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd guess a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have the fuel pressure tested in the fuel rail when the engine is cold and has been sitting overnight (I guess a shop will have to do this unless you have the gauge and the T-fittings).

    If the regulator is bad, the fuel pressure bleeds off overnight, requiring the fuel pump to re-pressurize the entire fuel system from the gas tank forward.
  • dawal1224dawal1224 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 A4 . after checking oil I added what may have been too much (not sure) and then drove a couple of miles before engine light began to blink and car began to run sluggishly especially in acceleration. Had someone check it out that believes that it is the catalytic converter. Could over fill of oil hurt CC? If so, is it, how important is it to get a CC from dealer or would it be ok to get the parts online and have someone install it. It seems that the quotes from the dealership are far more expensive then what Icould get a new CC online and have it installed. Advice please!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Why aren't you sure how much oil you added?

    To knock out a CC, you'd have to add a mighty good amount, to say nothing of dealing with huge clouds of smoke.

    There's no reason why the CC cannot be decisively tested, without any guessing.
  • nwalkleynwalkley Posts: 9
    Today is the day I say goodby to my 2005 Audi A4 - which I do love to drive - but it has spent a total of 4 weeks in the shop in the last 5 months, so I have had it. Turning to BMW for the first time and hoping it will be a good and longer lasting experience.
  • barryendbarryend Posts: 121
    Wife has 2007 A4 3.2. I have 2009 A4 2.0 sports package. No trouble with either. Audi has improved quality and reliability surpassing BMW. Read blogs on audiworld or audizine.

    B8 A4 is much roomier and better trunk than BMW 3 series. Better looking too in P+ level with LEDs IMHO.
  • patso21patso21 Posts: 1
    I have recently discovered a hollow knocking noise from the front right area of my 2004 A4 (non-Quattro). It seems to happen most under breaking and slightly during acceleration, any time there is a significant shifting of weight forward or back.

    I dont think it's my shock as it doesnt do it over every bump. Im guessing it might be a CV boot issue or something. Any suggestions or thoughts?

  • audiman5audiman5 Posts: 8
    Maybe caused by motor mounts.
  • olakolak Posts: 1
    Yes there is a place. It's called HB Motorwerks, and it's in Chesapeake. I've been there to fix my power window, do oil change, spark plugs. They specialize in Audi and VW.
    Their address:
    HB Motorwerks
    936 Professional Place
    Building A, Suite 3
    Chesapeake, VA 23320
    (757) 965-7146

    Good luck!
  • hey im having the exact same issues i was wondering if u figured out the problem.
    And how much did u spend to get it fixed..
    [email protected]

    i hope u can help me out
  • richb1richb1 Posts: 9
    2003 A4 with 90,000 miles. At random times, I get a short (about 1 second) squeal from my engine...always when I let up on the clutch and start on a slight incline in 1st gear. Usually happens in the first 10 minutes of first driving the car. It happens so infrequently that I had to actually tape the noise on a portable tape recorder to play it for my mechanic. He's clueless as to what it could be and wasn't able to hear it when he kept the car overnight. Recently had the timing belt replaced. Another mechanic suggested that it sounds like a worn bearing somewhere in the engine but difficult to know for sure since it happens so rarely. One mechanic suggested a throw out bearing in the clutch which was replaced at54,000 miles. Any help would be appreciated.
  • 99a4q99a4q Posts: 2
    First Post- Any help would be appreciated.

    My A4 recently started acting up when pulling into traffic. At around 2K RPM's the car stutters and is sluggish, but once moving seems OK. To pull into traffic, I need to get RPM's much higher in order to ensure performance. Ironically at the same time the hesitation began occuring, the Air Conditioning would fade out when sitting in traffic and would only condition the air once moving. There is a slight "Catch" I can fill before the air begins to run cool. (not sure if there is a belt that operates the AC or not and unsure if the issues are related)

  • lp730lp730 Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2003 A4 Quattro 3 liter. I don't seem to get the mileage posted. I seem to get about 50-60 miles less in the city. I purchased the car from Dar Cars dealership about 1 month ago.
  • weeksyweeksy Posts: 1
    My car has started shuddering when it is changing gear, sometimes the engine management light flashes and sometimes it doesn't. The garage said it was the sensors and has changed them and nothing else has shown up on their computer. It has been in the garage twice now for this problem and I have just got it back again and is now doing the same thing. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    In order to properly diagnose that problem you need to pull the codes with a code reader. Without that information it's almost impossible to determine what the problem is. It could be any number of things from coil packs, spark plugs, MAF sensor or a number of other items causing the engine to mis-fire.
  • leonglleongl Posts: 2
    Hi, all

    My 06 A4 2.0T starts to jerk/shudders when I change the gear. It feels like step on brake and the car was kicking back. The problem is most noticeable when moving from 4th gear to the 3rd gear and minor when moving from 4th to 5th, it can also be felt when move the gear from parking to reverse position even when the car is stopped.

    I suspect it is a transmission problem, any comments or thoughts? (no warning light is on so far). How much does it cost to fix the problem? Also, my car is close to 54k miles, and I plan to take the car to Audi service center to do the maintenance, so will 54k maintenance solve the problem automatically?
  • roxproxp Posts: 4
    My 09 TT is now having transmission problems. The part is on backorder so it is like take ur car back, drive it (jerking when switching gears) make ur car payments, and we will call you when the part arrives from Germany. They did the same thing with my A4 was returned on the Lemon Law.
  • gpb59gpb59 Posts: 82
    Different shops are giving me different answers. One tells me you have to use Mobil 1,
    another says you don't need synthetic, one says you can use 5-30 or 5-40. What do most people use and if you use synthetic how long between changes? Also I live in Las vegas where it's pretty hot
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    You need an approved oil that has the proper VW 502 spec. Mobil 1 European Car Formula meets that spec and there's also a Castrol version that's generally available. They are both synthetic, and I would NOT use that person who told you that you do not need synthetic for any work. Obviously they are very ill informed on the needs of your Audi.
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