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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair



  • jwarejware Posts: 1
    I just spoke with a service rep at the toyota dealer here in ft. wayne. He recommended against cleaning it. He said the "check engine" light would probably go on again "soon." Does anyone have any experience with having the AF sensor cleaned vs replaced (he's quoting me $322 for replacement)?
  • I have a 2005 highlander and just started hearing a clunking noise in the steering column. You mentioned that there is a fix for this. Could you pass along the details?

  • would you have the details of the TSB, maybe the TSB number?

  • gasman1gasman1 Posts: 321
    TSB ST001-06, dated February 16, 2006
  • I have '04 HL V6 2WD. It makes a high pitched engine noise, which starts at 70 mph, becomes worst at around 75 mph and goes away at around 80 mph. If I take the foot off the gas pedal at these speeds, it completely goes away, but comes back as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal.
    Anyone know whats wrong with it?
  • phrosutphrosut Posts: 122
    I am somewhat memory-impaired but it seems like the extended warranty was maybe $1000 plus a couple of hundred more for the "money back if not used" part.

    I found the warranty online and then my dealer matched the price. I didn't buy the extended warranty until I had about 30,000 miles on the car and was sure I'd be keeping it.

  • Hi, there. Same prob. here. I have a 2005 model Highlander and have notice this clunking when negotiating bends on roads. I'll definitely have it checked out at my next maintenance. It's still under warrantee.
    You may wish to send me an e-mail so we can keep each other informed of the development.
  • matthewmatthew Posts: 11
    i am taking it in for service on 1/11. I will keep you posted. BTW, I asked the service mgr if he has seen this before, he said yes, they replace the steering column and it is not a safety issue.
  • edhedh Posts: 246
    of the clunking is the shaft btw the column and the rack - they replaced that on mine
  • I have a 2002 Highlander. As I was driving down the highway, my oil light began to blink on and off. I added a quart of oil when I got home. 3 days later, oil light and check engine light come on at same time. Also, knocking noise coming from engine. Help!! Any thoughts before I take it in? :sick:
  • Hello,
    What did you do to fix the rear seat clicking noises? I have a 2001 and I haven't been able to determine where the noises are coming from and they're quite irritating...
    I hope you get this message, as I see your original post was 4 years ago...
    Thank you
  • kenabrkenabr Posts: 9
    I have a 2002 V6 AWD with 102,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on and we took it to the dealer the same day. The service department says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause? They want to change my spark plugs($240) clean the ejectors, and of course charge me ($130)for the diagnostic for a total of about $475. I feel I'm getting ripped. How could spark plugs or ejectors give me a check engine light? Should I disconnect the battery myself to clear the light which is what I expect they will do? I probably do need plugs after 102k but do ejectors get dirty with modern gasoline additives to keep them clean?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and DRIVE away from that dealer, RAPIDLY!
  • gencongencon Posts: 5
    Another dealer changed front driver side bearing/house( for
    $500 under warranty). Now the siren noise comes down a bit, but still there. May be the passenger side should also fixed. Very upset for such noise to my new car. I should do more test drive upon buying
  • Don't know where to post my question so I'm tagging on here. I recently purchased (CARMAX) a 2005 4WD Highlander. MX book indicates certain service requirements every 5,000 miles, including oil change. Every vehicle I owned previously, oil changes were to be done at 3,000 miles. Do you folks use the 5,000 mile rule? Thanks
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    You can't go wrong following the owners manual. 5000 miles is sufficient with todays oils. Many cars have been stretched to 7,500 and even 10,000 for Jaguar and BMW and others. If you continue to do it at 3,000 you are a service depts. delight and you are wasting resources.
  • My Grand Marquis requires oil changes at 5000 miles which I do. My VW Rabbit required oil changes at 7500 miles which I did until it died at 289,000 miles.
  • toyotagaltoyotagal Posts: 215
    A factor that also plays in to oil changes is time, I am told. With an oil change necessary at 6 months even if you don't have 5k etc. on the vehicle during that 6 months. Is that everyone's understanding? i.e. an oil change although the mileage requirement has not been reached due to limited driving.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    Yes, you are correct. In fact I am about to have mine changed because of the 6 months time factor and I have only driven 4200 since the last change.
  • That's the advice I read last week in a newspaper car column. Change at 5,000 if you drive that much. Otherwise at least every 6 months. The service department at my dealer has been recommending the 5,000 interval for several years.

    My last oil change was done by an independent drive-in place. They still recommend 3,000 but that's just an attempt to drum up business. Since they charge more than the dealer and didn't do everything they said they did (like check tire pressure), I'm going to plan ahead a bit better next time and have the dealer do it.
  • garywigarywi Posts: 54
    For all you 5 speed V6-2WD owners: do you feel you have to fight to slow down your Highlander? On my Corolla, when I take my foot off the gas, the car goes to a neutral state and slowly decelerates. When I take my foot off the gas in the Highlander, it does not slow down easily. I rented a Hundia Sonata SUV on my last trip. It was a V6. It was soooo much easier to drive than my expensive Highlander. I was not always fighting to slow the thing down.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Late in the last century most manufacturers of FWD or front torque biased AWd vehicles adopted a new shift pattern/schedule for their automatic transaxles. The new shift sequence will ALWAYS upshift the transaxle upon a FULL lift-throttle event in order to reduce the potential for loss of directional control due to engine compression braking and/or having it interfere with the ability of the anti-lock system to fully release ALL braking effects.

    With a manual shift transaxle the driver can always depress the clutch pedal if a downshift results in too much engine compression braking for roadbed conditions. But with an automatic the only option is to slip the gear shift into neutral and then ...wait... for the transaxle to follow.

    Some of the newer owners manuals spell out the fact that NO engine compression braking will be available absent the driver manually downshifting the automatic transaxle and not even then unless the cruise control is off.
  • matthewmatthew Posts: 11
    As promised I am posting my experience at the dealer yesterday. I left the car with them, they called me a couple of hours later to say that they could not find anything wrong (big surprise!). I told them I would go on a drive with the mechanic when I come to pick the car up. Sure enough he heard the sound with a minute or two of driving. They now ordered a new steering column and will install it next week.
  • toyotagaltoyotagal Posts: 215
    Way to go, Matthew! You know what they say about the squeeky wheel. And we do have to "squeek" from time to time to get someone to pay attention to our concerns.

    I just love it when the Dealership often reports back to me that they heard it to but that is just "normal" for that vehicle..................ROFLOL
  • Hello, 2005 Highlander owner here. The car has been great for two years, 22,000 miles (only had that acceleration issue once, and to be honest it probably saved me since I should not have been accelerating at that point!)

    Question on the rear wiper. I had the dealer replace all blades last year as part of regular service and was never really happy with the quality - streaky and squeaky. I just replaced the front driver / passenger with Bosch Excel, and they work great - but I'm stuck on the rear. Can the whole blade body be replaced like the front, or is it just an insert like the older cars I used to have. Is there any way to pull the rear wiper more than an inch from the glass? (I can't imagine why it was designed that way) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    This is for a Rav4 but I imagine it will apply to the Highlander as well. Probably more info than you want to know:

    There is a plastic cap you remove in order to raise the blade higher.
  • beeks5beeks5 Posts: 2
    I have a '04 HL V6 2WD. It makes a high pitched engine noise, which starts at 70 mph, becomes worst at around 75 mph and goes away at around 80 mph. If I take the foot off the gas pedal at these speeds, it completely goes away, but comes back as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal.
    Anyone know whats wrong with it?
    Please HELP!!!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Typical description of gearbox or diff'l problem, most likely diff'l.
  • garywigarywi Posts: 54
    ">Anyone have a problem with the distance between the gas pedal and brake pedal? I measured and it's over 4 inches. My Corolla it's 2.5 inches. I am having some custom alum. pedal covers made to bring the brake pedal over to the right.
  • tomdtomd Posts: 87

    Did you ever find the cause of the driveline vibration that you were getting between 1800 and 2000 RPM? I am also getting it but I have no confidence that if I tell the dealer that they will even acknowledge it.
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