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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    edited September 2013
    Brian, i also promise to stop talking about this with this post. Your experience here helps newbies but just like you, i am a car buying vet. I buy for myself and repeatedly help friends score great deals. Doc fees always come in when talking OTD not when comparing national below invoice pricing. Remember, this conversation started when someone mentioned how much below invoice they were getting NOT OTD pricing. You have your method and i have mine. Newbies can benefit from both. The most important thing is to score the lowest possible OTD price regardless of any fees dealers try to rape us for.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,890
    How do you compensate a high doc fee charge when you already agreed on a price with a dealer.

    Or... are you saying you take the dealerships doc fee into consideration making your best out the door price with dealerships?. in this case your putting the whole deal together with a certain target price in mind.

    Please explain: if doc fee's come into play with otd pricing.. How are you countering them. Dealers wont remove charge..

    I just want to understand how you buy vehicles.. and how your countering doc charges.......................Thanks

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • cinch1cinch1 Posts: 2
    edited September 2013
    Can anyone tell me how much a 2013 honda accord ex has depreciated since it was driven off the lot and returned?? I'm trying to do all my research so I get the best deal. And will the destination charge still apply on a returned newer car?? Please advise if you know as soon as you can. It would be much appreciated.
  • Been lurking this forum while considering an Accord purchase. Learning much from many contributors, including some with differing approaches - Brian, IsellHondas, and others.

    Thanks to all who share their experiences/insights here.

    Wanted to weigh in with 1st post to say discussions from Brian and some others about various dealer fees are helpful & relevant.

    Part of the forum's title is Prices Paid, so that doesn't seem limited only to invoice+destination as fxguy seems to be implying. Dealer fees for documentation, processing, "preparation", etc. that can vary among dealers or states are a component of total prices buyers have to pay out-the-door.

    If anybody feels it confuses anything, I suppose they're free to disregard posts that mention fees as part of OTD prices. But I share Brian's view that it's as relevant as any other money within a deal.

    (Hopefully I haven't misinterpreted fxguy's viewpoint. Looked to me as though he was suggesting that others shouldn't discuss in here a factor I think is useful for people who want to learn about it and keep it in mind.)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,675
    Driven off the lot and "returned"?

    You need to be more clear. Was the car ever registered to an owner? Did the deal immediately fall apart and got reversed?

    If the deal simply unwound, it's like it never happened. You WILL pay the destination charge because the first "buyer" never did.

    If the car was registered, then it's sold to you as a USED car and you won't pay the destination fee.

    How many miles are on the car?

    Now, if you are thinking you are going to somehow get some kind of a killer, ridiculous price on this slightly used car, I can tell you this won't happen.

    We used to discount manager's demos with less than 5000 miles. These were sold as new. I can tell you, we never lost money on them nor did we on any other new car we sold.

    It's all perception. Someone else will snap up that car thinking that they took advantage of someone else's misfortune.
  • Thanks for the info. It was returned by the previous owner because they decided to upgrade. It has about 4,000 miles on it and I think it's been on the dealership for about a month now. I'm only approved for a certain amount so I suppose it's still out of my range. I appreciate the feedback.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 655
    Ok fx - gotta put in my final .02. I was out of pocket for a few hours and gave this some thought. Here's my take - however you account for the numbers, as long as you get to your ultimate target, that is what counts. I see your point that if the doc fee is locked in concrete, then it doesn't really accomplish anything to mingle it with the basic below invoice target you are shooting for. The doc fee doesn't affect us much here in CA because it is capped at 80 bucks and pretty much all the dealers charge the 80 so it becomes a non issue when getting quotes. I know Brian advocates negotiating the selling price down to reduce or eliminate the impact of an out of line doc fee that a dealer can't or won't budge on - that seems like a good strategy. I will say this, and this is just me, if the doc fee is not locked in concrete, and is therefore negotiable, I would include it as part of my quote request to dealers (give me your price including dest and your doc fee). That way I have a common denominator to compare. I understand that others prefer to do it differently and that's fine - like I said - as long as the end result is your best price - that's what counts.

    Ok guys - thanks for listening.

    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 655
    Driver - this is my line of thinking also. I think fx is saying that because doc fees vary by location, and most are not negotiable, we should include them with the other mandated fees such as tax, title and license (TTL) to arrive at the out the door price. I like Brian's approach of attempting to get the dealer to adjust selling price to offset the doc fee as much as possible. I think this is gonna be one of those things that boils down to personal preference. I agree with you that it is a pricing component that needs to be considered - I'm sure there are situations where the doc fee is negotiable - and if it's not - revert to Brian's method and try to compensate for it. I think that considering doc fees as one of those things that can't be changed and lumping them with the mandated fees is probably what the auto dealers would like to see happen.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • When I bought my last car in 2010, after negotiating the price of the car, the salesman could not clearly articulate to me what the doc fees were for. I told him I could "see" the car, I could "see" the tags on the car, I can "see" the title for the car, and I know taxes are a given ... show me the $399 worth of "documents" for which I am asked to pay this fee, and obviously he couldn't, rather he just said they have to charge it to each customer or it wouldn't be fair. I was a cash buyer for an Infiniti, so I told him to eat that fee or the price we negotiated would be reduced by that amount, otherwise I was walking away, and they did reduce the car price that extra amount.
  • Can I do better than 26899 on v6 coupe right now 2013.? No nav. Flex after . I want this car but think I can do better than this. Am I being unrealistic?
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 10,197
    As isellhondas alluded to, this sounds like a used car with 4K miles. Someone took a big depreciation hit by trarding in what essentially is a new car.

    I would think that would end up being a bargain compared to a new Honda, same model and options.

    Seeing doc fees mentioned quite a bit. NO STATE requires a dealership charge a doc fee. Yes, there are fees to register, license your vehicle and to get plates. But, filing the paperwork for those items is something the dealership chooses to charge for.

    Personally, I figure up my offer, including taxes, registration and license fees (varies by state and municipality, but easy enough to find) and make one offfer..."all in". I explain my offer to the dealer. If we get to the F&I office and they add in doc fees. I walk. My offers are literally..."ALL IN"!

    It's up to the dealer how they divy up my offer into their different fee and pricing categoires. I don't really care how they do it, as long as the final, all in number is equal to my offer.
    2018 Acura TLX SH AWD ASpec
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 655
    Now that's what I'm talking about (and I'm sure what Brian is saying). Way to go Jennifer. I thought you said you were a rookie (ha ha).

    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 655
    Totally agree with everything you said.

    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • Thats a rather great deal! I would try to get 26,500, are you eligible for college or military discount? When I bought mine a few days ago (Sport Sedan) I had them throw in free/discounted accessories and a really great discount on the extended warranty 7yrs/100,000 if you plan to keep if forever like I am. Haha
    Are you in Souhtern California by any chance?
  • how much did they charged you for extended warranty? I am looking for Sport model in southern CA
  • Here is my buying experience for my new 2013 Honda Accord Sport. I purchased my vehicle on Labor Day and did research for about 2 months on the message board. What I found out is that buying at the end of the month did make a difference.

    We tried to buy the Accord at the dealer closest to my home. The dealer had a ton of Accords available and I made it clear that I was educated on the current prices of the Accord and my trade-in. I told them if you sell me the car for my numbers provided I'll buy on the spot. The dealer worked up the paper work and wanted me to pay $27,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. I told them that they were $3,000 over what I was willing to pay and what people were getting on the message boards. They didn't care and let me walk out without even counter offering. I've never had this happen before and I was upfront and polite with them.

    I then emailed two other dealers and both those dealers were willing to work with me on the price. I told them they had to be at $24,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. Both dealers would do the deal and I got my car on Labor Day. I asked the dealer who sold me the car why the other dealer would not sell me the car at this price. He stated that his dealership needed to sell 20 cars before the end of the month and the other dealer probably sold all the cars they needed to sell already. He stated that why sell you the car when someone else would be willing to buy it for more. He also told me that walking into a dealer and not dealing with the internet sales manager makes a big difference in negotiating.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 655
    Congrats on your new accord. Could you explain in more detail how not working with the Internet Manager makes a big difference? Your statement in somewhat general and could have a number of different interpretations.

    Thanks, Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gotojanoo,

    Are you able to send me a private message? I can text you all the info you need and where to buy. I can also call 2 individuals from Palmdale and Van Nuys to hook it up.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,675
    Doc fees never existed in most areas until the "Smart Shoppers" started squeezing every last nickel out of the deals.

    The stores HAVE to make a profit, like ANY retail establishment and this is why they do this.

    No free lunch out there.
  • The dealer I bought my Accord from, the Internet sales people are not actual employees of the dealership. They are like contractors or independent sales people that are allowed to make different deals than the sales guy that work at the dealer. He said even at his dealership that I probably would not of gotten that same deal I did if I had walked up. He is able to make a better deals than the sales guys. I don't know if that is the same at all dealerships because the one that let me walk away was not willing to deal online either. I decided to go to the showroom after making little progress online with them but outcome didn't change.

    I would email all the dealers in your area because they all operate differently and have different standards. The St Louis area had 7 dealerships and the ones willing to deal were located in a real wealthy area and a lower income area. The biggest dealers that are located in the middle class areas were not in a hurry to sell.
  • I stopped by Honda of New Rochelle this was the lease offer given to me:

    2013 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L

    $300 per month, 2075 (includes 1st month) due at signing plus DMV fees. I will be checking other places.

    Car valued at 25, 500
  • MichaellMichaell ColoradoPosts: 61,791
    As I understand it, some states cap doc or dealer fees (CA and NY for example). Others don't - I live in CO and I've seen fees as high as $699.

    Your mileage may vary - but, it's the overall deal we need to focus on, not just one line item.

    Different points of view are always welcome, but let's not monopolize the discussion.

    Seems to me that good prices are out there for both 2013 & 2014 Accords based on recent posts. Keep those stories coming!


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  • Hi, I'm new to this site. Hello and thank you for your help!

    I bought a new Ex-L 4 cylinder pearl white accord with leather (no navi) today....Not sure if I got a good deal?

    Honda dealership is a no haggle dealership, meaning a fixed price only. They had the pearl white sedan EX-L I've been wanting 'on sale' for 25,882.00 + 699.00 dealer fee.

    Did I do okay or not. I'm in Fl. Any thoughts. Thank you.
  • MSRP for that is $28.8k and invoice $26.4k, so in my opinion sounds like a great deal! =)
  • Geez, thank you so much because I didn't do any research first which is so unlike me. I bought my last Accord (V-6 with leather) in 2003 and remembered the final price was over 26,000.00

    It was such a dream to own I ONLY wanted another Accord.

    Thank you so much for saying I did okay! I know the 699.00 dealer price was a little high.

    The only 'extra' I bought was the black mat for the trunk. It just made sense to me.

    I put 11,000.00 down, and took the .9 36 month finance option. Seemed like a good idea.

    This dealership does NOT deal, so I wondered if I did okay! Thank you so much.
  • Sorry I just saw yr reply. Finally I pulled trigger for 2013 accord sport 23500 OTD. Is it good deal?
  • Haha it's ok! Matters is that you have one! =)
    What dealer did you buy from? Which color did you get? Congrats!

    Could've got for another $1,000.00 less but it's all good. Did you add extended warranty or any accessories/options?
  • gotojanoogotojanoo Posts: 9
    edited September 2013
    Grey color. Hardin , anaheim. I got 7 year 100k it good price? No accessory. Just security system.
  • By the way, you made my day. I have a new Accord in the garage, but honestly thank you for telling me I did okay on the price! Am so appreciative.
  • Ummmm yes!!! We almost got the same pricing. ;-)

    Any mods you plan to do in the near future?
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