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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Hi. I've been following all the great info in this forum, going back to the older posts to learn as much as I can, so thank you! This is my first time buying/negotiating a new car, so trying my best to follow the techniques posted by calling multiple dealers, starting 3rd week of month, with plan to close last few days of month, but not yet close to some of the numbers posted here (yea I'm a newbee). This is the best I got so far from three dealerships:

    2013 EX-L
    Long Island, NY Area
    Invoice $26,399
    Sale Price $25,475 (inc Dest)
    No Dealer proc, prep, or finance fee (0.9% APR - 36)
    +DMV $175-$275 (I think)
    +NYS tax

    From what I've read, looks like I should be able to get a 2013 EX-L for $25K without two much hassle? Two dealers have down down to $25,500 and have the exact model I claims they have 7 of them. I was told no flex cash available, but not sure if I believe that.

    Is $25K a good price if I get it..i.e. next time I talk to them state I'll close on that price? Or push for $25K them add ons like spash, molding, rubber mats, etc. Also have been following mistersc threads on the 2014.

    If anyone (mistersc?) has experience with any good Long Island dealers to work with would appreciate!

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 361

    At this time of the year, you should be getting at least $1500 below invoice for a 2013 Accord EX-L. I bought mine in MA nearly 3 weeks ago for $1400 below invoice plus $500 flex cash. Dealer stock is running low, so some dealers might not be prepared to budge on price.

    Try and find dealerships who have your car on their lot and flex cash available. If not, you might be better off looking at a 2014 model.

    Your focus should be to negotiate on the selling price of the car. It may not be the best move to also bring up dealer add-ons at this stage of the negotiating process. Do not forget to take into account dealer doc fees.

    If you have not already done so, read up previous posts on this forum on how to get the best deal. You can apply some of the advice I posted in this thread #31033,
  • Blue,

    Hi. Thanks for the quick reply...really appreciate your insight. I will act on the tips you mentioned in post 31033.

    I have talked to some dealers with only 2 or 3 2013 EX-L's in stock, so understand those aren't the places that I'll get the best price. For 2014's looks like a good price on a EX-L with dest/doc would be a few hundred under invoice, at least from the posts. So will think about that also.

    Will keep the forum updated.

  • I'm in Orlando and bought from Holler Honda. The five day return policy is TRUE. Call them and ask. This dealership has been around for dozens of years, and has many many dealerships.

    If you want me to break down the price I paid for everything I will.

    (Also, they gave me .9% financing, 36 months), I was prepared to pay cash, but the 3 year financing will only cost me 275.00 in total interest. (I put 11,000.00 down.)

    Let me know if you need me to break this down for you. Holler Honda in Orlando is a well known dealership. (This is my second time buying a new accord from them.)

    In addition to the matt that goes in the trunk, I paid 499.00 for laser UV window tinting. (Turned out exquisite.) They also have a 199.00 tint but it doesn't have the UV protection.

    I'm LOVING this car.

    Let me know if you want the line by line details of what I paid and I'll be happy to help.

    If you come to Orlando to buy, let me know and I'll give you the salespersons name we used. Really liked him, great guy.

    (With the mat and 500.00 tint the out the door price was under 30,000.00.

    Btw, if you don't believe me on the 5 day return policy, give Holler Honda a call!
  • By the way, as an addendum to my post above, I did NOT transfer my tag. Got a brand new tag that day, and they did all the 'work'. That adds to the cost.

    Detailed, full tank of gas, and a free coupon for my first oil change.
  • Steve,

    Could you please share or private message which dealers are giving $1500 below invoice? I am in the market to buy the same car and in the same area?

  • Henry,

    Hi. The lowest price I got so far for an 2013 EX-L in the LI area is $25.4, which is $1000 under. But still working at it, as I want to close this week.
    Have you contacted any dealers yet in the NYC/LI area? When are looking to buy?

  • Hi,
    I have a similar deal in FL on the 2014 EXL 4 cylinder black/black. This was the best deal out of 7 dealers:

    Sales Price $25,872.82
    Flex Cash -$500
    Sales Tax 7% 1,662.58
    Est Tag Transfer/State Fees 263.50
    Dealer Fee 898.00
    OTD Price $28,196.90
    Includes: Destination, mud guards, door edge guards, body side molding, trunk tray, wheel locks and pin striping. My dealer said he couldn't technically get flex cash on the 2014 but managed to get the $500.
  • Read my post on 9/23/14.
  • I was in a Florida dealer today and asked the question: "What is your dealer fee actually getting me?" The answer I got in the end was literally "Nothing. It is pure dealer profit." The dealer fees are crazy high in Florida but you just negotiate them off the base price.
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    I think the price should be lower on a 2013. By my math, you are at $27,822 before tax and title.

    I paid $27,849 on a 2014 same model before tax and title.
  • Do you know how much the leather actually cost you? Does anyone else know how cheap you can get the leather added and whether that is a good idea on a Sport model?
  • etienne, we don't doubt you that Holler has a return policy, but no dealer could stay in business if it allowed people to return their cars. Once it is registered to you, they would need to sell that car as used if you returned it and even a dealer with favorable pricing would be faced with returns because it is human nature to second guess any large purchase and there will even be some people who got a good deal returning the car.
    I took a look at their website and it says it's a return/exchange policy. That's a huge difference. You may have gotten your Accord for well under invoice but I assure you won't be able to just return it. You will need to "exchange" it for another car and you will be lucky if they make that second car available to your for only MSRP. You will have absolutely no bargaining power.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,602
    That's what I was thinking. No dealer in their right mind would have a 5 day RETURN policy.

    You hit the nail on the head huskerfan!

    A person having "Buyer's Remorse" can exchange it but they certainly won't be in a position of strength.

    " OK, you can exchange it for this car...this is the price!
  • plubarplubar Posts: 5
    edited September 2013
    Below is what I was quoted today in Minnesota. Seems a little high, however I am having a tough time getting any dealer under invoice. Thoughts?

    Sell Price 25,500
    Tax 1,677.5
    Registration 24
    Documentation 75
    Plates 345
    Title 39.5
    Flex -500
    OTD 27,161
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,821
    edited September 2013
    Your at 899 below invoice without flex included in this deal. Supply and demand is a factor. you have to decide if you want a 10 month old 2013 Accord at 1399 below invoice Or try to score a deal for a 2014 for invoice or a little below.
    You may get a few more dollars off that 1399. buying at months end. Dont expect much from other dealers with limited 2013's . Your seeing that already. This may be your best possible deal on any remaining 2013's.

    Good luck with your choice.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Also been looking for a 2013/14 Accord EX-L 4 cyl in the NYC area.
    These are the best I got from talking to 5 dealers via Internet and Phone.

    Sell Price 25,000 (inc dest, doc, and any finance charges)
    Below invoice: $1400
    Dealers on phone say potential flex, maybe $500?

    Sell Price 26,200 (inc dest, doc, and any finance charges)
    Below invoice: $350
    No Flex
    Net Looks simialr to mistersc but with no add ons

    Both plus NYS tax and DMV $150~$250

    Based on the forum, looks like this are OK prices, but maybe can push for add ons like splash, molding, etc.

    Experts...advice? Thoughts? If $1200 ~ $1500 delta, thinking of the 2014.

    Thanks - James D
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,821
    edited September 2013
    If add ons are not on 2013 car already dealer wont throw in at this time of the year with limited stock. you could try but it will affect your buying price. For that matter he will sell to the next guy.. Work on getting your lowest price at the end of this month there is some more room to save. Then after securing your lowest price ask dealer if he will install your options at invoice cost. mats , guards ,and molding. These items can be bought on line at close to invoice price at.... College hills honda , Cheap honda parts.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Brian - Thanks for the advice. Will stick to getting the best sale price.

    So for a 2014, is negotiating to something like $26,000 (inc. dest/dealer doc) feasible...$650 under invoice? Would like to close this week pick up over the weekend.

    Before reading these forums I used to think being a few hundred over invoice was a great price, especially for a 2014 in September. But now much informed, so thank you all.

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,821
    edited September 2013
    James, you will find out if its possible at the end of the month. Any price below invoice right now is a real good buy in New YORK. Honda may has loosened up pricing on the 2014 models.

    Auto-Sport honda in N.J. told me today he is willing to sell me at invoice price on all 2014 models. So my read on that is and what i told my friend who is looking for a 2014 model At the end of this month that price could very well turn into 200/300/ maybe more below invoice if you play your cards right.

    What dealer in NY was at 350 below?

    I have not sent out any emails or calls just yet on pricing but i will wait til the 30th.

    A 350 below invoice price in new york with 75 doc's = a 275 below invoice price sale.

    A 350 below invoice price in New jersey with 299 plus doc's = a 50 below invoice price sale.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • I bought my car! We went back and forth a bit, but finally bought a 2014 Accord EX-L (no navi, 2.4L). Thanks to everyone, including Brian, Blue and Spark for their excellent advice and tips.

    Here's the breakdown.

    MSRP: $29,060

    Invoice $25860
    Destination $790

    Car Price: $26,100
    Wheel locks: $0
    Mud guards: $0

    Doc fee: $80
    Electronic Vehicle Registration: $26

    Tax: $2,356
    State fees: License/Title/Tire $287.75

    Out the door: $28,840.95

    In an earlier post, I noted that a dealer included Flex cash. That turned out to be in error. In the end, the dealer threw in the mud guards and locks for free. I could possibly have gotten a better deal by waiting another week, but we decided to buy the car due to a lot of life circumstances.

    This was our 2nd car purchased at Honda of Hollywood. As before, the transaction was smooth and I didn't pay a dime more than we had negotiated (actually, I paid a bit less due to an error on their part, and they were willing to just eat the cost to avoid displeasing a customer!!!).

    The one bit of advice. When I first called this dealership this month, the internet guys were busy, so the secretary routed me to a regular salesperson. I didn't know that. But, my experience with that salesperson wasn't so good. I was a bit surprised given my prior experience. Later, I went with my gut and called a 2nd time, asking again for the internet guy. This time, I was routed to Simon, the guy who eventually closed the deal.

    Moral of the story: sometimes the secretaries don't route you to the internet/fleet salesperson. If you think it's off, sometimes, it's worth a second call.
  • iffiiffi Posts: 5

    I am new to the forum. We are looking at purchasing a 2013 Accord EX in Twin Cities MN area.

    This is the first time we will buying a brand new car so need advice from the collected wisdom of everyone.

    The lowest quote that I have got so far is $23,799. I have requested the OTD price from them (going through the education that OTD price is the key thing to focus on).

    I have read through many of the past threads on this forum to get myself educated on some of the intricacies and things to look for but still would love to hear what everone's thoughts are on this and what additional questions I should ask or things to look out for/consider in this process.

    Thanks everyone.
  • "what additional questions I should ask or things to look out for/consider in this process."

    I'll let the more experienced posters talk strategy, but be sure to get the breakdown of the OTD price. Dealer A might have the lowest OTD, but dealer B's might be a better deal if it includes $300 worth of accessories and services for only $100 more. You may decide that those extras aren't worth it, but having the breakdown gives you more information from which to decide.

    Also, in my area (Los Angeles), the dealers were starting to converge to a similar price for the 2013 vehicles. After a certain point, several stopped trying to drop in price and started to add services (e.g. free oil changes). Those services may or may not be appealing to you, but it's worth considering.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 246
    Correct, correct, correct!

    Dealer fees are simply a somewhat unethical method dealers employ to give the impression they are selling for less than they actually sell. This allows them to advertise the lower price in large print. The dealer fees are usually well hidden. This accomplishes their primary goal of getting the buyer to visit. Dealers spend much money and effort on this goal.

    As you indicate, savvy buyers understand this gambit and negotiate as if the dealer fees are simply part of the price. Dealers have many costs, preparing paperwork is just one of those costs. People should ask why dealers separate these costs from all their other costs. Why don't they charge extra for the use of their office, their janitors, or the lot guys? The answer is simple, all dealer costs are includes in the price of the vehicle. Ever see Best Buy charge extra for such things. Simple cost accounting.

    Dealers use the word fee because they believe that word deceives buyers into considering the fee a valid addition to the price. Reality is that fee is path of the price.

    The scary thing is, even for readers of these forums, it appears dealers have been successful. Why anyone would pay a dealer hundreds is beyond understanding

    Of course there is one small benefit to the buyer if they deal shows the dealer fee separate from the price. Sales tax is not computed on the dealer fee. This is good as long as the price is reduced by the fee amount.

    If all buyers simply said no, probably would not be long before dealers, even those in Florida who have preferred this scam to an art form, would abandon the scam. Of course dealers are always inventive when it comes to pilfering a buyer's wallet. I doubt it would take them much time to concoct a new scam. Dealers pay their F&I staff a lot of money to increase the back end profit. Some of these F&I characters are quite good at what they do. I am sure these folks, at one of their conventions in Las Vegas, would be capable of coming up with a new scam quite easily. They always do.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 246
    Dealer fee of $899? Only in Florida.

    Obviously your dealer was not totally honest. He could and did get the flex cash. There is no such thing as technically unable. He either could or could not. Just a small example of why a buyer should never accept any dealer statement on face value. All dealers will say almost anything to make a buyer believe they got a special deal.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 361
    edited September 2013
    Welcome to the forum.

    Here is some useful information that will help in your car buying search. First of all, you should always find out what the invoice price of the car is. Websites such as and are a good resource.

    Invoice price for the 2013 EX is $24,037 (including destination fee). Hence, your deal is only $238 below invoice (not counting any doc fees). That is a terrible price. Although OTD price is important, you should always make sure dealers give you a break down such as:

    1. Sale price of the car including destination fee (without any incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Title and registration fees
    4. Flex cash available for 2013 models? (Honda provides $500 towards your down payment for financing through them. Not all dealers will have it, so you should always ask).
    5. Dealer add-ons (accessories)
    6. Incentives
    7. Tax (You can calculate that yourself)

    At this time of the year, you should be getting at least $1000 below invoice on the 2013 EX plus flex cash.

    Read some of my previous posts on how to go about negotiating at the end of the month and closing the deal during the last days. Message #31193, #31033.

    Inventory on the 2013 is getting low at some dealer lots, so if you are looking for a specific color and are unable to land a great deal, you could look into purchasing a 2014 model.

    At the end of the day, you want to be an informed buyer so do not let any sales guy take advantage of you. If you call or email dealerships and they ask you to come in without naming their price, move on to the next one. You will always find a few dealerships who have good customer service and are ready to sell you a car at a good price without any BS. I have walked out of two dealerships because they were playing games.

    After finding out what the market price in your area is, you should either call or email internet sales managers the last 2 days of the month and tell them you will buy the car for $XXXX below invoice today. If they ask you again to come in, put them on the spot and ask them to name their price (make sure you have all that info in writing). If you are not sure about any charges, always ask. If you cannot get any straight answers, you can ask in this forum and we will tell you whether it makes sense or not.

    Good luck with you car search and let us know how things go. Do not get discouraged, there are 6 more days before the end of the month.
  • ken, sales tax statutes vary by state. You are very fortunate that your state doesn't tax the fee. I'm surprised to see that. In fact, using your Best Buy example, I would ask them to lower the cost of that 60" TV and add an admin fee and save some sales tax :)
  • Yes, they were $599 in 2010 and have increased it to $899 since then. Most dealers are between $599-$699 here. I just ignore it and fight for the price.
  • I am in a similar boat as James. Not sure what to do. Maybe patience is my best tactic.

    Sell Price 25,000
    Below invoice: $1400
    This includes $500 flex cash

    Sell Price 26,650
    Below invoice: $0
    No Flex
  • is this price for 2013 CRV EX-L?, based on my experience it is great price about $ 1,690 below invoice.

    which state you are from having these great prices?.
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