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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • schidschid Posts: 4
    Thanks to the input from everyone on the forum, I was able to negotiate a better deal from another dealer. What i currently have is:

    Price including Destination Fee and $500 Flex Cash = $25201
    Add Ons - $299 (Tint + Honda Propack)
    TTL - $1957
    Total Drive Out - $27457

    The base price is $1450 below invoice.
  • I had a question regarding $500 graduate cash. I had graduated around 4 years back. But my fiance graduated this year. My question is how can I get this cash? Will my fiance have to be a co-owner or something?
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    Congrats on your purchase.

    BTW, how much were your dealer doc fees?
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    edited November 2013
    You can read more about the Honda graduate program here:

    It appears that your fiancé would have to be the primary owner of the car (Don't quote me on this, but I would recommend calling Honda financial services or contacting a participating dealer).

    Here are the requirements:

    •5% minimum down payment
    •Verifiable proof of employment or firm commitment from an employer with start date no more than 120 days from date of finance contract
    •Graduated in past two years or will graduate in next four months
    •No adverse credit history
    •Master’s, bachelor’s or associate degree from U.S.-accredited college or registered nursing school
    •Provide Honda dealer with credit and document requirements
  • schidschid Posts: 4
    The doc fees were $189
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    That's not bad at all. Enjoy the ride.

    I love my 2013 EX-L. The heated seats come in handy here in MA. I wished Honda also had a heated steering wheel :)
  • Hi All

    I am looking for an EX-L 4 Cylinder in NJ. I tried Penfed Car buying services which in turn uses the Truecar pricing. The Pricing i got is 26,650.

    Is it a good price? Any dealer suggestion in NJ / Philadelphia area?

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    edited November 2013
    No, it is not a good price. $26,650 is the invoice price of the car.
    Reach out to dealerships on your own. You should be getting anywhere between $500 to $1000 below invoice price (without any incentives) on 2014 models.

    There is a lot of advice on this forum on how to reach out to internet sales managers and negotiate a good deal. When were you looking to buy? Within the next few days or next few weeks? If you are ready to buy soon, you should email/call dealerships and ask for the internet sales manager or sales manager and tell them you will BUY TODAY for $XXX below invoice.

    Hope that helps.
  • Thanks for the advice. I am planning to buy in the next couple weeks. I sure will read the earlier posts.

    Is there anyone out there in NJ looking to buy. Please share your experience with the dealerships and pricing. It will help me.

  • Hi

    Has anyone bought the 2014 Accord Hybrid ...not the Plug In . If so please share the deal you got.

  • Built a 2014 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 with the Honda Satellite-Linked Navigation System, added on remote start and back up camera/sensor thingy. My dealer came back and said that with tax title and license it would be 33,895.81. On the honda website it gave me a price of 33,927. When I asked why only the small difference they said it included labor for the remote start and back up sensor. To me they haven't marked the car down that much. I am new to this process and do not want to be taken advantage of. Could you please give me your thoughts, opinions, and or suggestions on how to lower the price? Or is the right on target? Is it really necessary for a back up sensor? I drive my cars till they drive or get hit my a deer and the body shop has to put it up on the frame rack......
    I had a 2008 Accord EX-L V6 with remote start, premium sound system and insurance wouldn't total it estimate to fix was 9320.02. The insurance company is going by retail price which they said was around $15,300 and the dealership is going by trade in $10,000, which is causing all kinds of confusion for me. The dealership has another 2008 EX-L V6 with 20k miles less and asking for $15,900. My car is in excellent condition except for the deer damage.
    Please and Thanks in advance.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    I know it always sounds crude, but take 15 mins and read back into this forum for a month or two.

    As a point of reference, I just bought an EXL V6 (NO Nav) for 26,999 + TTL. So 33,927 sounds, well, horrible. Sounds like that is STICKER price!

    I mean I know we need some buyers to pay close to sticker to help subsidize the rest of us who are trying to buy these cars for zero profit to the dealer, but if you've found this board then you should be smart or motivated enough to do a little work and you can probably save yourself thousands of dollars.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,888
    edited November 2013
    Auto-sport ........ Bridgeport N.J.


    speak only to int/ managrs when your ready to buy.

    Your leverage will be buying this model the last 2 days last, day of this month. Nov is a slow month for car dealerships with thanksgiving week and holiday travel hurting sales.

    Finding the dealership that is below there sales quota this month will result in a Invoice price to maybe a below invoice price. Otherwise if you could get the hybrid at Invoice price you have done good. New jersey is not a good selling area right now.

    A Supply and demand vehicle.... You will not receive pricing like the 2014 Accords have been selling unless you go online and see what dealers have many on there lots. Then you have a shot at much better pricing.

    Good luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • I'm looking hard at picking up one of these, but I'm going to wait till December, just to see if the dealers can come off of MSRP. Some dealers want way over MSRP for the only one sitting on the lot. Going to have to get more inventory before any deals can be cut.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,888

    you have the best plan........... buy that hybrid at the end of Dec. Start working on dealers this month and buy next month. Be firm on your target price and hold out til Dec, 30 making your best deal at that time.

    By Dec end you may find 5 to 10 of your model on dealers lots.. keep checking the high volume dealership near you .

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • My brother actually gave me this website and I knew nothing about it. Thank you for the information at looking back a couple months for pricing. Right now I am in the middle of dealing with the insurance company giving me money for my 2008 EXL w/navi from hitting a deer, body shop and whether or not they are going to total the car.
    Can you tell me how I can find out whether or not the dealership is meeting the car quota sales? I am in Peoria Illinois.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,888
    Dealerships sales quota's

    Its really hard to tell which dealers in your area are going to make there monthly sales numbers. If you have a lot of dealerships in or around your area that makes sales competition better for you.

    By getting 10 to 20 dealerships involved in pricing helps you get the best price.
    Some dealers will flat out tell you we need to make our numbers this month so our pricing will be more aggressive. Some dealers wont say a word.

    The smart car shopper buys at the end of the month last few days maybe even holding out to the last day of the month. Buying at month end avoids alot of dealer bs on pricing.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited November 2013
    [this message really replying to Seachella]


    I think when we say "dealers need to make quotas" that is sort of a conceptual thing. There isn't a big sign on the front of every dealership that shows the number above or below some quota target. Some salesmen MIGHT tell you, but salesmen say so many things, I'm not sure why you'd ever believe them. I get letters all the time from local dealers saying that they "have to meet quotas" or "we have to move our inventory" or whatever. It's all true but that is just what being a car dealer is all about.


    It shouldn't matter HOW a given dealer gets to the lowest price. If there are 6 dealers I'm working, and one has the lowest price, I could honestly care less whether he is quoting that price because he needs to make a quota, or because he is a "volume dealer" and sells more cars than others, or because he is getting some hidden compensation from Honda, or because he is stupid and selling at a loss, or because he is a nice guy, or because he is just in a happy mood because it's a sunny day. The HOW doesn't matter. The WHAT does matter.

    Just go through the process, get some internet quotes, get a sense of what others on this board are buying their cars at, and you'll quickly get yourself to a "GOOD" price. Whether you want to keep working it further, by taking some of your higher cost quotes and "stretching them" by asking them whether they would sell to you TODAY at $XYZ price (where XYZ price is a lower, but still believable, number BELOW your lowest current quote) is up to you. That's the way to truly find rock-bottom pricing, but is also requires some higher-level negotiating skills, and the possibility that you may get some NO answers and/or some shenanigans like I did once I got into the dealer who had "agreed" my lower offer.

    Just start with the internet quotes. As you are in Peoria, get quotes from the Chicago dealers as well, at least on the southern side. Joliet, Oak Lawn, Lisle, Countryside, etc. Just go to their websites, fill out the "request a quote" section, and type in 2014 Accord EXL V6, and specify color if you are set on a color. I would suggest you DO NOT do this "build your own car" thing on the website and AT THIS POINT don't get all hung up on your "remote start" option. Work on getting some quality low quotes on the base car that is the same for all dealers. Don't confuse things with your remote starter. If the dealers sense that you are so interested in the "customization" of the car, then you no longer have a "commodity" and it makes it harder to just compare different dealer quotes as if you were comparing the price of a gallon of milk between 3 different stores.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    edited November 2013
    Here is some advice when asking for internet quotes. This is the information you should specifically ask for from dealers:

    1. Sales price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Title and registration fees (should be the same across all dealers in your state)
    4. Dealer add-ons
    5. Incentives such as flex cash (if you are financing through Honda, you will receive $500 towards your down payment)

    If a dealer does not provide you with all the required information above, you can remind them about it. But after a second request, if you feel they are playing games then move on to the next dealership on your list.

    Once you have all this information, you can focus on the dealerships who have the lowest sales price and actually have the car on their lot. If dealer A has the lowest price of the car and dealer B has the second lowest price, I would recommend keeping dealer B as a backup in case your deal with dealer A falls through.

    Before going into the dealership to close the deal, make sure the car is on their lot in the color you want with (or without) the accessories you want. If a dealer tries to convince you to come into their dealership to get a good price on the car, do not fall for that trick. Let them know that you'd rather do all negotiations via email/phone. You should only be going into the dealership to close the deal by inspecting the car, and signing the paperwork.

    IMPORTANT: Always remember that you are in control. If you are about to close the deal and the sales guy (or a manager) decides to play games by adding some "hidden fees" to the purchase or had lied to you, feel free to walk out of the dealership. You can take your business to your backup dealership.

    Good luck.
  • Are any of these 2014 new plug-in Accords on the market yet?
  • Probably not going to pan out, but I sent emails to 3 dealers I've been communicating with to see if any will sell me a 2014 Accord EX-L for 25,000 with dest. fee ALREADY added in and $500 honda loan incentive ALREADY subtracted out. The lowest offer I've had up until today is $25,499 and maybe that's the best I can get in my area. (That prices includes Dest. Fee and the $500 incentive).

    Have heard from 2 of the 3 dealers within a few minutes and both tell me that their Internet offer is their very best offer - one is the 25,499 and the other is 26,2XX, with the 3rd dealer being the lowest volume one in the group. The $26+ dealer told me that there's a new Lease Incentive out today ---- an addition $800 off the price.

    If I have money to BUY a car, when does doing a Lease make sense?
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 365
    You can try reaching out to other dealerships at the end of the month.

    Are you thinking of leasing or financing the car?
  • ash31ash31 Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    I live in bay area and I am looking to buy Accord LX. Anyone made a similar purchase or in the market for this car, please share your experience.
  • gem52gem52 Posts: 2
    Did anyone buy a 2014 Accord Sport recently and care to share their buying and price experience? Tampa Bay Area
  • The preference is to BUY, not Lease, because we like to pass our old cars on to family members, but when we heard about the incentive, it made us think a little about a lease.

    To take advantage of the $500 incentive, you have to finance, so we will for that reason alone and for shortest amount of time possible.

    Yeah, I guess we'll wait til month end. Trying to save a few hundred may not be worth the continued irritation of dealing with salespeople. No offense to anyone in sales (and I've been there myself at times), but I'm just not patient enough to hear the same thing over and over. It's easy to see why some people prefer just to pay the asking price and be done with it! And yes, I know this forum is for the others of us.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited November 2013
    Georgette - a couple suggestions.

    1) make a decision to buy vs lease not just based on whether there is an extra 300 incentive (800 vs 500). It's a totally different "ownership" experience (actually its not ownership)....if you want to make monthly payments, and worry about not driving it too many miles, and worry about damaging it, etc, then lease might be OK. I've always preferred straight-up ownership because I typically own cars for long periods of time, and don't value the ability to "turn back the car to the dealer" at the end of a lease.

    2) once you get your initial "good" internet quotes, I suggest you then need to move to the phone and start TALKING to some of these internet managers. Develop a "relationship" and let them see you are a real live buyer, and not some faceless robot emailing in the background. In terms of how to "stretch" them, you are indeed correct that you need to make an offer that is lower than their current internet quote. They will resist of course, and say that their internet quote is their "best quote". Why should they just start negotiating against THEMSELVES? For all they know, they are the lowest dealer, or the only dealer, you are speaking with. So it doesn't carry as much water to PHRASE your ask as "would'ya sell for $25k when your quote is $25.5". You haven't given them a compelling reason to change their quote, and you just sound like you're fishing.

    So what I think you need to do is recognize you have multiple dealers in the mix. This is where it gets tricky. Let's say ALL 3 DEALERS are at 25,499, 24,550 and 24,600. How do you get to 25,000 flat? First of all, do you have evidence (from this board) that 25,000 flat is an achievable number? (I haven't paid attention to your specific trim line since I was shopping for a V6). IF it is, then you'll need to stretch the dealer. I'd suggest you speak with the HIGHEST dealer and tell him that you appreciate his quote, but you have another quote for 25,001 and therefore you are going to head over to that other dealer TOMORROW MORNING AND BUY THE CAR. And wait and just see what he says. Maybe the number you use is 25,250, I dunno. It is whatever number you think is achievable but it needs to be believable too. You can't say "Oh yeah I've got another dealer at 22,500" They'll know you're a liar.

    First, he will say "that sounds too low. They're probably tricking you, by not including Destination, or by including options that they will spring on you" You need to say "No, I am very careful as you can tell, and I've asked all those questions. I've confirmed that I can buy the car for [$25,001] plus tax, title and license." Then one of two things will happen. He will either say "ok well that is way far from what we can do, good luck" or he will say "let me check with my manager and come right back to you". The key is that you say "I AM GOING TO BUY THE CAR TOMORROW". This means that this is his last shot, so if he has any room in his price, he knows that he needs to act now otherwise he loses you.

    This is basically the same thing as Brian's method, although I gather that Brian just calls the various internet guys and says "I want to buy the car for 25,001....if you can hit that price I will buy it from you today and I'll be in there in 60 mins to start the paperwork". That's another (or maybe the same) way to do this. The risk to this strategy is that you strike out on all accounts, then you're left with no car and you've lost some cred. I guess since you're phrasing it as I WANT TO buy the car at 25,001, you're not actually saying you can. Depends on whether you're willing to wait. In MY personal case, I only "stretched" by 150 bucks. I had a lowest internet quote, and then I called a few other dealers and just made an offer of 150 less than my lowest quote. I DID NOT TOUCH MY LOWEST DEALER for fear of messing up that best quote. Best case I get someone to bite 150 bucks lower, worst case nobody bites and I just go buy the car at the lowest quote. Turned out somebody DID bite, so I went with that one. And I was satisfied that it was a great price because I had already worked the quotes a lot and I hadn't seen ANYONE buying for this low of a price on this board or others. Now, I've seen a few other posters have been matching my price on the V6.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,888
    Call all your targeted dealerships on NOV, 29th. Speak only to the internet managers.

    Let each dealership know you will buy at the end of the month for 25k. Tell each manager the 1st dealer to reach my offer of 25k gets my business and the sale that moment.

    You will have your answer on price that day or dealers best price by the end of............. Nov.

    Do not drive from one dealership to the next... Secure your lowest price by phone or online then go to dealership.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,888
    Make sure you and dealership are on the same page price wise..
    Include dest/ charge in your offer price.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Just bought a 2014 Sport 6 speed manual in the New Orleans area. MSRP was $ 24505 including destination charge. Sale price was $ 22395. Dealer had to get the car from another dealer in Mississippi because there were no 6 speeds in stck in the New Orleans area and I told them upfront I had no interest in the CVT.
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