Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • agraceragracer Posts: 5
    $23,006 was the price including destination. Add TTL and any Options The price was thru Costco at Sterling McCall

    I just picked one up (EX-L 4cyl - blk/ivory) for $23,650 with trunk trey, wheel locks, wood dash trim, tinted windows, and some other dealer stuff (windshield protection and paint/interior protection) with vin-dots (or something).

    I don't have the papers in front of me. I'll update the OOD price later.

    I took the e-mail from Sterling McCall and went to John Eagle in Houston because they had the color I wanted.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    2009 Accord EX-L sedan
    Manual transmission

    We paid $25,700 for the car before tag and title but that price includes over $1000 worth of accessories (wing spoiler, fog lights, body-side molding, splash guards, cargo net). Overall we are very happy with the deal and the dealership we got it from.

    Before we bought here we had a bad experience with another area Honda dealer. FWIW, if you are in the Atlanta area, Hennessy was great. Everything was as they said, they worked hard to get this car from another dealer as well. DO NOT go to Honda Carland. They had days to get their act together then stumbled around when we actually went in to get the car.
  • lance_llance_l Posts: 6
    McDavid Honda Irving quoted me several hours ago

    "2009 Honda Accord EX-L AT

    Invoice: $24,088Our "No Haggle, No Hassle" Internet Price: $22,089*
    (Valid through 4/20/2009)

    *Price excludes destination, dealer options, tax, title and license fees. Subject to availability. Some restrictions apply. See dealer for details."

    Is this Internet Price reliable? Seems too good to be true because it sure beats every other dealer that I went to
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    Destination is $670, after the dealer adds on their document fee (aka Dealer Fee, Customer Service Fee, etc) that will take you up to $23,000. Most dealers (at least in Atlanta) have a dealer fee of $400-600. $1000 off of invoice is pretty accurate considering Honda has $1000 dealer cash on the Accord right now.
  • gabby22gabby22 Posts: 1
    Today I was quoted a price of $24,995 for a 2009 4 door sedan 4 cyl. EXL with Nav. Is this good?? They didn't mention taxes, title, etc., so I don't know if this is the "out the door" price. This is in the Chattanooga, Tenn. area. I don't know the invoice price for the 2009 model. Does anyone?
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    "if you are going to post a price, it is important to note that you had a trade-in, and actually go so far as to say what you traded in and for what.

    One of the key ways dealers make money is to get cars (trade-ins) at really low prices. They may give you a really good deal on the car to get you to buy it, but with one hand giveth, the other taketh; they will nail you on your trade-in's value.

    This isn't a rant, but just letting some of you know that some of these prices here are too good to be true if it were just a straight purchase."

    That's a great point! Dealers can make the new car price look great on paper. A lot of buyers would think they're getting a great deal if the sales contract shows the new car at/below invoice price. But they don't realize that their trade-in was worth $9000 but they only got $7000 for it! The only way to determine if you're getting a good deal is by looking at the entire transaction- new car price and trade-in.

    I'm one of those customers that car dealers HATE! Before going to the dealership, I look up the Edmunds, KBB and NADA trade-in value for the car I'm trading. I also look up the Edmunds TMV, KBB and CarsDirect prices for the exact model and options I want to buy. I print all of these out and take them with me to the dealer...but I don't pull them out until I've negotiated the price I want on the new one AND I've let them appraise my trade-in.

    I can usually get them down to a fair price on the new car (close to Edmunds TMV or lower), but they offer anywhere from $1000 to $4000 less for my trade than it's worth. Once they have the selling price of the new car and the trade allowance showing on the dreaded 4-square worksheet, I pull out my ammo! First, I'll show them what Edmunds says my trade-in is worth. Their response is that they use Blue Book Trade-In Values. NO PROBLEM, I've got that as well. Want to see the NADA value, too?

    At that point, the Sales Manager shows up. I tell him that I won't be trading unless they give me KBB trade-in value. At that point, I usually win and they give me fair trade-in value. If they won't (this is where it gets really fun), I grab a pen and mark thru the trade-in part of the worksheet. I tell them that I won't be trading in my car but I'll buy the new car for the price we've already agreed to! I've gotten several good deals this way, but I've also been yelled at and even told "go somewhere else" using this tactic.

    If they don't hate me at that point, they usually do when I get to the Finance Manager and tell him I've already arranged outside financing! :surprise:
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • agraceragracer Posts: 5
    Update on Price

    Trade in was '94 Accord EX-L w/ 160,000 miles = $1250 (edmuds said it was worth $850 - it was "rough"...bad ABS Modulator ($800), needed tires, rust damage rear quarte panel, small tear in drivers seat - even doing the work myself I'd have spend a grand easy just fixing the ABS and new tires).

    '09 EX-L 4cyl w/ trunk tray, wheel locks, window tint, mud guards, wood dash trim, 3-oil changes 1st year)

    Car $23,650
    TTL= $1646.31 (includind State inspection and $50 doc fee).
    Trade ($1250)

    OOD = $24,046

    John Eagle in Houston
  • agraceragracer Posts: 5

    Go there and just look. Don't talk to any sales men. They will likley have a separate sticker on the windshield with some options. This is what they did where I got mine.

    They had the "pro pack" which was trunk tray, mud guards, wheel locks, also tinted windows, paint/fabric protect, diamond windshield protection (NOTE: Wax your windshield and the water will blow off like magic - seriously).

    Anyway, they added $1,700 for all that and then tried the "it costs us this much" for that stuff...but I really didn't care b/c I didn't ask for all that. Most dealers will add stuff on as soon as they get the car. It helps them with negotiations and margin.

    So just know going in what your up against with that internet price and what you'll have to fight through in regards to 'options'.
  • mhuynhmhuynh Posts: 2
    I visited John Eagle over Easter just to look at the cars without any sales people around. I plan on purchasing the 09 Accord EX-L w/o navi within the next month. Any suggestions as to what I should bring in (research, quotes for my trade in, etc...) so I can haggle with them?

    You got a great deal and I hope to achieve the same. It would be nice to get the extras like you did as well (trunk tray, wheel locks, window tint, mud guards, etc.)

    I have a 98 LX Accord to trade in.

    KBB says $1500 trade in
    Edmunds says $1174 trade in

    This is my first "real" car purchase so I'm not really sure what to expect. Any advice would be appreciated!
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 399
    Advice on your first "real" car purchase. Sell your 98 Accord yourself - you'll get more for it. Don't go for any of the extras with your new Accord purchase - they're big profit markup items for dealer. Go for the lowest price you can negotiate on the car itself and when you get to a point you think it's as low as it will go, payments and interest rates included, then state you'll do the deal if they'll add the few extras you want. Remember, get everything negotiated up front before adding the goodies, or they'll go at you again in the finance office. And when in the finance office signing the paperwork, say NO to everything they want you to add and double check all the figures so the bottom-line numbers/payments are the same as you agreed to earlier. Good luck to you! :shades:
  • dan2008dan2008 Posts: 9
    For those of you with trade in, you should go to CarMax or its' equivalent where you are and get a purchase quote before you go to purchase your new vehicle.
    You will do far better if you separate the 2 transactions - the new car purchase and the used car trade-in/sale.
    FYI-I have found that CarMax has been pretty reasonable when offering to purchase my used vehicles. I have sold them 3 different cars without purchasing a car from them.
  • It's not a bad idea to get an appraisal from CarMax, but the notion that they pay top dollar for trade-ins is a myth. They will try to steal them just like any other dealer, and there is less pressure on them to raise their offer because you aren't buying a car from them at the same time.
  • Bought a 2009 EX-L V6, Royal Blue Pearl, leather, w/o Nav for $23,144 +TTL. Purchased in Fredericksburg VA. No trade in.
  • Somehow I don't believe it, unless it had lots of miles on it already.
  • Hello,
    I've found this forum to be very helpful and thought I'd share my purchase price on an '09 EX-L 4cyl w/o Nav. Vehicle price $22,575+TTL. Painless buying expericence with no tricks, etc. I probably could've done a little better, but I'm satisfied. Take delivery tomorrow.
  • I emailed them for a Internet quote on a EX-L 4 cylinder, and their price was surprisingly low. Problem is, I am in Florida , not Virginia . . it might almost be worth it to drive up there, though. But isn't it a hassle to get it registered back in FLA?
  • I finally pulled the trigger last weekend. '09 Coupe EX-L, V-6, 6 speed manual w/o NAV in silver for $27539 out the door (TTL included). It's a great ride! And I can see that the economy is killing car sales - this car was inspected on Nov 5, 2008. It'd been sitting for five months!

    Six speed with V-6 is great.... What a crazy upgrade from my 01 Civic EX 5 speed.

  • alienantalienant Posts: 1
    I'm looking to buy a used Accord in the Chicagoland area. Any recommendations for a dealer you've dealt with before?
  • agraceragracer Posts: 5
    First, maybe go to CarMax and get a quote for your trade. I believe they'll give it to you in writing. Take it with you. Do not tell them you want to trade in your car. Save that for the end.

    If you are a Costco member, use their service to get a quote. Google Costco Auto and it will give you a link. Sterling McCall is the Houston Costco rep on the North Side. Use that e-mail as a negotiating tool.

    Otherwise just go test drive, tell them what you want, he'll go over the BS options that they added, tell them you don't really care about that, tell him you'll give him X-dollars for that car nothing more. He'll go to his boss, come back, try to up the price, up your price a little bit (do NOT meet him in the middle, just INCH up) , he'll go back to his boss, his boss will come out and try to talk you into more..."that price is below our invoice, these options are this that...we can't do financing at 2.9% on that price (which is BS - once my deal was signed I got all the extra warranties for the windshield, paint, oil changes, road side assistance, 2.9%, etc..) he might also try to slip in the 'destination charge" that point say "thanks" and get up to walk out.

    The manager will chase you down and ask you to sit down. Explain to him you're upset that you were told by the salesmen the price included the destintation and options and now the story has changed...he'll appologize and give you some BS line then suddenly the price will include the destination.

    Tell them you'll only pay what you said before. Once you agree on a price, THEN get your trade in 'appraised' by them. It will come back low (of course) tell them you want more (go way up above what KBB and Edmunds says), they'll say no, haggle some more and finally get to an agreement. (NOTE: once they bring you a price, ask for your keys back right away - it's hard to walk out when they have to find your keys - I asked for mine two or three times and I could tell the salemen did not like that at all...he lost some control of the sale at that point).

    So once the trade and price are agreed to, ask him to write it all up (it will include price, trade, TTL). Make it clear this is ALL YOU WILL PAY FOR. No other prep fees, etc. There will be a documentation fee and inspection fee on the finance sheet (~$100) so expect that going in.

    He'll bring you a print out showing all the numbers. If you have to, bring a calculator and double check everything. Sign it and they will start the ball rolling on the finance side.

    But you need to know before you walk in these three things...

    Price You will pay for the car.
    Price you want for your trade.
    What you will put down/finance.

    I had all that in my head when I walked in and got what I wanted (OK, I went $150 over...).

    I KNOW they made some $$ of me and will make $$ off the trade. I know that's how it works. What you need to do is decide what you are willing to pay for the car RIGHT NOW** and get there. If you feel like you can do better, walk out. The "get up walk out" routine give YOU all the power.

    Over all it took ~2-1/2 hours to get it all done.

    Good Luck.

    **This is key to any transaction. What is it worth to YOU. My wife and I bought a 2000 Odyssey when they were selling like hot cakes. A friend of mine worked at a Toyota..yes TOYOTA dealer that was importing Odysseys' from CANADA and selling them $3k OVER STICKER with NO WARRANTY...yes, crazy stuff on the Odyssey - it was ALL NEW in 1999 and you could not find them even to test drive.

    A dealer we'd talked to called and got an extra allocation of a one in Granite Green...wife wasn't sure if she liked that color so I asked if he had one we could look at first. Called me back a bit later and said they did not have one, but the sales manager did and his wife would bring it in so we could see what the color looked like. We ended up paying sticker. Yes, he made a ton of money off me..yes I know this. But at the time, considering all the other options (dodge, toyota, ford) to me it was worth the price for what we bought.
  • mitchflorida,
    In response to

    "Somehow I don't believe it, unless it had lots of miles on it already."
    Unless you consider 39 miles on a brand new car high miles. The car is brand new. Pohanka Honda of Fredericksburg, all negotiating done over the internet. Paula Smith was the internet manager and sales person. Best deal I have found on the net. We were in shock when we received the email as well. Though she misquoted us.
  • dan2008dan2008 Posts: 9
    For a trade-in, go to CarMax and get an offer. When you purchase your new car, either make the dealer match the CarMax price, or just go sell it to CarMax. Or better yet, sell it yourself. It is a hassle, but you will profit the most from selling it yourself.

    For the new car, pay CarBargains ( $200 ($175 if you subscribe to checkbook magazine) and they will haggle for you. They pit the dealers locate near where you live against each other and they committ, in writing, to a sales price, usually under invoice. I got my 2009 Accord EX-L V6 for $2,721 under invoice, no haggling etc.. I also got all the accessories that I wanted at dealer cost. And I got the low interest financing.

    So save yourself, time, money and irritation and use CarBargains.

    I will NEVER purchase a new car without it again!
  • homerj31homerj31 Posts: 13
    2009 EX-L V6 Sedan

    First round of quotes have ranged from 25,500+TLL to 26200+TTL (Texas)
    No options or accessories.

    From just reading this forum, seems like another 1k should be possible.

  • ram_mdxram_mdx Posts: 13

    What is the dealer name where you purchased the car. I would like to get one. Can you refer the sales person name. thanks
  • Let me state clearly: I don not work for RB Honda but I did a few years back. I suggest fico, that you play closer attention to the commercial. The ad is for 2007's with an after-market navagition unit.

    Here in the Minneapolis area the six metro dealers co-op advertising and never quote new car prices - only national lease or APR offers. :shades:
  • raj99raj99 Posts: 5
    I got a quote of 2009 Accord EX-L w/o Nav 4 cylinder for 22500 (quote in texas) + TTL an internet quote or price whatever they call it. I have a quote of 22900 for the same model from a dealer in OK, but apparently the taxes in texas are 6.25 % while those in OK are only 3.25 %. I live in texas, how much hassle is it and are there any extra costs if i buy it is OK and register it in texas. What price is a fair price for the model.
  • You will have to pay Texas sales tax when you register your car in Texas. it doesn't matter if you buy it in Oklahoma, you will still end up paying the higher Texas rate. You have to reside in Oklahoma to be pay the lower sales tax.
  • linhmanlinhman Posts: 5
    I am looking for ex-l v6 w/o nav in dfw (TX). Got quote from 24K to 25K with no options. My main concern is there is about 200 case complained of premature bake issue on Honda accord 2008 and about dozen on 2009. Does anyone know if this been fixed lately? If so, where can I verify it? Thanks.
  • autofoolautofool Posts: 3
    everything included, tax here is 6.25%. Can I squeeze another couple hundred dollars? seems very difficult. want your guys opnion, thanks
  • cntenncntenn Posts: 7
    I am posting this for those of you that may live in the Nashville,TN area. On Monday, I received internet quotes for an Accord EX-L V6 from Waltrip, Crest, and Trickett. Waltrip quoted me invoice, Crest and Trickett both quoted me 24,998 plus TTL. Trickett also adds on a 299.00 doc fee. I am not sure that Crest's doc fee is, since we decided to go with Trickett. Overall, a very easy process. I was not suprised with any extra add ons once we got to the dealer. The finance manager was great as well- he did not try to pressure us into buying anything extra.
  • autofoolautofool Posts: 3
    Does it matter? are made in japan ones better than made in Ohio ones? I mean technically. purely in the car itself. I am not talking about politics and patriotics here
Sign In or Register to comment.