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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,142
    edited November 2012

    You got a great deal. Post name of dealership where you purchased so others in this forum can see if you haven't already... Your original price of $ 21,335 is $ 800 below Dealers Invoice. Probably best price so far in this forum.. Where they made there money back from you was on Doc fee's, Registration, Mud Guards, and Sunroof you paid full price on. Next time you buy you always let dealership know all add on's you want at Dealer Invoice price,,, and if not that is a deal breaker. Doc fee's are also negotiable if you cant get them removed tell Dealer you will split the cost in half with them or its a Deal breaker.. Nice job on the oil changes...
    Good luck enjoy your car .............. Brian

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • rob_v6rob_v6 Posts: 20
    Got it for 23700 otd.... Go to Edmunds and get multiple Internet offers. Remember to avoid riverside Honda, they do not honor their Internet quote. You will waste your time going there. Try to get 2.9% rate. You can push them to give it to you. Good luck bro
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,142
    Honda installed Dealer Sunroof.

    Can't find actually price from Honda or any web sites. My buddy tells me that Honda's Cost for Dealer installed Sun/ Moon roof is $395. I though i seen something like Dealer cost of $600... Does anyone have web site or facts on this. Replacement glass on a sun roof is about $200 please post..........

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Just leased tonight at Carr's Honda in Chicago. Very straight forward $440 a month. The down was $795 which included first payment $440, new plates instead of transfer fees, and document fees. And they bought out the last three payments on my leased 10 Accord saving me $708.

    I got to Carr's by accident after trying 7 other Honda dealers in the Chicago area. Best prices started at $498 per month and I payoff my lease. Then several got to $480 and they'd consider paying some of the payoff. No one came close to Carr's first and only offer. The others all said the $440 was impossible but bring them the paperwork and they'd match but they told me I'd never get actual paperwork at $440.

    When I finally said I had the paperwork all of a sudden their best no meat on the bone price dropped the $40 a month and they said the buy out the lease also. I passed and stayed with Carr's who sAved me $2,148 on the lease. Write the Internet Sales Manager if you want a great deal in the Chicago area.
  • Buying from Honda dealer in Colonial Heights, VA. Picking up the car tonight, so I don't know how much the taxes are (3% in VA I think), or the Tags & Title, but I do know this much. I'll post an update after I get the car. Its Modern Steel Metalic w/ Gray interior.

    $25,799 with Destination Fee (no added options, no Doc Fee)
    $379 Dealer Processing Fee (very standard in VA)
  • tdbotdbo Posts: 1
    Looking at purchasing a leftover 2012 LX-P. What are people currently seeing for pricing on this model and what should be the target price? Currently have one internet quote at 19,995, which seems high for a last year's model,
  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    Personally, I think it should be somewhere between 17000 and 18000.
  • I was quoted $27,684 + $790 destination fee + $369 document fee + $199 mandatory window etching fee + taxes. Total is $29,042 + taxes. Any thoughts on whether this is a good deal?
  • I ended up not taking the car. The dealership called me through out the day today. The price details was offered by DCH Kay Honda and I opted to buy a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited with a bunch of added features including a wing spoiler for $22,350 OTD. Although Honda Accord was a great deal, I didn't want to immerse myself into that kind of debt :) Elantra is in my garage now and it is a smooth ride.
  • As promised, here is my purchase. Ironically the car came with mudguards & wheel locks, but because I didn't want them and the vehicle was from another dealership and were already installed, they were free. Its a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L Modern Steel Metalic w/ Gray Interior, 4 Cyl., & no Navi. Here is my breakdown:

    $25,799 Sale Price
    $379 Processing Fee (very standard in VA, some are $599)
    $785.34 VA Sales Tax (3%)
    $25.60 Dealer Business License Tax (every dealership in VA has this)
    $10 Online Filing Fee (DMV)
    $12 License & Title Fee
    $27,010.94 Total Out The Door

    I bought from a dealer just outside Richmond, VA.
  • Hi all,and JuanValdez,

    I have to ask and see if I can understand this.

    Why would anyone lease an Accord (I understand EX-L I-4 w/NAV) for $440, it looks like a total ripp-off to me, and here is my reasoning.

    I do not know all the details of the Acura leases, but saw the ILX 2013 for $229, TSX 2012 for $299 and the TL 2013 for $349. I would think for $440 you could get a better luxury honda lease, meaning the acura. Probably the advertised prices need a bump from a mileage perspective, however compared to $440 they look better.

    Personally I do not lease, I actually bought a 2012 SE Accord about 3 months ago for 21.5K OTD (my post at the end of August) and that is due to my high mileage I put on the car. I put no money down, financed at %.9 and pay 366$ a month.

    Still trying to reason for the $440 accord lease though, does not seem like a good deal to me. Can someone please try and explain how this is a good deal? Is it better than the acura deals?

  • Reading all of the posts, I wonder if one simple way to approach a dealer/dealers is to ask one question and that is "what is the monthly lease amount and residual for a (for example) a 36 month, 12k for a specific car with NO down payment except for the first months lease payment".
    It seems that you can forget about money factor, MSRP, dealer invoice, etc. and most other things because what you are really comparing is your monthly lease costs and residual for a specific car with a certain lease period and mileage.
    Appreciate anyones input.
  • The 2013 Accord isn't that great to lease yet since it is new and the money factor is still a bit high. The part I think you are missing is that those Acura leases probably require a fairly large down payment upfront, which is not what you want to do when leasing. It looks like the $440 Accord lease is with less than $1000 out of pocket upfront, which is pretty awesome. When companies advertise leases, they always look good until you read the fine print and see the required down payment and they almost always are for 10K miles per year.
  • Thanks for the info. Mike. I just test drove the same car on Hull St. last night. Good to have some info. to go on. What was the 1st name of your salesperson?
  • On November 12, I bought a 2013 Honda Accord LX automatic with splash (mud) guards, door edge trim and wheel lock from Avery Greene Honda. They claim to beat ANY competitor's written quote.

    I saw a message (#27535) where David McDavid of Frisco had the same car for $19,599. That's more than $1,000 lower than the price I paid for just 8 days after I bought my car. Was anyone able to buy an LX at that advertised price? I would love to have that advertisement by David McDavid of Frisco since Avery Greene Honda claimed to beat ANY competitor's written quote. Thank you.

    Price: $20,625
    Doc processing charge: $80
    Tax (8.375%): $1,734.04
    License: $157
    Registration: $70
    CA Tire fees: $8.75
    Smog abatement fee: $20
    Total: $22,713.39
  • I went to Colonial and worked with Gordon. Granted it was the end of the month, but you should be able to get close to that. I just lucked out with the mudguards & wheel locks since they were already on the car when it was transfered.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Peter, I believe you're interested in knowing the residual in case you want to purchase the car at lease end, but you will want to know the residual and money factor so that you can compute the capitalized cost of the car, which is the amount the leasing company will be paying the dealer (as well as any other other fees you want to put into the lease payment). Say you are noticing that others are paying $500 over invoice when purchasing. You see some ads for leases at $300 a month and you go to a dealership and negotiate down to $250. It's in your budget and you're proud of yourself for getting a better deal than advertised. Then you inquire about the money factor, put it into your calculator along with the residual and MSRP and calculate what the cap cost of the car is and the answer comes out to $1000 over invoice. You won't be too happy. Or say you agreed on a price of $250 and the day you come in to sign the papers, the money factor has dropped. Well, your lease payment should too but you'll never know because you don't know the money factor and don't expect your salesman to volunteer the info, he will just increase the cap cost on the paperwork and make some extra commission. That's why salespeople will always try to convince you that you should only be interested in the lease amount. And, unless the salesperson quotes you a low money factor, I would ask to see the rate sheet provided by the leasing company.
    The cap cost will eventually appear on your lease agreement so there is no reason he shouldn't tell you up front if you ask and that is the number you should be negotiating.
    Since lease ads are so misleading with all the fine print, I do suggest telling the dealer to tell you what the 36 equal monthly payments would be if you put all fees (documentation, registration, taxes, etc) into the lease and paid nothing other than your first payment at time of delivery. That's the only way to compare apples to apples. Those zero due at signing ads should be outlawed. There all always fees that the dealer will charge.
  • Hi,
    "Since lease ads are so misleading with all the fine print, I do suggest telling the dealer to tell you what the 36 equal monthly payments would be if you put all fees (documentation, registration, taxes, etc) into the lease and paid nothing other than your first payment at time of delivery. That's the only way to compare apples to apples. Those zero due at signing ads should be outlawed. There all always fees that the dealer will charge".

    That is exactly what I am saying to do, namely, that everything is included in the lease amount/month and you essentially walk in to the dealer, ask the lease amount for the car you want over what time period with what mileage/year and do not pay anything more than the first month lease. The residual should be the same for the car but you can always check that out beforehand or know that by comparing it with other dealers you may have asked for a comparison bid.
    I think the process is indeed simple and eliminates the need for worrying about the "cap cost", money factor, etc.
    In my case, I contacted three dealers and ask the same of all three->monthly lease amount for a 36 month/12K/year deal and the residual at the end of three years which turned out to be exactly the same for all three.
    That made my decision very easy. If I walked into a dealership after that agreement and anything else in terms of costs were brought up, I would simply walk away to the next highest bidder. The separation in lease costs of two of the three dealers was $15/month with the same residual for both.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Sorry Peter, you are taking a very naive approach. Let's assume we are talking strictly cash deals, no trade-ins or dealer financing if a purchase.
    Let's leave out taxes since those would be handled differently for a purchase vs a lease. If it's a purchase, then your out the door cost is known. That's equivalent to the cap cost. As long as each dealer is using the same leasing company (and I assume it's Honda Finance), then of course the residuals are the same. I believe for Dec, it would be 61% of the MSRP for an LX and 59% for an EX-L. The money factor is .00155. Neither the residual or the money factor are negotiable. So the only differences in your lease quotes are based on the cap cost. The one who is $15 cheaper would be selling the car to Honda Finance for about $500 less than the others. We see on this board that everyone is paying considerably under MSRP, some very close to and possibly under invoice. But how do you know if two of the dealers are using MSRP as the cap cost and the other is taking $500 off. Yes, he's $15 a month cheaper, but he's ripping you off on the cap cost. He's got at least an extra $1000 in profit based on the cap cost, and if you negotiated that down like you would try if it was a purchase, you'd save about $30 a month.
    Just about everyone knows you can buy almost any car under MSRP so you don't come across too many people that do but take at some of the leases that people are trying to get out of at It's obvious their cap cost was MSRP or higher but they weren't very sophisticated and didn't ask the right questions. I really hope you take my advice. I assure you that you will save a few bucks.
  • newaccordnewaccord Posts: 1
    edited December 2012
    Bought an Accord EXL 4 cyl no nav

    25,919 base price including destination
    179 dealer fee
    300 doc, title, license, and registratio

    28,320 including 7.35% tax

    NY area
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,142
    edited December 2012
    Well said on leasing....... Just because a Dealer Advertise's a good monthly rate on a lease car...... That price for the vehicle is closer to the Dealers M.S.R.P.... Not anywhere near dealers Invoice or below.. Not to mention the small print of paying thousands up front to get that low monthly lease.. My thoughts on leasing and price I dont but if i leased with exceptions of Bmw, Mercedes, and a few others . My lease price would be trying to get way Below Invoice price and trying to take most if not all of the dealers Hold-Back on said vehicle. Remember your renting that Car for a 2 or 3 yr period.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • We purchased the vehicle Friday night after sending an email to local dealer late Thursday. Thanks to everyone on the forum for posting so much helpful info. I have been reading on and off the posts for several months. We narrowed our vehicle choice down after considering the Altima and a VW Passat TDI. This car is needed for a 50 mile per day commute, so decent MPG was important. We liked the new technology on the Accord, we noticed anyone tall in the the Altima backseat would be hitting their head on the top of the car, and we were hesitant about the reliability of VW, although we have heard that the diesel engines last a long time if maintained.

    The quote we received was for invoice plus the typical $790 destination, $26,400, on the EXL in the color we wanted. I noticed in the fine print that there would be a $100 document fee. I called the internet salesman Friday morning. The car was a dealer trade. I told him we weren't interested in any dealer add on accessories. Ended up the car had the splash guards, trunk liner and the wheel locks. I ended up getting him to waive the $100 doc fee and a $33 notary fee, agreed to pay for the splash guards only of the add ons, as that was the one item we felt was really necessary for the rock and shell parking lot my husband parks in daily by the river. I had already done my research on the registration, title and license fees by looking it up online, so we agreed on the calculation, he faxed me a buyer's order and I faxed him a form to charge my credit card $500. The car was prepped and waiting for us at 6 pm Friday, November 30th.

    They said the doc and notary fees had to be shown on the sales form, so they reduced the sales price by the $133.

    Sales price $26,423 (so I paid $153 for the splash guards which was too high, obviously, but at least I got the trunk mat and the wheel locks thrown in)
    Sales tax $2378 (9% in Louisiana, ouch)
    Waste tire fee $8
    Tag and inspection $22
    License title and registration fees $88.50
    Total $29,502

    We had been approved by Pen fed for a 60 month loan for $29,000 at 1.49% but did not have any paperwork on it. The finance manager was able to get me 1.84% through a bank and I was satisfied with that. No financing fees.

    The finance manager tried to sell both gap insurance and the extended warranty, already figured it into the monthly payments. He removed the cost of both though since we were firm without any hassle. Before he removed the cost he even came down a little on the price of the warranty which he called VIP and included the use of a rental car. The 6 year extended was $1,120 and the 7 year was $1,220. We may get it later, maybe through the internet from one of the dealers listed in this forum.

    The dealer was Richards Honda in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. It was hassle free dealing with both the internet salesman and the finance manager. The finance manager actually grew up not far from where my husband grew up in NOLA, so we had a good rapport. He also is studying accounting and we are both CPA's. It went smoothly and I would recommend this dealer.

    I think dealing on the last day of the month helped.

    It was late when we drove our car home, so the salesman offered to walk us through setting up the technology options Saturday afternoon. He spent at least an hour and a half setting our phones up, showing us how to do the voice recognition speed dial, Honda link and Aha, and setting up Sirius radio stations. He was very patient.

    Thanks all of you for posting so much info. We tried the internet route with the Passat back in early October and it was fruitless. I don't think we got the best deal ever on the Acoord but I was trying to pay close to invoice, and was satisfied that I only paid $156 for the dealer add ons.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Thanks Brian, but unless there is a manufacturers incentive on a lease, the dealer would not be motivated to give you any break on the cap cost that he wouldn't give in a purchase. To the dealer, it's only a matter who is paying him for the sale so if you were able to get him to go way under invoice on a lease, he would do it for a purchase too.
    I do suggest that anyone looking for a car that maintains it's value and would therefore have a high residual, such as a Camry LE or an Accord LX (as opposed to an Accord Touring) and will not put a lot of miles on it to consider leasing. For the past several years, you could lease an LE or LX, throwing all the fees in the lease, for about $250 a month. Purchasing would be about $22,000. It would take 88 months of lease payments to get to $22,000 and considering the time value of money, even longer. And if you financed the purchase, it would be around 9 years. Sure, your 8 or 9 year old Accord would still be worth a few thousand, but you would have been paying any repairs yourself after year 3. Had you been leasing, you would be on your third new car, probably one with a new re-design, and you would never even be driving a car that was 3 years old.
  • gee22,

    I would like to know what you think about the following arrangement.
    I am leasing a Honda Accord EX-L V-6 with Nav for $460/month with ZERO downpayment and only paying the first months lease. The residual is $19,050 after a three year lease and 12K/year. The cap costs is $30,260. I think the MF and residual is the same for any Honda dealer and there are no incentives that I know of at this time.
    Appreciate you and brian125 thoughts about the above.
  • idealbrainidealbrain Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    Could you pls share the dealer info and the sales rep name. Thank you
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,142
    You need to fill in the blanks on this deal then use the leasing formula to see if your lease deal matches the monthly numbers.. I would listen to every thing Gee has been posting he is dead on about leasing. Try checking out the Honda forum from Edmunds on leasing you will learn alot.

    1st- Your cap cost-- Is this the lowest Negotiated price or are you taking the dealers numbers.. Neg your lowest price on this vehicle. At Worst case your Cap cost should be dealers Invoice price plus dealers fee's and taxes. Find out about excessive wear and tear on your vehicles return.... Tires, sratches, dings,, etc. they will hit you hard on return if you dont keep there car in good standing..

    2- You cant Think--- Call Dealer and get the Dec, MF/ and residual they are using on this deal.......... Apply the leasing formula for pricing

    Good luck............. Brian

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Brian,

    The cap costs is 30,117 and the MF is .00165. The residual for the lease of 36 months and 12K/year at 58% is $19,058. Applying the leasing formula with those numbers gives me a lease figure in the low $400's/month so something is missing in all of this. I have added a few accessories that add about $12/month to that number but still no where near what lease figures I have gotten from three dealers!!!
    Thanks Brian for your input.
  • idealbrainidealbrain Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    Got a quote on 2013 Accord EXL for $27,297 out the door with CT sales tax and Honda's destination charge included! The only fee not included is CT registration fee.

    I guess the registration would be less than $200. So the final OTD will be around $27500. Is this a good deal?
  • How would anyone know if it is a good deal or not, you are not providing the necessary information to decide if it is a good deal. If you read through some of the pages back, it will clearly state that when one asks for opinion of a deal, he should tell the price in detail

    Any Dealer addons
    Agreed price (including delivery)
    Dealer fees
    Tax rate in your state

    Coming and giving an OTD price and asking for opinion will only waste the valuable time of the members reading the post and trying to figure out your actual cost on the car!
  • Thanks for the response. I thought the OTD price is the one which finally matters more than the breakup price. That was the price i got from the dealer without breakup. I will try to get the breakup price.
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