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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Thanks for letting me know! The salesman made it seem like the best deal ever, but I was skeptical.

    I have another dealer offering $22,665 (plus TT&L) for a 2013 Honda Accord EX coupe 4 cylinder automatic, so the total would be $24,081.

    I wanted to offer $22,500 and see if they would take it, so after taxes the car would be $23,906. Sounds pretty good to me...should I take it?
  • gbynissangbynissan Posts: 1
    Hi emily, did you get your car yet ? Im in Arlington, texas. Im about to get a EX coupe 4 cylinder on memorial day. i got a quote from vandergiff in arlington for 23.600 + tax + title + docs fee. if you got your car before memorial day please lets me know whats your OTD price.
  • pjsantospjsantos Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm out here in Indiana and I'm looking into getting a sport model as well. Do you mind if I ask which dealership in Illinois you got the 21500 price?
  • colinsmithcolinsmith Posts: 2
    I am looking to lease a honda accord 2013 LX CVT, the msrp the dealer is quoting me is 23270 which i know is higher than the dealer invoice.
    He quotes a monthly payment of 230$/mth with a 0 down policy but does say that at the time of pick up, i will put 1431$ down, which includes title, registration, document, tire,fees .
    Not sure if this is a good deal?
    need some insight ???
  • colinsmithcolinsmith Posts: 2
    I am looking to lease a 2013 lx automatic as well, with a 0 down and 36 mth lease, i was told today the mthly payment will be 230$ a month , doc fee bank fee reg fee will be a initial payment of 1431$, he quoted a msrp of 23270.
    does this sound like a fair price to u or am i getting conned
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,890
    edited May 2013
    Invoice price plus the $790 destination charge is= 21,369.

    A good leased deal on your LX model should be 1000 below invoice price 20,369.... or more on your model. This price excludes any cash incentives for leasing that you need to add onto that number.

    Go to Accord leasing forum and make sure you have May's Money factor and Residual rates.. Have every dealer you call or visit work price off your numbers NOT HIS INFLATED NUMBERS for the sale.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • buyer157buyer157 Posts: 40
    Hi all - so, after a couple of more phone calls, I'm at a price of 500 under invoice with Honda flex cash. Essentially I'll get a bill of sale at Invoice and they will credit the 500$ toward my monthly payments (at .9%). No prepayment penalty if I decide to pay the entire thing off.

    No extra options, but does include 1 year of scheduled maintenance. There will be no dealer fees added on, just TTL.

    Dealer seems decent and has a good reputation.

    Looking for some input from folks in the north east/mid atlantic region as to whether or not I can expect to do much better than this.

    Thanks in advance for the help!
  • accord679accord679 Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    Purchased 2013 Accord EX CVT Sedan White/Ivory today at Spreen Honda Redlands, CA.

    How did I do?

    Price: 22680.00
    Flex Cash : -500
    Doc Fee : 80.00
    MVSC : 29.00
    Vehicle License Fees : 148.00
    Registration Fee : 100.00
    CA Tire Fee : 8.75
    Tax : 1820.80
    APR : 1.9% 60 months
    OTD : 24366.55
  • txaggie9txaggie9 Posts: 3
    Hi guys,

    How much do you think we should expect to pay for a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L? The dealership that we went to had a car EX-L 4 cylinder with a sticker price of $30,800, with some dealer options like the trunk tray, door lining, mud guards, window-tint. I know it's no way close to justifying the high cost. Can you please tell much how much would be a reasonable base price and whether the base price should include the destination fee etc? Also how much is a reasonable out of the door cost with TTL?

    Thanks in advance!
  • slercherslercher Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    Invoice is 26400, most dealers will sell for about 26 after flex cash. Hard to find -1000 off invoice but doable in some regions. Good luck. I want one also.

    Speaking of which, has anyone found an EXL in the last week 1000 below invoice. It's almost time. If anyone wants to do a double deal, let me know.
  • rocklirockli Posts: 11
    Good deal! Congratulations!
  • I've started to shop around for a new car and have found that the new Accord really gets me all the bells and whistles I want and some that I don't really need, but what the heck.

    I have an initial offer from a dealer that breaks down as follows:

    Sticker: $30,785
    Offer Price: $27,500
    Title Processing: $2
    Fee State Registration: $38
    1 Yr Registration Processing: $3
    Registration Fee: $21
    Lien Fee: $2
    State Sales Tax: $2048.75
    OTD: $29,587
  • txaggie9txaggie9 Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply. You are right; I was thinking that maybe something between 25500-26000 may be possible. Given the sticker price, I think it may be difficult to get the dealer to go lower than that. Good luck with your car shopping!
  • 336mil336mil Posts: 8
    In the Chicago area, $26,000 is the lowest any dealers will go right now. You might get them to give you a "we'll beat your best offer by $100 or $200" discount and lock in $25,800 (that includes the destination charges) but they won't move lower than that. Other areas of the country may be different but I'd be surprised.
  • txaggie9txaggie9 Posts: 3
    Quite honestly, I think that's going to be the case here too. Although, there are some folks earlier in the forum, who have reported buying at a negotiated sales price that is somewhat at higher difference as compared to the invoice (for various trims. some of these deals were in VA I think). Thanks for your feedback on this.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,890
    edited May 2013
    So what your saying is In Chicago the exl-4 you might be able to get for 599 below invoice if your buying at 25,800 w dest/ charge. Then minus your dealers doc fee's and thats the true price below invoice you would be paying. Many years of buying experience tells me you could do better. You need to know how and when to play this game.

    Your market price should be lower. What would be the only way to find out????

    Read my prior post on Calling many dealerships on the last days of this month with your price to buy... Plant the buying seed in every Internet Managers head. Tell every dealership you call or email 1000 below invoice price gets your business that moment. Do not step into any dealership. Negotiate by phone 1st for price.. If by may, 31 you cant get 1000 below invoice make your best possible deal closest to that number. By holding out to the end of the month you most likely will have 1 or more of those dealerships lower there price. Dealerships that need to make the sales incentive numbers will sell lower that day / than earlier in the month.

    The more dealerships you get involved.. The better you will do.

    Good luck ............ post your deal

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • I got a quote for $22,665 from Mcdavid Honda Irving for the 2013 Honda Accord Coupe EX automatic 4 cyl.

    I am going to the Frisco David Mcdavid Honda dealer and going to try to get the car for $22,500 (including destination fee) so after TT&L I should be at $23,906.

    I hope I can get them to agree!
  • slamshifterslamshifter Posts: 42
    Brian125 I don't mean to nitpick but it's not clear in your post because one or another of the words "of" and "or" are missing. Did you mean to say a good leased deal (on the Accord LX automatic) would be $20369 or would it be $1000 less than 20369 or 19369?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,890
    edited May 2013
    Let me clear that up

    I posted earlier:

    LX Invoice price plus dest/charge of $790= 21,369

    minus 1k off that price = 20,369

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • slamshifterslamshifter Posts: 42
    Thank you sir!
  • buyer157buyer157 Posts: 40
    Hi all- This thread has been exceedingly helpful.

    Would recommend anyone read it. Brian's comments have been great.

    While I've gotten the price down on a 2013 Sport from original bids of around 23500 down to around 22500 (with 500 flex cash) I can't seem to break through to the 1000 -1200$ below invoice that some others have seemed to achieve. I'm basically at invoice and using the flex cash to come down below that.

    I'm seeing people get closed out on the EX for around 22500, while the invoice is over 1100 higher....OR getting the LX for at least 1500 less.

    Not sure if this is due to oversupply of the LX and EX vs the Sport package or if being in lower NY, perhaps this is a regional thing?

    That said, as long as everyone else isn't paying 5-600$ less then me, I don't think I'm getting an unfair deal.

    I'm inclined to wait another day or two, but my issue is that I'm fairly particular about a color choice and it is probably worth a coupe of hundred for me not to lose it.

    Any final thoughts for me? If anyone has been quoted lower at a dealer in the Lower NY/LI/ Lower Connecticut, Lower NJ region, I'd love to know.

    Thanks all.
  • brsbrsbrsbrs Posts: 2

    I am planning to buy my first car, please sb help me, I got the online quote

    $25,679.00 and

    Dealer Document Preparation Charge +$587
    Taxes, Tag and title fee on top of it.

    Is this a good deal? or still I have to negotiate further to this... I am looking for financing and in the incentives it shows 0.9 to 1.9% financing for 36 Months..
  • mjk14mjk14 Posts: 12
    I am located in central jersey and recently received the following offer for sport model with added leather

    790 destination fee
    359 doc fee
    95 reg
    .07% NJ tax
    24781 total

    Hope this helps
  • Went to the David McDavid Honda in Frisco,TX today and I got the price I wanted: $22,500 for a 2013 Honda Accord EX coupe automatic, 4 cyl.

    HOWEVER... they added $800 for some accessory package, $300 for tinting and $300 for door edging. I didnt want any of that stuff and my OTD price is now just under $25,800.

    I didnt want to pay more than $25,000 but they dealer wouldnt accept $25,000. I got another quote for $25,400 at the Lewisville Honda dealer, so if the Frisco Honda dealer calls me tomorrow, should I tell them about the new quote I got and try to negotiate down to $25,200....or should I be firm about wanting to pay no more than $25,000?

    Any good tips on how to get the dealer to go down a few hundred more after they say "they cant go any lower"????

    Thanks for the help!
  • ziggy25aziggy25a Posts: 24
    These "mandatory" ad on packages are one of the more classic dealer tricks to inflate their profit. The value of those extras is probably worth more like $500, that is IF you wanted them. Personally, I would not even "bargain" them down on this car. The pricing with the options is so inflated that even a few hundred less you are still paying way too much, in my opinion.

    The only way these extras would be "mandatory" if if they are already on the car, and there are no others in stock in that color, and that is your color of choice. Even then, a decent dealer would arrange a swap with another dealer to get another car in without the extras on it for you.

    When you say you got your price, you really didn't. They could just as easily quote you $21,000 for the car and charge you $2,900 for the extras. Would you really think then that you were paying 21k for the car then?

    I assume you are a woman. Are there any men you know (or family), who could go in there and bargain for the same car? Sad to say, but I would wager that they would get a much better deal. Personally I would not even consider buying this car with all these extras if I didn't want them.

    Have you tried other dealers? Have you tried pricing sites like Carwoo? Are you a Costco member? These are all ways of getting some leverage on pricing.
  • You have to put one dealer against the other. if you have anything on paper showing the $22,500 show it to the other dealer. If you don't, tell the other dealer you got the quote for 22,500 and see if they match it.
    As for the extras just tell them you won't buy the car with these.
    I'm assuming they did not install them. Also, They will try to sell you the extended warranty when you are with the finance guys. The warranty is way overpriced and you can go to online Honda warranty dealers which is the same exact warranty from Honda itself. Look up "Honda care", Hyannis honda has a good one.
    I think saccucci in Nj is another.
    You will be able to get the price right online and know it ahead of time.
  • Each time I have gone to the dealer, I have had my boyfriend or father with me, and they have been very helpful, but the Frisco dealer is insisting he cant go any lower than about $25,800 OTD.

    I got another quote this morning from Mcdavid Honda of Irving. Their offer is $25,244 OTD. That is getting close to what I want to pay ($25,00).

    I really want to give the business to the Frisco Mcdavid because I really like the salesman, so if they call, I want to tell them about the new quote I got for $25,244 and see if they will meet me in the middle which would be around $25,122...good plan?
  • I would say yes, but call the salesman and tell him if he can beat the price by $100 then you have a deal. Then take whatever he gives you as long as it is lower or equal to 25244. This way he knows the deal can be closed. If they can't match 25,244 then despite ur like for the salesman, it's about your money firs and foremost. Is he a friend? If not Don't worry about it.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,890
    May i chime in and make a suggestion on your buying/ wording method.

    1st you have to be in control of the Conversation and Negotiations about price. Not the other way around thats why alot of you are having trouble with getting that price.. Dealers treat most people like they are suckers. If your not in control of the pricing negotiations

    You cant be waiting for a dealers price. You have to let them know for xxx price on this model i buy today. Thats it..... Conversation over. Your answer from each dealer is yes or no. Plant the seed in every dealers head about price/model and option you want then move on. Pit one dealer against the next. Someone will meet or beat your price. The more dealers you get involved the better you will do.

    Here is a example of what you should be telling each dealer you call or visit.....

    I am looking to buy this model with these Options for xxx price . i have several dealerships who are at this price but have to travel further away from my house than i want. Do you want this sale today????
    If you meet or beat my price on my model i buy from you today. I plan on buying this vehicle in a couple of days. When they say i cant match or come close to that price i always let that dealer know...the names of 5 or 6 dealers that are further away with that pricing.. Pit one dealer aganist the next.. Play the game.Target high volume dealerships that are further away and try to nail down that price with the dealerships that are closest to your house.. Today is a great time to start your buying process.. Plant the seed about pricing in these dealers heads and wait til the last 2 days of the month to pull the trigger.. Unless a dealer meets your price.

    i see some posts above and your 200 to 500 off what you want to pay. just hold out til may 30/31 getting several dealerships involved and you should hit your target price.........

    Phone Negotiations is where you can contact 20/ 30 dealerships in no time and plant your sales pitch and number that earns your business to each of the Internet sales mgrs.. Stay out of those dealerships its wasted time. negotiate prices on phone 1st.
    Good luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • While I agree with your method, I think it might be too complicated for EmilyNicole. I thought she said she got the price she wanted or very close to it, no? Sounds like she is close to a deal so why start from scratch? I could be wrong. KISS - keep it simple stupid is what my old ball coach use to say. Bring it home Emily, have confidence and if you get to within a hundred bucks, make the deal & just enjoy the car. Brian is correct, don't wait around which is why I said to call the dealer. Keep the conversation short and to the point. The longer they talk the better it is for them. Tell them that if they meet a certain otd price, you'll be in to sign a deal asap. they love knowing the bottom line otherwise they know your going to shop the number around to other dealers which they hate.
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