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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013

    good post.. I'd like to add to it. If you call your targeted dealerships its always best to ask first that dealerships doc fee charge and ask if they have flex cash to give not leading onto anything but i am considering a honda Accord at the end of the month. Make your list get a pad . Now that you know what dealerships have flex you could do as above poster suggested. Might work for alot of you guys.

    If you read some of my posts the way i like to buy is being very direct with these internet mgrs. I find when you play stupid you get stupid.

    So if i'm buying a Accord this month i'm calling each dealership working directly with each internet/ sales manager the last days of the month. In this phone call i'm outlining my price to buy that day along with his "flex cash "added to my asking price. i know that dealers doc fee charge . I let him know this and thats how i arrive at my price. I tell him about several dealerships pricing around him . i let him know i could buy out of state for xxx price but i would like to buy from him.. I put him on the spot.. Do you want this sale today. if dealer tells me my asking price is to high

    Then I challenge him right there to give me is best offer closest to my target price. if he counters my offer i tell him if i dont get my price i will consider it. then move on. If any dealership cant counter my offer i toss him out he lost my business. i continue down the line with my targeted dealerships.

    Knowledge of pricing and how to talk to these guys puts you in the drivers seat.

    If i have a 2 min conversation with you and by then you cant answer my questions I'm going to tongue lash you. If a dealer says listen brian here's the best my dealership can do right now then that dealer i could respect. dealerships full of b.s. probably deserved my wrath for thinking i'm one of those morons walking in his store and the first thing you want to show me is how good the radio is or truck space. Stupid gets stupid . So if i call 20 dealerships 8 maybe full of bs. 3 are not internet friendly the rest is where i try and make my deal. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do getting your target price.

    Hope this helps you

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • adamr1adamr1 Posts: 43
    Very true. To simplify, it is about supply and demand. The dealer obviously wants to get as much as possible for their car, plain and simple. To do that, they have a whole list of tactics. I have heard them all. To this day, after all the cars I have bought, the best was the salesman who was going to take money out of his paycheck to give me towards the car, to get the price lower. He told me how much he wanted me to have that car. That story is tough to beat.

    My experience shows that you almost always need to walk out. Or at least act as you are walking out. Or in this case, end the call. These people are so experienced in trying to convince you that you have the lowest price.

    But today with the internet, some know better. Others don't. For every person who thinks $500 off MSRP is a steal, there is one of us who gets the car for 1,500 or so under invoice. In the end, the dealer is making plenty of money.

    These similar tactics work on other things besides cars. I recently bought furniture where I walked out of the store. The salesman had my number and called me to offer me a price close to what I was looking for. I said no and ended the call. Of course, 5 minutes later he called me back and offered me my price. And he had a sale.

    Its all a game. If you remove your emotions, and act as if you don't need the car (even if you do), then price becomes the only factor. And a car at dealer A is a the same as a car at dealer B. Since they haven't invested any time in you, it is all about price.

    You are right though Brian, I have found the same, that if you are straight forward and cut to the chase, you will save yourself some time and frustration. The key as you said is to first weed out the BS. And there is so much of it out there. Remember though, the dealer wants to get as much as possible for the car. And their BS works on plenty of people, so of course they will try it. The key is to know this, expect it, plan to walk out, remain calm, and find the balance between getting a price you are comfortable with vs. investing many hours to fight for the last cent.

    Checking a dealers website for their available inventory is also one that has worked well for me. If a dealer only has 2 of the car you want, you will be most likely wasting your time.

    I must say though I never keyed in on the day of the month. Next time around I will follow your advice and do the final negotiating on the last day to see if that makes things change. Start the pricing and requests mid month, but don't get serious till the last day. I am curious to see exactly how much that makes a difference.

    I am in NJ and will be in the market for an EX V6 come early to mid next year. AS others do, I will be happy to share my experience.
  • Okay, then I guess I'm a bit confused. So I shouldn't be negotiating the "sell price" when talking about leasing? You were VERY close it seems. If I could do it for the 19,600 we're looking at right about 229. The closest dealer to me broke it down for me like this (with a higher selling price than I wanted)

    Vehicle:2013 Honda Accord Lx

    Selling Price




    Documentary fee



    $ -

    Sub Total


    Sales Tax



    Title Fee


    30 day tag




    I'm trying to get the total to closer to 21,000 to 21,500.
  • Hi everyone!
    So i made a deal on a 2013 accord EX CVT-4 for:
    $23,300 including destination fee and flex cash. I traded in my old clunker for $1000
    With tax and DMV came to $24,421.

    However: i was misinformed as to the 0.9 financing. It only applies for 36 months. If i want 60 months (which i need) its 1.9%.
    When honda calculated the payments, it came to 449 per month for 60 months.
    But when i pllugged the numbers into online car payment calculators such as

    They all said i should be paying around 427 per month! (24,421 at 1.9 for 60 mo, no money down.

    What is honda trying to pull??
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    It's definitely about the selling price. You were right on in that point. But what you are describing in your negotiations is a purchase. You show 6.5% tax on $21,249 but in Ohio, sales tax on a lease is based on the total of the monthly payments, not the total cost of the car. And where is the Honda lease inception fee of $595 in your breakdown?
    My point was that you got off to a good start of showing the salesman you know your stuff and then you appear clueless when he gives you figures that apply to a purchase and not for a lease and you don't challenge him. They sense your weakness and will continue to try to take advantage of you.
    Start fresh, visit a new dealer, and talk pure leasing.
  • Okay I definitely will.

    Any resources you would suggest?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Hopefully you have not signed the paperwork yet - what does the contract state? Indeed - 24421 financed for 60 months @ 1.9 should yield 426.98 per month. If they have you at 449, the rate is higher or something has been added to the amount financed.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • mahlerbonemahlerbone Posts: 4
    edited August 2013
    This is my first time posting here, but this forum was a great information source that helped inform my buying strategy.

    I live in Chicago and just bought a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Sedan for $26,351 minus $500 in flex cash, so a total sale price of $25,851, before all fees and taxes. I paid the $790 destination, plus the litany of taxes that goes along with buying/living in Chicago, plus standard doc and title fees for Illinois. I don't have all of those in front of me, but if anyone really needs to know, just ask.

    Considering this price is $1,651 under invoice (TrueCar), I think it is a fairly good deal. The dealer also treated me very fairly and honestly the whole time, which was a nice change of pace.

    They also paid a surprisingly large amount for my trade in - $9,000 for a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with 81,000 miles. (CarMax offered me $6,000). My pay off was less than the amount they agreed to, so it helped defray some downpayment cost, not to mention the tax savings.

    I financed for 60 months at 1.9% through Honda Financing, which is the big deal being advertised everywhere.

    Hopefully this will be a helpful data point for those still looking for a 2013. As a word of advice, it seems like the 2013 V6 models are beginning to become harder to find, particularly in the most desirable colors. If you live around Chicago, I'd plan to act before the end of Honda's sale, which concludes Sept. 3rd.
  • If you do true car screen honda in Redlands is offering it for 22480
  • Hello I am in Houston Texas. I got a quote from one dealership.
    Sell price(include destination) 22,269
    pro pack 339
    Tint 150

    Total with Taxes and fee 24,479
    Honda Fiance credit -500

    Out the door price 23,979

    I tried to tell them take the pro pack out, the saleman insisted he lowered down in the price. I think he is BS.

    Is this a good deal?
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 163
    I have purchased several Honda vehicles in Maryland. I have found Criswell, Sport, and O'Donnell provide good pricing and a fairly straight forward experience. Best to avoid College Park Honda and Ourisman Honda. In my experience those two dealers play too many games like adding expensive crap, pushing useless lifetime warranties, or high pressure turnover tactics.
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 163
    Of course you should negotiate the price on a lease. The price, capitalized cost, is one of the key pieces of a lease. The others being the residual value and money factor.

    To a dealer a lease is essentially the same as a purchase. You do not lease from the dealer. Some dealers may view a lease as a sale which has less possible profit in the F&I office. Those dealers may, therefore, try to sell at a higher price.
  • Yes, as the last poster said, you should absolutely negotiate the cap cost (aka the sale price). That is really one of the only terms you can negotiate - from everything I've heard it is either extremely difficult or impossible to negotiate the residual value or the money factor, since those are both set by Honda Finance and are uniform from dealer to dealer.

    You can and should negotiate the cap cost, because when you lease a vehicle, the dealer is still selling the vehicle - they are just selling it to the lender instead of to you. They do not care if you are buying the vehicle or your lender is buying the vehicle - it they can do a certain price for one, they can do a certain price for another.
  • Is it WITH or W/O navigation?
  • Is it WITH or W/O navigation?
  • First time poster here. I'm looking to get moving on an EX-L w/o NAV. I don't see a lot of information about Cleveland dealers, and prices around the area. A lot of this information seems related to certain areas, so I'm just wondering if I can expect similar prices here in Northeast OH, or if anyone has experience in this area.

    Also, a lot of information here revolves around using emailing for negotiation. Is it unreasonable to believe I can get similar deals at the dealership?

    I'm looking to get around $1000 - $1300 below invoice. Is that unreasonable, or could I do better? I'd like to get something by the end of the month.

    Thanks in advance!
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013
    just read thru these posts and pick a target price and negotiate. we have seen prices between 1000 to almost 1700 below invoice.. Your target price is not unreasonable at 1300 below. If dealerships doc fee charge is 200 your really paying 1100 below invoice for the Accord. Some area's are selling cheaper than others. Supply and demand will be a factor on dealerships lots. After Sept you run the risk of not getting your model and color choice.

    Do not fall into the trap of thinking you can get almost 1700 below when dealers are at 1000 to 1300 below invoice price in your area. If you use some of the tips and negotiating tools on the phone/ emailing or at the dealerships i guarantee you will get the best possible price and you will be happy with your deal.

    good luck.............. post your deal and dealers name for the forum

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Appreciate your quick response Brian. I didn't think of the Doc Fee affecting the "below invoice price" so I appreciate that thought. I'll keep that in mind during negotiations.

    I've done enough research here and elsewhere to know not to fall into the $1700 below trap. I just want to get my best deal possible without sounding like a knucklehead.

    One more question - Is it silly to go in Saturday (right before month end), and not give myself more time, or does this put a little more pressure on the dealer to make a deal?

    Thanks again.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013
    Last day buying will put the pressure on dealer and You if you really want to buy this month. Dont go that route. What happens if you drive to 3 dealerships and all of them have limited stock and two of them already meet there monthly sales quota's .. Start making calls tomm. You want to go into the last day only if you have not recieved your target price. On that last day you need to know what dealerships have your model/ color either trying again for your price or at the end lowering your price to buy that day.. Who is going to blink first. most of the time its the consumer not the dealer.

    i plan on buying a lexus truck this month. As i have posted in this forum i called 25 dealerships in and around the new york n.j. area gathering info. There is no need to try and buy today. I want every dealerships full attention that means friday afternoon i start my calls to the internet Managers. I proceed to buy like i posted in here. If i do not make a deal friday i shoot for Sat. I have sent my cousin down to 4 dealerships to look on dealers lots for his model. We will target those dealerships first. Being we are buying a 2013 model pricing will be right at our target price. if we do not get it we will buy at the end of Sept, Only this time we will adjust our price to buy that month if our target price cant be had. We gave ourselves 2 months to nail our price down and a target date to buy regardless of pricing.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Posts: 165
    In terms of resources, I suggest you take a look at gmanusmc and my posts in the leasing forum.
    In any case, since you lose everything you pay at signing if the car is totalled or stolen, I advise you to put everything into the lease (selling price/doc fees/lease inception fee/DMV fees/Sales tax) and get 36 equal payments.
    Check out the formula for calculating the monthly lease amount so you can keep the dealer honest.
    I see everyone is telling you to negotiate the sales price but I think you already knew that.
    Good luck
  • parislparisl Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Subaru Forester that is in fine working order, but I'm
    looking to switch to a sedan. I've had good experiences with Hondas in
    the past, so somewhat reflexively have been thinking of an Accord, and
    have been considering the 2011/2010 years, for purchase. My aim is to
    have whatever car I get for ten years or more. Generally it's going to
    be just for the work commute, which is not long. I get my cars
    serviced religiously, don't do any work on them myself.

    My aims:
    1. Safety is #1 by a wide margin
    2. Reliability (minimum lost time for unscheduled work on the car) is #2
    3. Overall costs of ownership/lease, use and maintenance/repairs is #3
    (things like terminal/resale value belong in here)
    Nothing else really matters to me.

    1. When would you go for lease versus purchase? When does leasing make sense, in general?
    2. Is there a sedan which has better prospects for safety and
    reliability than the Honda Accord that I should consider?
    3. How to get the best deal - looking for strategy and tactics
    4. Is it better to get a new car or used car (balancing aims #2 and #3)
  • Hi BlueMKN,

    I know it's been a while we're back and for on the EXL CVT pricing, where are you with pricing right now, what's the lowest OTD you have received?

    The reason I am asking is we're about to settle for my friend tomorrow, at 27.450 OTD, sale was about 2K less with tax, doc and DMV, less flex came to 27,450.

    Brian, I think the 24.5K sale price was by far a strech, even at 25K very few offers. I was aiming for 27K OTD on the 2013 EXL CVT Accord but no luck I guess this time.

    Tomorrow we're going to the dealer, and going through with this. Comments??

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013
    Buying a new car is one of the worst investments one can make. A nice Luxury it is. With depreciation values, wear and tear ,repairs over the coarse of yrs its not a good investment . Buying a 3 yr old model would make the most sense financially. Honda has a great reputation on quality, build, resale value.

    Check out edmunds home page on lease vs buying. everybody has a different take on it. Whether you buy new or used again its your choice. Its always nice to buy new. Can i afford a new car is your question. You cant lease a vehicle for 10 yrs.

    Good luck.. check out consumer reports for reliable models over the years.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013
    why are you giving us otd.. give me Invoice price on that model and how much below your at. i think i posted earlier your numbers were off or to low.

    why are you in such a rush to close tomm????????????

    wait til friday or sat

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • suydamsuydam Posts: 4,110
    Hondas don't depreciate much so you may find that a new Accord may make more financial sense, especially a 2013 just as the 2014s start to come in. You will get better financing too. The 2013s are also a huge improvement with a lot more features even on the base model LX than previously.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • Sale price 25590 for the 2013 Honda Accord EXL Sedan CVT. Person that is buying won't be available after Thursday as they going away for the weekend.
    Thoughts, thoughts please?
  • Brian, I will disagree with you a little bit here due to the following:

    Last year I was looking to buy a certified Honda and the price wasn't that much lower due to low depreciation, and the interest rate was much higher compared to the new car purchase. That combined with the new car offers, and being anew car, I went with the new car purchase. Over 10 years, like the prior speaker said, I think it makes much more sense to buy a new car and have piece of mind. that was me in any case, I am sure you can make a different argument as well. Julian
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    your buying at 809 below invoice..

    26,399 is invoice w dest charge.

    What area is this. What thoughts are you looking for. If you contacted your targeted dealerships and thurs is the buying deadline for your friend make the deal. Minus the dealerships doc fee's off that 809 number and thats where your at for sale price.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    You make good points i agree. That post is all over the map with new, used, lease. Sounded to me he was leaning for a used.

    i did not know what to make out of that post. LOL

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,224
    edited August 2013
    You make good points i agree. That post is all over the map with new, used, lease. Sounded to me he was leaning for a used.

    i did not know what to make out of that post. LOL

    Pre certified Accord lx............. 2010

    You would be saving 10 to 11 k off the original sale price buying a 3 yr old Accord.

    please note the new Accord is so much better than previous model yrs.

    If you go from point A to point B you might not care about updated features.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

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