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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Accessories and Modifications

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  • mharrymharry Posts: 11
    Anybody know anything about the replacement headlights from Matrix Racing? They have the halo rings and 2 round lamps. They look real cool, but the reflectors aren't fluted, I'm over 40 and night blindness is becoming an issue. The last thing I need to do is drive around with flashlights for headlights!
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    Does anybody know where we could get a set of tube steps for the Trailblazer that conform to the shape of the rocker panel from immediately behind the front wheel all the way to the area directly in front of the real wheel? I've seen a few on the web that were simply straight, and so were set away from the rocker panel directly below the doors (because of the way the wheel wells bulge out the ends hold the rest away). I've seen two vehicles, one a Trailblazer and the other an Envoy in the area, but both were in the middle of traffic, so I was unable to ask the owners where they found theirs at.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    After much calling around and searching the internet for pictures of customized trailblazers, I found an image of a show truck from the SEMA 2001 Las Vegas, NV show with the "Goin' Mobile Trailblazer".

    This truck had exactly the same type of tube steps as I've been looking for. Doing a bit more digging, and I found the site for the company that created the show truck, and on that site a group of pages on the truck in question. There I found information that indicated that Go Rhino! made the steps used on the truck.

    Searching for Go Rhino! tube steps for the Trailblazer, the closest product I could find was the 4000 Series Sumatra Sidesteps. But there were NO pictures of these anywhere. So after several telephone calls and an e-mail I finally managed to get in touch with the Go Rhino! tech named 'Pete'. He said that the 4057C, 4057B, and 4057PS were the steps I was interested in (Chrome, Black, and Polished Stainless). He also looked up a supplier that I could get them through.

    So now I've got an order in through J.C. Whitney for the polished stainless steps. I also placed an order through another online site for the Go Rhino! lighted step pads, which are supposed to be direct fit replacements for the standard step pads on all Go Rhino! side step products.

    I'll post an update once I receive the steps (I'm still nervous that they'll turn out to be the nerf-style steps that are what you get in the 4000 series for most other vehicles).
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    The sidesteps arrived at my door yesterday. Needless to say, I acted mature as befitted a 4 year old with an Easter basket full of candy and wasted no time opening them up to check out the goods. The Sumatra 4000 series for the Trailblazer (4057C, 4057B, and 4057PS, as listed above) are the steps I was looking for. They are shaped to follow the contour of the quarter panel / wheel arch flares. Happy ME!

    The lighted steppads that I ordered for them came in the day before yesterday. I didn't have the steps themselves in yet, but I tentatively opened one of the packages (2 pads per box) and extracted the installation instructions. Besides the fact that there isn't much detail in the instructions, I was able to make sense of most of what they say. It's a fairly simple job to remove the old step pads and put the new ones on in their place (stringing the wires for the lights into holes in the tubes under the pads). They then indicate that the wires should be pulled through the leading end of the tube and through a hole drilled in their mounting bracket on the truck frame. This is fine and dandy for the nerf style bars that make up most of the GoRhino 4000 series (for other vehicles), since the leading edge of the tube is directly against the mounting bracket / vehicle frame, and out of sight.

    Unfortunately for me, since the steps are the style I wanted, if I follow the directions for installing the lighted steppads explicitly, there'll be some ugly exposed wires sticking out of the front of the otherwise great-looking tube steps. The other alternative is to drill a hole in the tube steps near / beside the mounting bracket (and out of sight unless you get under the truck), route the wires through that, and somehow seal the hole around the wires (I'm thinking rubber grommits + silicone caulk or RTV). The bad part about the workable method is that it voids the 'Limited Lifetime Warranty' GoRhino proves on the Polished Stainless steps (5 years for the anodized black or chrome steps). At least, I think it does. Still waiting on word on that part back from their tech person, who I e-mailed about this situation. I may end up returning these steppads and doing without the extra-cool looking lighting. Sad ME. :(
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    I finally managed to both be off work in time and to remember soon enough to call the GoRhino Customer Service number about the lighted step pads. Turns out that drilling a couple small holes for the purpose of installing those lighted pads doesn't void the warranty. After speaking with customer service, I talked to their techs, and was told that:

    1) I'd need a drill bit that is harder than usual (or something like a carbide bit that I can chuck after I finish).
    2) I need to tape off the wiring where it exits through the hole with electrical tape. This is to prevent the wire from "chaffing" against the edge of the tube and getting cut / shorting out. He also recommended using some silicone sealant around the wires. When I told him that I was considering using some of the good rubber grommits (available from Radio Shack stores), along with some silicone caulk / sealant, he said that it should work fine.

    So Now I'll be looking to drill out the tubes for the wiring, probably somewhere very close to one of the two welded mounting supports on the bars. But before I do that, I have to talk to my local Chevy dealer to see what the best place to tap into the 12v courtesy lighting circuit is (and how, since nearly all the electrical systems on the trailblazer are linked through the data bus in some form or other, and I don't want to screw some electronics up during this install).
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    Got my marker lights the other day! I don't know how a little bit of plastic and some wire can cost so stinkin much. More like a profit margin of 10,000%. Now I gotta drill my some holes and run some wire.

    Also got my new carputer sitting here for loading all my MP3z and GPS software. Once my bank account has recovered from the two purchases, I've got to obtain an LCD touchscreen.
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    I was sizing up my carputer yesterday under the rear passenger-side seat and noticed a flap in the carpet. I opened it and found a wiring harness. Next to the flap was a rectangular depression with a hole for wires. What do I not have that goes there!

    Another thing. I took the pleasure of blowing the 125amp Mega fuse up on the front fuse panel. While replacing it I noticed a thin red wire that had been pulled back and hooked to a wire bundle clamp as though someone were trying to keep it from making contact again. It's got a connector on it that fits perfectly on a post at the corner of the fuse panel next to the left of Mega fuse. Is this wire supposed to be disconnected? I'm wondering if a mechanic forgot the reattach it.

    This is on a 2002 LS.

    Thanks for the help!!!
  • mharrymharry Posts: 11
    Mines exactly the same, 03 tb ltz. The only options I don't have are the sunroof and dvd system. I suppose the answer would lie in the Helm manual, I seem to have $120.00 for alot of things, but not that. Hey if that's the computer, what's on the other side?
  • adamjeepsadamjeeps Posts: 56
    If this wire you refer to is under the hood I would guess it is the trailer brake control wire that is used for trailer brakes while towing.
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    I found out that the loose wire under the hood is for trailor battery charging. They intentionally leave it disconnected but still make it available if needed.

    The box attached to the rear fuse panel is the computer...I think. I was refering to my Carputer. I'm installing a Mini-ITX computer under the other seat. It's got a 40G drive to hold all my MP3s and GPS software. I'll mount a touchscreen LCD somewhere up in front to control it. Sound will get to the radio through an FM mod I'm using for my XM.

    http://www.mini-itx.com/store/default.asp?c=2&currency=2
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    I got my marker lights installed and they look pretty sweet. Though it was a little scary using the holesaw on the roof.
  • kgbkahnkkgbkahnk Posts: 89
    Can you give some explicit details of the install?

    Part #'s?
    How much did they cost you? From whom?
    From where did you get power?
    How/where are they switched?

    Tell me more about this drilling/sawing!!! I'm thinking that even if I could get the parts for free, the drilling and/or sawing might prevent me from ever installing.

    Sorry for all the questions. I'm very interested in pursuing this, but just don't know if I've got the rocks.
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    The part numbers are 15163401, 15163402 and 15163404.

    The first two are the left and right lenses. The third is the wiring harness and you'd need two of them. The total price was $158.94 through GMPartsDirect.com. It costs twice as much through the dealer.

    The '02 TB has a screw hole in the front mount of each rack rail that is not used. I used this for the placement of the roof holes. You'll want to remove the rails, of course, and you'll see the three screw holes with the center one not used. Using a 1" holesaw, you center on where that screw would go. I used WD-40 as a cutting oil to keep the heat down and lube the saw.

    When you have the holes drilled, you might want to then run the wire. I decided to run a wire on either side from the brake lights. I used wire tap clips so I wouldn't have to cut wire and void anything. Pull the panels back on either side to expose the wiring harness going to the brake lights. Hook your neg to the ground that is screwed into the body. On the right side you'll need to tap into the brown/white wire and then brown wire on the left for the positives. Run the wires up to the ceiling and down to your holes. To get the grab handles detached, open the coveres and you'll find a little plastic clip inside. Pushing it to the side will release the handle.

    This all would be a lot easier to describe with pictures.

    Bring your wires up through the holes and splice into your wiring harness. I soldered the ends together and wrapped them in shrink tubing. Push the rubber gasket on the harness into the hole. Widen the holes in your roof rack gasket and the rack mount so you can get the bulb through. You should now be all wired up.

    Now, the aluminum tracks in the rack are a little bit too long in the '02 and '03 TB for the lenses to fit. You'll need to cut 1.25" off the forward end. Don't cut the wrong end! File the edge down so it won't cut the wire from vibration. Re-attach your rack and slide on the cross pieces. Stick the bulbs into the lenses, lock into place and snap the lenses down.

    It's as easy as that!
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    I forgot to mention that the lights will only come on with your parking and headlights. They will not run during the day, blink with your blinkers or turn on with the brakes.

    The drilling kinda freaked me out at first but it was no big deal.
  • kgbkahnkkgbkahnk Posts: 89
    Awesome. Excellent information! Thanks for the details. I must say that I'm really freaked out over the drilling. You wouldn't want to drive to KC to install this for me, huh? Nah, didn't think so.

    I'll let you know when I screw up enough courage to jump into this project. Thanks again.
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    Why not? You're only a state away. J/k....Why don't you just drive to me?

    The drilling wasn't that big of a deal. Produced a horrible noise though. If you are afraid of leaks, you can get some RTV sealant to put around the rubber thingy before you push it into the roof hole.

    Here is a picture of the various parts. I wish it were bigger but Yahoo has resrtictions.

    http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ericmevans/detail?.dir=/Eric%27s- +Pictures&.dnm=705b.jpg
  • ericevansericevans Posts: 33
    Well I've got a picture of this plus now.

    I have the depression outlined with the green rectangle.

    http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ericmevans/detail?.dir=/Eric%27s- +Pictures&.dnm=d9af.jpg
  • dpacasladpacasla Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 TrailBlazer LS. I am looking to install an overhead console (has travelnote and homelink, no sunroof switch) that I got from a 2002 LT. I also have the harness that interconnects these components together within the console, as well as the retainer unit that attaches the console to the roof.

    I am concerned as to whether there is a factory harness connector above the liner that I can plug into for the console. Has anyone taken off their liner in their LS? If so, was there a console harness connection up there somewhere? I hate to go through the whole liner removal only to be disappointed. Any input would be SO appreciated!
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    Hi everyone i got a question has anyone with a 03 trailblazer i put a fipk kit on. Did anyone have any problems?? i do know that alot of trailblazer owners have put one on. I got the one with model number 57-3036 what i am wondering really about the filter says for off road & racing only so i am curious. Can anyone let me know plus what does that mean?? or should i be worried about it let me know thanks. mook
  • The wire is for the 12v acc. in your trailer plug at the rear of the vehicle. If you are not going to be pulling a camper that would utilize this, then leave it be.
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