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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi,
    I have a load groan/grinding noise coming from the right front side of my car when I make a right turn, reversing to the right into a parking spot, and even taking curves on the highway. It's starting to scare me, I don't know what it could be..maybe my power steering or my tires, struts..Can anyone help me?

    Thank you,
  • if it only happens when u turn your steering wheel all the way to the right and then turn its your right link thats loose. its not dangereous at all but if you want the noise to go away u can change it. Just try taking wider turns in the mean time so you don't have to turn your steering wheel all the way to prevent the noise. i think its like 100$ for a new one at infiniti
  • If I replace the maf sensor, does the ecm have to be reprogrammed? The check engine light was not on. If it has to be reprogrammed, can I do it myself or do I have to take it to the shop? If I can do it myself, can someone explain to me how to do it and where the ecm is located? Thanks for all the help. Jeff
  • No it doesn't have to be reprogrammed. They just use the machine to reset your error code but if the light goes off itself its fine.
  • Sounds like your altenator. Try checking your battery life to see if its almost full (the altenator will drain it if faulty). Charge it up all the way and then try to start the car and see if it starts. If it does start then its your altenator that's not working anymore and your car is just choking on electricity. The clicking sound is because your battery is completely drained, due to your altenator.
  • That's how the sound started out but it has gotten worse now it's starting to do it at even the smallest turns I don't even have to turn the steering wheel too much and it's way louder. It's still like a groan/creak/grind.I'm worried it's my power steering or something else that's expensive.
  • 2000 I30, 160000 miles. driving 75 mph down the interstate with cruise on, about 3100 rpms. crest a hill and engine backs off to maintain speed, then suddenly, rpms jump to 4200 rpms and maintains 70 mph. when breaks are tapped to disengage cruise, rpms fall to 1000 and car is coasting. no feel of any acceleration or compression untill back up to about 4000 rpms. 600 mile trip, gas mileage fell from 29 mpg to 21 mpg. I've seen a couple posts similar to this indicating that it may be the variable speed sensor. when looking on-line for the part, i only find ABS (anti-lock breaking system?) speed sensors (1 each for front left and right and rear left and right). Anyone know where the variable speed sensor is, what it costs, (abs speed sensors go for about 150.00 each) and how to replace it. Thanks for the input.
  • chpccmchpccm Posts: 4
    Same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago....Took it to a Nissan dealership....put it on computer and replaced the speed sensor for $301.25.....sensor was $150 I believe.
  • I have a 1996 I30,I noticed today coolant leaking from front side of engine.I figure it's the waterpump leaking.Does anyone know how to go about changing the pump or where to get a manual to change it.I have mechanical back round and not afraid to tackle it.To look at a picture of the pump shows the timing chain drives it.
  • tbo452tbo452 Posts: 1
    I've seen lots of posts about starting problems, and I would like to know if there is a way to bypass/check/test the Ignition Switch before getting a new one.
  • I had to have the fuel pump replaced a while back, since then the car has to cranked several times, when cold and the fuel level is low, and when the fuel light comes on it starts bucking like a bronco. I took the car back to the repair shop and they replaced the fuel regulator but this has not solved the problem, the car still does the same things described above.
  • bobflbobfl Posts: 19
    Hi, Just got a 0171 code (Lean fuel mixture in bank 1) I'm guessing that its the MAF sensor. Anyone else had this code, comments?

    2000 I30 85,000 miles

  • How do you get the back door panel off? I have disconnected the bottom pins and the side pins. I have removed the latch plastic piece but it is not coming off. I have missed something but i cannot see it.
  • bobflbobfl Posts: 19
    FYI pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it with CRC MAF sensor cleaner (really!) put it back and its running like brand new. Bet I saved $300 to $400 over "Stealer" cost.
    Got the cleaner it Pep Boys $7.99 and some Torx bits and its now all set!

  • I have an 1996 Infiniti I30 and yesterday it ran rough and would not start. I pulled the maf off and there was a lot of oil in the manifold. I checked the oil dipstick and the oil does not look milky but the oil level seems to be more than normal. My son said he did not notice any warning lights. He did say that it sounded louder than normal. What could be the problem? Blown head gasket? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Usually oil in the intake, especially if it is all the way by the MAF is from blow by. This generally happens when the piston rings are wearing and unburned fuel and oil are sucked into the crankcase or if your intake valves are worn it may get sucked back into the intake. Check your PCV valve to make sure it isn't blocked and what does your air filter look like?
  • The air filter looks fine. If it was rings or valves, wouldn't there be blue smoke leading up to that? This happened all of a sudden. Where is the pcv valve located? If that is defective, after I replace it, what do I do about the oil in the manifold? Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,585
    If you do a cylinder leakdown test, that'll answer the question as to whether you have severe internal engine wear or not. Your PCV valve could not handle the amount of oil thrown up by blow-by, even if it were working properly. A completely clogged PCV valve would cause a lot of crankcase pressure but then a clogged PCV would not allow the blow by into the intake--it would have to push out through various gaskets, causing lots of visible oil leaks.

    Replacing the PCV is a cheap and a good guess, but it reallyl doesn't answer the bigger question. You may be treating a symptom and not a cause.

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  • Hi,
    Im new to this forum, so Im sorry if I posted this in the wrong place, or if this has been discussed already.
    I just had my 1996 Infinity, I-30 in the shop to have the right side ball bearings replace and the mass air flow sensor replaced.
    I payed $500 for the repairs, drove maybe 20 minutes, had to stop at a 3way stop, when it was my turn to go, I put my foot on the gas pedal, heard a thump, it felt like something fell from the bottom of my car..and it wouldn't move, not drive, not reverse, nothing. I put on my hazards, got out of the car looked underneath because I was sure something had fallen. There was nothing there, and no leakage. I called a tow truck and had the car towed back to repair shop. They were closed so I left a note and the key in their drop box. But as the car was being dropped from the tow truck bed there was a puddle of transmission fluid on the bed of the truck.
    My question, and sorry this was such a long way of asking, is there any way the transmission could have been messed up while the repair guy was fixing the ball bearings. I want to be a little educated when I call the repair guys tomorrow and talk to them
    Any help at all in this would be so greatly appreciated!
    Debby :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,585
    Oh-oh....I wonder if he forgot to tighten up the drive axle-to-hub and to-transaxle connections. Sure sounds like it. Major screw up if that's what happened.

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  • Hi well my 2000 i30t infiniti got the service engine soon light on, so we went to AAMCO they switch 4 02 sensors , 2 front and 2 back ( for 1k which i think is ALOT)
    well the next day the light went off again it it shows the code P0171 and after fueling ar all of the random it goes off and then after like a few miles it goes on.
    I really dont want to pay another 1k dollars to any mechanic. I dont know what to do next need help asap
  • go back to aamco and yell at them. p0171 means your MAF sensor is having problems not the o2's. Its about 600$ canadian and takes about 20 mins max to install, its right at the top on the right hand side right after your air filter ( first the intake, then air filter, then maf sensor). Very easy to replace. You probably hear a little pinging sound from the engine in 2nd gear when driving. You can only buy this part from infiniti.
  • Well i heard the noise rarely so i thought it might be because of a bad fuel or something. I also read that it may can be clean instead of replaced so i can save so extra cash? if so please explain how. ;)
  • bobflbobfl Posts: 19
    I just had the same problem and fixed it for about $20.

    1) Go to to find out how to pull the MAF sensor. It requires a TORX bit on your wrench. Comes out hard due to rubber O ring but it will come out.

    2) Get a can of CRC MAF cleaner and spray away. My car now runs like new again after having code 171 errors. Let it dry, reinstall and enjoy.

  • Yeah bob is 100% right. you can clean it like that. Lots of people however have the problem reaccur after a while so they end up replacing it but since your light only comes on every now and then its sooooo much more worth it for you to clean it than to spend so much money for a new one.
  • Please bear with me as this is my first post and I know nothing about cars!

    I recently acquired a 2000 I30 from a family member who was the original owner. It has 63,000 miles and appears to be in relatively good condition. I have all the records and the car has had service at all recommended mileage intervals and oil changes every 3,000 miles.

    Before acquiring the car the Infiniti dealership near my family member performed an inspection and said there is a small leak in the real main seal, one axle seal and a crank seal. Now that I have the car back home and have used it for a few weeks, I see the small leak in the real main seal. I brought the car into the local mechanic I use and without mentioning the Infiniti dealerships findings, I had him check it out. He said the real main seal had a slight leak as well as one axle seal. He did not see a leak at the crank seal. So forgetting about the crank seal which can be done later and separately if need be, it was good to get confirmation. From underneath he also looked further up the engine and suspects a valve cover seal may be leaking too.

    The path forward that he recommended was to drop the transmission to replace the real main seal and at the same time replace both axle seals and stop there. This would cost me $493.50 for labor, plus the three seals. After a few weeks if we see any appreciable problem with the crank seal and/or the valve cover seal, we can replace them at that time as it will not cost more or less than if they were replaced while the transmission was down. he did not give me a price for the crank seal, but replacement of the valve cover seal is $321.00 for labor, plus the seal.

    I have a few questions and a concern. First, do you agree with the mechanics approach? Second, are his prices fair at $814.50 (labor for rear main seal and both axle seals and labor for valve cover seal if needed)?

    My concern is dropping the transmission sounds like a big job and I am wondering if the mechanic could cause more harm than good. Considering the leaks are minor and I can live with a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage, should I hold the work off or will the leaks get progressively worse? On one hand I say the car is 10 years old, but on the other, it only has 63,000 miles, cars require maintenance and based on the fact that I only put on 10,000 miles per year, I can see having this car for quite a while.

    Your thoughts are appreciated.

  • I had the ABS and brake lights go on while driving home. Had the alternator and battery checked and both were bad. I replaced them both and the car was fine for a little while. Then the battery and brake lights came on. Interestingly when we checked the battery voltage the following happened: positive to negative terminals - 14V, positive terminal to car metal - 14V, (and here's the interesting part) negative battery terminal to car metal - 10V (obviously since both should be negative it should be 0V). I played around with the Alternator cable (where it attaches to the Alternator) and it was apparently not on all the way. Got it fixed and it was o.k. for around a hundred miles or so. The battery and brake lights are back on now. I removed the Alternator cable again and restarted the car using just the battery and the lights went off. I believe it is the Alternator cable - I will put a new one in tomorrow and let you know.
  • my 2000 i30 stalls shortly after starting but only in park, not any other gear... i have no idea and i dont want to get ripped off by a mechanic so i was hoping someone would maybe have an idea... thanks
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    Hi Atwdrew, I have a 1996 I30 as well, with about the same mileage, and unfortunately, the exact same symptoms you are describing above (lurching, stalling, etc). I have replaced O2 and Knock sensors, as per the codes, but I am now thinking it's the IACV. The check engine light is not on since mechanic cleared the codes for the other sensors. Can you tell me if the stalling, etc stopped once you replaced the IAC? Was your ECU affected by bad IAC? Did you also have to replace the MAF? I have been dealing with this stalling issue for over 6 months and no mechanic around this tiny town can figure it out, so it's all up to me. The car runs beautiful some days, but some days it's rough and stalls, just like you described (and wants to stall on sharp turns). Additionally, my car is eating gas like crazy, so it's running too rich and too lean at times (I get black smoke out of the exhaust occassionally when she's running rough). Any suggestions from anyone? Please help and thanks!
  • You might want to try looking on IATN. It is a network of automotive technicians that post answers to all kinds of problems on all kinds of cars. There is a subscription that has to be paid, but it is well worth it.

    Also, replacing parts based solely on the Diagnostic Trouble Code is a bad idea. There is often several things that can cause a part to through a code, that may have nothing to do with the failure of that part. O2 sensors codes are a prime example. There are several things that can cause the O2 sensors to trigger a code, when the sensors are working as designed. Throwing parts at codes is often much more costly than having the car properly diagnosed and repaired.

    If your area does not have a qualified independent shop that can repair your car, you may want to try a Nissan dealer if there is one. Many times Nissan dealers will work on Infiniti's.

    Good luck with it. I know how frustrating issues like this can be.
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