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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • pnotarpnotar Posts: 5
    Have this vehicle with 148K miles. Saturday, idling at a traffic light and when it turns green, hit the gas pedal, but go nowhere. When shifting the car into various gears, hear a sound best described as "whirring/crunching". Until this occurred, I have had no issues with the transmission and done regular maintenance.

    Towed car to my mechanic, who, after inspection today, tells me the transmission is shot. Guy who works for him used to work for Infiniti and said he has seen this happen with this model...just craps out.

    In '07, I had new front struts/boots installed; in '08, I had front axles replaced. Looking for opinion as to whether to cut my losses or go ahead with refurb tranmission replacement (cost estimate $1700-$2000)?

    To further complicate matters, I am out of work, so not really in a position to replace the vehicle, at least with something at a similar level.

    On the pro side, my mechanic (who I do trust) tells me the car is in great shape otherwise and it is worth the investment. Cost wise, it is still likely cheaper to sink the above dollars in vs. a full replacement PLUS getting no value back for the vehicle.

    On the con side, just seems like I am investing more and more into a car with diminishing returns. Blue Book/online searches for this car puts the value at about $3500.

    Just looking for thoughts from those more experienced to factor into my decision making process. Thanks in advance!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I don't see where buying another used vehicle with high miles puts you in any better position, and being out of work, buying a new car seems a tad reckless (even though we all need transport!) so, based on your mechanic's evaluation of the car, I'd say go for it.

    The only other solution I could see, which isn't a great one, is to buy a very clean, low mileage used car as a replacement--but in that case, this renders your $3500 car with a broken transmission not much more than a $350 car.

    At least once you are employed again, you have a good running car to sell as a down payment for your next vehicle.

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  • pnotarpnotar Posts: 5
    Thanks for the quick response. The sad part of this whole ordeal is that, once I obtain employment, I was planning to look for something "new" (I am a quality used car man...never owned brand new). Now, if I take this plunge, I am feeling like I am committing to the vehicle for another couple of years. Positive is at least I am not making car payments as I try to rebuild my finances.

    Guessing your $350 evaluation is based upon the tax value you would get on donating the car to charity? Wasn't sure what that value was, but, as we have both cited, without the fix, I have the proverbial white elephant.

    Likely going to fix, as it appears to be the lowest cost/best return on investment option, but I don't feel good about it at all. Thanks again!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    yeah, I was thinking charity donation. I just think buying a "new" car is not in the cards for you at this moment, and since this moment is the only moment you can do anything about---well then. Sure, in a few months the situation may indeed turn completely around---probably will--but until then, you need wheels--bottom line there.

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  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    Thanks so much for the information. You are right about throwing parts at a problem due to the codes. I have wasted a good bit of money on two O2 sensors and a knock sensor that were probably working just fine. I live on a tiny island and the mechanics overcharge hours and I don't trust the ones I have come across. However, we do have a Nissan dealership over the bridge I could have do the work. The tech there insists it is the IAC but I am now worried that I blew out the ECU since it's been driven so long without proper diagnosis. I will try this one last ditch effort, and if the car keeps stalling, may have to consider a new one:(

    Thanks again...I will check out the IATN.
  • hossjrhossjr Posts: 3
    My 2001 I30 has had 4 remanufactured alternators supplied by Nissan/Infiniti installed since May and a new starter. After leaving the car sit for 3-4 days it won't start w/o a jump. What else could possibly be wrong here?
  • You could have a parasitic draw, something that is continuing to draw current when the car is off and all the control modules have gone to sleep. This is caused by a faulty component that is shorted out, or possibly a wiring issue where there is a short.

    I would say if you are able to jump the vehicle, and drive it, then find after it sits for several hours you have to jump start it a parasitic draw is very likely. That all assumes the battery is not faulty. You did not mention anything about the battery, but I assume it is passing its tests.

    Good luck.
  • $814 for all that work sounds low. Check this guy out thoroughly before you commit to having the work done. I would recommend you check with the dealer to see what their price is as well. The independent shop is often cheaper than the dealer by not always. It pays to be diligent in your research.

    I would recommend you fix all the leaks as soon as possible. When oil leaks from the engine it often comes in contact with other components, many of which are made of rubber. Hoses, insulation on wiring, bushings, etc. can all be damaged by allowing oil to continually drip on them. There will be collateral damage and additional costs if you do not fix the leaks.

    I once had a client with a VW that refused a $450 valve cover gasket replacement. One year later his car was on a flatbed wrecker with a major coolant leak. The oil had been dripping onto a coolant hose, deteriorating the hose and causing it to blow. This engine was turbo charged and the hose was under the turbo. The original $450 repair that he refused, because he did not see a need to spend the money, became a $1700 repair.

    Fix the leaks and be diligent about maintaining the vehicle and it will be cheaper for you in the long run.
  • I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2001 I30, but the pedal seems a little soft. Everything seems to be working great, just to much pedal travel before stopping starts. Any suggestions?
  • the EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENING TO ME and I don't know how to fix it!!! My brake lights stop working periodically, and when they're not working, I am unable to shift my car out of park. Very frustrating!!! My car almost didn't pass state inspection because of it! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME and let me know what this could be, or if you have found a solution to this problem. It is driving me insane!!!!!!!!! E-mail me thanks so much!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    Yes if the brake light switch is bad it will not send a signal to the gearshift solenoid to unlock the gear shift lever. You could test this by by-passing the brake light switch with a jumper wire just momentarily to see if the lever releases. Also I guess you could have a loose fuse for the brake light switch, or a bad connection at the switch, or the fuse box....or the brake light switch could be hanging loose or not adjusted properly.

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  • I replaced my alternator once. 4 alternators thats crazy. I had a similar problem with my 97 i30 where i needed a jump. I had to replace the compressor. could that be the problem?
  • This happens when the lights are on. When I step on the brake, the right brake light turns off. What could be the problem? Appreciate your assistance.
  • Hey there...I went ahead and replaced the IACV and my car drove beautifully for three weeks. But sadly this past weekend, she started stalling and running rough and lurching again. I was SO bummed out. I believe my previous IACV burned up my ECM circuit board (this only happens in the 1996 model, which is the first year the ODB was introduced...subsequent models have a fail safe that prevents burning up the ECM...oh well). I'm going to have someone pull out the ECM and look at the circuit board. According to the Infiniti dealership (about 2 hours away), if the ECM is damaged, I will be able to see visual damage. If it looks fine (fingers crossed) then I might try the MAF, unless you have another suggestion? You had the same problem as I am experiencing...may I ask what resolved these issues for your infiniti? I am at my wits end...thanks so much! ~Lori
  • its your MAF sensor
  • I have a 96 I30 that I just replaced the engine in with a used engind. It takes 3-4 tries before it will start. When starting, it will backfire. Once it starts it runs fine. All the sensors have been replaced. The mechanic says that it may have to go to the dealer and run some software to relearn the system at start up. Is there anyone that had to go and do this before? Do I have to have the computer reprogrammed? Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.
  • hossjrhossjr Posts: 3
    I leave the car for a week w/o starting it and it's dead.
    Battery and alternator have been replaced and check out fine.
    Any ideas?
  • brig7brig7 Posts: 5
    :sick: Hello
    My problem is that i got this i30t but in the cold weather it takes 10 min for me to warm it up. When i do the car will sometimes will shut down so i need to rev it up from time to time. If i dont do this and just drive off the car when stopping will start shaking and the rpm arrow will bounce around the 0. So every time i stop i need to put on park and rev it up. :confuse:
    If any more info need i will check for it.
    Thank you (if you will help me)
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    I would have your technician (not mechanic) hook the vehicle up to one of their high tech hand held computers, the kind that can read all the sensors even if the check engine light is not on. This will tell them where the problem is. My suspicion is your mass air meter (mass air flow sensor) or your PCV valve. Have the technician confirm this before replacing those parts though, as the MAF sensor isn't a cheap part (although the PCV valve is)
  • I've been reading these posts for a little while and follow most of the recommendations. My i30 '01 it's being acting up with the same problems for more than a year now and almost $3000 spent. O2 sensors changed, fuel injectors cleaned, MAF sensor cleaned, air filter changed. It's been on Brake Plus, on the Infinity dealer, on a local mechanic shop, and everybody knows what it is, but nobody have changed a thing. Love my car, but not the fact on going back to square one on the same problem.
    Any suggestions besides getting rid of it.
  • Here is the deal.........I have a 1998 Infinity I 30 with around 135000 miles on it. I have had a problem starting my car for about a year now.......It refuses to crank smoothly! Its odd, in the summer it takes several attempts to get the vehicle to turn over and in the colder months it seems to start with fewer attempts. Nevertheless, the vehicle never wants to start right up! Over half the times that I do crank it the car just dies and the cycle starts again.......seems as if NOONE can figure out what the problem is.......ANY thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks! :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    When you try to turn it over, is it doing absolutely nothing until you crank it a few more times? Or is it starting okay, but then stalling?
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    I just replaced the mass air flow sensor in my 1996 I-30 and it solved all my problems which included: terrible gas mileage, stalling, black smoke out exhaust, RPMs jumping around and hanging out down below 400, starting the car and having it instantly stall and having to start it over and over again while depressing the gas, etc...Some days it drove great, but over the past 12 months, those bad symptoms increased in frequency. You can get a remanufactured MAF sensor for $240 at O'Reillys but if you buy it new from Infiniti it is over $600. The good news is that this sensor is located right on top of the throttle body, connected to where the air filter goes and it is literally 4 screws and a plug. It's so easy to change, I wouldn't pay a mechanic $60-$90 for an hour's worth of labor, because it literally takes 10 minutes and if you have the right tools, you can do it yourself. Good luck!
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    It was the mass air flow sensor. I put in a re-manufactured one and it has completely solved my problems!
  • This was starting to happen last fall but then cold weather seemed to arrest it. Now hot weather is returning, it is happening almost every time the car is headed up hill, it hesitates and even stalls and won't downshift accurately, and in fact seems to disengage the transmission. When I stop it and turn it off and back on, and accelerate through the gears, it does okay until it needs to downshift again out of overdrive. I am thinking it might be my Mass Air Flow Sensor but don't know. Has anyone had similar issues? Any ideas how I can fix this?
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    I just replaced my mass air flow sensor and it cured ALL of my symptoms including, black smoke out exhaust, stalling when foot is off accerator (like when approaching a stop sign), TERRIBLE gas mileage, RPMs decreasing from 1000 down to 400 and lower and acting like she wants to stall until I pop it into neutral and gas it up, and stuff like that. Do your symptoms seem like that? I have a 1996 I30 with 150k miles. There is also a mass air flow cleaner you could try before replacing it. This part is so easy to get to, since it's right on top of the throttle body and is literally 4 screws and a plug. It will NOT make your check engine light go on, and there will be some days that your car will drive just fine. How long has this been happening? Now, I am not sure about your symptoms when it comes to driving uphill, because I live on a small island off the coast of Georgia and we are pretty FLAT at sea level....
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    Check that, SIX screws and a plug. If you have the right tools, you can totally do this yourself. A new MAF sensor from Infinit is $600 but a remanufactured one from O'Reillys is under $240 and has a $50 core charge you'll get back when you turn in old one. Be careful if you clean it with the MAF cleaner from Auto Zone, because the filament, it is made of platinum and apparently really sensitive.
  • jodimjodim Posts: 1
    I have '99 i30 with 137K miles. Sometimes when I am driving it feels like it will stall and sort of bumps a little. Like it is getting enough gas, not sure what it could be.

    Any ideas
  • lori925lori925 Posts: 12
    do you have black smoke coming out of the exhaust sometimes? Is this problem intermittent or is it happening all the time? When does it feel like stalling? Does it happen when you are approaching a stop sign? Or when you are giving it gas?
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